Tag Archives: 2016 launch

Lunar hug, Van Cleef & Arpels Moonlight Patchouli

I’m not an owl type of person. I never spend long hours at night doing some productive things. I would pick a good night sleep over any other night-time activity. But at the same time I find evenings or nights to be a fascinating time. It feels magical when you can observe the stars but most of all I always liked looking at the moon. I like comparing it to a pearl of the night sky. Its glow is soft, soothing. It’s also such a gracious motif for a perfume. I’m a big fan of at least 3 fragrances with moon in their name. Lately I’ve been lusting over new Van Cleef & Arpels release.

Moonlight Patchouli begins in one of the softest and most delicate ways I experienced. Once I spray the perfume on my skin, it immediately melts into it and slowly starts to effuse a gentle fragrant aura. First I am welcomed by a magnificent suede accord. It warms up on the skin to a very pleasant temperature. It’s unbelievably soft and delicate. This suede note is so fluffy that the only good comparison for it is a huge teddy bear. Its plush fur is so cuddly and embracing that you could spend the whole day just hugging it. And I have the same feeling with new Van Cleef & Arpels. It’s this kind of softness that makes me feel cosy & safe. I can really feel its embrace.

Within 15-20 minutes this soft leathery aroma starts to enrich with a precious essence of Bulgarian rose. Its floral nuances are sheer and they entwine with suede, so that rose itself doesn’t make a large manifest of its presence. It’s subdued but actually it’s a big plus of Moonlight Patchouli. It would feel wrong if this perfume had any loud notes. Moving on from leathery rose – the perfume starts to sweeten. Cocoa notes gives it a lovely portion of sweetness that is not as obvious as it sounds. For it doesn’t smell like chocolate. Cocoa in this fragrances is a combination of powdery, gourmand-ish and oily facets that beautifully highlight the elegance of this creation.

moonlight-patchouli

When I noticed this cocoa note I was even reminded a little bit of hot chocolate with a pinch of chilli, because this new addition to Collection Extraordinaire feels so warm. Afterwards a perfume develops a delicate fruity note. These are mostly dried fruit without a hint of smoke. In my opinion a handful of to me it would include dried apricots mostly. The longer I wear Van Cleef & Arpels Moonlight Patchouli the more I notice how it develops a lovely powdery vibe that after some time crystallizes into an iris. It’s a slow process during which this initially blurry note becomes more defined. Afterwards iris becomes more velvety thanks to its gorgeous purple petals.

Few hours later the drydown starts to come in a lazy manner. The base is pleasantly woody, even official notes structure doesn’t mention more. And as it says, woodiness of Moonlight Patchouli is hard to define because it doesn’t simply smell of sandalwood, cedar or other species of wood. At some point also a bit of patchouli appears to provide more structure to the composition and give it more dimension. Actually I think it’s thanks to patchouli that drydown has a nicely highlighted iris – this time more silky and suede – which is just as cuddly as before. Even though the final stage of development arrives within 4-5 hours I wasn’t bored because even the drydown undergoes some changes instead of being monotonous. This perfume put a spell on me. And I let it do it.

I had a chance to try Moonlight Patchouli thanks to a sample that came from Germany together with a perfume I bought to self to celebrate my birthday. It was a love at first sight, love at first sniff. I followed with a full bottle purchase within a week after I tried it. Van Cleef & Arpels together with perfumer Sonia Constant did an amazing job with this new release. I especially love the warmth and embrace this perfume offers to anyone who wears it. It might sound a bit funny to say but overall character of it matches the style of La La Land musical in my opinion. Sensuality of Moonlight Patchouli is addictive and seductive in its innocence. I’m sure you’ll love it too.

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Molecular flower, Aether Rose Alcane

Perfume enthusiasts often highlight how much they love natural ingredients in their fragrance. At the same time many of them express their negative attitude towards synthetic materials. They admit that they loathe, despise them. I don’t understand these people. And not just because I’m a chemist. If I like the perfume I don’t really care which part was harvested from the field and which was harvested in a process of lab synthesis. It’s the final effect that matters to me.

In last years we could observe the appearance of few new conceptual brands that were happy to admit their perfume is entirely made of synthetic ingredients – such as Nomenclature or Aether. And of course there was Escentric Molecules before them. Even if the concept is odd, the perfume is a perfume, is a perfume, is a perfume… and I want to try it. Aether debuted in 2016 as a new brand from Nicolas Chabot who revived Le Galion. I liked those scents, it’s not forbidden.

Among 6 fragrances I liked Rose Alcane the most. In the line each composition is dedicated to one iconic fragrance molecule & as you probably guessed already – Rose Alcane is a tribute to rose oxide. On my skin this perfume is opening with a tart & zesty smell of grapefruit that becomes watered down quite quickly and is followed by a gentle scent of rose. Aroma of rose had a sparkling, bubbly feeling to it and instantly it gave me an impression of smelling some champagne rosé.

rose-alcane

The smell is uplifting, invigorating. It reminded me of Liquides Imaginaires Dom Rosa. After some time my nose was struck by a sudden metallic vibe. It was cold, tingly and surrealistic. As if someone threw an ice-cold cube of metal into your flute of champagne. Very strange feeling but at the same time Rose Alcane kept my attention awake. Metallic vibe subsides just as suddenly as it appeared. After that happened I was left with a dewy smell of flowers and greenery.

Rose continues to go on until the perfume fades to nothing. It is very pale and sheer. Dewy is a suitable word to describe it as it smells watery on my skin. It also blends with the smell of watered grass or some other water plant, like a bamboo or something. Rose Alcane lasts in this form for some time and before it releases its final breath, it smells to me of dewy apples & pears. It’s very gentle and transparent composition, a rather minimalistic one.

This offering from Aether would probably serve well to those of you who are not yet convinced if rose belongs to their perfumed fairytale or not. If someone is a rose fan, Rose Alcane might not be enough. It’s a good candidate for a perfume refreshment in the summer though, since it’s so light & airy. Shame the only size is 50 ml. A travel, pocket-size spray would be useful from time to time. Rose Alcane was composed by 2 perfumers: Amelie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel.

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