Romantic retreat, Nishane Ambra Calabria

Citrus is probably the most obvious and most common perfume choice for the summer. No surprise, since in the hot weather you want something not overwhelming and fresh rather than sticky and heavy. Even among citrus notes there are some that are more famed than others, like lemon from Amalfi or bergamot from Calabria. Recently I stumbled upon an interesting rendition of the latter one done by Nishane. I liked it a lot, therefore decided to share my impressions with you.

Opening of this fragrance named Ambra Calabria has a certain tang to it. the citric & juicy aroma of bergamot is obvious and straightforward. It’s like a splash when a slice of lemon takes a dive into a glass of water. Interestingly bergamot is not really cold here almost like hidden in the shade. Actual shade appears after a few minutes. There’s a green, slightly sappy and resinous smell of galbanum as well as the green, rustling leafage. Described by the brand as green leaves, this note effuses a blend of sunny warmth and verdant aromas that bring to mind the smell of mediterranean grove.

Heart of the composition features a little bit of jasmine. It’s presented in a very light way – it doesn’t carry much weight. Its airy floral tones quite remind me of California Reverie, a perfume from Van Cleef & Arpels. this one and Ambra Calabria share some similarities when it comes to jasmine. Furthermore there is a bunch of coriander that was used in this fragrance. Its spiciness feels reserved and cooler than it usually does, almost as if it was in some sort of chillout mood. But it introduces that characteristic dryness, like a paper. It blends with jasmine nicely. It smells of relax.

The most interesting twist in Nishane Ambra Calabria hides within its drydown. Probably nobody would expect an amber note to be featured in this sort of perfume. Yet its there, soft like a giant pouf at the terrace. It also surrounds the wearer with a gentle warmth – it’s the kind of warmth that naturally emanates from your skin or a delicate sea breeze just before the sunset. Vanilla and musk melt with skin making it smell very appetizing, not to mention that the aspect of this concoction is very sensual. It’s like a seductive invitation to get closer to the person & to cuddle with them.

Ambra Calabria is pretty unusual take on summery citrus, don’t you think? It’s also hard to classify. I looked up at Fragrantica where it is put into aromatic spicy group, while on Parfumo they group it with other fresh-citrusy compositions. No matter how you classify it, this Nishane smells good. As for an extrait it has surprisingly low sillage – you’ll have to smell your wrist close to the nose to recognize it, but it will stay on skin for most of the day. The perfume was developed by perfumer Jorge Lee and it was released in 2014. On the market you can find it in 50 ml bottles.

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Fabrics – scent canvas, Uer Mi Suede & Cashmere

What I truly love about the world of fragrances is the fact that each time you decide to immerse in the sea of scent you might find fascinating new things. Niche perfume market is so varied and full of creativity. Sure – some ideas are great, the others are weird, to use the mildest word here. Perfumes come in different concentrations, shapes and sizes. One time you might be captivated by something extraordinary and with a high-end packaging and design. The other time it’s the simplest thing.

One of those simple things that I fancied during my trip to Florence was Uer Mi Fragrance Collection (Uer Me reads as “wear me”) This Italian niche perfume line which debuted last year decided to go along a new path and decided to create fragrance interpretations of casual fabrics each of us wears on a daily basis. In the collection consisting of 7 fragrances you will find olfactory interpretations of denim, velvet, silk, tweed, latex and the object of this review – Suede and Cashmere. If you ever wondered how these fabrics smell, here’s the answer.

Lets start with NO±Suede. This material is not particularly new in perfume creations but at the same time there are not too many good fragrances with suede there. With leather, yes, but not with suede. This composition opens with a sharp note that instantly brings the vision of tanner shop. It smells kind of chemical and unnatural. But after 5 minutes this bad impression subsides and you can smell soft and fuzzy suede accord combined with the warm spiciness of saffron and dry-fruity aspect of plum note. The latter one smells a little bit sugary as well. The longer you wear Uer Mi Suede the more it grows on my skin. After some time it reveals a quick and refreshing floral tone coming from lily of the valley but in just a blink of an eye it transforms into more substantial guaiac wood note. The drydown smells of incense and labdanum. To me it also smells of black pepper but that’s not mentioned in notes officially. Suede from Uer Mi is warm, cozy and modern. It’s a scent you can wear with a suit or elegant jacket. But not only as it feels casual at the same time. Sillage of this composition is moderate and so is its lasting power which should last for around 6 hours on you.

Then we have AB±Cashmere. This fragrance begins with an unusual combination of osmanthus and olibanum. It smells very refreshing, like a green tea at first but in no time it becomes more mineral, more resinous and balsamic. This is the perfume in which ethereal floral tones entwine with night-time smokiness of oriental resins. Later on Cashmere reveals patchouli note which adds depth and rounds the entire composition. A little addition of jasmine makes this fragrance feel softer and more gentle. The best part happens after 2 hours when ambergris and sandalwood appear on my skin. Together they bring this amazingly soft, cuddly and enveloping sensation that really feels like a huge cashmere sweater. Bergamot adds a bit of zesty vibe to this Uer Mi fragrance as well. It might not be mentioned in official composition but to me Cashmere also has some delicate saffron, vanilla and possibly some iris as its finish feels quite powdery. Comparing this to Suede you could say that first one is more masculine while the second one has a more feminine character. Longevity and sillage or Cashmere are similar to Suede.

Concept of Uer Mi Fragrance Collection is nice and I liked the scents. I don’t really care if they’re mostly made of synthetic ingredients or not (as far as I understood their representative well this collection is a modern take on perfumery with the use of synthetic molecules.) Fragrances in this line are all eau de parfums, coming in very simple 75ml bottles. 10 (or 15ml?) travel sprays are also available. The outer packaging is just a plain gray box. Inside the box each bottle is wrapped with a pouch made of corresponding fabric. Suede is a work of Antoine Lie, Cashmere is from perfumer Jean Jacques. What do you think of this idea for a perfume brand?