Tag Archives: 2016 launch

Dog days, Teresa Helbig A Bulldog in the Atelier

As it turns out people in Perfumeland often happen to be animal lovers. Doesn’t really matter if you’re a cat person, a dog person or if you prefer a different, more exotic animal. Love for our pets is all the same & is equally important. Some even get inspired by their little friends. For instance Teresa Helbig, a spanish designer based in Barcelona. In her atelier she always has her bulldog assist her. As press release says it’s ‘a silent yet attentive witness to the atelier life.’

First whiff of A Bulldog in the Atelier brings a gently herbal aroma of Roman chamomile but it’s not just a simple note. It’s quite a complex accord that very quickly becomes caramelized and crunchy at the same time. Kind of like caramel sprinkles used as dessert topping. Maybe a few minutes later I get something nutty from it that reminds me of almond. This almondy aroma is toasty and warm but there’s also some creaminess like a heliotrope in its surroundings. Then it develops a warm spiciness that blends coriander with pepper. It adds a nice accent to this pretty opening.

Top notes mingle on my skin for around 20-30 minutes and then heart notes slowly come up, emerging from the deeper parts of the fragrance. I smell quite a hefty dose of vetiver – it smells woody in a dry manner but geranium note that appears shortly after make it smell more crisp & green, with an herbal rosy backnote to it. It even becomes slightly exotic in my opinion & there’s something there that makes me think of upcoming Christmas. Maybe it’s a nutmeg that is also a part of gingerbread spice mix. A Bulldog in the Atelier has a yummy warmth that suits current season.

teresa-helbig-bulldog

For the next couple of hours the perfume would slightly change on my skin, maintaining its warmth while proportions of different ingredients would change. Some moment I smell more vetiver, the other one it’s more spices. Afterwards this solid and substantive sandalwood base accord appears. Of course it’s woody but it’s somehow undecided if it wants to go in more smooth & creamy direction or the very opposite of it. It’s in between, combining smoothness and dryness. Vanilla adds a noticeable brightness to the blend while benzoin introduces a balmy facet that reflects the light.

Light that hides within Teresa Helbig fragrance scatters like rays on a sequins fabric – elegantly and with grace. The drydown of her A Bulldog in the Atelier has a whole bunch of musk. It appears as a multi-faceted note here as it brings something white & fluffy on one side, then there’s something mineral, almost salty & then again there’s a big part of it that is sensual and carnal. There’s also patchouli listed but I didn’t smell it straight. Actually I have to admit that to some extend this perfume reminds me of Guerlain Shalimar. They share similar tenderness despite being built differently.

All in all I find A Bulldog in the Atelier to be a nice perfume. It’s warmth, mellow character and level of complexity provide lots of changes throughout a daily wearing. Plus it’s very suitable for current season of Winter that is almost here. This perfume for Teresa Helbig was designed by perfumer Shyamala Maisondieu. Its longevity is good while sillage  stays closer to the skin. Concentration of this composition is at eau de parfum level. The only available size is 100 ml. Did any of you had a chance to try this line? Or maybe some of you was familiar with this fashion designer before?

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Dumna elegancja, Puredistance Warszawa

Poland is probably a country with most intense history of all European nations. It’s been through 3 partitions that completely wiped it out of any map for 123 years. It suffered from World War 2. I’m Polish and history of my country is a part of who I am, even if I’m way too young to remember any of these events. Jan Vos came to the capital city of Poland years ago and was fascinated by both city and people – especially women. They were proud and elegant. Tough on the outside yet still very delicate and feminine on the inside. In Polish women Jan Vos saw a muse for a new fragrance.

To my nose Puredistance Warszawa opens quite transparently. There’s an ozonic smell of violet leaf that gradually gains on more fresh crispiness and verdancy. The smell is dewy, watery and it’s becoming more powdery after 10 minutes for that’s when I start to smell violet flower as well. First impression of this perfume is very misleading as it fully transforms in the next few minutes. There’s a little bit of grapefruit that provides some bitterness that leads to more vegetal and resinous green vibe of galbanum. From this point Warszawa becomes much more rich and complex being. It feels like a va va voom of the past.

Note of jasmine is huge in this perfume however it doesn’t overwhelm the nose with its presence. Thing worth mentioning is that it doesn’t smell indolic even in tiniest bit. It’s a lush bouquet of white flowers that could stand in a central place of a grand hall of a hotel or that could belong to a bride. There’s something glamorous about its fragrance. It’s deep and intoxicating in a positive way. After some time broom accord appears in Puredistance Warszawa. It’s an interesting flower as any time I experience it in a perfume, it gives it that specific vibe that is hard to describe, but I’ll try.

When broom arrives at the main scene the whole perfume seems to have its radiance lowered. As if someone decided that it’s too bright and it’s time to dim the lights. I quite like this as a certain mood is brought to the fragrance thanks to that. Like imaginary ball room where everyone hides their face behind a mask, where the lights are dimmed and voices are lowered. It adds some duskiness, some mystery and curiosity. Afterwards comes a moment when Warszawa gains more creamy & powdery facet thanks to iris. It smooth and elegant, like a silk glove on a woman’s delicate hand.

Iris lasts for quite long however its splendor doesn’t stay in the center of attention for long. Vetiver wins with its strength, starting to dissipate woody-smelling molecules with a rooty tone underneath. It partially blends with iris, the latter one makes vetiver less edgy and crude. Once Puredistance Warszawa reaches its drydown, it reveals a prominent patchouli note. It’s a combination of earthy, woody and musty elements. To me personally it gives the impression as if I was smelling oakmoss. There’s also a hint of styrax that provides a gentle sweetness that is tad resinous in style.

Puredistance Warszawa is a charming perfume crafted in an old school way. It feels restrained, somehow aristocratic. In my imagination an ideal ambassador of this perfume would be a +60 woman, mature but who aged with pride and grace, who refuses to throw away her femininity. She wears shoes with a little heel, a fur coat and a red lipstick. For this reason I didn’t feel as a suitable person to wear Warszawa, I’m too young to rock such retro glam beauty. It’s like a perfume homage to the generation of our grandmothers or grand-grandmothers. One spray of it can rewind time. Varsovian women of 60’s or 70’s could smell like this.

Puredistance launched Warszawa in collaboration not only with perfumer Antoine Lie but also with Missala family in Warsaw. For that reason Perfumeria Quality Missala that is a family business was given a full exclusivity for this perfume by Jan Ewoud Vos. Since late 2016 you could purchase it at one of their boutiques in Warsaw. Now, in November 2017 the perfume will be launched worldwide. Puredistance Warszawa is concentrated a 25% and it comes in three sizes: 17,5 ml, 60 ml and 100 ml. It’s adorned with royal green colored details. Longevity and sillage are above average.

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