Tag Archives: 2017 launch

Taste of Rainbow, Our Modern Lives – 7 Mini Reviews

I would expect that perfumer Sarah McCartney probably needs no introduction as most of you surely are familiar with a brand of 4160 Tuesdays. I know I haven’t spent much time writing about these fragrances but I find this whole line very British – mostly thanks to playful, quirky names. It’s a perfumery with touch of English humor. Last year Sarah created a new project: Our Modern Lives – a response to customers questions about natural scents & scents without allergens.

Yellow is a straight-forward citrus fragrance. It opens with a zesty & juicy lemon mixed with clementine and sweet orange that add a touch of sweetness to a more sour beginning. Additionally blood orange and yellow mandarin introduce more juiciness and a hint of something sugary in the back. After a while the perfume changes and I start to smell a coffee note – it’s got some bitterness and a little bit of acridity that I typically associate with coffee. Cardamom and fennel add a spicy & crunchy hint to it. Later on narcissus adds some floral creaminess to make whole thing smoother.

Orange is another citrusy composition in the range but is quite different from the first one. In here things start with a pleasant neroli which is citric, white-floral smelling note with some sharpness as well. After a couple of minutes it gets more honeyed and woody because of the honeybush CO2. Vanilla and cocoa bring a gourmand edge to this fragrance but not too much sweetness. Peach tones its down with a fruity and fresh smell of own flesh, it’s kind of lactonic too. Pelargonium adds the green-colored element with a crunchy texture. Cedar gives the perfume its woody, solid base.

Red starts with a rich rose accord that feels quite glamorous in the moment of applying. Soon a raspberry note arrives to add a fruity sweetness that goes well with the rose. To me it smells like a fruit but in the notes it says it’s a raspberry leaf. After some time I catch a whiff of hay, a coumarin smell goes deep inside my nose. Oak and hazelnut extracts add a mellow woody vibe to the scent that has a nutty, edible flavor. Pink pepper introduces an element of fizziness and leads to the olfactive effect that reminds me of how red wine smells. It’s fruity, floral and with some tannins.

our-modern-lives

Indigo is a perfume that starts with a punch. Right from the start you can smell a cognac accord – alcoholic, bold and with hints of wooden barrels it’s been maturing in. Then I immediately get a mentholated smokiness or labdanum. It’s dark, kind of gooey & dense. When it dissipates a bit the fragrance profile changes more into a black tea one, it’s got tartness and some flavor coming from tea tannins. If osmanthus or jasmine are there, I cannot really smell them, because I smell cedarwood and rum, with its sugar cane sweetness. This perfume sure is a blasting experience.

Aquamarine is the most sheer and delicate in this line and it also smells very pretty. Grapefruit tang opens this fragrance and a rosemary note quickly surfaces, adding a delightful touch of aromatic verdancy that immediately reminds me of Eau Bord de L’Eau from L’Artisan Parfumeur. Olive extract provides an interesting Mediterranean twist – the smell is green, dusty, oily and vegetal at once. A bit of jasmine gives Aquamarine a sheer floral vibe while a touch of lavender turns this floral impression into more herbal and fougere one. It’s a dreamy and easy to wear scent for boys and girls.

Green starts with a distinctive verdant take on jasmine that smells like tree sap, fresh-cut flower stems, cut grass and finally like a more indolic version of jasmine itself. There’s also a tea note that blends in, creating the effect of a floral tea infusion. Watery and fresh aspect of cucumber is another prominent element of Green. Mandarin or bergamot should be adding some zestiness but I don’t get much from either of them. This particular creation features bergamot mint, which as Sarah explained, is a mint of a more bergamot-like scent. Perfume also features spinach but I wouldn’t focus on that.

Blue is an incense fragrance with inhalatory properties. The meditative, calm smokiness gradually transitions into the peaceful aroma of 2 types of lavender, for a very relaxing concoction. There’s something minty, eucalyptus-like about it in the background and as vetiver kicks in later the scent becomes more woody-grassy but still with that strong element of frankincense. Hyacinth brings some floral tones of more earthy, damp kind that correspond with patchouli that smells quite similar. Even though there are no directly spicy notes in Blue, it does feel spicy, and woody too.

All 7 of these compositions are natural fragrances (with allergens) and therefore their longevity is limited to 3-4 hours on my skin. There are also 2 synthetic, allergen-free ‘primers’ – α and β. All of Our Modern Lives eau fraiche can be worn separately or combined with one another. At 4160 Tuesdays website one can also read that a 10 ml roll-on and 50 ml bottle are in eau de parfum concentration while 100 ml is an eau fraiche that can also be used as room fragrance.

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Crystal Clear Pond, Miya Shinma Ruri

There are so many interesting things about Japan. Their landscapes, architecture, religion, traditions, manga & anime and more. Their perfume culture is also quite different than anywhere else. It seems that japanese people highly value their private space but they’re also really considerate of other people. When it comes to perfume they either don’t wear any or wear something very minimalistic and transparent so that they don’t ‘invade’ the privacy of those around. New fragrance from Miya Shinma fits in the idea of a beautiful Japanese perfume that’s barely there.

Ruri opens with a lightweight mint accord that is just as transparent & refreshing as a glass of sparkling water. You can’t say it’s minty until you take the first sip. When you smell it from up close it has some aromatic fizziness and a tad of green tinge that makes the perfume very wearable. After a couple of minutes a quiet whisper of saltiness joins the composition. More crystalline and physical at first it soon becomes more blurry, it melts down to something more immaterial. Aquatic accord which is a foundation of this perfume is rather breezy, serene and tranquil. Like a still surface of the pond.

ruri

Initially it’s very watery but the pale minty smell is continuously present in the background. After a while it evolves – becoming more salty & marine. The smell is pleasant but when delicate note of algae appears, it adds an extra layer of calmness. The scent of seaweed is quite specific. Tad green, tad ozonic. In the drydown Ruri becomes musky. It smells really mineral, so that it makes me think of glass wool. But then it turns into a scent of drying cotton sheets. Clean and with a lovely fluffiness that marries with the sea note in a surprisingly good way. You can’t deny it’s so well done.

Ruri by Miya Shinma represents a Japanese style of perfumery at its best. The perfume is very light, transparent and inoffensive but at the same time it’s not boring and has some presence when you smell your perfumed skin from up close. This fragrance is part of L’Eau de Miya Shinma collection that consists of 5 creations. In old Japan word ruri was used to name a blue color. I can see that, however this perfume must be one of the faintest shades of blue. Notes of Ruri are very balanced, there’s no dominating element. It’s quite meditative and has a zen aura to it.

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