Tag Archives: 2013 launch

Silver Radiance, Cloon Keen Frosted Moon

Among all satellites that exist in the cosmic space I think our moon is the most beautiful one. Its silvery light with blue flickers is soothing & calming for the soul. Looking at its round face at night introduces an element of magic and mystery. I wonder if its aura has any influence on our creative abilities since there are so many songs and poems about moon. It’s a popular theme in perfume-naming – I’m quite drawn to the fragrances that use this motif. Therefore it’s natural that I wanted to smell a lunar composition from Cloon Keen Atelier. Ireland & moon are a promising pairing.

Smelling Frosted Moon is an experience comparable to entering an evergreen forest imbued with magical powers, where elves, pixies, dwarves and other mystical beings dwell. It’s like a celtic fairytale became a perfume. At the beginning I smell an aromatic verdancy that reminds me of pine or fir needles. It takes a moment until it loses that coniferous facet and becomes more stem-green. Angelica seeds give this scent an interesting opening that invites you to make another step into its imaginary land of magic. Through the roots of the same ingredient a woody impression emerges.

Woodiness that appears after first couple of minutes is muted and distant in my opinion, as if its scent was only carried by the wind. I perceive it as the scent of bark covered with patches of moss that has an emerald-green color. Carrot seed accord that appears after around 30 minutes provides a twist as because of it Frosted Moon becomes more vegetal and earthy, however without putting an accent on the carotty aspect as in Iris Silver Mist for example. Actually that note kind of reacts with my skin chemistry and transforms into a smell closer to orange or mandarine; frosted.

frosted-moon

When iris finally announces its presence & the name of Frosted Moon finally starts to make sense. More austere at the beginning it warms up from the skin a bit and reveals a voluptuous nature. Firstly it has more earthy character but then it melts down to a delightfully luxurious aroma of iris butter. Its richness and elegance are at top-level yet there’s nothing powerful or persistent. Whole composition of this Cloon Keen fragrance is maintained rather low-key. Which doesn’t change the fact it’s utterly charming. After some period iris becomes more silky – like a fabric, with flowery hints of violets.

Then ambrette joins the composition. This botanical musk has a possibility of introducing musky tones to the scent without reaching for lab aromachemicals that mimic animal musk. Ambrette is soft and cosy like a scarf made of wool and personally I find it rounder and less present than the other ones. Use of galbanum introduces a green snap in the base and is then followed by vetiver. Dryness and grassy impression with hint of coumarin follow the latter one. Everything is finished with small pieces of cedar wood – they add substance and a gentle yet hefty ‘spine’ to Frosted Moon.

Frosted Moon, which was composed for Cloon Keen by perfumer Delphine Thierry is a beautifully crafted scent that has something magical about it. It has a certain level of mystery about it and because it is not a powerhouse fragrance it’s more difficult to predict how the perfume is going to develop, but that’s exactly where its beauty lays. I really enjoy complexity and harmonious character of it. There’s something melancholic about it too. Frosted Moon surely has a faint glow of the moon. The line has a beautiful packaging of bottles (100 ml) having a mirror-like effect.

[note] If you experienced Cloon Keen fragrances before you might know this one as Lune de Givre.

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Silky Touch, Two Magnolias from Grandiflora

Do you remember my post from late May? The one in which I talked about different flowers or fruit that are used in fragrances but for which, in my opinion, there’s still a space for improvement? Among them magnolia was the most important to me. I don’t know that many scents featuring it. I can name a couple from the top of my mind but those I tried can be counted with fingers of just one hand. Two magnolias from Grandiflora are highly recommended if you want to explore the note.

magnolia-sandrine

Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine, composed by Sandrine Videault, happened to be her last fragrance before she suddenly passed away on 3rd of July 2013. Profound burst of citric notes with a very prominent grapefruit accord announces the opening of this scent. Its tart, acidic juiciness is quite mouth-watering but at the same time I detect some tangy bitterness placed in the 2nd plan. Relatively quickly more nuances start to come up from this perfume. Black pepper note becomes detectable within first ten minutes. I find it scratchy and somewhat raspy, with an undeniable dose of spiciness that oscillates rapidly, going deeper into my nose by doing so. What I have no doubt about is that it also has quite a metallic edge to it. This particular facet also seems to draw out a slightly sweaty sensation from grapefruit. After some time Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine gains more substantivity through woody notes – these smell quite dry and rough-surfaced. Somewhere behind I notice pleasant mingling of green notes. During the next couple of hours the notes entwine, beautifully recreating a balmy & lemony aspect of magnolia flowers. Then in drydown the perfume becomes slightly more watery with a marine touch, all resting on top of a cotton-like musky pillow.

magnolia-michel

Michel Roudnitska gifted his own interpretation of magnolia to Saskia Havekes as a tribute to Sandrine’s life and in honour of her memory (she studied perfumery under Edmond Roudnitska). Magnolia Grandiflora Michel has a crisp opening that at the first moment reminds me of a crunchy green apple – it’s fresh, tart and bitter-sweet. A little bit later my impression fades away and is replaced by a mix of citrus notes such as lemon, grapefruit and bergamot. It feels more zingy and juicy, at the same time having a nice smoothness. Heart of this perfume is a wonderful rhapsody of flowers. All of the elements are gentle, graceful and elegant. A little bit of creaminess from ylang-ylang combines with a slightly richer tones of jasmine. That transitions into the smell of rose – pure and delicate as a morning dew. Finally magnolia itself wraps it all together. The smell of it, a marriage of fragile lemony tones, watery-floral nuances and a silky texture of petals make Magnolia Grandiflora Michel the closest and most realistic magnolia fragrance I know up to date. In the drydown vetiver blends with musk, the effect is a grassy/woody base but with softened edges. I didn’t notice patchouli. It’s a very wearable and versatile scent. Can’t imagine someone disliking it.

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Both Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine and Michel are very pretty and at the moment the way they have been interpreter is the closest to the smell of actual magnolia flower in bloom. Both wear effortlessly and are especially enjoyable during spring and summer season – a great alternative to citrus freshness for a hot day. I find Michel Roudnitska’s version to be more to my liking. Both compositions are eau de parfum and now come in 50 ml black glass bottles with white, paper label.

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