Tag Archives: 2018 launch

Italiamore, Three from Perris Monte Carlo

Summer is almost over and while most people already managed to forget they were on holiday and children are about to go back to school, there are still some who didn’t get a chance to enjoy their summertime away from work. Me included – but that’s about to change. Out of many vacation destinations I have never been to, for a 3rd year in a row I chose Italy for my time of a wind down & relaxation. This time I will visit yet another part of it. How could I not write about fragrances from Perris Monte Carlo inspired by Italy before taking my annual break from blogging?

cedro-diamante

Cedro di Diamante focuses on bounty of citron. This composition opens with a wonderfully juicy, freshly squeezed lemon aroma. It has an oily facet that adds more richness and intensity. Its take on lemon is quite sweet until citron and lime come to the center of attention. These 2 are also very juicy and lively but instead of sweetness they are built of several layers – One is fresh & green, the next one is more tart and zesty while another one gives Cedro di Diamante a tad more bitterness and acidity. It’s totally mouth-watering and drinkable (but don’t!) Verbena CO2 extract adds a lemony floral vibe that is more balsamic and harbaceous in perception. After 20 minutes the scent warms up. There’s a sparkling sensation coming from pink pepper (CO2 again!) and is followed by a fresh, citric tingle of ginger. Over time peppery vibe gets bulkier so that metallic particles can be smelled. Cedro di Diamante also features sichuan pepper which surely participated in strengthening this part of fragrance. I didn’t get very much of cardamom. After some time the perfume became rounder, softer and muskier. At this point I could smell some powdery iris serving as a background to the citrus main actors. And oakmoss created some duskiness built around shrubs and woods. A truly pretty fragrance.

mandarino-sicilia

Mandarino di Sicilia couldn’t be a composition built around anything else than mandarin. This fragrance doesn’t open, it literally bursts in contact with your skin, releasing a delicious cloud scented with super freshness. Invigorating splash of chilled green mandarin from Italy provides an instant mood-boost. So tasty that I’m salivating & so close to the real thing that if I felt warm breeze on my skin and heard leaves rustling, I would probably feel as if I were in Italy. Bitter orange adds even more flavor and its bitter facets entwines with mandarin sweetness. Some time later Mandarino di Sicilia becomes greener in a Mediterranean way. Paraguayan petitgrain has a dry green scent, reminiscent of succulents & it has some dusty facet too. Heart of the composition reveals floral notes – there’s a sheer and airy jasmine that makes the perfume more sensual and pretty. I call it a summer jasmine note – that reminds me of California Reverie by Van Cleef & Arpels. Of course there’s also orange blossom that introduces white-tinted freshness with a citrus background with a tiny screech to it. Contrasting with it and appearing later is geranium that adds a crunchy green vibe. Couple of hours later reveal the smell of cedarwood chips and some muskiness blended with delicate amber. Very relaxing.

bergamotto-calabria

Finally we have Bergamotto di Calabria, an olfactory nod to bergamot which at the same time is probably the most iconic fragrance ingredient coming from Italy. It opens with a very tart and sour bergamot scent. It’s quite pungent citrus opening at first but after a couple of minutes it calms down. When it does, zestiness of bergamot becomes much more pronounced and dominates with its aromatic molecules. Petitgrain and peppers (pink and sichuan) kind of create the impression of a jungle filled with lush verdancy with a spiced up feeling in the distance. Heart of this one is similar to Mandarino di Sicilia. It has jasmine, neroli and orange blossom but all 3 feel more saturated and definitely more acidic & zesty. When drydown kicks in I firstly notice the dryness of vetiver gradually taking over. It’s grassy, reminiscent of hay smell but with coumarin replaced by more woody, rooty scent. Lucky for me that it doesn’t smell earthy. Sandalwood and its substantivity smooth any sharp edges and allow a seamless transition to further elements of the base. There’s a soft, fluffy muskiness that sort of melts with natural skin odour but is enhanced with iris that in this case has a silky-powdery finish. It feels elegant and I have to say that bergamot is still there somewhere, even after couple of hours.

All three fragrances from Perris Monte Carlo Italian Collection are really well made. They are fresh, uplifting and effervescent, combining a traditional eau de cologne summery charm with modernity of other ingredients like woods and spices.To accent lightness of these compositions the brand decided to use sleek transparent bottle with golden cap & name plate. Bottle features brad’s signature white pattern that kind of gives it a frozen look. Cedro di Diamante was developed by Luca Maffei, Mandarino di Sicilia by Gian Luca Perris and Bergamotto di Calabria is their joint work. These eau de parfums have decent sillage and longevity but I still wish they lasted longer on my skin.

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Regal Dignity, 1907 Mon Âme

To say that a perfume market in general (not just in Europe) is ruled by fragrancesfrom France and Italy wouldn’t be an exagerration. Sure, there are also some brands from Spain & Portugal, Germany, Benelux or from Nordic countries – but honestly, how many can you name? That’s why I was surprised when a fellow blogger sent me a message asking if I’d be interested in trying something new from a niche perfume house based in Slovakia. It was something new & not typical to learn about 1907, founded by Eva Skovranova  four years ago in memory of her grandmother.

Mon Ame introduces itself with an uber sophisticated iris note. Or should I say orris, because it has a really dense, thick character. It has that elegant and luxurious richness that only iris butter or iris concrete could provide. The perfume certainly has a delightful buttery facet that through its creamy, sweet and silky soft nuances makes my mouth water. In case of this perfume orris also entwines with the leathery (or suede) undertone hiding deeper within self – complexity is obvious from the very start and how different aspects of same material play with each other is quite satisfying.

Iris plays solo for a little while, maybe for 15-20 minutes until other elements of Mon Ame become more present. Next in order of appearance was violet. When it arrived, a powdery veil came as it was following it. It has a lovely high-end cosmetic vibe. Later violet became more floral and a tad dewy. The latter impression, that of dewiness, was continued by lily-of-the-valley note. It introduced a meadow-like, watery freshness associated with spring flowers that bloom in white color. Because I’m not a big muguet fan I was hoping for this part to quickly pass & in my case it did.

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Over time the woodiness started to control a steering wheel of Mon Ame. Cedarwood became particularly well-pronounced, to the point that the fragrance became quite woody, substantive & with a solid base. It almost overpowered the buttery orris smell. Cedar felt a bit dry and chunky on my skin but then it usually is more rough and asymmetric in shape. Sandalwood, appearing later, is the very of it. usually smooth & shiny. Here as well, and it has a ‘woody pudding’ creaminess to it. 2 woody notes really create dimension and substance in Mon Ame. It’s a delicious concoction.

The perfume so far was quite bright and luminous but in the drydown it loses a bit of radiance, becoming a little darker. I think that patchouli especially contributes to that impression – it smells vegetal, of moist soil and roots in it. Combination of green, woody and earthy scents is what I smell. Afterward things warm up, tonka bean effuses its creamy spiciness giving Mon Ame some sensual softness. White Musk additionally feels very wooly and fluffy – mixed with tonka it’s like plush. And it has a delicate rose hue in the background that just makes this ending much more beautiful.

I didn’t know what to expect from a brand that was completely unknown to me. After spending a couple of years in this industry I know quite well what I like and what I want. Because of that I can get sceptical sometimes towards novelties that don’t appeal to me immediately. But Mon Ame and 1907 brand surprised me in a very positive way. The perfume feels very glamorous, structured and has a distinctive retro, vintage-y vibe. Mon Ame is a part of ‘Beneath the Surface’ collection. It’s a pure perfume containing 20% fragrance oils. It comes in a 50 ml minimalistic yet elegant bottle.

[note] Many thanks to my friend Christiane who let me use her gorgeous photo in this review. If you haven’t discovered it yet, you must check her instagram for daily dose of perfume bottle porn.

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