Tag Archives: 2017 launch

Heart of serenity, La Parfumerie Moderne Belles Rives

While traveling and discovering new places around the world there are many ways of accommodation. You can rent full appartments, stay with local people via Airbnb, use cheap hostels or top class hotels. La Parfumerie Moderne tells stories inspired by luxurious hotels and their history, which is not surprising knowing that Philippe Neirinck, the founder, comes from a family of hoteliers. New launch takes us to Beau Rivage Palace hotel in Lausanne, a place where Albert Cohen wrote Belle du Seigneur. The perfume reflects a silent serenity of the lake of Geneva.

Belles Rives starts with a bergamot essence that is like trying to capture a thunderbolt in a frame of a photograph, it’s so hard to notice. It appears as a zesty flash that is already gone the next time you try to smell it. Subsequently the perfume reveals a magnificent iris accord. The moment bergamot is gone I begin to smell something deliciously buttery. Iris unveils boldly yet gracefully. Texture it provides is very satisfying and it evolves into a multi-dimensional accord. Buttery facet is very rich, you can tell that it’s rich in irone – fragrant molecules responsible for the smell of violet and iris.

This buttered Florentine iris gradually evolves into something even more substantive. It blends with a hint of myrrh. Because of that it becomes more resinous. Splendid thing is that myrrh makes the iris smell even better! It accentuated its best values without making it too heavy or cloying. Plus in the next step there’s also some frankincense that guarantees the balance of notes in Belles Rives in some way. After a while I noticed an apricot-like facet appearing in the 2nd plan of this fragrance. From now on the perfume gets only more and more interesting & my level of attraction rises.

belles-rives

Apricot sensation becomes a tad more floral after 15 minutes, proving that it was actually osmanthus that created such impression. I truly love osmanthus note for the multiple facets it has. Speaking of which, further into Belles Rives development it begins to smell like a suede. When combined with iris it creates a beautiful fuzzy accord that feels elegant & sophisticated, yet not old-fashioned. It feels warm and embracing, like a blanket. Ideal for a gloomy days of autumn or winter. At some point iris loses a bit of its presence so that other notes can be perceived. It evolves beautifully.

One of them is sambac jasmine. White flower aura it introduces is gently and light as a feather. It really feels like a bunch of petals resting on a plush cushion scented with iris and apricoty-suedy osmanthus. It feels glamorous, maybe a little bit retro at this point but I feel totally attracted to Belles Rives. This quality of iris is like a magnet to me. Drydown reveals a hefty dose of cedar from Texas. Its dryness make it feel a little bit more masculine. Vetiver adds a little bit of earthy rootiness. Newest La Parfumerie Moderne also contains Cosmone®, a powdery & musky molecule from Givaudan.

From the words I’ve written above you can easily tell that Belles Rives from La Parfumerie Moderne is a love for me. This perfume was one of my top things that I sampled during Pitti Fragranze. It’s also one of the most wonderful iris fragrances I’ve smelled so far. I definitely want to add it to my collection. Marc-Antoine Corticchiato worked for over 2 years to master this composition – he nailed it perfectly. Made in eau de parfum concentration it lasts throughout the day and has a nice sillage. Belles Rives comes in a simple 100 ml bottle made of dark green glass. You’ll love it! I know I do!

Advertisements
Tagged , , , ,

Decaffeinato, Atelier Cologne Café Tuberosa

Cologne despite being one of the oldest perfume genre that ever existed, it was one of the first I got to enjoy & appreciate since the beginning of my journey in the world of fragrance. Through the lens of what I just said it wouldn’t surprise anyone that Atelier Cologne seemed interesting to me. Through their work they’ve given a new life to cologne, a somehow neglected family these days. Long lasting colognes absolues are their signature but they made a step forward from a safe nest & started blending lively citrus accords with ingredients that are far from being an obvious match.

Iris, immortelle, leather, rose, vanilla, sandalwood or incense don’t feel like something that would go well with a blend of bergamot, lemon or orange. Yet Atelier Cologne combined them together and did it so well that all I could do is to be impressed. I’ve fallen in love with many of them! This season Sylvie Ganter & Christophe Cervasel introduce a new member to the family of colognes absolues. Latest creation is named Cafe Tuberosa and as you can guess, it’s supposed to be centered around a coffee note. But is it? Knowing my dislike of coffee in perfume I was a bit sceptical at first.

Upon putting a solid spray of Cafe Tuberosa on my wrist I quickly realized that this isn’t a coffee scent in the full meaning. On my skin it begins with a rich & dense smell of chocolate. It’s delightfully mouth-watering while also being slightly powdery. The perfume features cacao absolute from Ivory Coast, which gives it that deep dark aroma. In the background I get delicate hints of spiciness. Cardamom introduces this vibe but simultaneously it doesn’t really warm up the fragrance. When it sits on skin for a few more minutes it becomes softer and spicy tone go up a little bit.

cafe-tuberosa

If you were hoping for this perfume to become smoother, you might be disappointed. There’s no milkiness in Cafe Tuberosa that would tame the richness of chocolate. It’s a dark, bitter chocolate, 90% of cacao, a connoiseur treat that just couldn’t be defiled with milk. At some moment, after maybe 40 minutes I noticed that chocolate accord starts to be more like coffee. A little bit longer & I smell espresso note. It’s rich, bitter and aromatic. And still no drop of milk to turn it into a flat white. If you’re a coffee drinker or a huge dark chocolate devotee I think it’ll be a 7th heaven for you.

Tuberose from India, which is also a key element of Atelier Cologne Cafe Tuberosa (since it’s a part of the name) appears much later and it not that much present as I thought it would be. I do get a white flowers vibe but it seems quite muted & distant. It doesn’t have any indolic, intoxicating vibe. Actually on my skin it feels as if it was sitting under a layer of powdered cocoa. Because of that it feels more masculine to me, which is quite funny. I didn’t get any rose elements sadly (and the perfume has Damascus rose absolute!). There is also a faint presence of vanilla after a few hours.

Cafe Tuberosa easily lasts all day with a moderate sillage. My hunch is that it will be one of the most polarizing fragrances in Atelier Cologne range. You’ll either love it or hate it. Personally I consider it more of a chocolate/cocoa scent than a coffee one, but I’ve seen opinions of other who say they get a huge blast of espresso from it. Well, I’m glad I don’t! I was happy I tried it but it will rank far from my favorite 3 colognes absolues. This one is perfumed at 18% and it comes in 7.5, 30, 100, 200 ml sizes. The perfumer who worked on this new fragrance composition is Jerome Epinette.

Tagged , , ,