Monday Quick Sniffs, part 61

How is this even possible that it’s been 2 months since my special yuzu edition of MQS? Is it just me or do you also have an impression that in the times of Covid the time flies even faster than usual?

Amouage introduced Interlude Man in 2012 and it was a challenging perfume due to heavily accentuated notes of oregano and pimento. 8 years later Interlude Man Black Iris is born. It’s the first flanker in the long history of the brand and also one of the first (if not first) launch after a major shuffle within the brand’s structures. This perfume starts with an oily & zesty bergamot note accompanied by herbaceous & aromatic rosemary. After a moment a crisp dewiness of violet leaf emerges. Instead of oregano there’s orris – deep and rooty, silky-cold and elegant. It’s warmed up by generously dosed frankincense that is followed by ambery tones. Going further there is labdanum and myrrh that give Interlude Man Black Iris its resiny vibe. A hint of vanilla (which smells like a bourbon) adds a bit of sweetness to this dark fragrance. Base is a mixture of hefty woody notes such as sandalwood and cedarwood, combined with leather and oud. In general it feels like a more streamlined, more wearable version of its predecessor.

For any perfume writer the number of reviews dedicated to a specific brand is probably the best measuring scale to determine if they like the fragrances from this house or not. Considering the fact that I have never written about Xerjoff before – so that’s a clear signal for you, no? Apollonia, named as a tribute to a successful lunar landing of Apollo 11 in 1969, its composition starts with an abstract white blossoms accord. Abstract because there’s not a single floral note that would dominate it. It’s like a mass of flowers among which you can’t tell which is jasmine, tuberose or an orange flower. There’s a lot of airy creaminess to it with a pollen-like sweetness. Gradually the density of the perfume changes and the focus goes towards the orris butter. In this perfume it is viscous, blending the fatty aspect of iris with its waxy tones. When you smell it you get an impression of reserve, of restraint. It’s kind of like a statuesque persona, like someone who feels they are better because they’re rich. But it is a pretty iris note nonetheless. The perfume dries down to an abundance of white musk in variety of forms – there’s a bit of cotton candy effect, a bit of something like a meringue and a tad of something plush & fluffy. On my skin Apollonia is not very complex, it’s rather linear and lacks something that sparks interest. At this price point I can easily pass, even if the bottle is covered with moon dust…

I liked the initial releases from Altaia (an offspring brand from the owners of Eau d’Italie) but the fragrances that joined their portfolio later were not really my cup of tea. Just like Purple Land from 2018. The fragrance starts with a prominent note of grapefruit that feels juicy but also bears the sweaty undertone that does not contribute to a pleasant experience. It subsides after some time, making room for exotic fruitiness of guava and papaya. Both give the perfume a strong fruity vibe that feels summery, mouth-watering and quite fleshy. Over time the floral aspect of the scent rises up, with lily of the valley taking a lead role in it. Muguet gives Purple Land a watery, gently floral feel that is reminiscent of a morning dew. Frangipani on the other hand makes the flowery phase more lactonic & creamy. The base is warmed up by ambrox molecule – combined with the other notes of this perfume it smells quite similar to popular sun tan lotions. Lush tropical flowers over the warm base, like a sun-kissed skin. Everything is finished by air-whipped, creamy musks. These notes seem a bit odd for one scent, but on general thought it’s not a bad perfume. None of these 3 Quick Sniffs are bad.

Sparkly Days, Exaltatum Mimosa Gold

Over the last couple of years the arrival of September meant something exciting for me. Normally I should have my bags packed by now, living my summer holiday adventure (in Italy or somewhere else for a change) just like I used to do it over the last 5 years. But not this time. I’m still spending my days at home, thinking where to get some rest in Poland. But I lack the mood & inspiration for that. At the end of this week I should be travelling to Florence for Pitti but it’s not going to happen.

2020 is weird in so many ways because of Covid… Thank goodness that our passion for perfume transcends any borders. Can you imagine all of us being connected by an invisible thread and forming a fragrant net that wraps around the globe? Thanks to Elena, who I miss greatly, I was able to discover Mimosa Gold from Exaltatum – a brand that I didn’t know before. This composition starts with a sweet scent of mirabelle which takes me down the memory lane as in my home town there were wild mirabelle plum trees growing in many places & I remember the delicate scent of their flowers and the ripe aroma of their little pink-orange fruit. After a moment almond blossom joins in – it has a characteristic, slightly milky floral tone that I know mostly from cosmetic products.

Champaca flower introduces a yellow tinge to the perfume, at the same time bringing forth a creamy texture that feels like a sun tan lotion scented with gently tropical notes. Star anise adds a subtle spicy feeling to the perfume while lemon petitgrain make the opening feel more fresh. Mimosa Gold hides its true glory in its heart. A multidimensional mimosa accord starts with a layer of sweet, oozing golden honey that unrolls in front of you like a red carpet in Cannes during the film festival. Not overdone in any aspect, its luminosity with a back note of warm beeswax leads to a floral bouquet that is there to cheer you up. Millions of tiny yellow pom poms, each of them like a little sun.

Exaltatum Mimosa Gold marries the scent of mimosa dealbata – gently sweet & pollen-like, almost powdery with acacia farnesiana which is slightly more dense, waxy. They are blended so skillfully that all you want to do is sit back and inhale this sweet, flowery and very dreamy scent. This mimosa note is composed with a lot of finesse – it feels very different from other perfume that focus on this tiny golden flower, but there is certainly a room for various interpretations. Complexity of mimosa accord is followed here by creamy and summery scent of ylang-ylang. Milky and powdery, almost almondy heliotrope adds a delicious facet a’la pastry cream. Its flavor is quite unique.

All of you probably know that pleasant feeling when the rays of sun warms your skin. Mimosa Gold has a similar effect on the senses. For the next couple of hours it lets you enjoy the powdery & creamy nuances colored with yellow and gold streaks. Gradually the perfume dries down to a comforting, soft base of sandalwood. Its woodiness is supple & delicate, an equivalent of a hug from a loved one. Tonka adds a bit of creaminess and an aromatic vibe. Benzoin recalls the honeyed feel from the opening but with a more resinous feel to it. Hint of silky iris evolves into a rooty scent of dry vetiver with a bit of patchouli stained soil. This truly intricate perfume will charm you with its glowy facets. It’s a composition full of optimism and youthful joy. An actual burst of yellow happiness.

After trying Mimosa Gold from Exaltatum I’m glad that Elena introduced me to this indie house. The brand is owned and the fragrances are created by Eglija Vaitkevice – Lithuanian who honed her perfumery skills at Grasse Institute of Perfumery. She now lives in London where she composes according to her own vision. Isn’t she an excellent example that perfume knows no bounds? Mimosa Gold is an extract de parfum and comes in 50 ml bottles. The brand is also offering more perfumista-friendly sizes – 15 and 30 ml flacons. I look forward to finding out how her other scents smell like.