Tag Archives: 2016 launch

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 57

It took me a month to share with you my holiday trip in Austria, Northern Italy and Switzerland. I hope that you enjoyed looking at the photos and hearing about places I visited. Now comes the time to talk about perfume again, though I had a little bit of hesitation to make my break slightly longer.

rolling-in-love

New from Kilian, except of having a name that makes me roll my eyes, is one of the more interesting releases over the last few years, at least for my taste. Rolling in Love opens with a mild, vegetal amber impression created with ambrette. It’s slightly cold and austere at the beginning but then it warms up thanks to the skin and other elements of the composition. Iris joins the scent after less than 5 minutes adding a buttery texture. Orris is a bit chalky, powdery and slightly on a dry side. I also find it to be more woody, slightly incensy even. Almond accord adds a sweet & milky facet that turns nutty and caramelized later. There’s a disturbing burning quality in it and for a moment Rolling in Love smells like bread pudding to my nose. Freesia and tuberose create a flirty floral bouquet of a creamy nature that doesn’t feel diffusive but more like clinging to the skin. Tonka bean absolute gives this new Kilian an oriental vibe due to releasing a spicy and aromatic and creamy cloud that is so specific for this material. In the end the entire scent immerses in sweet vanilla that has a rum booziness in the back. Rolling in Love would have been a gourmand if it wasn’t for the floral part. It’s not bad at all, super pricy though. I like the red-inside bottle but I can live without it.

jcb-heliotrope

Soon after the holiday months were over, Jean-Charles Brosseau introduced Heliotrope to his Fleurs d’Ombre range. The perfume was meant to keep our summer memories alive for a little bit longer, and it does it perfectly. The beginning brings forth a floral aroma that without a doubt is a violet. It’s quite strong for a couple of minutes, combining fresh, ozonic, powdery and verdant facets. When it becomes more sheer it’s time for citrusy tones to come and play. In case of Heliotrope it’s a bitter-sweet game, as firstly we have a sweet & juicy mandarine but secondly there’s a tart & tangy grapefruit to counterpart the first. Mimosa makes the perfume powdery in a dominating part. It’s scent, sweet like a flower pollen from tiny yellow pom-poms creates a bridge to the heart of the composition. Heart is where iris continues the powdery medley but in less sweet way. But in overall feeling this perfume is like a meadow – with every step you can meet something different. There’s also a rose, pink & innocent, a glamorous gardenia and of course heliotrope, powdery yet balsamic and flowery. The drydown of Jean-Charles Brosseau Heliotrope is like a warm hug. Ambery tones wrap around your neck like a scarf while creamy sandalwood and a white musks cocktail create an imaginary blanket that covers your arms. There’s a lot going on in this perfume and few times I thought there was too much at once, a bit of chaos in it but it’s an enjoyable scent in my overall verdict.

lapis-lazuli

Olivier Durbano and his fragrances named and inspired after semi-precious stones have quite a popularity, especially in Europe, and I know that Polish customers love these creations a lot. Lapis Lazuli, a 12th perfume opens with an aromatic pungence of green, slightly acrid and fatty cypress note. After a few minutes it becomes a bit more astringent and medicinal when tea tree accord kicks in. Artemisia keeps everything more grounded and earthy. Addition of clove simultaneously adds to the medicinal feel and also brings its own spiciness as a side pillar. Molecule of rose oxide adds a bit of a distant floral feel right there. Thyme gives Lapis Lazuli a herbal vibe that quickly softenes when immersed in a note described as plant milk. It smells green, sappy. Like a combination of fig milk and other things alike. Spelt and iris give this perfume an unexpected grainy texture that goes powdery after some time. Olivier Durbano fragrance wouldn’t suit his range if it wasn’t heavy on incense and other resins. That’s why you can find a thick elemi note in the base which is surrounded by parched vetiver and cedar wood with a cracked surface. It feels rigid, cold, yet there’s something melancholic there. Something that draws you deep into it. Ambergris and tolu add to the balsamic density of the composition. Musk is a hint of dirty but it gets engulfed in the incense wave.

I’ll be abroad on a business trip for half of this week and on Friday it’s All Saints’ Day & I’ll be visiting family graves. I don’t think I will be able to write another article this week. Next week for sure!

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Parle Moi de Parfum, times two

Parle Moi de Parfum is one of those brands I finally had a chance to discover last year. After loving Orris Tattoo I spent some time to try them and here’s another 2 interesting ones.

chypre-mojo

Chypre Mojo is one of these fragrances that are weird yet interesting at the same time. This perfume starts with a wink of zesty bergamot that quickly reveals its aromatic side. In less than 3 minutes the verdant juiciness is pushed aside & replaced by invigorating scent of freshly grated bergamot peel. This note tingles deep inside my nose but is fleeting and after a couple more minutes there’s a new scent, green and waxy in the way succulent leaves are. Or think of banana or mango leaf to imagine it better. The latter one would actually make perfect sense. Why? You’ll see…

After some time Parle Moi de Parfum Chypre Mojo develops a fruity edge that seems rather unusual and special. It focuses on mango and its multiple facets. At first it’s waxy like leaves and mango skin but after a moment we cut into an actual fruit. At that time the smell of ripe pulp makes a prominent appearance on one’s skin. It’s a mouth-watering flavor – not overly juicy but it has that soft and buttery fragrance and texture that are so typical for mango. Surprisingly Chypre Mojo doesn’t feel tropical at all. Later on the floral tones come to play. Carnation gives this perfume a nice floral-spicy facet. Patchouli adds a hint of earthiness but otherwise provides depth and dimension. Interesting scent indeed.

cedar-woodpecker

Cedar Woodpecker is a composition that feels pleasing from the very beginning and it’s a second scent with iris from this brand if you were looking for one (technically it was first as it launched before Orris Tattoo) – but first things first. The opening presents an electrifying cedrat note that is super sour and refreshing, a true combination of green and yellow citric tones. It’s a fizzy and sparkling note that is slightly more masculine than unisex. It then slowly transitions into cedarwood heart note and it’s a very good one. To me it smells like a freshly cut piece of wood trunk.

It feels solid and there’s something aromatic about cedar as well. There’s a short moment when Cedar Woodpecker smells to me like a luxurious after shaving product but that impression quickly vanishes. Woody aspect of this perfume gradually softens to transition into iris. First it feels dry & parched like a bark but it then becomes more rooty – with a slightly moist soil effect. Then it becomes gorgeous & buttery to finish with a lovely powdery aspect that rounds all the edges this perfume might have. It has a contrast of strong & soft. This composition has a modern vibe but also feels like a nod to vintage perfumery. Plus one can’t escape a feeling it’s a masculine scent in general. Simple but undeniably sexy.

As you can see Chypre Mojo and Cedar Woodpecker are two completely different fragrances but it’s good to have such variety within one brand range. Which one seems closer to your taste?

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