Tag Archives: 2016 launch

Shade & iridescence, Armani Privé Iris Celadon

I was never very fond of the idea of popular designer brands launching special new collections branded as “exclusive” or “boutique” lines. As if they tried to prove they can go beyond their own mass-market offerings and produce something more unique, less mainstream and from higher quality ingredients (supposedly). Many of those special fragrances are limited to designer’s own salons and that often triggers the feeling that the harder something is to get, the more tempting it is. Armani Privé is one of those exclusive side lines with limited distribution. Even though they are available in Poland in large Douglas salons I haven’t tried a single one of those. Until now.

The perfume in this line that felt interesting enough for me to actually seek for a sample holds a name of Iris Celadon and was launched in 2016. When I saw someone offering a small-ish decant I immediately made an offer and it worked out. A week later I could give it a try & decide if it was worth the effort. On my skin the perfume opens with a tart, slightly dusty bergamot that quickly fades away. When that happens a glimpse of elegant aldehydes appear on top, making the perfume much more glamorous and charming. The aldehydic vibe is fizzy but has some weight to it. It kind of feels like a nod to Chanel No.5 or 1932. However Iris Celadon feels less bright because there is cardamom that smells dusky. Maybe 20 minutes later iris enters the composition. Powdery, almost chalky at first, it smoothly changes into a silky, gently floral self. It feels modern and old-fashioned at the same time.

iris-celadon

Heart of Armani Prive Iris Celadon hides a secret – for there is iris again but in a different form. There’s no possibility to mistake iris concrete for something else. The smell is very rich, buttery with some creamy nuances to it. Sometimes it might feel a bit gooey and in different moments the smell of iris butter entwine with the scent of dried roots with a little bit of earth. After a while the perfume becomes darker. Chocolate note adds a new color to the perfume, making it feel slightly powdery. The smell of cocoa is distinctive but not overpowering. It blends nicely with iris concrete – combined they smell like chocolate ganache. I didn’t detect mate absolute mentioned among notes. In the drydown there is a handful of semi-dirty patchouli with earthy, rooty vibe with a hint of balmy qualities. Musk and ambrette make it softer but they also have a dirty facet. Luckily iris as dominating aroma wraps around it all making it smell really good. Few hours later there’s a suede-like effect.

Iris Celadon by Armani Prive is a lovely perfume after all. It’s true that it’s not innovative or especially creative but I still find it very pleasing. It was created by perfumer Marie Salamagne, has good longevity and moderate sillage. Yet at a price of almost 200 € for a 100 ml bottle I don’t think I’ll be ever tempted to buy it. If you tried Iris Celadon and thought the same way you may be pleased to know that I found this fragrance to be very similar to Moonlight Patchouli by Van Cleef & Arpels which retails at a lower price, so maybe this is some sort of solution. The flacon of Iris Celadon has a simple form, it’s black with a gold name plate. Cap that looks like a stone is made in celadon color (neither blue, green or grey) but it’s apparently made of synthetic resin. Try this perfume if you can.

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Blissful laziness, Diptyque Eau des Sens

Sometimes when I read about new perfume launches I get a feeling as if it was a neverending race of not who makes a better fragrances, but who writes a better ad copy. We’ve all experienced beautifully written press releases yet when it came to testing, the scent failed to deliver. For some less is more & when it says that a perfume will “bring together all the dimensions of bitter orange, from the roots to the top of the tree, including branches, leaves and fruit.” Simple yet tempting. It took me over a year since its release to smell it but now I’m happy I had the occasion to do so. You see, Diptyque and I have a bumpy ride, perhaps because in very early perfumista years someone gave me Philosykos to smell. My experience with it was bad, so I kind of scared away from the brand. Nowadays my mind is more open (plus I love Oud Palao) so I waited for my sample eagerly.

eau-des-sens-diptyque

Turns out that Eau des Sens feels like it was made just for me. Its composition opens with a delightful scent of orange blossom that is somewhat sheer and translucent for the first impression. Generally speaking the whole perfume is more on a delicate side of the intensity spectrum. After few minutes orange blossom becomes more accentuated and reveals its nuances that combine aspects of a white flower and fruit. Soon flowers will be joined by a Seville orange. It’s full of flavor & absolutely mouth-watering. There is a certain amount of bitterness mixing with some juicy sweetness. Then it feels more tart & zesty, smelling like a citrus rind with white albedo. You can’t deny that Eau de Sens has a summer vibe coded in its DNA. At some point I can catch a glimpse of a pale green leafage. It’s very pleasant and it blends harmoniously with the rest of the composition.

Diptyque Eau des Sens among its few notes (its composition isn’t that long) lists juniper berry. It really came to my attention at some point. When bitter orange became more dry juniper surfaced introducing its cold-ish dry spiciness. It’s not screaming but is more hidden. Yet if you pay attention you’ll notice a gin undertone playing around. It’s gentle so you definitely won’t smell as if you spilled gin & tonic all over your shirt. Spiciness coming from angelica hangs around for a few minutes too until it fades away. After a longer time Eau des Sens is like a study of orange – you can really smell all of its parts. There is citrus peel, albedo, juicy orange pulp. Plus a little bit of petitgrain and even some orange tree twigs! It’s minimalistic but not simple at all. Those twigs add a bit of woody character to the drydown. It’s pale and soft because of additional musky note.

One more note listed is patchouli but since I didn’t record anything that would have an earthy, rooty or dirty-woody smell I assume Diptyque decided to use one of those modern fractions of patchouli – that has rather clean odor profile or is almost completely scentless. In fact Eau des Sens in its late drydown feels clean, slightly veering towards soapy aspect. All in all I have to admit that this is heck of an enjoyable perfume. It wears effortlessly and kind of gives me a holiday vibe of laziness. It was composed by perfumer Olivier Pescheux. As for eau de toilette concentration it feels sheer but has unexpectedly good lasting power (especially if you spray more generously). Eau des Sens is available in 50 and 100 ml bottles. If that’s still too much you might want to consider a discovery set (5 or 10 pieces) where you’ll find it as one of 7,5 ml vials. Scented bar soap is also available.

[note] photo borrowed from Diptyque on Instagram (cropped)

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