Tag Archives: 2016 launch

Big Tree-Little Shade, The House of Oud Cypress Shade

On the hottest Summer days when temperatures are so high that they’re almost impossible to stand, even a small shaded spot can bring a relief. Over the years of smelling different fragrances I found a couple of them that are just like a bit of shade – they make you feel more at ease when it’s hot. Green Water, Cedrat Enivrant, Le Jardin de Monsieur Li, Nuda Veritas are just a few examples from a longer list. And then there’s Cypress Shade from The House of Oud. I could sample this perfume because the brand just appeared in Poland but does the perfume live up to its promise?

Cypress Shade supposedly starts with a fan of citrus notes like lemon, bergamot & mandarin but to be honest with you – they don’t smell like themselves at all. Juicy, sparkling and full of vitality notes are absent on my skin. There’s only a very faint hint of something sour and acidic before the perfume turns more spicy, when star anise appears. The latter one raises the temperature of the composition and it’s a relatively dry spiciness. It’s a shame that citrus part was impossible to smell for me as I imagine it could’ve been a nice one. The perfume evolves rather quickly in my case.

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Soon after star anise appears Cypress Shade becomes significantly more dusty and green. It’s because of the petitgrain and coriander that it becomes more verdant, sappy and dusted. In fact it smells exceedingly close to the scent profile of a fig leaf – green, milky, dusty and warm. There’s a glimpse of mimosa in this perfume that appears in form of a powdery yellow pollen scent that lasts for a few minutes at maximum. Fresh minty smell was also gone in a flash. The drydown is a combination of woody and grassy notes of cedar, vetiver (with coumarin over it) and oud wood.

Cypress Shade by The House of Oud is one of those perfumes that goes straight into the point. Its development on my skin consumes maybe 30 minutes until the perfume arrives at its fully developed form. Afterwards it remains linear and I can’t detect any changes that would stand out. Cypress Shade had predispositions be an interesting green-spicy scent for warm months but I feel a bit disappointed by it. With this price tag you’d expect something better and longer-lasting (4-5 hours for me). Ingredient quality seems fine but it doesn’t reflect in the perfume. I refuse to pay for a fragrance that doesn’t satisfy me. A one of a kind Easter-egg-like bottle is much less important for me.

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Heavenly glow, Francesca Bianchi Angel’s Dust

There’s something glorious and tough in becoming a perfumer. No matter which one of them you’d ask they would tell you it’s a bumpy yet rewarding process. I repeat it over and over again that I love perfume from Italian creators. It’s only my subjective observation but unlike French perfumers, who like to play safe, perfumers from Italy are more eager to create more ‘weird’ scents that push the boundaries. But that’s just my opinion so I don’t know if Francesca Bianchi would approve it. Previously working in publishing she became curious about alchemy and perfumery, so she started to experiment. Nowadays she offers fully handmade fragrances that are done in her very own way.

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Angel’s Dust is very translucent for the first couple of minutes and then the structure of the perfume is slowly starting to take more ‘physical’ shape. That said, iris appears right away and it’s a very powdery one. It’s a very nicely structured accord that combines different nuances. The powderness is quite dry at first, like talcum but it transforms into more silky feeling that then gradually unveils floral tones. There’s also a vegetal aspect to it – that is when iris ‘abandons’ its powdery form to become more buttery with hints of roots and a little bit of damp earth.

This pale face of iris obtains a little bit of a rosy blush on its cheeks as soon as rose joins the composition. The latter one is quite saturated but definitely not overdone. It almost feels as if you could take a handful of bright red petals, squeeze them in your palm & a few drops of rose oil would drip off your hand – it’s that rich to my nose. Angel’s Dust is a real floral feast as there’s also mimosa note appearing later. Its yellow pom-pom like flowers spread a cheerful scent of a pollen puffs. Every time I smell these flowers beautifully entwine with one another, I want to smile wide.

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1,5 – 2 hours later heart notes of Angel’s Dust start to play around. If this perfume was turned into a piece of music, they would play completely new sounds. You could say that there’s some sort of cut-off. Floral elements are left behind and I start to experience more balsamic notes now. A diffusion of benzoin spreads around the wearer a delicate cloud of balmy, slightly smoky goodness with a hint of caramel flavor. Addition of vanilla enhances the feeling of deliciousness while tolu balsam makes it feel deeper and with more substance but still with brightness that would guide you through the night.

When Angel’s Dust reaches its drydown I can smell a lot of sandalwood, it’s creamy and smooth but with occassional splinters at times. There’s also a whole bunch of musk. The latter one is a combination of dust, some animalic traces and something more clean and fluffy. I very much like this perfume until its drydown, it has something in the base that annoys me. Luckily it then disappears. But I don’t want it to be the reason why you wouldn’t try it, it’s highly possible that you wouldn’t detect that thing at all. Available format is a 30 ml bottle of extrait. On me it lasts around 7 hours.

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