Tag Archives: 2017 launch

Memory of friendship, Mona di Orio Dõjima

As life goes on things around us change, people that surround us change and most importantly we change as well. Some changes are hard to live with, but in the end they make us stronger. When Mona di Orio passed away her business partner & friend Jeroen Oude Sogtoen didn’t give up. He didn’t let the legacy of Mona die, it lives on through the perfumes she made and there’s a bit of her soul in every fragrance composed by a different perfumer for this brand. Maybe I don’t have as close relationship with this maison de parfum but I keep in mind to try new things they are offering. One of the two perfumes launched in 2017 smells to me as a memory of an old friend or a diary page.

At first allow me to say that I am not much into fragrances with ‘edible’ notes. I can handle some vanilla, caramel or toffee but to me there’s a distinct difference between gourmand scent and actual foody scent. That’s why I was afraid to try Dõjima until the very end. Lucky me that this fear vanished with the first attempt to trying it on skin. It’s true that it opens with a prominent scent of rice but it doesn’t smell like a rice cooker (I experienced that in other perfume & it was bad). It smells much more like a rice pudding – slow boiled and with bunch of other ingredients to add more flavor.

Apart from the rice accord that feels gently warm on the skin & that has some hidden creaminess that will come forth later, Dõjima hides some spicy elements underneath a top layer. After 5 minutes this impression becomes stronger and at that point the presence of nutmeg is revealed. It combines dry, woody and spicy elements but it also feels fresh as if it was grated only a moment ago. The perfume feels soft and very round from the beginning but becomes even rounder after some time. It develops some familiar smoothness that gives a new dimention to this perfume creation.


Good news to us all – Dõjima has some iris that in my opinion brings a lot of difference. It’s very creamy, with buttery hints and little floral nuances. It blends well with rice accord. Now it really smells like a pudding. There’s some sweetness to it but not a lot. Nexr hour or two show how notes can rotate and entwine with each other as they form various facets. Afterwards there comes a time when this new Mona di Orio scent becomes more powdery. Blend of iris and rice powder is quite loose at first but gains substantivity when sandalwood joins the composition to make it creamier again.

Sandalwood in Dõjima is smooth and more lightweight but its not lacking density and character. There is a term for that and I think it suits here perfectly. It’s a woody pudding. I also catch some whiffs of vanilla although it’s not mentioned by the brand as an official note. As different elements twirl around there’s a brief moment of sunny, radiant amber emanating from this fragrance. As time passes Dõjima becomes more musky. It becomes enveloping like a soft & fluffy blanket. Musk tries to add more volume and fuzziness to it but ambrette makes it smaller and more elegant. In the end there’s a minimal touch of labdanum that feels like a silk veil of sensuality. Like a cherry on top.

Dõjima after my initial fear turned out to be a very positive surprise & I’m glad the turn of events allowed me to like it. It’s definitely a cozy, warm, enveloping fragrance that can do its magic when it’s colder so perhaps it’s more suited for autumn/winter time and not for coming spring. The fragrance was developed for Mona di Orio by Swedish perfumer Fredrik DalmanDõjima has a small projection but it lingers on the skin in a quiet manner for a greater part of the day. It’s concentrated at eau de parfum level and is available in 10 ml travel spray (singular or set of 3) and in 75 ml flacon.

[note] featured photophraphy (cropped) belongs to Roberto Greco. Check out his awesome work!

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Dusty trinket, Jacques Fath L’Orée du Bois

Frigid weather that stayed around for the last week finally decided to move and today it’s supposed to be the first day with a temperature above zero during the day. There was no snow where I live but because of such cold you couldn’t see any sign of upcoming spring awakening. That’s why I decided to look for it among my perfume and found one that represents a transition to a new start. A woody perfume that is warm and that quietly whispers a promise of sun and flowers to your ear. The composition comes from Jacques Fath, a brand that I really like since its revival few years ago.

Initially L’Orée du Bois makes an impression of a fresh and joyful perfume. A blend of bergamot and yellow mandarin gives it a nicely lively kick-off. On my skin it has a slightly green tinge because bergamot is slightly more pronounced here than mandarin. There’s not as much juiciness in the opening but there’s a plenty of zestiness. It smells like just peeled citrus and its slowly drying rind. It’s aromatic in a pleasant way – not too screechy or acidic. There’s even some sweetness to it. As for this kind of impression it remains quiet, perhaps thanks to neroli and its clean, white flower calming properties. That floral nuance also makes the composition smoother and ready to move on.

You could say that neroli was a prelude, an introduction to a floral wave that is about to hit the shore (or our noses, in this case) with its aroma. Just a couple of minutes later L’Orée du Bois literally blooms with hundrets of mimosa pom-poms. These tiny yellow flowers are now all around me & I feel transported to a beautiful garden somewhere in the South of France. In this perfume mimosa is so radiant, like a lot of mini suns that fill your body with a new energy thanks to their yellow-colored, sweet pollen scent. Absolute of orange blossom improves this lovely feeling with a little bit of flowery-citrus combo (with a not to petitgrain). I have to admit that you can get drunk on this fragrance part.


Later on ylang-ylang joins the composition & while mimosa is still very present it gradually becomes more creamy. This creaminess doesn’t smell tropical or sweet – it’s still floral but in a different way. At the point when broom absolute appears, L’Orée du Bois starts to evolve – developing a new olfactory direction. Broom is an interesting shrub because as I have noticed in several other fragrances, it introduces a dusty impression. This very Jacques Fath creation is no exception. Broom is overpowering mimosa now, making the perfume feel slightly aged, decadent & covered with dust. But there’s even more complexity to it as I also get bits of shaved wood and hay when I smell it.

Going down the complex structure of L’Orée du Bois we’ll eventually reach a base of the composition. After broom gave the impression of going to the attic to find a lost trinket now it feels like there were more secrets to discover. Firstly there’s warm but quite dry saffron that is followed by a tingling spiciness of cinnamon bark. You will notice how the perfume thickens and its aroma becomes more dense. Then I get a whiff of golden honey and a hint of cumin. It feels syrupy and quite animalic, carnal – even if it’s only for a brief moment while it lasts. That part quickly disappears covered by a fluffy blanket of cashmeran and soft, sensual musk. Amber and sandalwood give some brightness and a solid frame to the perfume – like a ray of light peeking through an old window.

L’Orée du Bois from Jacques Fath is a well-done fragrance that I’m definitely willing to pay more attention in spring time. Despite having some dim, murky elements I look at it from its bright side – especially mimosa which was gorgeous here. Just like other 3 essentials launched by the brand in 2017 it was done by perfumer Luca Maffei. In case of this fragrance a theme of la joie de vivre was translated into a shabby chic meets avant garde meets modernism oddity. But the result is great. Brand also adds a note that L’Orée du Bois was a wedding dress designed by Jacques Fath for Rita Hayworth. This parfum comes in 50 ml and 100 ml bottles. Silage is moderate and longevity is fine.

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