Tag Archives: 2012 launch

Show me how you burlesque, Histoires de Parfums 1889 & Jovoy Rouge Assassin

The last couple of months kind of let me forget how much I love Histoires de Parfums as a perfume brand. Don’t get me wrong here – I’m still totally in love with my bottle of 1725 Casanova. I also liked 1899 Hemingway, but not enough to decide on buying a higher amount of it. Then during Pitti Fragranze I discovered Gerald Ghislain’s newest babies, the Opera Collection which I found rather disappointing (with over-the-top bottles and music boxes). As I was thinking about what to review next I had a though – it’s carnival, I’ll find something totally outgoing. And I found these two.

Histoires de Parfums 1889 Moulin Rouge begins with a true cosmetic accord that is powdery, feminine and oh-so-playful. Very powdery iris brings the boudoir vibe and association of make-up products. To me it smells mostly of lipstick, bright red shade. Plum note which is slightly smoked here gives both fruity and dusty/smoked vibe reminiscent of old cabaret clubs, with red lights and velvet couches. A place where ladies appeared on stage with heavy costumes, dancing can-can or trying to flirt with already half-drunk audience. The night is young and the courtain is still up.

At some point Moulin Rouge develops a lovely warm and spicy facet created with cinnamon which adds the tingling effect and wormwood which adds a little bit more substance. Still the perfume remains playful and cosmetic. Then the floral vibe comes in. Focused mostly on the rose note (introduced as rose tincture) it adds a flirty and girly manner that suits 1889 so well. Lots of musk blend with the silky pink petals for another powdery wave of this fragrance.

Later this Histoires de Parfums scent becomes slightly more juicy thanks to tangerine essence. It adds a lovely, tart element to the composition, making 1889 feel more sweet. With the over-the-top lipstick vibe emanating from Moulin Rouge, this sweet citrus part smells really gourmand and mouth-watering. This perfume smells of fun, feathers, lace and sequins. It’s a celebration of Belle Epoque, a toast to life filled with color, emotions and vivacity. Girls just want to have fun, right?

On the other hand we have Rouge Assassion from Jovoy. This composition opens as well with undeniably cosmetic character but instead of smelling like lipstick, it smells more like face powder, intensively scented with rose. Dominating notes here are iris and ambrette seeds, creating this realistic make up sensation that lasts for a really long time. After around 20 minutes rose enters the composition, making the composition an ultra feminine one.

After a while this exquisite rose powder begins to melt and gains rich and creamy qualities brough to Rouge Assassin with sandalwood note. The accord is milky, rather thick but not overwhelming. When I smell it, it kind of makes me think of transition from face powder to liquid face foundation. The cosmetic vibe is still pretty strong, rice note makes it even stronger. At some point the woody notes gain weight and sandalwood together with cedar start to push the make-up vibe to the side.

After 1,5 hours Jovoy Rouge Assasin starts to smell like a different fragrance. The cosmetic element is still there but it gave up the throne and now¬† balsamic notes rule the composition. There is elemi resin combined with somewhat caramely benzoin and aromatic-creamy tonka bean. Similarly to Histoires de Parfums 1889, this creation also has some gourmand parts. What develops later is a lovely amber accord. Amber, not ambergris, so it smells bright and luminous, sweet-vanillic as well. Once it gets to this stage it doesn’t really change much on my skin. It’s a concoction of rose, face powder, creamy woods and sweet resins.

Out of these two composition I like Moulin Rouge more but Rouge Assassin is a more wearable composition with its woody and resinous nuances. The first one is a true fragrance of the cabaret while the second one could serve more as a trademark of female serial murderer who used to slay unfaithful men when they sneaked out to meet with a lover. Both are ultra feminine, it’s really hard to imagine a men wearing these fragrances. Histoires de Parfums 1889 was developed by Gerald Ghislain in 2010 and is available in 14, 60 and 120ml bottles. Jovoy Rouge Assassin is a 2012 creation from Amelie Bourgeois, available in 50 or 100ml.

[note] middle picture is Lady Gaga and her lipstick gun, still from Judas music video.

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It’s in your eyes, Jul et Mad Terrasse a St-Germain

He – a scientist professing in neurosciences and biology. She – a marketing specialist for cosmetics and fragrance industry. One day she was on a business ‘mission’ in Paris while he was casually having lunch at the street cafe. The moment she was passing by that terrace cafe, their eyes met and some immaterial link connected them. Both knew their life would never be the same. This could be a summary of how Madalina Stoica met Julien Blanchard and how they became a couple and marriage. They shared a deep love for beautiful things, especially scents, so they decided to create a perfume brand. She moved from New York to Paris and he quit his scientific career for the best sake of JUL ET MAD, a niche perfume brand born from their combined passion.

Terrasse a St-Germain, a perfume introduced together with Stilettos on Lex and Amour de Palazzo when the brand launched in 2012, serves as an oflactory interpretation of that very moment when Julien met Madalina at the street cafe. Each perfume from Jul et Mad presents a different stage of love between the two people so in fact Terrasse a St-Germain is the 1st story of their relationship. I don’t have any good excuse why I didn’t review it earlier but I do it now. This time there’s no chronological order in my reviews from this perfume maison. Hope you can forgive me.

The composition of Jul et Mad Terrase a St-Germain begins with a very beautiful and unusual patchouli accord. Usually when we think of patchouli, especially in niche offerings, we immediately start to think of the smell of damp earth, dust, rotting leaves in the autumn and generally we expect something darker and heavy thinking about patchouli. In this perfume it’s very toned down and there’s something incredibly elegant about it. It smells like no other patchouli – it’s vibrant, intensive, almost pungent but instead of being dark it’s glowing with the bright light.

Around 20 minutes after application the blend reveals the grapefruit note. Once again – many people claim to have trouble with grapefruit essence, they say that it smells to them like an unpleasant, sweaty body odour. Terrasse a St-Germain is not that at all. The grapefruit is very aromatic here. At first you smell a huge load of yellow rinds and then one moment, around the 45th minute the accord burst with bright juiciness. Amazingly fresh and happy, it has a brisk that adds that extra sparkle in the eye. After some time the scent of grapefruit seamlessly goes to more sophisticated and calm tangerine note. But this fragrance is not a typical citrus composition.

After 1,5 hours the musk accord marks its presence in the structure of the fragrance. At first it’s announced with a decently smelling powdery sensation which after some time becomes less powdery and gains more animalic facets. To me it smells like a sun-kissed skin at the beach. When it glistens with a suntan lotion and a bit of sweat. Even if the dirtiness of the musky tone is distinctive, I don’t find it offensive at all. Later on Terrasse a St-Germain reveals a weak floral stage. There’s some freesia adding some yellow tones (reminiscent of banana to me!) and a bit of rose – it would be more noticeable if there was no lotus. The latter one adds a sheer and watery feeling.

Few hours later the composition shifts presenting a nice rhubarb note. It is not a very common note for perfume and even in life you don’t find it often. I personally accept it mostly in cakes or in a compote. Here in Jul et Mad perfume it adds a nice touch of green with a lovely vibe that is crispy and crunchy. The drydown has a nicely measured dose of sandalwood essence. It smells substantial and airy at the same time, adding a bit more body to the scent. It provides a smooth woody feeling with a light milkiness to it. Since this moment there are no spectacularly big changes in Terrasse a St-Germain composition. It’s very pretty but rather linear from now on.

Terrasse a St-Germain is a composition made for Jul et Mad by perfumer Dorothee Piot. This is a very nice fragrance which suits many occasions, be it a lunch with friends, evening at the cinema. I think this is also a kind of perfume that can be considered as office-friendly since it doesn’t project as a monster and as a whole it is also very pleasing. Now that I know all the scent from Jul et Mad I can say that this particular creations ranks number 3 for me. Terrasse doesn’t beat my love for Aqua Sextius (#1) and Amour de Palazzo (#2). This doesn’t mean that I don’t like it. On the contrary – I like it a lot, just not as much as the mentioned two! This extrait de parfums is available in 5ml splash bottle (Love Dose), 20ml travel spray (Le Compagnon) and 50ml flacon packaged in a beautiful leather coffret box with an additional 7ml Nomad Spray, filled with the perfume and ready to use.

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