Tag Archives: 2016 launch

Heavenly glow, Francesca Bianchi Angel’s Dust

There’s something glorious and tough in becoming a perfumer. No matter which one of them you’d ask they would tell you it’s a bumpy yet rewarding process. I repeat it over and over again that I love perfume from Italian creators. It’s only my subjective observation but unlike French perfumers, who like to play safe, perfumers from Italy are more eager to create more ‘weird’ scents that push the boundaries. But that’s just my opinion so I don’t know if Francesca Bianchi would approve it. Previously working in publishing she became curious about alchemy and perfumery, so she started to experiment. Nowadays she offers fully handmade fragrances that are done in her very own way.


Angel’s Dust is very translucent for the first couple of minutes and then the structure of the perfume is slowly starting to take more ‘physical’ shape. That said, iris appears right away and it’s a very powdery one. It’s a very nicely structured accord that combines different nuances. The powderness is quite dry at first, like talcum but it transforms into more silky feeling that then gradually unveils floral tones. There’s also a vegetal aspect to it – that is when iris ‘abandons’ its powdery form to become more buttery with hints of roots and a little bit of damp earth.

This pale face of iris obtains a little bit of a rosy blush on its cheeks as soon as rose joins the composition. The latter one is quite saturated but definitely not overdone. It almost feels as if you could take a handful of bright red petals, squeeze them in your palm & a few drops of rose oil would drip off your hand – it’s that rich to my nose. Angel’s Dust is a real floral feast as there’s also mimosa note appearing later. Its yellow pom-pom like flowers spread a cheerful scent of a pollen puffs. Every time I smell these flowers beautifully entwine with one another, I want to smile wide.


1,5 – 2 hours later heart notes of Angel’s Dust start to play around. If this perfume was turned into a piece of music, they would play completely new sounds. You could say that there’s some sort of cut-off. Floral elements are left behind and I start to experience more balsamic notes now. A diffusion of benzoin spreads around the wearer a delicate cloud of balmy, slightly smoky goodness with a hint of caramel flavor. Addition of vanilla enhances the feeling of deliciousness while tolu balsam makes it feel deeper and with more substance but still with brightness that would guide you through the night.

When Angel’s Dust reaches its drydown I can smell a lot of sandalwood, it’s creamy and smooth but with occassional splinters at times. There’s also a whole bunch of musk. The latter one is a combination of dust, some animalic traces and something more clean and fluffy. I very much like this perfume until its drydown, it has something in the base that annoys me. Luckily it then disappears. But I don’t want it to be the reason why you wouldn’t try it, it’s highly possible that you wouldn’t detect that thing at all. Available format is a 30 ml bottle of extrait. On me it lasts around 7 hours.

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Chiquissime, Marc-Antoine Barrois B683

As people with a common passion for fragrance things I think it won’t be an exaggeration to say that our sense of esthetic value is at a relatively high level. Of course perfume – the juice is most important for us but we also pay attention to the bottle & a perfume name. If you stumble upon a perfume named like B683 you might not get interested for you don’t know what it means. Until you learn the story – it’s just a codename. In this case couturier Marc-Antoine Barrois explains that just like Little Prince lived on asteroid B-612, he’d like to live on asteroid B683 – a world full of elegance and refinement. ‘B’ could stand for Barrois while ‘683’ state his birthday – October 6, 1983.

B683 starts with a dashing aroma of black pepper. It’s somehow daring and uplifting in the way that it immediately goes deep inside your nose and provides a lively tingle that will wake you up in an instant. Without noticeable metallic hint the spiciness of pepper is tempered with a generous dose of saffron that introduces more sensual vibe to the blend. Thanks to it the perfume is more mellow and has more smoothness, even though it’s still really spicy. Nutmeg makes the spicy feeling more powdery & dry, while chili gives it a masculine, fiery and bold edge. It’s a gorgeous blast.

After 20 minutes all of the spicy notes weaken and sit on the skin in a more calm manner. Interesting thing happens next – when violet leaf joins in, B683 temporarily becomes more crisp, almost dewy. But that’s a tricky impression because only few minutes later there’s a twist that causes this fragrance to develop a leathery vibe! Interesting thing is that it feels like it’s there but not there. A ghost, a mirage that introduces a whole new facet to the scent. I love how violet leaf caused that to happen. Further into fragrance development there’s a warm, gently mineral amber scent.


The amber accord has something a bit animalic to it and it slowly transitions into a balsamic scent of labdanum (rockrose). It’s not only balmy but has a nice smokiness that later evolves to become a sensual and carnal pleasure. Additionally it feels very elegant and sophisticated, like a well-tailored suit. Musk blends in with the other notes of B683 and marks its presence by providing a little bit of dirty mustiness. In fact it somehow suggests a dusty fur coat that’s been hanging untouched inside a wardrobe for a longer time. I kind of like it for its complexity and non-obviousness.

The drydown of B683 is toned down but has some solidity as well. This virtue comes from a sandalwood chord – it gives substance to the perfume and also makes the fragrance more structured as this woody scent is not fully smooth nor rough. Patchouli deepens this feeling and through its low-level murkiness it introduces a game between shine and shade. Oakmoss makes everything a bit dusty and more woody-dry. Final touch is Ambroxan and its richly resinous aura that fills the air. Whispers of leather mixed with violet leaf can be still noticed in the background.

B683 from Marc-Antoine Barrois is a result of a collaboration between the couturier and perfumer Quentin Bisch of Givaudan. In my opinion the perfume is relatively closer to the manly side of the feminine-masculine scale but my conclusion is that it can suit both equally. B683 definitely isn’t your typical fragrance from a fashion designer. It’s got some edge and personality. Since it’s a spicy & leathery composition it wears really nicely right now, when it’s cold outside and you want your perfume to be warm. Sadly this eau de parfum is available only in 100 ml bottles.

[note] photo via Embassy Niche Perfumery on Instagram


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