Tag Archives: Alienor Massenet

Flaming Dancers, Memo Argentina

When I was a school boy and when I started getting more plump my parents signed me up for dance classes hoping that this extra exercise through dancing will help to keep my weight under control. By coincidence my best friend at a time, a classmate, became my dance partner. Over a couple of years of attending these classes I learned waltz, cha-cha, rumba and more but to these days I find it difficult to just freestyle when the music plays. I didn’t dislike these classes but today I prefer to watch. I thought that a move “Shall We Dance” was absolutely great & funny, with a lot of dance passion. New one from Memo is meant to make you feel the fire of tango. Ready to dance?

Soft tingle of pink pepper is the first chord we smell & hear when Memo Argentina starts to play. It surrounds the wearer with warmth and with a very gentle, sensual spiciness. Even though technically it’s not a pepper I prefer it to the black pepper which to me is often too harsh, metallic and cuisine-driven. With pink pepper things are more balanced and simply more pretty. Rose, which is the main performer of this fragrance makes an entrance after a few short minutes. Her dress, colored crimson red, has the same shade as rose petals used in this perfume. The material it’s made of is fluid, moving with every step she takes, highlighting the shape of her irresistible silhouette.

The smell of roses in Argentina is very potent, rich and vibrant. The intensity that emanates from the skin instantly makes me think of big flowers with petals that are like a very dark red velvet. This Turkish rose is hypnotising thanks to its beauty and it fascinates the nose just like watching a pair of tango dancers fascinates the eyes when you observe how their bodies get perfectly synchronized, as if in a trance. After some time the rose note becomes more oriental and it also reveals some greener, geranium-like nuances. But the intricate bouquet continues to blossom. Two kinds of jasmine were used here and while I smell their presence to me they only let the rose stand out.

The pace of this dance gradually changes and you can almost feel how every half an hour allows Memo Argentina to soak up the oriental aura. The main highlight of this process is the reveal of oud at some point. I know some of you might roll their eyes reading this but please believe me that in this perfume it’s something out of ordinary. I find oud in this new fragrance to be very toned down & quite resinous, viscous. It definitely improves the perception of the crimson red color of rose petals and these two ingredients are simply meant to be together as they unfold a multidimensional word full of beautiful impressions. I quickly though of this perfume that it’s stunning and worth telling you about.

But it’s not done yet & something’s happening after a couple of hours of inhaling the swooning vapors of Argentina. Rose and oud is already a wonderful combination but at a later point in fragrance development this new creation developed a brand new quality, some lightness & transparency entered this tiny perfume universe. Imagine magnolia sharing some of its silky tenderness with a hint of something lemony. That’s exactly what happens! The perfume becomes brighter, more magical. It doesn’t last long but leaves a lasting impression. Then the scent densifies again as verdant-oily cypriol & caramel-like benzoin carry on with the rose until its bath time.

Argentina, a newest creation of perfumer Alienor Massenet that will join Memo Art Land collection is an example of true fragrance craftsmanship that deserves to be praised. Not many compositions are able to wow me like that at first sampling attempt. Not only is it complex but I also find it to be full of contrasts. In Memo Argentina you can find energy, burning passion, fierceness, but also some innocence and tenderness. Like a clash opposite forces, like hot and cold. And the result is worth trying this new release. Argentina is available in EdP concentration, in 75 ml bottles that feature a gorgeous graphic of two birds ‘dancing’ in mid air & one of them is holding a rose. So pretty!

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Submarine Realm, Memo Ocean Leather

Those of us who have already spent some years in the world of perfume (and many of you have this hobby way longer than me) know that there are raw materials that simply go well with one another. Thanks to science the perfumer palette becomes broader year after year, yet still noses willingly utilize these well-known duets, like oud-rose, amber-vanilla, lemon-mint, violet-mimosa. We all got used to these pairings, that’s why a spark of interest appears when a brand tries something new. Cuirs Nomades line from Memo¬†just got a new member. Marine accord and leather? Will it work?

In the opening of Ocean Leather mandarin is the one that comes first to the front, bringing a happy juicy vibe that makes my mouth water in no time. Its scent combines citrus juice and bits of the orange flesh, with additional whisper of aromatic aspect of the peel. So far the perfume doesn’t evoke anything marine but that is about to change. Couple of minutes later sage joins the composition and when it starts to effuse its herbaceous aroma with hints of iodine and a slightly sweaty impression, we are already getting few steps closer to the big water & its mysteries.

Aromatic scent of vetiver, slightly woody, a bit hay-like through its dry & grassy facet gives me the impression as if I was smelling an old rope that’s been on a boat that saw coutless marine adventures over the decades. There’s a saline aspect to it that makes Ocean Leather¬†way more interesting in my eyes (in my nose?) Later on elemi joins, which adds something green to the perfume on one hand and balmy-waxy on the other hand. Its resinous, slightly incensy smell blends well with the freshness of mandarin and ocean-dipped sage and vetiver. We keep on sailing.

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Basil essence gives Ocean Leather more of a green & herbal tinge but it doesn’t smell like a summer garden at all. Instead it seems that other elements of the fragrance help the preferred aromatics to come out with higher priority. Even though these molecules are green there’s something raspy about them. Smelling this part makes me think of green algae floating on top of the wavy ocean surface. The waves are being beaten up as they hit the shore, naturally forming a foam. At this point of development a faint scent of violet – watery, crisp & floral, reaches my nostrils.

Drydown of this newest addition to the Memo leathers series brings a lot of tranquility & peace. Leather accord finally emerges and while it feels dense and substantial, it is and at the same time it isn’t powerful. It surely isn’t as prominent as in previous positions in the collection. In Ocean Leather this accord feels a bit stiff, a bit cracked – like a sailor’s jacket that has been damaged by a salty water. The perfume seamlessly transitions to a cedarwood note – a smell of wooden boat deck, permeated with the smell of ocean and wax. A hint of nutmeg when its dry. It’s an endless water.

When I first heard that Memo is going to release Ocean Leather I was a bit confused, wondering how leather and marine accord – two different worlds on the first thought, could go together in same fragrance. The result is unexpected – the perfume is not difficult in perception if you ask me, it’s difficult to describe or fit in the frames of one specific olfactive family. Perfumer Alienor Massenet created a scent that perfectly marries these ‘opposite forces’, giving us an exciting thing to smell, given you enjoy leathery and marine notes when they’re separated. Ocean Leather 75 ml bottle has a label-plate that features a big white whale, a perfect representation of this eau de parfum.

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