Iris became my favorite perfume note for no particular reason. Turn of events (destined or not) allowed me to try several fragrances that featured this precious ingredient. I was enchanted by its scent and flexibility that lets the perfumers to present it in many different ways. Over the years my love for orris only grew stronger. That’s why I always search for new one to try. Some were pretty, others less, but that’s the magic of discovery. Once I learned that Parle Moi de Parfum is launching their iris I knew I had to try it. This brand was on my radar for a while – now I knew what to try first!
Orris Tattoo has a presence as if it came from another world. It starts in a very distant, esoteric way of smelling floral and watery at once. It’s chilly vibe is smooth like a silky sleeve sliding on your skin. Floral element is like it’s woven from see-through petals that imitates real silk & its exquisite feel. It’s has this sort of cold, dignified & regal posture – on one hand the perfume draws you in but at the same time you feel a bit of hesitation in the back of your head. Few minutes later Orris Tattoo gains a vegetal aspect of carrot – one of many layers iris accord can have. It’s still very subtle though.
This carrot impression was muted and quite transparent. It nicely assimilated with cold, watery & flowery aspect of Orris Tattoo I could smell from the very beginning. There’s even a hint of vegetable sweetness to it. As I spent a bit more time with it, this phase started to remind me a lot of Heeley Iris de Nuit, one of the irises that took me several years to appreciate. There’s a slight difference in the amount of ‘watery’ these two have but the idea remains the same. It’s like a mysterious and invisible veil of fragrance. Not present and present at the same time.
More time with Orris Tattoo on my skin revealed a purplish floral aspect of what I believe is a violet and a subtle plant-derived sweetness that hums in the background points out to candied flower petals. There’s also a bit of powdery vibe that’s slightly reminiscent of heliotrope. Do you know the smell of violet-flavored candy? The perfume smells like them at this point. Later on orris unveils a delicious buttery facet. It’s a bit oily & creamy, still feeling cold but also melting under your finger. One step away from the buttery goodness lies an earthy & rooty rendition of Orris Tattoo.
There’s a paradox here as even though Parle Moi de Parfum Orris Tattoo smells rooty, it doesn’t dig into the ground – actually it’s on the opposite as the perfume is more on an airy side, despite smelling this way. In the lower registers of the scent it’s still rather cold. The smell of wet concrete (cashmeran) blends with worn-out suede that is not so fuzzy anymore but still detectable to the point to leave an impression on the one who wears this fragrance. The perfume is completed with a whiff of humid air that carries a scent of sandalwood of unexpectedly coconutty-flavored surface.
Orris Tattoo from Parle Moi de Parfum is an art of a fragrance. Indeed this is a perfume that is fully dedicated to this precious material. No matter how complex my description would be and how accurate my nose was in picking different aspects of this composition, every moment has some facet of the iris as a leading actress. It’s quite unbelievable to create a perfume like this – a bounty of orris and its countless facades, and all of them feel elegant & pure. Orris Tattoo was composed by Michel Almairac. This sensual eau de parfum is like an invisible imprint on your skin. Simply gorgeous.