As the old saying goes, it is never too late to learn something new. I completely agree with that and I think it’s also very accurate for the perfumeland. With new brands emerging more often and with customer tastes changing faster than ever you can never say you know it all about the industry. Imagine my surprise when thanks to Ari (of Arielle Shoshana) I found out that Vilhelm Parfumerie is a house established in New York by Jan Vilhelm Ahlgren – a guy from Sweden, who now lives in Paris. Fragrances are also made in France. Such multicultural creative environment often results in broader & more open perspective. I’m discovering this new to me brand with their mimosa.
Modest Mimosa unfolds with a brisk neroli note, giving you an impression of stepping right out of the shower. It has that pleasant, clean & flowery feel that has this weird ability to cool you down by a few degrees. This neroli accord quickly adapts to the skin and transforms into much warmer self in just a couple of minutes. When that happens, I actually start to like it even more. Body temperature brings out the more fatty, slightly heavier molecules that contribute to the neroli scent. At the same time it becomes soapy & powdery on my skin. Think of taking a shower with orange blossom soap.
Just a little bit further and I start to notice the shift in this initial neroli mildness. Modest Mimosa becomes slightly greener, evoking plant leaves waving in the wind, right above the ground level. Moment later – a surprise! Orange! No, not a citrus. Orange color of a carrot sneaks into the composition. It’s obvious that it will change the character of the perfume to a one that feels more vegetal. I’m not very much into veggie notes in my fragrances as often an earthy, gardening vibe is introduced along with them. But this carrot is ripe & healthy, washed in a crystal clear water.
Carrot in Vilhelm Parfumerie Modest Mimosa even adds a sensation of freshness when it appears on the skin. That said – I’m glad that carrot didn’t bother me at all here. On the contrary, it has some charm to it. With time the fragrance reveals a crisp dewiness coming from violet flower. This transparent, watery feel, however, gradually brightens and becomes way more powdery. Finally I find myself surrounded by garlands of tiny little flowers that look like yellow pom-poms. They move with the faintest breeze and it’s like a dance in which they scatter their fragrant pollen like a magic dust.
Even though the season for mimosa comes early in the cycle of the year I associate its scent with summer months. I think I just like how happy the combination of watery, powdery and creamy facets of pollen smells like. Hints of wax or silkiness of iris in the background add elegance to it. And that’s exactly what Modest Mimosa is – an elegant perfume. In the drydown the musk tonalties have a slightly salty, mineral feel. To me it’s the smell of the skin that’s still shiny from the sea water. Hint of white leather adds some strength & substantivity and casual mellowness to this optimistic blend.
Any time I’m introduced to a brand that I never tried before I try not to be judgemental but to approach it with an open mind. I remember looking at Vilhelm Parfumerie display at La Rinascente in Milan, in spring 2019 when together with Elena – The Plum Girl we were going to the restaurant at the mall’s top floor before saying goodbye to Esxence and flying back home. The brand is finally available in Poland and I feel captivated by Modest Mimosa. I’m happy that this particular scent is the one that got me acquainted with the brand. The nose behind Modest Mimosa is Jerome Epinette. Modest Mimosa is available in 100 ml, 50 ml flacons, as well as in 18 ml travel-friendly size.