Tag Archives: Alberto Morillas

Stained with Darkness, Kilian Dark Lord

I don’t know how to explained it but I always had this sort of liking for bad characters in movies, books or games. Even though they basically always lose against main protagonists I wasn’t able to feel negative emotions towards these shady characters. Perhaps this is a reason why I decided to try a newest release from Kilian, whose name – Dark Lord, sounds like a title of a mischievous person dressed in black, wearing a cape and a mask. But does the fragrance match with this picture?

kilian-skull

Dark Lord begins with a dash of vibrant piquancy coming from two kinds of pepper – Sichuan and Bourbon one. The perfume has a grainy texture, exuding an overall feeling of warm spiciness. There’s no pungency in there but I get an impression of a red hot metal underneath the top layer of spices. After a moment a few drops of bergamot oil are splashed on top of the peppercorns, introducing a nice zing to the scent. Its tanginess accentuates the spicy feeling even more. But… there’s a tad of zesty freshness because of it as well. It’s more masculine in style.

Heart of the composition hides a lot of davana which gives me the impression of something dry, peppery and at the same time it reminds me of immortelle accord. When rum appears in Kilian Dark Lord the perfume immediately becomes more liquory. It gains a boozy kind of sweetness that brings to mind a sugar cane syrup. Thanks to this alcoholic facet the perfume becomes more luminous and bright. Sambac jasmine is a contrasting ingredient here as floral vibe it diffuses is not very strong but it feels more nocturnal in perception. In this perfume jasmine is washed off it’s narcotic richness.

dark lord

In the core of this fragrance I discovered a leathery tone. It feels black and luxurious – at first like interior of a vintage care but after a few minutes it’s actually more like inside of an expensive bag. It’s infused with cypriol which adds more darkness and depth. Woody note of cedar along with vetiver of a more rooty variety together add a little bit more heft to Dark Lord but at any point the perfume doesn’t really feel heavy. Additional notes include patchouli, this one adds earthiness to the blend.

To be honest with you Dark Lord by Kilian doesn’t smell original to me. Actually it smells a lot like a niche cousin of Gucci Guilty Pour Homme Absolute¬†which is not that much of a surprise once you know that both were composed by perfumer Alberto Morillas. But Gucci came one year before. Refering to its name, this Kilian offering is not overly dark and I could easily name a couple of fragrances that evoke noir feeling much better than this perfume here. Money saved I guess.

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One day in Sicily, Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa

Those of you who have been following my blog for at least 2-3 months probably managed to notice that I have a soft spot for Italian perfumery. But this is not only about the perfume art in Italy. I really like the way people live there, their attitude, their big family meals, gelatos and of course the the essence of Italian fashion. The house of Acqua di Parma really fits the bill when it comes to Italian elegance and sophistication in fragrance and accesories. Established in 1916 this small brand grew into an iconic name. Many celebrities from Europe and US use products from their offer.

Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa immediately bursts with a generous dose of extra juicy citrus blend. It’s very lively, vigorous and energetic mix that will offer you some of its energy in no time. This mix is composed most likely of grapefruits, oranges, tangerines and lemons; pulp and rinds. 15 minutes later the explosion of citrus fruit becomes a little bit more edgy and aromatic thanks to the bergamot and its green peel which has a nice and zesty smell. This fragrance is like a wake up.

A while later the composition becomes more spicy. A nice dose of cardamom, which despite the fact it belongs to the ‘cold spice’ category, it adds some warmth and gentle spiciness to the composition. The creators paired it with ginger which adds more prominence to the spicy accord. It also brings some sparkling fizziness like in a ginger ale. It also adds some freshness to Colonia Intensa. Leather is the aroma that appears next and it enters around the end of 1st hour. It has a little bit pungency at first but generally speaking it could be described as stylish and elegant. Its full-bodied aroma is substantial but also gentle and not overwhelming.

After some time you can smell a beautiful neroli note. It’s a bit cold, giving you a chill going along your spine. It’s fresh and effervescent, at the same time there is something soapy about it that gives you an impression of absolute cleanliness. To be honest the contrast between the soapy neroli and a bit dirtier leather is very intriguing and it smells so good! One of the key-role notes in Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa is the benzoin resin. It adds much more density, structure and depth to this vibrant composition of citrus and spices. Benzoin in this perfume smells a tad creamy, balsamic and warm. I also get a feeling like it has some sort of caramely undertone which makes me think of traditional Polish fudge which is probably one of the yummiest sweets from Poland.

Later on Colonia Intensa becomes more of a woody composition. We have a lot of cedar here which is dry and earthy (no sweat!), some addition of guaiac wood for more structure and a bit darker flavor. There is also artemisia that adds some herbal, slightly medicinal and green tones as well. The drydown makes a focus on balsamic myrrh combined with the earthy and woody scent of patchouli. All this is placed on a musky base which adds a finishing touch of surprising freshness. This is the kind of fragrance that will make you feel pampered each time you wear it.

Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa is a beautiful composition of truly Italian roots. The blend of energetic citrus, spices and woods is very classy and quite timeless I think. The composition veers a little bit towards masculine but woman should have no problem with borrowing this perfume from their men. The sillage of this perfume is rather average and it goes low after 1,5 hours. The longevity isn’t outstanding – on me it was 4-6 hours of a rather faint aroma. Despite that I think that it’s a great perfume. Colonia Intensa was launched in 2007 and it’s a follow-up of Colonia from 1916. Created by Alberto Morillas and Francois Demachy (now in Dior division).

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