Monday Quick Sniffs, part 65

Hey, it’s me! Yes, I’m still alive in case you were wondering. The blog hasn’t been doing well lately but it’s not because I have been unwell myself… It’s just not much is happening in the perfume world. Or at least I’m not noticing the stuff going on around. Anyways sampling new fragrances is still a nuisance & it’s difficult to write a new article without test material, you know. But I don’t want to stop writing and I don’t want Chemist in the Bottle to be forgotten in the blogosphere. Hence today, after another month-long break, some scented tidbits that might interest someone.

Eau de Minthe joined Diptyque‘s line up of fragrances in 2019 and I remember briefly smelling it at Parisian Galleries Lafayette during one of the steps of perfumery school recruitment process. But it was so fast and there were other more important emotions back then that I didn’t remember the way it smell. Fast forward to 2021 and the chance has arisen. This is not your average refreshing minty cologne for the summer. This is a very herbaceous and green kind of mint that has a certain sharpness & bitterness to it. Geranium note emphasizes the green and stemy facet that simultaneously makes Eau de Minthe crunchy and crisp. Rose Oxide introduced a bit of a rosy accent but most of all it deliveres an ice-cold cut to the fragrance. It’s not brutal but it’s shocking. On the opposite side there’s also a patchouli note that tries to keep the fragrance on the warmer side. This is one unusual concoction, more masculine too – reminiscent of Old Spice… well, kind of.

Those of you who have been reading me for years know that I am fond of the natural fragrances composed by Hiram Green. You’d also know that generally I don’t shy away from weird perfume and in worst case the MQS is the one and only time for me to try something. Quite recently Hiram launched a new creation around vetiver note. Its name – Vetiver – as simple as that. Except there is one big but – me and vetiver come from two different fairytales. I don’t like the word “nuke” but that’s what comes to mind when I smell it. This perfume is a “vetiver for advanced” enthusiasts of the note. The scent is super dry and super aromatic right off the bat, smelling of sun-dried grass, roots, a bit of hay as well. It’s earthy and woody with a lot of richness to it. Maybe it’s the mix of vetiver from Haiti and from Java that works this way but it smells multidimensional to me. Neither citrus not ginger stand out to me in the opening phase but I think they may contribute to the stronger perception of vetiver itself? I kind of see ginger working that way. Cedarwood and patchouli add to the earthy woodiness of Hiram Green Vetiver. There’s raw wood, some wood shavings and all the carpentry stuff going on. Vetiver fans will be enamored with latest from Hiram. For me it’s too much as at times it gets too tarry or “meaty” on me.

I still remember when the brand named Une Nuit a Bali debuted at one of the perfume exhibitions in Italy. Years have passed and the brand has grown stronger (at least that’s what I think it is when you introduce more fragrances regularly). Today this perfume house is called Une Nuit Nomade and today I’m exploring their Jardins de Misfah. Well, this is a gorgeous floriental fragrance. Maybe not very innovatived but no less pretty because of that. The opening offers a mild spicy blend of cardamom and nutmeg that feel crunchy, a bit tingly and kind of dry. But this first impression is fleeting as the perfume quickly proceeds to the heart notes. Here a lavish date accord is revealed and the way it smells makes my mouth water in an instant. It has a delightful sweetness served in an oriental style. It’s mild and inoffensive – perhaps that’s what makes it so appealing. Coupled with rose absolute and rose essence for a deep and luxurious experience of immersing yourself in the pool filled with bright red floral petals. Saffron adds a golden glow to the rose – it’s like a nectar, a honey-like substance that envelops the flower and make it smell even more divine. A hint of almond in the base with its powdery finish gives an elegant gourmand facet worthy of a royalty.

1 Swallow Doesn’t Make a Summer, Two from Dusita

First of all I owe you an apology for being quiet for so long – at the end of April I got sick and had a lot of covid symptoms like fever and coughing. I got tested and the result was negative, meaning I simply caught a more nasty spring cold. I’m still coughing a bit but overally I feel fine. Other than that I suffered from lack of inspiration and deficiency of new samples to test and possibly review.

***

The idea of “my brand” or “not my brand” is not new in the perfume world but I believe that for me it was Undina that introduced this term to my fragrance dictionary. I have a list of “my brands” in my head and for these brands I’m always eagerly anticipating the news about upcoming fragrances or events they organize. Parfums Dusita, despite being a young niche brand (only 5 years old now) quickly gained a worldwide recognition. Currently rocking 12 perfume I also became a fan of Pissara Umavijani compositions. There are small exceptions and today I’ll talk about those.

Le Pavillon d’Or is not my kind of perfume and probably that’s why I haven’t smelled it earlier than over a year after its premiere, which took place in 2019. The composition starts with a sweet & green honeysuckle note – a nice, vegetal scent with hints of honey and hay. After a moment an aromatic mint joins, making the fragrance fresher but far from the toothpaste territory. The scent it gives off is more dry, herbaceous. Orris root adds a touch of earthiness that gradually evolves into more rooty & buttery facets typically associated with iris in perfumery. Heart of Le Pavillon d’Or offers a bounty of green notes. Boronia – flowers native to Australia, offer a fragrance that is slightly honeyed but also feels dusty and aged. Thyme adds a herbal impression that seamlessly transitions into fig leaf accord. You know me and how little of a fan of fig I am when it comes to my perfume. Here this leaf feels dusty too, with undertone of tree sap and something milky underneath. Heliotrope makes the fragrance feel smoother thanks to the creamy floral nuances it adds to this Dusita creation. Hints of frankincense are noticeable just like wisps of smoke floating lazily in the air. The drydown is a woody blend of oak wood – an accord created by Pissara herself. To my nose it really smells like some wooden barrels. Additionally sandalwood intensifies the perception of the woody notes in the base. Like all Dusita perfumes, Le Pavillon d’Or is a very pretty composition. It just doesn’t speak to me like her other perfumes do.

Cavatina is the most recent Dusita creation that joined the brand’s portfolio at the end of this April. As explained by Pissara during Instagram live launch event, the perfume is heavily inspired by vintage Diorissimo. The perfume opens with a very fresh & clean manner. Muted, citrusy scent of bergamot blends with some sparkling fizziness that smells like aldehydes, although they aren’t mentioned among official top notes (but they are in the heart). Slightly woody scent of litsea cubeba (a kind of aromatic shrub) marries with the scent of petitgrain, paving the way for the biggest star of Cavatina. Lily of the valley in Cavatina smells uber-realistic which is not an easy feat knowing that muguet cannot be naturally extracted at an efficient level. Pissara combined a number of other materials to create her own LOTV accord which smells like an open field full of tiny, white, bell-shaped flowers. Heart of this perfume is what makes it bloom – literally. Innocent smell of tea rose plays with tuberose & jasmine for a grand white floral experience. Cavatina is gentle but has a carnal side as well. Ylang-ylang adds an element of solar creaminess to the blend. In the base heliotrope gives off an aroma that sits between creamy tonka and smooth florals. Ambrette and cypress introduce a bit of greenness. Everything is topped with elegant vanilla that feels slightly oriental and a bit gourmand, it compliments the lily of the valley heart beautifully. I’m sure many people will find Cavatina special but it’s a very specific perfume that will find a niche in the niche. Not everyone will love it given that white florals are polarizing among fragrance lovers.

As they say – you can’t love them all. I don’t think there’s anything to be ashamed of if the brand you love and support releases a perfume that doesn’t fit your taste. Afterall perfume is very subjective and things like that are bound to happen on regular basis. You’ll love one perfume more, the other one less. But that doesn’t change the fact that I love Dusita for creativity & ingenuity in raw material use, but most of all for Pissara who is one of the warmest & the friendliest people in the industry. If you tried Le Pavillon d’Or or Cavatina, do let me know how much you liked them.