Tag Archives: 2017 launch

Unicorn wish, Jul et Mad Mon Seul Désir

In a world where everyone seems to copy everyone (in more or less sophisticated way) and everything comes down to ‘who did it first’ so that others can streamline their ideas towards this one specific concept, being original & creative has an extra value. There are many beautiful, poetic ways to describe a thing that is one of a kind. I especially like descriptions such as white crow or a unicorn. This latter one, a mythical creature leads us to a Middle Age tapestry from unknown artist, titled ‘The Lady and The Unicorn’. Julien and Madalina Blanchard were mesmerized by its beauty & elegance. They also noticed a writing on the tent, saying ‘mon seul desir’ – which became a fragrance name.

Mon Seul Desir has a surprisingly fresh opening that in its fruitiness especially accentuates citrusy tones of mandarin. At the beginning it smells very juicy, sweet, tart and absolutely mouth-watering. But in a wink of an eye the perfume starts to evolve. At first the mandarin accord becomes more sweet, turning into a candied fruit that is still very yummy. However after a couple more minutes it becomes more dusty. This dustiness starts to dominate until it becomes strong enough to realize that it’s a smell of nutmeg. It’s somehow dry & I usually perceive it that way – it’s kind of like a parchment.

Dry spiciness doesn’t last for long because 10 minutes later the character of the spicy vibe transforms from dry to more tingly, sparkly sensation with a gentle metallic vibe. It’s a pink pepper note that introduces this feeling to Mon Seul Desir. This material is quite popular among perfumers these days. Spicy flavor is an important part of new fragrance from Jul et Mad, that’s why nutmeg and pepper are not the only ones present in the formula. After a while coriander arrives providing a fresher take on spice notes. To my nose it’s also a little come back to a more dry phase.

mon-seul-desir

Spicy notes mix and entwine so that at some point it becomes difficult to separate one from another. They also tone down gradually – when they become more quiet it is the right time for osmanthus to shine. As an interesting fact I’ll mention that it smells quite unusual. There is an apricot-flavored tea aroma with some floralties underneath but normally it should smell quite fresh, luminous, but no… it smells more dark & dubious. It’s because of oud note that osmanthus’s radiance went down. There’s not much of it in Mon Seul Desir. Enough to introduce some changes but not to annoy the wearer.

After some time we’re back into the light! The oud is gone, the spiciness is very faint. In the drydown there’s a lot of bezoin. It smells very rich, balsamic & smooth. There’s some balmy creaminess to it that makes Mon Seul Desir smell very luxurious. Amber that smells resinous, slightly mineral and sensual is another source of radiance and luminosity. Leathery notes are quite tenacious, adding beautiful richness and substantivity to the composition. I like the complexity of this perfume and how it changes over time. Addition of gaiac wood adds some solidity and it’s blended with musk for a carnal dirtiness that has some animalic qualities to it as well. It awakens your wildest desires.

I’m a big fan of Jul et Mad as a brand, not only because Julien and Madalina are great people but more importantly because fragrances they create are of great quality & uniqueness. I have to admit that when I tried Mon Seul Desir first time in April, we didn’t click then but when I revisited my sample couple of weeks ago (when it started getting cold) and I thought it was phenomenal & people kept noticing a lovely scented trail behind me. Perfumer Stephanie Bakouche composed a beautiful perfume: rich and complex, that blooms beautifully on your skin. Its enveloping sensuality suits more occassions than just a cuddly evening with your partner. Longevity and sillage of this extrait de parfum are beyond amazing. It’s available in 50 ml bottle (simple box or luxury coffret) or 5 ml mini.

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For the fame, Nomenclature Holy_wood

1970s, California, awakening of New Age, the dawn of a new era in cinematography. Thus are the inspirations standing behind latest fragrance from Nomenclature that will launch in first half of December. It’s supposed to be edgy and luminous at the same time. I love how a perfumer friend once said that synthetics are like bridges that connect different elements of a fragrance, tie them together and turn into one whole thing. But how does it work if a perfume is fully made of lab-derived ingredients? I liked some of their previous scents like Shi_so, so I Wonder if I’ll like this one too…

Rose is the first thing I can smell once Holy_wood is on my skin. It smells very weird, very specific – I get the impression of something plush & soft but at the same time there is a dusty facet to it. Not even 10 minutes pass and petals of this ‘pseudo rose’ start to gain a layer of lustre. Once pink pepper joins the composition it feels as if a flower took a dive in liquid metal. Floral petals become metallic and spicy because of that. There’s a tingly sensation around it. This vibe keeps going for some time and it loses power little by little. Synthetic aroma material that is a core of this perfume is Clearwood. This molecule arrives after around 30 minutes & unfolds a wide spectrum of tones.

holy-wood

One time Clearwood reveals a rosy dust facet, the other time it’s closer to patchouli. In fact this Firmenich material is a modern patchouli fraction & that’s what I mostly get from Holy_wood in its heart. I smell earth, roots & moist blended with hints of rose from before. There is also that picture of mist or fog to the structure of this fragrance. My imagination sees it too. Interestingly there’s more transparency rather than dirtiness in Holy_wood. If you give it more time you’ll notice a sandalwood accord in a more dry, rugged version. There’s also some fuzziness of suede that goes really well with other notes. Bulgarian rose and jasmine sambac add little floral hints that blend with earthiness.

I like the ideas and the way of thinking that Nomenclature founders utilize in creating their fragrances. However in case of Holy_wood it’s hard for me to think about it as a perfume. In my opinion this one is more of a conceptual project – something to satisfy your curiosity, to discover how a modern molecule smells like but I wouldn’t necessarily wear it on a regular basis. Maybe you’ll think differently. Positive thing is that brand diversified their packaging, adding 10 ml travel spray as well as a 50 ml bottle to the portfolio. Frank Voelkl is a perfumer behind this fragrance.

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