Tag Archives: 2020 launch

Viva la Vida, Hiram Green Vivacious

In some of the posts that I have written over the last couple of months I mentioned how much more difficult it is to speak about and fully enjoy perfume and that I felt kind of guilty by doing so while there were reports of the numbers of victims increasing in more and more countries. Many of you send their positive words of encouragement – that we all love perfume and if it helps, it helps – so do it. Of course you were right! So I decided to find something that sparks pure happiness right from the start. Thanks to Hiram Green and his new perfume, this weekend I found my true joy.

Vivacious opens with a zing of bergamot that feels particularly green and almost biting in the first impression. For a short moment it smells to me like something else, bringing ivy or vines to my mind. Once that first feeling fades away, a more juicy, tart, yet bittergreen side of bergamot is revealed. It effuses a pleasant and joyful scent that differs from the usual hesperidic rendition of this citrus fruit, at least on my skin. This non-obvious opening doesn’t last for long and just a couple of minutes after I invited this perfume to spend the day with me, the composition started to evolve in a floral direction.

vivacious

As Hiram Green described on his website, Vivacious is centered around violet flower and is a nod to Victorian times. Little purple flowers were one of Queen Victoria’s favourites. Not only were they used to perfume fine toiletries but they also found their way into confectionery. Victorians enjoyed eating candied violets and using them in various pastries & cakes. They were also popular cut flowers used to adorn one’s outfit. In England of older days these flowers became a symbol of fidelity and modesty. All these various elements are beautifully reflected in this new perfume.

Vivacious transitions into its floral heart without any visible seams. Violet, like a queen, claims the center place on a throne almost immediately. At first the scent is more reminiscent of violet leaf as I identify something freshly green, crispy & with a little bit of dewiness. But then the flowers open up and the air is filled with their mesmerizing fragrance. If magic was translated into scent, it would smell like this. Violets here give off a sweet, pollen like aroma that feels delicious. It’s tad sugary feeling, quite edible but far from any definition of gourmand. Later on violet becomes more powdery and gains that characteristic facet that makes it feel more like a luxurious cosmetic.

Powdery aspect of violet is often associated with lipsticks, press powders and boudoirs. But when I smell this new perfume I completely don’t get that vibe. Instead Hiram Green Vivacious gives me some type of freshness that’s hidden inside. Somewhere in the background there’s also a smell of violet candy I remember from my childhood. Ah, nostalgia! When carnation joins the composition the floral bouquet becomes a little spicy with that charismatic fiery flair you might know from Prada Infusion d’Oeillet or Aedes Oeillet Bengale. The perfume feels warmer on the skin thanks to it & in my opinion carnation is also what makes Vivacious a perfume suitable for both men and women.

hiram-green-vivacious

I was excited for orris in Vivacious and I have to tell you that it makes a big difference. At the moment it becomes noticeable on the skin, the whole composition becomes incredibly elegant & sophisticated. Buttery, waxy facets of iris give the perfume a smooth, velvety finish with that luminous sheen. Light woody element of this accord makes me think of some vintage furniture piece – old but glossy & polished. Powdery amber in the drydown has a cosy, reassuring effect. It gives Vivacious warmth, as if you were wrapped by a fluffy blanket with a favourite hot drink in your hand.

Vivacious by Hiram Green is a bottled elixir of joy. It’s the kind of perfume that can brighten a worse day and bring smile to your face. I just love how refined and carefree it feels when you wear it. Not to mention that Hiram once again mastered his ingredients giving them so much energy that this 100% natural composition lasts all day on me. To me Vivacious is a celebration of life & nature around us – a path of light that will guide us towards the better days. Just what many of us need right now to cheer up. I seriously think I might need more of this gorgeous perfume. Vivacious is an eau de parfum and is available in 50 ml bottles. It’s a must try if iris or violet make you swoon.

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Floral dew, Olfactive Studio Violet Shot & Rose Shot

You must have noticed by now that my motivation for writing has dropped significantly since COVID-19 spread its tentacles all over the world. I still love fragrance, no less than before, but in the back of my head there’s a faint voice saying that it’s kind of selfish to indulge in the world of smells when such bad things happen every day around, in Poland and other countries. But then again perfume is what helps me stay sane and lift my spirit. I’m a bit torn but you deserve this writing too!

Violet Shot starts with a bright and prominent mandarin that quickly takes on a pink hue of the pink pepper. This mild and playful spiciness is like a thread that connects all 3 of the new Olfactive Studio Shots. It’s definitely rounder than black peppe but it still can have some of the metallic or aldehydic tones. The perfume goes green relatively early with the leading theme of freshly cut grass. It’s a specific sensation for the nose – it smells of plant juice, green, but also a bit dewy and watery. To some extend. In real life I don’t really like the smell of cut grass but I don’t mind it in this perfume.

violet-shot

From the smell of mown grass, the green element extends to the heart of Violet Shot and transforms into that of violet leaf. Yes, there’s a floral aspect to it but this accord is mainly made of green, aquaeous facets with crisp & fresh finish that represent the thick and crunchy leaves of violet flower. You cannot mistake it with anything else. Then… a mysterious encounter. Violet, being more cool and reserved in nature, meets Safraleine – a molecule (Givaudan) posessing a warm, spicy, leathery facets reminiscent of saffron. So warm and cold collide, marrying in a dream team that you’d never expect!

Over time the warmth starts to dominate in Violet Shot and though the crispiness of violet leaf is there to stay, saffron-like, ambery tones turn up the heat. This leads us to the drydown, where Madagascar vanilla unleashes a full potiential of the “black gold”. It’s thick, viscous smell that veers oriental creates some sort of a neo-gourmand concoction with the violet – which now smells more powdery & candied. Labdanum and patchouli highlight even more the balsamic and resinous impressions. The perfume has depth and complex nature that will keep you thrilled through the day.

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The opening of Rose Shot is kind of astringent, with a little bit of sharpness coming from the bergamot. This initial impression quickly evolves into more sour & juicy citrus pulp with a hint of aromatic qualities of the peel. Within less than 5 minutes the perfume starts to resonate on the skin and the scent becomes vibrant. Pink pepper gives it an elegant, spicy tinge – to my nose it’s also slightly metallic and I even had a feeling of something aldehydic at the back. Elemi adds a little bit of resinous density to the top of the composition so that it lasts a bit longer on skin.

rose-shot

No surprise that in the heart of this perfume one will find a rose. I this particular case it’s a Turkish rose. Compared to rose de mai, the Damask rose is usually more oily and dense, with a richer scent. But in Rose Shot it’s more about its complexity. At different moment it seems to put on a new face, revealing a cascade of facets. In dominating part its obviously floral but with time it progresses, unfolding elements that smell a bit like geranium – crisp & green, a little bit herbal and minty. There’s even a faint impression of clove to it. This rose is surrounded by handfuls of white flowers.

They make this new Olfactive Studio softer, more ethereal. Floral aspect of Rose Shot might seem diffusive but it’s actually quite surprising for how long you can smell the rose on your skin. I guess this is how you recognize the talent of master perfumers, by the way they can play with essences to make even the lightest ones last longer. In the base you can find guaiac wood and cedar. Combination of these two woody notes gives a solid foundation to the scent. Tree moss introduces some rustic woody-earthiness with a bit of something dry and rough-textured. Lovely scent.

Among the 3 Shot fragrances that are launching in 2020 I now think that Iris Shot is the one that I like the most but the other two are not that far behind in this race. Iris Shot, Violet Shot and Rose Shot were all developed by perfumer Dominique Ropion and floral photographs that inspired the scents were shot by Roberto Greco. It’s a very solid trio. I hope they will be successful despite the difficult times we are experiencing right now. These fragrances come in 100 ml eau de parfum.

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