Tag Archives: 2018 launch

Spring Forward, Ormaie Les Brumes

I have mixed feelings now. In the current situation around the world, with the increasing number of people affected by Covid-19 virus and more restrictions being put on citizens (in Poland some new ones were added yesterday) there are more important things than perfume. It just doesn’t spark so much joy temporarily. But then again in those hard times when social interactions are limited we need something to keep up the good spirit. Perfume can’t save the world but it can save your own sanity right now. So I have another fragrance from Ormaie I want to talk about today.

Les Brumes (Eng. mists) is a shy fragrance for which the play of subtleties is a key to appreciation. When the first droplets of a fragrant liquid touch your skin, it’s like delicate wake up call, like the ray of a morning sunlight that somehow sneaked into your bedroom through the blinds. Calm but vibrant smell of lemon enters your nostrils with certain laziness. It’s an energizing scent but it’s not straight in your face. Shortly mandarin and bergamot join the composition and since in both cases the perfumer accentuated their juicy facets, the perfume becomes a truly mouth-watering cocktail.

What really gets my attention in this citrus trio of Ormaie Les Brumes is the fact that the opening is characterized by an extraordinary purity. That lemon, lime and mandarin smell really clean, transparent, with absolutely nothing getting in the way of enjoying their aromas. Later on ginger appears in this concoction and adds a little bit of that specific, lemon-flavoured piquancy. This effect of spiciness only makes the citrus part more pretty. After a while citric notes start to dissipate – that’s when the scent starts to make some gentle shifts. Those subtle changes make the scent alive.

les-brumes-ormaie

Juiciness subsides and in its place some slightly herbaceous tones appear. There is a hint of sage which has a slightly green, sappy scent with a gently mentholy undertone which is almost ‘invisible’ to the nose. Cardamom also made its way to the heart of the composition but in my case it doesn’t seem to make any serious statement. Sage and the remaining citrus whispers still get most of my attention. I was surprised to see that Les Brumes lists jasmine and tuberose. Yes, I did notice some floral tones lifting up from the top of my wrist but it was more of an abstract accord, nothing specific.

Neither tuberose nor jasmine are my BFFs so let me tell you I didn’t smell anything indolic that would give me an idea that there’s one of those flowers in this very fragrance. Flowery tones, whatever they are, give Les Brumes a thread of plant-derived sweetness. When the base notes come to the foreground the perfume doesn’t lose any of its lightness and airiness. Usually more hefty notes like cedarwood, sandalwood or vetiver are carefully woven into this fragrance. They provide longevity (mind that hours later I can still smell some citrus from the top) and add depth.

Normally I don’t like press materials written by the brands because they are full of unnecessary blabber that doesn’t tell you much about the perfume itself. But in case of Ormaie and Les Brumes, the description is simply spot on. This fragrance is a vision of memories of a morning among citrus trees. It’s a vision of a magical moment when the morning fog vanishes, revealing a citrus orchard and the forests that surround it. It’s a beautiful picture and the perfume really reflects that. Should you search for an extraordinary citrus, this should be one of your top contenders.

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Taste of your Skin, Ormaie L’Ivree Bleue

The world of niche perfume is like a vast ocean. Either you are a skillful swimmer who knows their way in the water or if you don’t swim well – you’ll easily get overwhelmed and drown eventually. I don’t like that more and more fragrance brands appear out of nowhere – almost like mushrooms after the rain. They make lots of buzz around themselves but they have no roots and praise the uniqueness of their compositions. It’s become almost a cliche. So if I find a brand I never heard of, I like their story and fragrances are more than good, it’s like finding a pearl. Today it’s Ormaie.

On my skin L’Ivree Bleue starts with a mouth-watering mandarin note. It’s a happy smell of sweet’n’juicy pulp blended with an aromatic, exhilarating scent of the zest. It doesn’t take very long until the perfume turns more dense and syrupy, which results in giving sort of a candied effect to the mandarin. Rum gives this scent a golden and liquory hue that on one hand offers some booziness and sweet facet of sugar cane & molases on the other. To my nose it doesn’t smell very gourmand. My nose also picks a faint anisic scent in the background and a creamy floral tones of lily.

Heart of the composition takes on a floral path after some time and that’s when L’Ivree Bleue unveils its complexity of powdery notes. Placing violet and iris in the spotlight the perfume first warms up from the lights intensity. Iris has a very plushy feel to it in this Ormaie fragrance. It has a softness and delicacy of something fragile but at the same time it’s like a spine that holds everything up. The scent itself makes me think of a cosmetic powder and when violet adds some of its more charm – which is also powdery but in a more sweet, candy yet fresh way, the make up feel is real.

ivree-bleue

Ormaie L’Ivree Bleue is like a kaleidoscope at this stage of development. Each whiff is slightly different, more sweet, less sweet, more iris, less violet and so on. If this perfume was compared to a stage performance, it’s drydown would be the most intriguing part. The lights are down, only some small ones are still lit. It’s half-dark and cocoa is lurking somewhere in the shadows. It brings a thrill of mystery, an adult gourmand vibe – hot, roasted and finely powdered. You could almost paint your body with the bronze tan of this smell. It’s addictive and irresistible in the best possible way.

But the temptation is not over yet. You have to give in completely. Thick & extraordinarily balsamic benzoin adds another asset to this composition, turning L’Ivree Bleue into a gooey paste of perfumed goodness. Darkness of vanilla, or rather its pod, slowly oozes from the pores of your skin when you wear it. Patchouli creates a depth of the scent so that it almost becomes a void you want to toss yourself into. Before you know it only this scent will be on your mind, in every thought of yours. There’s no turning back from something this good. You are lost in this endless pleasure…

L’Ivree Bleue from Ormaie is a rare example of when the perfume immediately speaks to me and the review writes on its own. It’s been a while since I experienced that feeling. It’s quite the unusual perfume and I can’t think of anything alike. It is a bit Shalimarish (my new word in dictionary) on the iris but all in all it’s a very original perfume. I like the way it engages ones senses. Apparently the scent is meant to evoke exoticism of Gauguin and the jungle themes of Rousseau. L’Ivree Bleue is an eau de parfum available only in 100 ml bottle (pretty one though). I don’t know who’s a perfumer.

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