Tag Archives: 2017 launch

Tuesday Neroli Showdown

For a very long time I dreamed of smelling niche perfume thinking that Poland wasn’t the country where such brands would like to grow their business. When I finally discovered that I was wrong and that there’s a place for niche here, I started exploring. One of the very first smells that fascinated me was the smell of neroli – the essence of orange flowers water distillation. I found this scent that can be icy, cold, floral or even metallic, very intriguing. I learned a lot since then, my tastes changed but neroli is still my sentiment and I always crave for a good one, especially in the summer.

Nicolai-Neroli-Intense-Visual

In 2018 Patricia de Nicolai initiated what the brand was calling as a ‘year of neroli’. First she created Cap Neroli which I already reviewed. Later in the same year she decided to release one more neroli perfume but this time it was supposed to highlight the intensity of this white flower. Neroli Intense begins with a full spectrum of colors and impressions. At first the bouquet is powerful & heady – indolic almost like jasmine flowers. For a brief moment it’s cold to the point it feels almost metallic. After a few minutes it mellows down, neroli becomes softer, rounder and citrus-fruity notes come to play. Sweet juice of orange, mouth-watering scent of mandarin and a bit of zestiness from rinds of both are especially charming on my skin. Addition of tarragon introduces a delicate contrast that is slightly herbal and hay-like. Heart of Neroli Intense is simply overflowing with floral radiance. Here we have orange blossom which is softer & more floral than neroli. Any time I smell it, I just want to smile. Patricia also worked with pittosporum blossom but I’m not familar with its scent. What I can smell though is a fleshy verdancy of sun-caressed leaves – petitgrain does a great job here by providing some share where you can hide. Drydown of this composition is still very flowery and citrusy (orange-y especially) but there’s now a beeswax accord that makes the base more solid, less airy and diffusive. Patchouli adds depth without having much impact on ‘neroliness’ of Neroli Intense. Musk is used for some sensuality and better staying power. It’s a very well done scent!

flamenco-neroli

L’Orchestre, a brand established in 2017, present an interesting approach of combining music with perfumery and each of their fragrances is interpreted with a unique music piece. Where perfumer – Anne-Sophie Behaghel in this case, imagined neroli, a musician imagined the sounds of flamenco. Flamenco Neroli is the smell of purity and freshness. It has a gentle, clean opening that is relatively soapy. After a couple of minutes it becomes more vibrant thanks to citrus notes of bergamot and bitter orange that give more color and sweet juiciness to the perfume. Ginger which appears a little bit later adds a nice, refreshing fizziness that also reveals a twist – a light lemony spiciness after some time. Heart of Flamenco Neroli is very pretty and has a summer floral vibe to it. If compared side by side it would be pretty similar to Nicolai’s one but latter one would be slightly stronger. Couple of hours later a citrus undertone in this perfume becomes slightly chalky but this serves only as a transition phase that leads us towards woody drydown notes. This part focuses on cedar in two variants – from Virginia and from Atlas. The scent is obviously woody, dry-ish and not as smooth as it has place in Neroli Intense. Woodiness makes it more rough and with uneven surface. When this perfume dries down it becomes more masculine in my opinion. But overally this is a soft, dreamy take on neroli, I would love my bedsheets to smell like that every single night.

Do we have a winner of this small neroli showdown? Probably not because some of you will find Neroli Intense by Nicolai to be more appealing while to a different group it’ll be L’Orchestre Flamenco Neroli. Whatever your choice might be, both of these fragrances are great and worth recommending if you like the note. Were I to chose a winner for myself here I would go with Nicolai as I think it would cut through the summer heat in a nicer way. These 2  are eau de parfum and while Neroli Intense comes in 30, 100 and 250 ml bottles, Flamenco Neroli comes only in 100 ml flacon.

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Beach & Romance, Carner Barcelona Latin Lover

Of course spring has only just sprang but it shouldn’t stop your imagination to do a little fast forward to summer. Envision a hot sand under your feet, gentle sounds of the sea and a floral scent of sunscreen. For many it would be a carefree time and some wouldn’t even say no to a summer fling. Sunny days, bare skin, parties and cocktails. When you think of a latin lover most would probably see a handsome, muscular guy with great tan. What if Latin Lover was a perfume? Here’s the idea of how it could smell like, as imagined by Carner Barcelona. You’ll easily fall for this lover!

Latin Lover begins in a fresh way with a brisk breath of bergamot. It’s more aromatic rind than juicy pulp but it still is an energetic shot that provides a lively opening to the scent. In the background there’s something slightly herbaceous & leafy about this note. After a couple of minutes the perfume becomes significantly warmer and sensual as it develops a floral facet. Ylang-ylang (from Moheli Island, one of Comoro Islands) makes Latin Lover smell incredibly creamy and rich. It’s like condensed milk but with that tropical, heady floral sensation rather than with a gourmand sweetness.

This gorgeous ylang-ylang scent of Latin Lover lingers on my skin for a nice amount of time, its floral tones mingle like reflections of the sun on the surface of the sea. Personally I find this part very tranquil and comforting. It has a lovely suntan lotion vibe but I wish sun care products smelled like this Carner Barcelona fragrance. After some time ylang is not that dominant anymore, making room for more silky-smooth kind of floralties. Slightly watery, slightly waxy and very delicate – magnolia flowers (from China) compliment the undeniable Mediterranean charm Latin Lover spreads so far.

carner-latin

Heart of this composition which is even more floral, has an interesting perception twist to it. On my skin Carner Barcelona Latin Lover evolves into some sort of a special floral jungle. And by jungle I don’t mean a lush green landscape with palm trees or vines. It’s just that these floral notes that appear later feel very steamy – they’re intensely scented but the air that spreads the smell seems very humid. For example jasmine, it has a very summer and bright scent without hint of indolic molecules. Narcissus absolute adds a sweet yellow floral vibe, very sunny and warm one.

The brand lists more floral notes for Latin Lover, such as violet and lily of the valley, but in this “tropical” flower paradise I didn’t notice any watery-green crispiness, powdery notes or fresh white blossoms that would indicate the presence of any of the two. Some hours later the perfume becomes more of a soft oriental. There’s a gooey, balsamic benzoin that underlines the solar radiance of the scent. Patchouli together with white musk brings back the impression of a sunblocker product but this time in a slightly more dirty way, a way of carnal things and seduction. It’s a floral temptation.

Latin Lover from Carner Barcelona is a great fragrance which seems ideal for summer. Its tropical flower bouquet would be a perfect choice if you’re spending your vacation on exploring big cities (Barcelona maybe?) or if you want to take a break from sunbathing and you decide to go on a stroll along a promenade. Latin Lover was introduced in 2017 as a part of Floral Collection and was created by perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux. This eau de parfum has a lovely sillage and great longevity. Latin Lover is available in 50 ml and 100 ml flacons. Are you ready for this summer fling?

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