Tag Archives: 2018 launch

Inner Glow, Parle Moi de Parfum Orris Tattoo

Iris became my favorite perfume note for no particular reason. Turn of events (destined or not) allowed me to try several fragrances that featured this precious ingredient. I was enchanted by its scent and flexibility that lets the perfumers to present it in many different ways. Over the years my love for orris only grew stronger. That’s why I always search for new one to try. Some were pretty, others less, but that’s the magic of discovery. Once I learned that Parle Moi de Parfum is launching their iris I knew I had to try it. This brand was on my radar for a while – now I knew what to try first!

Orris Tattoo has a presence as if it came from another world. It starts in a very distant, esoteric way of smelling floral and watery at once. It’s chilly vibe is smooth like a silky sleeve sliding on your skin. Floral element is like it’s woven from see-through petals that imitates real silk & its exquisite feel. It’s has this sort of cold, dignified & regal posture – on one hand the perfume draws you in but at the same time you feel a bit of hesitation in the back of your head. Few minutes later Orris Tattoo gains a vegetal aspect of carrot – one of many layers iris accord can have. It’s still very subtle though.

This carrot impression was muted and quite transparent. It nicely assimilated with cold, watery & flowery aspect of Orris Tattoo I could smell from the very beginning. There’s even a hint of vegetable sweetness to it. As I spent a bit more time with it, this phase started to remind me a lot of Heeley Iris de Nuit, one of the irises that took me several years to appreciate. There’s a slight difference in the amount of ‘watery’ these two have but the idea remains the same. It’s like a mysterious and invisible veil of fragrance. Not present and present at the same time.

More time with Orris Tattoo on my skin revealed a purplish floral aspect of what I believe is a violet and a subtle plant-derived sweetness that hums in the background points out to candied flower petals. There’s also a bit of powdery vibe that’s slightly reminiscent of heliotrope. Do you know the smell of violet-flavored candy? The perfume smells like them at this point. Later on orris unveils a delicious buttery facet. It’s a bit oily & creamy, still feeling cold but also melting under your finger. One step away from the buttery goodness lies an earthy & rooty rendition of Orris Tattoo.

There’s a paradox here as even though Parle Moi de Parfum Orris Tattoo smells rooty, it doesn’t dig into the ground – actually it’s on the opposite as the perfume is more on an airy side, despite smelling this way. In the lower registers of the scent it’s still rather cold. The smell of wet concrete (cashmeran) blends with worn-out suede that is not so fuzzy anymore but still detectable to the point to leave an impression on the one who wears this fragrance. The perfume is completed with a whiff of humid air that carries a scent of sandalwood of unexpectedly coconutty-flavored surface.

Orris Tattoo from Parle Moi de Parfum is an art of a fragrance. Indeed this is a perfume that is fully dedicated to this precious material. No matter how complex my description would be and how accurate my nose was in picking different aspects of this composition, every moment has some facet of the iris as a leading actress. It’s quite unbelievable to create a perfume like this – a bounty of orris and its countless facades, and all of them feel elegant & pure. Orris Tattoo was composed by Michel Almairac. This sensual eau de parfum is like an invisible imprint on your skin. Simply gorgeous.

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Autumn Breath, Pierre Guillaume Jasmagonda

I don’t miss summer months yet, especially that we currently have even 15°C during the day which didn’t happen in November over last century or so. But due to reversing time by 1 hour few weeks ago the sun sets so early. It’s only a matter of couple of days until it’ll be down before I leave from work – just a though of that is a bit depressing. If something can keep my spirits high it’s tea, cinnamon cookies and perfume of course. My recent issue is that I didn’t bring that many samples from Pitti. I need more blog-worthy material. Good that Pierre Guillaume doesn’t disappoint.

To my nose Jasmagonda opens with tart juiciness of an apple. Crispy & crunchy facets of apple create a delicious symphony of intertwining flavors. At the beginning I have an impression of freshly cut fruit ‘dressed’ in green peel but after a couple of minutes it starts to blush – red color appears on our apple and at the same time a timid sweetness appears. Followed by acidic facets introduced by bergamot & grapefruit the perfume now gains a contrast of tastes. It’s mouth-watering in multiple ways, not to mention that apple slices dipped in citric juice sound like an apple pie baking tip.

After around 20 minutes the scent becomes noticeably more watery. Dilution of Jasmagonda is an effect of aquatic notes which are a part of this composition. Its smell turns more transparent and gains more clarity. Personally I detect a marine breeze with faint salty algae floating in the background. At this point Jasmagonda sure takes more of an airy approach. Floral nuances of jasmine form an element of surprise since it feels very pure and translucent. It’s like white-tinged sunny brightness. A lightweight, innocent jasmine staying very far from its indolic self.

jasmagonda

Such nature of jasmine in Pierre Guillaume Jasmagonda finds its explanation later on – that is when magnolia joins the composition. Through this flower we remain in the same narrative. Silky petals that marry together watery, floral and citrusy properties serve as a great continuation of jasmine that is so white and delicate as snowflakes. In addition to that the perfume also develops a verdant facet that smells like flower stems and reminds me of the way it smells inside of flower shops. This whole feeling of white becomes more creamy over time and some heaviness is added.

It happens because of tonka bean – it makes floral tones creamy, almost milky with some added sweetness and facets of subdued, warm spiciness braided with aromatic properties. It’s the smell of comfort & safety. Cedar is responsible for bringing more substantivity but to be honest I didn’t notice that it made any big impact on Jasmagonda. Vanilla on the contrary – it enhances the comforting feeling of tonka by adding warm, buttery sweetness. Once it combines with woody/grassy vetiver I get an impression of a woody pudding. A concoction of sweet & wood notes that go well together.

I was intrigued by this new fragrance made by Pierre Guillaume. On one hand it evokes memories of the past Summer but on the other hand it offers the warmth of a scent that I’m happy to wear in the Autumn. I guess it fits both of these seasons in a specific way. Jasmagonda lasts for a good amount of time and has moderate intensity. After recently launched Komorebi this is another scent to join Collection Rework. Numbered as 23.1, Jasmagonda is an alteration of Drama Nuui from 2008. This new eau de parfum is available in 50 ml and 100 ml bottles (with now updated label-stamp look).

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