Tag Archives: 2016 launch

Molecular flower, Aether Rose Alcane

Perfume enthusiasts often highlight how much they love natural ingredients in their fragrance. At the same time many of them express their negative attitude towards synthetic materials. They admit that they loathe, despise them. I don’t understand these people. And not just because I’m a chemist. If I like the perfume I don’t really care which part was harvested from the field and which was harvested in a process of lab synthesis. It’s the final effect that matters to me.

In last years we could observe the appearance of few new conceptual brands that were happy to admit their perfume is entirely made of synthetic ingredients – such as Nomenclature or Aether. And of course there was Escentric Molecules before them. Even if the concept is odd, the perfume is a perfume, is a perfume, is a perfume… and I want to try it. Aether debuted in 2016 as a new brand from Nicolas Chabot who revived Le Galion. I liked those scents, it’s not forbidden.

Among 6 fragrances I liked Rose Alcane the most. In the line each composition is dedicated to one iconic fragrance molecule & as you probably guessed already – Rose Alcane is a tribute to rose oxide. On my skin this perfume is opening with a tart & zesty smell of grapefruit that becomes watered down quite quickly and is followed by a gentle scent of rose. Aroma of rose had a sparkling, bubbly feeling to it and instantly it gave me an impression of smelling some champagne rosé.

rose-alcane

The smell is uplifting, invigorating. It reminded me of Liquides Imaginaires Dom Rosa. After some time my nose was struck by a sudden metallic vibe. It was cold, tingly and surrealistic. As if someone threw an ice-cold cube of metal into your flute of champagne. Very strange feeling but at the same time Rose Alcane kept my attention awake. Metallic vibe subsides just as suddenly as it appeared. After that happened I was left with a dewy smell of flowers and greenery.

Rose continues to go on until the perfume fades to nothing. It is very pale and sheer. Dewy is a suitable word to describe it as it smells watery on my skin. It also blends with the smell of watered grass or some other water plant, like a bamboo or something. Rose Alcane lasts in this form for some time and before it releases its final breath, it smells to me of dewy apples & pears. It’s very gentle and transparent composition, a rather minimalistic one.

This offering from Aether would probably serve well to those of you who are not yet convinced if rose belongs to their perfumed fairytale or not. If someone is a rose fan, Rose Alcane might not be enough. It’s a good candidate for a perfume refreshment in the summer though, since it’s so light & airy. Shame the only size is 50 ml. A travel, pocket-size spray would be useful from time to time. Rose Alcane was composed by 2 perfumers: Amelie Bourgeois and Anne-Sophie Behaghel.

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Monday Quick Sniffs, part 37

Here I go again with some brief impressions of perfume I tried lately.

nd-42268

Freshly launched by Maison Francis Kurkdjian this february is Aqua Celestia. I have to admit I had very high expectations for it. Not just because I loved Grand Soir but also because the description for this novelty sounds very appealing. It’s a very pretty composition but it’s oh so light that I can’t justify its high cost. Aqua Celestia doesn’t smell of anything on my skin for the first 5 minutes. Then it finally starts to effuse a juicy lime aroma with some green elements to it. Shortly after a refreshing, cold mint accord enters the stage. It gives an aromatic vibe to it. Then there is a beautiful mimosa. It’s yellow, powdery, with a floral-watery aroma. It nicely combines with the fragrance of black currant. The latter one brings a fruity and tart feeling, still a little bit cold. It highly reminds me of spring, of thawing ice and first plants waking up after the winter. In the base I could still smell mimosa, although it was very pale. There were also remaining elements of black currant plus a soft, fluffy musk. New MFK is a great perfume, it really is! But on my skin it’s completely gone within 1 hour. I understand that it’s only EdT concentration but if something retails at a premium quality price, I expect it to last at least 6 hours. I won’t accept a short-lived perfume. Unless it’s a refreshing cologne that is meant to fade away quickly.

sang-bleu

Le Galion introduced Sang Bleu in September 2016. This ultra-masculine fragrance opens with a generous dose of wormwood that provides an aromatic intro of the composition. As it develops, you could smell a blend of zesty bergamot and juicy orange, followed by a bouquet of indolic jasmine. After a while true masculinity of this perfume rises. You could smell a lot of patchouli, spiced up with pink pepper. In addition there is galbanum that provides green scent. Then there is cold eucalyptus, put together with a lot of rosemary. The latter one gives an herbal impression that also veers dangerously towards sweaty, dirty smell. Tarragon smells a bit like hay in this Le Galion fragrance and it also has a sweaty aspect. Cedar is rugged, rough in this blend. It combines with patchouli for a duet that smells very earthly, muddy, dirty. Clary sage as well as other woody, spicy bits only enhance the feeling of dominating masculinity of Sang Bleu. This perfume is full of testosterone & women probably wouldn’t be happy wearing it themselves. But maybe they would be tempted by a man wearing it?

close-up

Close Up is a tenth fragrance from Olfactive Studio, a brand that couples perfume with photography to capture the mood of the place that has been photographed. This new member in the brand’s family starts with a heavy dose of tonka bean that gives an impression of something incredibly creamy, woody and warm spicy at the same time. It smells foody, like a pudding, but made of tonka and woody “granola”. Then a little bit of cherry joins the composition but I don’t get it as fruity at all. It’s there, I can smell it but it suits more to tell that it’s gourmand. Candied cherry is followed by coffee. Normally this note bothers me a lot though in Close Up it’s very soft, as if it was a latte with a lots of milk. This perfume also has a rich tenderness of tobacco and the bright facets of amber, placed on an earthy base of patchouli and musk. There is also a bit of rose. It’s quite a funny perfume, somewhat weird too but the combination smells surprisingly nice. I wouldn’t say that tonka, cherry, tobacco go well together. Here they do.

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