Tag Archives: 2021 launch

Scorched Ground, Memo Sicilian Leather

Do you think that Covid pandemic will permanently change our habits & behaviors? I have been vaccinated with both doses of Pfizer vaccine but still there’s a lot of hesitation inside me when it comes to go back to travelling abroad. For now I’m still staying on a safer side and limit my voyages to the ones within Poland. Especially that the shadow of the 4th wave is looming nearby. Of course I miss friends who live abroad and I miss the opportunity to try so many new fragrances at the perfume shows but it is what it is. That’s why I was happy to see Memo introduce Sicilian Leather – a promise of wonderful trip without leaving home. Does it smell like one of my past summers?

Smelling Sicilian Leather really does bring back memories of my past vacations. On my skin the leathery tones come righ up but they are not the only ones that my nose can pick up. Tangy citrus notes brighten up the opening like the rising sun – a symbol of Sicily. Bitter orange with its mouth-watering juiciness starts an energetic dance when Italian bergamot & lime join this magnificent performance of smells. I feel caught in a vortex of yellow, orange and green-ish hues as my nose registers the hesperidic smells of various type. Some of them are more zesty, the others are more dry like a gin. But at least for me it’s that beautiful orange scent that leads the rest of the notes.

Not much later the bright citrus opening becomes more low-key and at that point some spicy notes become more pronounced. Coriander and cardamom introduce a grainy texture to Sicilian Leather and they make the perfume venture into spicy direction in a way that feels very dry to my nose. When I smell it what comes to my mind is the smell of old paper, old books, parchment but also of the cracked clay ground that has been scorched by the Mediterranean sun. It’s a specific type of smell but to me it’s very pleasant and what I think better defines this new fragrance as “sicilian”.

Over time the character of Memo Sicilian Leather shifts its character towards more aromatic side. Balsam fir is what gives this perfume more dimension as depth by emanating the slightly coniferous smell that I perceive as “warm & cold” at once. It’s warm because the noter per se is quite balsamic and enveloping. Cold because it gives me this weird feeling of solitude in the dark & deep forest. Violet leaf breaks away from this vision as it introduces a fresh verdancy, a crunchy and dewy smell of the flower leaves. There’s something elegant and sophisticated about it, I must admit.

The drydown of this composition is when the leather accord really shines. The leather becomes particularly soft and suede-like in Sicilian Leather but there’s also something a bit rough and austere to it. It certainly does carry the scent reminiscent of tanning and colorants. The scent is rich but not overpowered – and it smells like a brand new bag from an expensive artisan. Cedarwood gives more density while gaiac wood provides an effect that I’d compare with waxing. The scent is woody, deep but also oily, with some heft. Patchouli introduces some earthiness that is a fitting effect for a perfume of this sort. Akigalawood which is a woody-patchouli molecule completes the picture.

I was writing this review on a particularly ugly day – it was raining heavily and the temperature dropped by 10 degrees compared to the previous day. It really made me wonder if the end of summery weather is near. Sicilian Leather from Memo and perfumer Yann Vasnier rekindled the memories of super hot days I spent in Taormina, Palermo or at the hills of Etna couple of years ago. I’m grateful any perfume that has the ability to brighten up the day and make you feel warm when it’s cold. Whenever I’ll want to remember those days again I’ll reach for Sicilian Leather, it’s such a great fragrance. (but Italian Leather still remains my number one among Cuirs Nomades series)

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Monday Quick Sniffs, part 65

Hey, it’s me! Yes, I’m still alive in case you were wondering. The blog hasn’t been doing well lately but it’s not because I have been unwell myself… It’s just not much is happening in the perfume world. Or at least I’m not noticing the stuff going on around. Anyways sampling new fragrances is still a nuisance & it’s difficult to write a new article without test material, you know. But I don’t want to stop writing and I don’t want Chemist in the Bottle to be forgotten in the blogosphere. Hence today, after another month-long break, some scented tidbits that might interest someone.

Eau de Minthe joined Diptyque‘s line up of fragrances in 2019 and I remember briefly smelling it at Parisian Galleries Lafayette during one of the steps of perfumery school recruitment process. But it was so fast and there were other more important emotions back then that I didn’t remember the way it smell. Fast forward to 2021 and the chance has arisen. This is not your average refreshing minty cologne for the summer. This is a very herbaceous and green kind of mint that has a certain sharpness & bitterness to it. Geranium note emphasizes the green and stemy facet that simultaneously makes Eau de Minthe crunchy and crisp. Rose Oxide introduced a bit of a rosy accent but most of all it deliveres an ice-cold cut to the fragrance. It’s not brutal but it’s shocking. On the opposite side there’s also a patchouli note that tries to keep the fragrance on the warmer side. This is one unusual concoction, more masculine too – reminiscent of Old Spice… well, kind of.

Those of you who have been reading me for years know that I am fond of the natural fragrances composed by Hiram Green. You’d also know that generally I don’t shy away from weird perfume and in worst case the MQS is the one and only time for me to try something. Quite recently Hiram launched a new creation around vetiver note. Its name – Vetiver – as simple as that. Except there is one big but – me and vetiver come from two different fairytales. I don’t like the word “nuke” but that’s what comes to mind when I smell it. This perfume is a “vetiver for advanced” enthusiasts of the note. The scent is super dry and super aromatic right off the bat, smelling of sun-dried grass, roots, a bit of hay as well. It’s earthy and woody with a lot of richness to it. Maybe it’s the mix of vetiver from Haiti and from Java that works this way but it smells multidimensional to me. Neither citrus not ginger stand out to me in the opening phase but I think they may contribute to the stronger perception of vetiver itself? I kind of see ginger working that way. Cedarwood and patchouli add to the earthy woodiness of Hiram Green Vetiver. There’s raw wood, some wood shavings and all the carpentry stuff going on. Vetiver fans will be enamored with latest from Hiram. For me it’s too much as at times it gets too tarry or “meaty” on me.

I still remember when the brand named Une Nuit a Bali debuted at one of the perfume exhibitions in Italy. Years have passed and the brand has grown stronger (at least that’s what I think it is when you introduce more fragrances regularly). Today this perfume house is called Une Nuit Nomade and today I’m exploring their Jardins de Misfah. Well, this is a gorgeous floriental fragrance. Maybe not very innovatived but no less pretty because of that. The opening offers a mild spicy blend of cardamom and nutmeg that feel crunchy, a bit tingly and kind of dry. But this first impression is fleeting as the perfume quickly proceeds to the heart notes. Here a lavish date accord is revealed and the way it smells makes my mouth water in an instant. It has a delightful sweetness served in an oriental style. It’s mild and inoffensive – perhaps that’s what makes it so appealing. Coupled with rose absolute and rose essence for a deep and luxurious experience of immersing yourself in the pool filled with bright red floral petals. Saffron adds a golden glow to the rose – it’s like a nectar, a honey-like substance that envelops the flower and make it smell even more divine. A hint of almond in the base with its powdery finish gives an elegant gourmand facet worthy of a royalty.

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