Tag Archives: A Dozen Roses

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 17

Byredo Bullion is a really funny perfume to me. Probably because in Polish we have a word “bulion” (written with one “L”) and it means a soup base. Even though Bullion has nothing to do with bulion, I can’t escape the connection of the names. On my skin Byredo Bullion starts with a floral smell of tiny osmanthus flowers. To me the note smell like a green tea infusion, flavored with apricot. After 10-15 minutes it turns fruity with plum that is dried and smoked. Addition of leather accord highlights the smoky and balmy character that Bullion just gained. Some time later the fragrance gets watered down, maybe because of magnolia. There was also a pale woodiness of sandalwood and other woods, described at Fragrantica as “dark woodsy notes.” 5 hours later, in the drydown there’s a lot of musk, white and quite clean with a hint of spiciness sourced from pink pepper. All in all Bullion by Byredo is a nice perfume but on me it’s very weak in terms of longevity and projection. If somebody has tried it – please share and tell if the perfume sticks to your skin for longer than 6 hours. It was launched in 2012.

Ambre Muscadin by Laurent Mazzone’s LM Parfums was introduced in 2011. To me it opens with a tsunami of honey. In the opening stage there’s a lot of bright sweetness and luckily it’s not sticky or cloying. It just wraps around your arms and becomes warmer and warmer, softer and softer. Musk plays a significant role in this perfume. It’s sensual and erotic. Not exactly clean as it has some dirtier facets bringing to mind a view of sweaty, sporty body. Amber is luminous here. Not plastic at all but more mineral, slightly marine-salty with a noticeable tones from cedar wood. Later on vanilla and benzoin amplify the amber accord adding it more depth and weight. They add a creamy and slightly gourmand feeling to the composition of Ambre Muscadin. The notes of amber, musk, honey, entwine with each other creating a harmony of aromas. This perfume is potent and it never overpowers despite having such powerful ingredients. In the drydown of this LM Parfums creation I detect some woody aroma (vetiver) combined with sheer beauty of flowers (violets). I also get a hint of suede. Ambre Muscadin is a great perfume. Lasts for quite long and has a decent sillage that becomes more intimate after some time. Ideal for a cold weather.

Gold Rush by A Dozen Roses is an interesting perfume, a marriage of floral and gourmand flavors. First of all it starts with a refreshing orange blossom that has a really nice aroma. It lasts for around 20 minutes and then a sheer, watered-down and pink rose joins the composition to give it a proper dose of femininity. At 45 minutes mark I started to notice the creamy accord of ylang-ylang that was slowly evolving into a sweet’n’spicy mix of mexican chocolate. There’s a lot of pleasant milkiness in Gold Rush. The choco accord is really well made here. Then a forest fruit accord appears on my skin. Blackberries join the chocolate note and the desert is almost ready. Just add a little bit of woody elements, sprinkles of ebony and finish everything with a pinch of spices. Et voila! As much as I generally don’t like gourmand scents Gold Rush is quite acceptable thanks to the addition of woods and spices. Still, I wouldn’t wear it because I find it too feminine.

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Monday Quick Sniffs, part 11

Fragrances from this session of Monday Quick Sniffs are my new arrivals. I got them is a perfume samples swap we arranged with Undina of Undina’s Looking Glass in late February this year. Thank you dear for this chance of smellies exchange. It was fun to wait for the package and try new things.

Bond No. 9 released I ♥ New York for Him in September 2011 and it marked 10 years since New York’s September 11 tragedy. I ♥ New York for Him is classified as aromatic fougere fragrance and contains notes of grapefruit, juniper berries, ginger, lavender, geranium, patchouli, leather, amber, musk, sandalwood and labdanum. All fragrances in I Love New York collection were developed by IFF. In the opening this fragrance smells of tart and bitter grapefruit and very shortly I ♥ New York for Him develops green and fresh crispiness of geranium. Patchouli brings more masculine character to the scent and ginger make it more spicy and fizzy. I don’t notice much sandalwood (is that the base?) but I get some juniper berries and hints of herbal lavender. I don’t get leather or labdanum at all. Some musk and amber? Maybe. The scent is nice and interesting, it has moderate projection and longevity. What I don’t like about this Bond No. 9 is that it smells quite artificial.

To celebrate 100th anniversary of L’Heure Bleue perfumer Thierry Wasser of Guerlain decided to craft a modern interpretation of this masterpiece – he called it L’Heure de Nuit (Night Hour). This perfume is like L’Heure Bleue minus retro, old-fashioned plush feeling and minus some of the almost make-up like powderness. In result we got the fragrance that smells of heliotrope which is almost like an almond praline. Orange blossom is very beautiful here. Clean, slightly soapy and sheer. Musk is rather creamy with a floral twist from jasmine. Iris and rose of L’Heure de Nuit are very similar to L’Heure Bleue but they’re much lighter and more airy. Guerlain L’Heure de Nuit sparkles like bubbles in champagne. It’s a happy scent that is an interesting alternative for those who want to experience more outgoing and cheerful version of the Guerlain classic. It lasts long and has a nice sillage. For me it’s nice but not better than L’Heure Bleue. L’Heure de Nuit has something laundry-like in it – you may not like this feeling.

Thanks to Undina I had a chance to experience fragrances from A Dozen Roses for the first time. One that smells particularly interesting and funny for me, has a poetic name of Shakespeare in Love. Right after spraying it smells of delicate roses with a light tea background sensation. The airy smell of red petals interlaces with clear gardenia note. After few minutes Shakespeare in Love bursts with happiness. Fruity aroma of pear appears and it carries really happy and uplifting vibe. This scent will carry your straight into a good mood. In the middle of this fruity smell jasmine shines from time to time. In the drydown (and it comes quite quickly) Shakespeare in Love effuses some smooth woodsy molecules, without sharp edges or splinters. Vanilla adds a final touch to the scent. It’s sprinkled all over the woody accord. It smells slightly sweet with a dessert vibe to it. The scent is very nice despite the fact that it doesn’t project much in a day course. But it lasts for several hours. And it’s bottle looks glamour with this picture of rose on its front. Like a little piece of art, isn’t it?

PS. Did you notice all three of perfume above are connected by a blue theme? That wasn’t planned!

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