Tag Archives: 2018 launch

Falling Leaves, Two from Jacques Fath

While some parts of Poland suffer from extensive snowfalls, frigid weather and problems they can cause on the road and in the city, here where I live we didn’t get a single snowflake. I’m not sure if it’s good or bad but I wish it was a bit white – it’s Winter after all. When I look outside the window it looks more like gloomy Autumn – heavy clouds hang low in the sky, it rains & everything looks grey and dull. This kind of weather brough me to finally trying a 3rd volume of Fath Essentials by Jacques Fath. There are 4 new scents. They all fit an Autumn mood in my mind.

Le Loden immediately opens with a generous dose of rooty vetiver. It has an aromatic feeling to it, slightly earthy but not very dirty with the soil. Effervescent spiciness of fresh ginger make vetiver stand out and truly shine in this fragrance. A hint of mandarin makes the whole blend softer and a little juicy with a certain tang. Pink pepper essence introduces mild spiciness that vibrates in a pleasant way and adds an extra facet to the aromatic impression. Further into its development Le Loden becomes green and crispy thanks to a geranium note used by a perfumer.

loden

After a while the perfume becomes kind of raspy, prickly. The feeling I get is still green but the shade has darkened. It could be a raspberry leaf, a new material that became quite trendy in 2018. I haven’t smelled its pure form so don’t know its exact characteristics. Juniper berry add a delicate metallic sensation of gin & tonic. Drydown is a little floral and creamy due to presence of ylang-ylang but it quickly moves to the background when curly, brownish leaves of tobacco appear. They spread their characteristic aroma – slightly smoky, stale, enveloping. Together with patchouli and more vetiver Le Londen turns woody, darker & gradually fades away in that form.

Tempete d’Autumne is like a cold-fighting recipe on a chilly day. This composition opens with mouth-watering juices of orange and mandarin that evoke the smell of Christmas preparations. When cinnamon joins the composition the character of this fragrance becomes even more festive. It smells delicious like an orange decorated with studs made of cloves. After a while this new Jacques Fath offering becomes very warm and milky. The longer it sits on the skin the more complex and intriguing it becomes. To me the milky phase smells like a home-made remedy a mom would make.

tempete-automne

Lactonic tones of milk entwine with sugary spiciness of cinnamon. This drink, which is additionally infused with sensually warm tonka, feels also slightly aromatic and has a smooth character. It also creates the impression of smelling something honeyed, sweet. After a few hours I could smell a bit of coriander combined with fresh & herbaceous lavender tones. The very drydown is more substantive and full-bodied – it has a pleasant leather accord to make Tempete d’Automne more dense and a creamy, polished sandalwood to finish the fragrance with sensual, hugging feeling. The scent lingers nicely on your skin. Additional notes of this spicy-balmy perfume include ylang and white flowers.

All in all a third installment of Fath Essentials is a pretty solid quartet of fragrances. They are not my favorites from Jacques Fath as I think I liked the very first collection the most plus Rosso Epicureo from the second wave. Still I think that they are worth a try, especially if you’re looking for something green, woody or spicy. In my opinion this particular collection evokes Autumn spirit in a nice way – therefore I think they are best to wear in colder months. Le Loden with slightly green juice was composed by Luca Maffei while brownish juice of Tempete d’Automne is a work of Cecile Zarokian.

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Colors of the Wind, Memo Morrocan Leather

I have never been to Morocco but it’s definitely one of the countries from my to-visit list. Actually my parents went there for holidays this year & they absolutely loved it. Morocco is also one of those places that are relatively close to most European countries and that serves as a ‘gate’ to a whole new world. Different culture, cuisine, architecture. Not that I am a connoisseur of the latter but even I was familiar with traditional moroccan tiles, mosaics and arabesques. Latest addition to the Cuirs Nomades collection from Memo Paris explores Morocco vivid colors & intricate patterns.

Experiencing Morrocan Leather for the first time is like running head-on towards a wall of galbanum & there’s no way it would break once you hit it. Green molecules are absolutely overwhelming to the point of inducing some ofactive dizziness. I would describe this smell as sappy, heady and narcotic. On one hand it makes me think of snapped twigs only to evoke green vines of a tropical forest on the other hand. There’s also something humid to the galbanum note and the way it’s been presented. It takes some time but the verdancy finally subsides (not completely), giving way to a note of ginger.

Appearance of a new olfactive stimulus offers a new angle to look at this fragrance from a different perspective. Ginger in Morrocan Leather isn’t as lemony as it could but it still has its usual effervescence that brings more life to this perfume. At the same time it’s worth mentioning that to my nose it’s a bit dry & due to that its spiciness feels kind of prickly, if I may say so. As a back note we have a hint of tangy mandarin and some orange blossom. The latter one smells as if its fresh aspect was abandoned and only heavier – more oily and saturated molecules made it into the bottle.

Overall feeling of spiciness lasts and lasts, changing its shape several times yet still maintaining an equilibrium of green galbanum and tingling spices. Heart of Memo Moroccan Leather steps in after 2-3 hours. It’s easy to notice because the perfume moves away from the verdant in its large part in order to let the flower fully bloom. Ylang-ylang takes the lead, effusing the solar smell reminiscent of jasmine but which is definitely more creamy & lactonic, evoking a tropical paradise through its warmth and sensual aura. Beforehand the perfume felt close, hermetic; now it’s opening up.

moroccan-leather-memo

Coming up next we have my favorite part of Morrocan Leather – the iris. Present in the composition in an exquisite form of a butter, it elevates the scent, giving it a new quality. Through its buttery facets the perfume feels as if it was melting on your skin, hugging it with the most embracing, luxurious fragrance. I can detect elements of earthy and rooty iris goodness entwined with silky floral nuances and a hint of chocolate-y sweetness. And all together they smell balsamic on skin. As hours pass a powdery impression appears on skin and leads the way towards the accords of the base.

Viscous like an ointment, cypress revives a green impression that links top and base of Moroccan Leather. Leather itself is somewhere in between raw and untreated & pret-a-porter. It has some dusty, powdery fuziness but also a sulphuric vibe of a workshop. To me it smells like inside of a new leather bag. Styrax together with ambrox react on skin giving off a warm, balsamic and almost incensy cloud. Vetiver is like a seam that holds everything together while musk – dusty, decadent and slightly animalic results in a sultry, seductive waft. There’s also tonka for that aromatic volume.

While preparing a review of Memo Moroccan Leather I realized that it reminds me of another perfume from the same brand, namely Italian Leather. Both of these fumes exert green notes that later reveal leather and iris. But where Italian Leather was more crisp and had that dolce effect, Moroccan Leather was more balmy. The latter one is also greener in general. Like any other Memo Paris fragrance, Moroccan Leather was also composed by perfumer Alienor Massenet. A 75 ml bottle of this eau de parfum is adorned with flying hawk & moroccan geometric pattern.

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