The last couple of months kind of let me forget how much I love Histoires de Parfums as a perfume brand. Don’t get me wrong here – I’m still totally in love with my bottle of 1725 Casanova. I also liked 1899 Hemingway, but not enough to decide on buying a higher amount of it. Then during Pitti Fragranze I discovered Gerald Ghislain’s newest babies, the Opera Collection which I found rather disappointing (with over-the-top bottles and music boxes). As I was thinking about what to review next I had a though – it’s carnival, I’ll find something totally outgoing. And I found these two.
Histoires de Parfums 1889 Moulin Rouge begins with a true cosmetic accord that is powdery, feminine and oh-so-playful. Very powdery iris brings the boudoir vibe and association of make-up products. To me it smells mostly of lipstick, bright red shade. Plum note which is slightly smoked here gives both fruity and dusty/smoked vibe reminiscent of old cabaret clubs, with red lights and velvet couches. A place where ladies appeared on stage with heavy costumes, dancing can-can or trying to flirt with already half-drunk audience. The night is young and the courtain is still up.
At some point Moulin Rouge develops a lovely warm and spicy facet created with cinnamon which adds the tingling effect and wormwood which adds a little bit more substance. Still the perfume remains playful and cosmetic. Then the floral vibe comes in. Focused mostly on the rose note (introduced as rose tincture) it adds a flirty and girly manner that suits 1889 so well. Lots of musk blend with the silky pink petals for another powdery wave of this fragrance.
Later this Histoires de Parfums scent becomes slightly more juicy thanks to tangerine essence. It adds a lovely, tart element to the composition, making 1889 feel more sweet. With the over-the-top lipstick vibe emanating from Moulin Rouge, this sweet citrus part smells really gourmand and mouth-watering. This perfume smells of fun, feathers, lace and sequins. It’s a celebration of Belle Epoque, a toast to life filled with color, emotions and vivacity. Girls just want to have fun, right?
On the other hand we have Rouge Assassion from Jovoy. This composition opens as well with undeniably cosmetic character but instead of smelling like lipstick, it smells more like face powder, intensively scented with rose. Dominating notes here are iris and ambrette seeds, creating this realistic make up sensation that lasts for a really long time. After around 20 minutes rose enters the composition, making the composition an ultra feminine one.
After a while this exquisite rose powder begins to melt and gains rich and creamy qualities brough to Rouge Assassin with sandalwood note. The accord is milky, rather thick but not overwhelming. When I smell it, it kind of makes me think of transition from face powder to liquid face foundation. The cosmetic vibe is still pretty strong, rice note makes it even stronger. At some point the woody notes gain weight and sandalwood together with cedar start to push the make-up vibe to the side.
After 1,5 hours Jovoy Rouge Assasin starts to smell like a different fragrance. The cosmetic element is still there but it gave up the throne and now balsamic notes rule the composition. There is elemi resin combined with somewhat caramely benzoin and aromatic-creamy tonka bean. Similarly to Histoires de Parfums 1889, this creation also has some gourmand parts. What develops later is a lovely amber accord. Amber, not ambergris, so it smells bright and luminous, sweet-vanillic as well. Once it gets to this stage it doesn’t really change much on my skin. It’s a concoction of rose, face powder, creamy woods and sweet resins.
Out of these two composition I like Moulin Rouge more but Rouge Assassin is a more wearable composition with its woody and resinous nuances. The first one is a true fragrance of the cabaret while the second one could serve more as a trademark of female serial murderer who used to slay unfaithful men when they sneaked out to meet with a lover. Both are ultra feminine, it’s really hard to imagine a men wearing these fragrances. Histoires de Parfums 1889 was developed by Gerald Ghislain in 2010 and is available in 14, 60 and 120ml bottles. Jovoy Rouge Assassin is a 2012 creation from Amelie Bourgeois, available in 50 or 100ml.
[note] middle picture is Lady Gaga and her lipstick gun, still from Judas music video.