Tag Archives: 2017 launch

Crystal Clear Pond, Miya Shinma Ruri

There are so many interesting things about Japan. Their landscapes, architecture, religion, traditions, manga & anime and more. Their perfume culture is also quite different than anywhere else. It seems that japanese people highly value their private space but they’re also really considerate of other people. When it comes to perfume they either don’t wear any or wear something very minimalistic and transparent so that they don’t ‘invade’ the privacy of those around. New fragrance from Miya Shinma fits in the idea of a beautiful Japanese perfume that’s barely there.

Ruri opens with a lightweight mint accord that is just as transparent & refreshing as a glass of sparkling water. You can’t say it’s minty until you take the first sip. When you smell it from up close it has some aromatic fizziness and a tad of green tinge that makes the perfume very wearable. After a couple of minutes a quiet whisper of saltiness joins the composition. More crystalline and physical at first it soon becomes more blurry, it melts down to something more immaterial. Aquatic accord which is a foundation of this perfume is rather breezy, serene and tranquil. Like a still surface of the pond.

ruri

Initially it’s very watery but the pale minty smell is continuously present in the background. After a while it evolves – becoming more salty & marine. The smell is pleasant but when delicate note of algae appears, it adds an extra layer of calmness. The scent of seaweed is quite specific. Tad green, tad ozonic. In the drydown Ruri becomes musky. It smells really mineral, so that it makes me think of glass wool. But then it turns into a scent of drying cotton sheets. Clean and with a lovely fluffiness that marries with the sea note in a surprisingly good way. You can’t deny it’s so well done.

Ruri by Miya Shinma represents a Japanese style of perfumery at its best. The perfume is very light, transparent and inoffensive but at the same time it’s not boring and has some presence when you smell your perfumed skin from up close. This fragrance is part of L’Eau de Miya Shinma collection that consists of 5 creations. In old Japan word ruri was used to name a blue color. I can see that, however this perfume must be one of the faintest shades of blue. Notes of Ruri are very balanced, there’s no dominating element. It’s quite meditative and has a zen aura to it.

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Smart Style, Prada L’Homme L’Eau

When it comes to warm months I tend to reach for lighter fragrances. Citruses, light florals, breezy marine scents – I wear each of these. But then when it comes to Prada my love for this fashion brand knows no bounds. I always want to try their new offering, no matter the season. Unfortunately new releases don’t arrive in Poland soon enough, so I’m usually swapping to get a chance to smell those. That’s exactly how I managed to get a decant of L’Homme L’Eau, a release from 2017 which is a great scent for the summer. You can’t go wrong with elegantly powdery iris, can you?

Elegance of L’Homme L’Eau makes an olfactory appearance in a form of a wonderful neroli accord. It has a warmth and tenderness of the sun early in the morning. At the same time it smells slightly of white flowers which are backed by the scent of traditional barber soap. It’s those clean, soapy and powdery facets in the background that formed a signature accord of Prada fragrances over the years. Then there is ginger that lifts up the composition, making it feel lighter, fresher & with a twist of tingling lemony spiciness. This perfume has a vigour and youthful energy. It’s smart, not sporty.

When iris appears on my skin, and that happens after around 20 minutes, the impression it gives is quite masculine. There’s something aromatic, almost fougere – like a fern, before true powdery facets of iris come to the front of Prada L’Homme L’Eau. There’s a change in temperature at this point, because orris note is cool & reserved, as if it tried to say ‘don’t put me together with others, I need more space’ and so it gets its space. The smell of iris spreads around the wearer, taking a bigger chunk of the perfume for itself. It’s a beautifully made bouquet full of different nuances.

prada-homme-leau

It may be true that iris becomes a dominating element in L’Homme L’Eau but it definitely isn’t the only player in this perfume game. Neroli is still present in the composition with its warm, sunny scent. When these two meet, an interesting effect appears. They don’t clash with each other. They simply touch one another and create a contrast. Warm & cool, fresh & powdery. The more time I spend smelling it, the more I see it as a legacy of Prada fragrances and their DNA. It’s definitely a nod towards Amber Pour Homme and Infusion d’Iris. The resemblance is obvious to me.

I can also see the uniqueness of each of these compositions. They were done by the same perfumer hand but not to be the same. After a few hours the drydown is slowly approaching. In it there’s an ambery note – mineral, slightly salty and warm. It has been placed on a solid base of sandalwood and cedar. Their woodiness is manly in a sort of a cologne-like way & there’s also a come back of a barbershop vibe. Combined they become soft & fluffy, like a cashmere sweater. It has a timeless elegance and refined style. A person who’d wear this perfume definitely must have a good taste.

I think it’s really needless to say that Prada L’Homme L’Eau is a great fragrance. It represents more of a casual elegance approach & it’s still very much in line with aesthetics of this fashion label. Despite being creamy-powdery iris scent with woody nuances, L’Homme L’Eau doesn’t feel too dense or cloying even in 30ºC (I tested it in such temperature). Its style still calls for a summery elegance, so a linen shirt or a polo shirt will do. The perfume was created again by Daniela Andrier and is available as EdT in 50, 100 and 150ml bottles adorned with powdery blue safiano leather.

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