Tag Archives: 2016 launch

Vox spiritualis, Sauf Contre Bombarde 32

They say that music soothes the savage breast & there’s something very true about it. Especially that with so many various music kinds it’s so easy to find one that will have a positive effect on your mind. I love jazz & smooth jazz, I could listen to saxophone, piano and trumpet for hours and feel relaxed. Music is also a graceful inspiration for fragrance – there are quite many bottles out there that were created with this muse. A perfume that I want to tell you about is more special. Its creator is fascinated by Gothic and loves church music. Branched from UNUM, Sauf was created.

From the very begininng Contre Bombarde 32 effuses a shape-shifting cedar note. At first cold and unfriendly it becomes warmer in no time. As soon as I smelled it for the first time I couldn’t escape the association that this perfume smells like wooden churches in Zakopane (Polish capital city of Tatra Mountains) – as soon as you enter one of them you can’t miss a specific scent of damp wooden boards soaked in the scent of incense over the years of existence of this place.

That said, cedarwood accord is quite soft in this fragrance. It even doesn’t smell like a chunk of wood but more like a still living forest. I somehow get the undertone that suggests pine cones and green needles to me. Then there is elemi resin that comes from underneath a smoky wood in a smooth, seamless manner. It smells balsamic but in a delicate way again. Perhaps it’s like that because of caramel that joins next and wraps parts of the composition altogether.


Caramel note in Contre Bombarde 32 is relatively not sweet and due to incense maintaining its high presence in the blend it almost feels as if it was more salty than sugary. Juniper berries add an aromatic touch with a glimpse of metallic vibe that is pretty enjoyable. After some time this Sauf offering develops a powdery vibe that lasts until late drydown phase. I would say that the source of this sensation lays somewhere in the structure of sandalwood which is soft and creamy.

In the end we have vanilla joining the composition and once it appears the entire perfume becomes simply divine because it smells to me like some fluffy cuddlepuff. The smell of incense, burning wood, caramel and vanilla – despite being so different separately – they smell absolutely amazing when combined. Contre Bombarde 32 is an amazing option for those who are not sure if they like incense in their fragrance or not. It’s a warm, sensual encens blend to wear on chilly days.

Sauf Contre Bombarde 32, despite being inspired by church organ music, is not that much churchy than other incense fragrances that I’m familiar way. It’s definitely different, more alternative, more off-road but oh so good! Incense fragrance that is cuddly and warm and that doesn’t make me feel like I was sitting in the cathedral is something worth noting and giving a test. It comes in extrait concentration so a little goes a long way. Its 50 ml bottle was designed to remind of pulls in a real church organ. Perfumer for this fragrance (also brand owner) is Filippo Sorcinelli.

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Monday Quick Sniffs, part 36


In September 2016 Oliver & Co. presented two new fragrances, Vaninger being one of them. As you might have guessed from its name, the composition focuses on vanilla and ginger. Right upon spraying it smells of zesty lemon and fruity kumquat but very shortly ginger takes over. It releases an uplifling, fizzy smell that is fresh, citric and spicy at the same time. Spiciness becomes more intense after 20 minutes, becoming more medicated – with a smell similar to ginger tea. Then vanilla joins the composition. Its first steps are very lightweight, powdery. After a while it fully unfolds and becomes more creamy & balsamic. Turmeric adds warmth to the blend and carries on the spicy vibe. Tolu, ambroxan and benzoin make it more sensual and balmy. The finish is powdery with musks, heliotrope and hint of hedione.


Also in September 2016 Rania J. had a new perfume named Cuir Andalou on display. It was originally showed on preview in April but it still needed some changes so it took few extra months to smell the final version. The perfume opens with quite a raunchy leather that packs a powerful punch. It’s a tough, thick leather taken straight from a workshop where it was dyed black. It’s quickly followed by oud that gives it even more nocturnal and strong feeling. Then there is saffron, really dry one. Following are sandalwood and vetiver that introduce rough woody facet to the composition. Cuir Andalou smells very rugged, rough. It takes some time until it softens – that happens when powdery notes of iris and violet start diffusing. There’s also some rose and patchouli that provide warm & spicy sensation. There’s also a bit of castoreum. It’s not the strongest and wildest leather perfume I know but it definitely is tough, associated with horse saddle and strong men.


Another September launch is Arquiste Él – a perfume inspired by Acapulco of 1978 and Armando’s Le Club disco. It opens with a straightforward note of aromatic rosmery and green, slightly spicy laurels. After few minutes the composition is enriched with clary sage and it all blends into a fougere note that is very masculine from the start. Not much later things start to get dirty when Él begins to release animalic notes of civet and castoreum. Only suitable word to describe it is to say it smells sweaty. Honey adds even more wilderness to the blend. Vetiver and geranium are responsible for creating a dry yet aromatic facet but it’s not even close to weakening the wild notes. Additional notes include cinnamon, cardamom and patchouli. The perfume is very musky, very carnal. This perfume screams testosterone and when I smell it I only imagine a tanned, muscular guy, with big, hairy chest and thick facial hair. A typical macho men. This is not a perfume for people who are not self-confident!

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