Tag Archives: 2016 launch

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 37

Here I go again with some brief impressions of perfume I tried lately.


Freshly launched by Maison Francis Kurkdjian this february is Aqua Celestia. I have to admit I had very high expectations for it. Not just because I loved Grand Soir but also because the description for this novelty sounds very appealing. It’s a very pretty composition but it’s oh so light that I can’t justify its high cost. Aqua Celestia doesn’t smell of anything on my skin for the first 5 minutes. Then it finally starts to effuse a juicy lime aroma with some green elements to it. Shortly after a refreshing, cold mint accord enters the stage. It gives an aromatic vibe to it. Then there is a beautiful mimosa. It’s yellow, powdery, with a floral-watery aroma. It nicely combines with the fragrance of black currant. The latter one brings a fruity and tart feeling, still a little bit cold. It highly reminds me of spring, of thawing ice and first plants waking up after the winter. In the base I could still smell mimosa, although it was very pale. There were also remaining elements of black currant plus a soft, fluffy musk. New MFK is a great perfume, it really is! But on my skin it’s completely gone within 1 hour. I understand that it’s only EdT concentration but if something retails at a premium quality price, I expect it to last at least 6 hours. I won’t accept a short-lived perfume. Unless it’s a refreshing cologne that is meant to fade away quickly.


Le Galion introduced Sang Bleu in September 2016. This ultra-masculine fragrance opens with a generous dose of wormwood that provides an aromatic intro of the composition. As it develops, you could smell a blend of zesty bergamot and juicy orange, followed by a bouquet of indolic jasmine. After a while true masculinity of this perfume rises. You could smell a lot of patchouli, spiced up with pink pepper. In addition there is galbanum that provides green scent. Then there is cold eucalyptus, put together with a lot of rosemary. The latter one gives an herbal impression that also veers dangerously towards sweaty, dirty smell. Tarragon smells a bit like hay in this Le Galion fragrance and it also has a sweaty aspect. Cedar is rugged, rough in this blend. It combines with patchouli for a duet that smells very earthly, muddy, dirty. Clary sage as well as other woody, spicy bits only enhance the feeling of dominating masculinity of Sang Bleu. This perfume is full of testosterone & women probably wouldn’t be happy wearing it themselves. But maybe they would be tempted by a man wearing it?


Close Up is a tenth fragrance from Olfactive Studio, a brand that couples perfume with photography to capture the mood of the place that has been photographed. This new member in the brand’s family starts with a heavy dose of tonka bean that gives an impression of something incredibly creamy, woody and warm spicy at the same time. It smells foody, like a pudding, but made of tonka and woody “granola”. Then a little bit of cherry joins the composition but I don’t get it as fruity at all. It’s there, I can smell it but it suits more to tell that it’s gourmand. Candied cherry is followed by coffee. Normally this note bothers me a lot though in Close Up it’s very soft, as if it was a latte with a lots of milk. This perfume also has a rich tenderness of tobacco and the bright facets of amber, placed on an earthy base of patchouli and musk. There is also a bit of rose. It’s quite a funny perfume, somewhat weird too but the combination smells surprisingly nice. I wouldn’t say that tonka, cherry, tobacco go well together. Here they do.

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Out in the wild, Memo Russian Leather

I was always intrigued by Russia, for it’s a country of contrasts. It’s a place where richness clash with poverty, where you can find luxurious objects and old, destroyed things. I was also curious why so many perfume with words such as “russian” or “russe” are either ambers of leathery composition. I have not found the answer yet but who cares, if they smell fabulous. Another one that I found is no exception. It smells incredibly good, especially that it’s a fragrance journey… or a trip diary.

Upon first whiff Memo Russian Leather takes me for an imaginary walk in coniferous forest. Pine tree accord becomes obvious as soon as I apply a single spray on my skin. This very aromatic, uplifting tone is the source of freshness, an icy cold freshness. Just a few minutes later lavender joins the composition and adds herbal touch to the aromatic opening. Not only it warms up the composition so that it doesn’t feel icy cold anymore, it also adds some gently floral tones. Mint  – a crispy and chilly note of this perfume cools down the perfume again. It’s a mysterious forest indeed.

Once we wander deeper into this forest (taiga?), the perfume becomes more embracing. At some point it warms up for good, you leave the icy impressions behind and welcome the warm ones ahead. Memo Russian Leather at this point smells of cedar. But the scent is refreshing, crispy and a bit like a tree sap. The note is described by brand by cedar needles – so let it be as they say. Then tonka bean arrives, adding a lot of creamy, sensual warmth with hints of delicate spiciness and woody tones. Some coriander adds more spicy vibe but its paper-dry.

It takes around 30-40 minutes before I was able to smell leather directly. I mean earlier it was appearing somewhere in the background & assisting other notes that were stronger. Now leather is the accord that starts to dominate. It feels surprisingly cosy. On my skin it has a soft, almost plushy fragrance. It feels rich but at the same time it’s gentle, to not use a word caring. It’s continuously warm and this aspect is additionally highlighted by some spicy aspects. like earlier mentioned coriander, among others. I also find it really seductive in its unique way.


Leather chord lasts on my skin for a really long time, probably 4 hours or so. In the meantime it was rather constant, I was able to smell tonka, woods, spicy elements. Lavender or pine from the opening stage were definitely less present, almost not present. You could compare this stage of Memo Russian Leather to a taiga wanderer who took a break and decided to camp by a fireplace. Then he resumes his trip and enters the forest again. This time it’s winter green scenery. Basil appears for a truly green impression. It has support of clary sage that reintroduce an herbal feeling. This particular note also gives the sweaty effect that brings more masculine vibe to the perfume.

Cypress and fern make you feel as if you were really in the forest, sitting on a fallen tree that is covered with moss. Positive thing is that all these notes smell warm and quite welcoming. I would definitely classify Russian Leather as fougere now. Rosemary along with juniper (this one is not officially mentioned but I think it’s there) introduce a slightly metallic, cold berry vibe. Nutmeg adds a dry, warm facet that makes me think of wooden bark. Addition of guaiac wood adds depth to the composition. Hint of patchouli gives dimension and wraps everything together.

Russian Leather by Memo is a multi-faceted fragrance with many layers and surprising twists. I really enjoyed wearing it and imaginary trip to Russian tundra was an interesting treat. I’m glad the perfume kept me warm in austere cold condition of that region. This perfume is kind of like a fur coat, perhaps that’s why founders decided to put a wolf howling to the moon on the front of Russian Leather flacon. Perfumer behind this composition is Alienor Massenet.

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