Tag Archives: Alienor Massenet

Dragon Breath, Memo Winter Palace

If, like me, you’re a fan of fantasy novels filled with magic and mystical creatures, there’s a high chance that you’ve already met more than one dragon hiding between the inked pages of a book. Some were small, some big, some were fierce & dangerous while others were friendly and helpful. But dragons are also essential part of Chinese folklore which started way before any fantastic story was written. I wonder if they really existed. Inspired by China, dragons and spring Memo Paris tells their own tale of a dragon and its flight of freedom. A scent in which ice meets fire.

Memo Winter Palace unveils like the first rays of the summer morning. The composition opens with a delicious scent of sweet orange and it instantly triggers some drooling as well. It’s an optimistic & realistic aroma that within couple of minutes becomes more saturated and rich. It even develops an oily facet that makes you think of smelling orange essential oil in a pure state. After a while the sweetness is suppressed by bergamot. The latter one is responsible for introducing more tangy sensation to the scent and this actually makes it even more delicious and refreshing.

This citrus symphony in the opening does not end with just orange and bergamot playing on the skin. Later on grapefruit accord surfaces. When that happens Winter Palace becomes slightly bitter. In addition to that there’s a new fruity-powdery sensation coming from white albedo part of the citrus. There was also a short moment when grapefruit was slightly sweaty but it was a quickly vanishing impression that I didn’t find bothersome. Generally speaking all of these notes so far were very energetic and playful. As a new day wakes up when the sun rises, this perfume will wake you up too.


After around an hour, sometimes earlier, sometimes later depending on the weather conditions, Winter Palace starts to change its form. Until now it was a rather chilly fragrance with a cooling effect. However there comes a moment when it gradually becomes warmer. Exactly like summer morning, when it’s still cold but you know that in a couple of hours it will be delightfully warm. That’s exactly what happens when red tea accord joins the composition. It spreads a pleasantly warm and fragrant aura around the wearer. It smells like a steaming cup of your favorite rooibos tea.

Its warm & homely scent is mixed with mate tea which makes it taste slightly more tart and characteristic. At the base of Memo Winter Palace there’s a solid base. Resinous benzoin entwines with more smoky labdanum. Caramelized-like styrax plays with rich, oriental vanilla and they both improve each other’s scent. Tolu balsam is ‘flavored’ with buttery-aromatic tonka and highlights some of the musky tones. Despite of so many powerful ingredients they are beautifully woven into the fragrance. It’s a masterful finale with a perfect balance as none of these lead the way.

Winter Palace by Memo¬†is a fragrance that I wanted to try since I read about it and I absolutely wasn’t disappointed after wearing it. It’s an interesting perfume of contrast between cold and warm elements. Perfumer Alienor Massenet managed to compose something that feels summery but at the same time could easily work during other seasons as well. My favorite part was when red tea accord emerged. Winter Palace eau de parfum joins Art Land Collection and is available in 75 ml bottle featuring a beautiful chinese dragon graphic. A majestic creature for a majestic perfume.

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Colors of the Wind, Memo Morrocan Leather

I have never been to Morocco but it’s definitely one of the countries from my to-visit list. Actually my parents went there for holidays this year & they absolutely loved it. Morocco is also one of those places that are relatively close to most European countries and that serves as a ‘gate’ to a whole new world. Different culture, cuisine, architecture. Not that I am a connoisseur of the latter but even I was familiar with traditional moroccan tiles, mosaics and arabesques. Latest addition to the Cuirs Nomades collection from Memo Paris explores Morocco vivid colors & intricate patterns.

Experiencing Morrocan Leather for the first time is like running head-on towards a wall of galbanum & there’s no way it would break once you hit it. Green molecules are absolutely overwhelming to the point of inducing some ofactive dizziness. I would describe this smell as sappy, heady and narcotic. On one hand it makes me think of snapped twigs only to evoke green vines of a tropical forest on the other hand. There’s also something humid to the galbanum note and the way it’s been presented. It takes some time but the verdancy finally subsides (not completely), giving way to a note of ginger.

Appearance of a new olfactive stimulus offers a new angle to look at this fragrance from a different perspective. Ginger in Morrocan Leather isn’t as lemony as it could but it still has its usual effervescence that brings more life to this perfume. At the same time it’s worth mentioning that to my nose it’s a bit dry & due to that its spiciness feels kind of prickly, if I may say so. As a back note we have a hint of tangy mandarin and some orange blossom. The latter one smells as if its fresh aspect was abandoned and only heavier – more oily and saturated molecules made it into the bottle.

Overall feeling of spiciness lasts and lasts, changing its shape several times yet still maintaining an equilibrium of green galbanum and tingling spices. Heart of Memo Moroccan Leather steps in after 2-3 hours. It’s easy to notice because the perfume moves away from the verdant in its large part in order to let the flower fully bloom. Ylang-ylang takes the lead, effusing the solar smell reminiscent of jasmine but which is definitely more creamy & lactonic, evoking a tropical paradise through its warmth and sensual aura. Beforehand the perfume felt close, hermetic; now it’s opening up.


Coming up next we have my favorite part of Morrocan Leather – the iris. Present in the composition in an exquisite form of a butter, it elevates the scent, giving it a new quality. Through its buttery facets the perfume feels as if it was melting on your skin, hugging it with the most embracing, luxurious fragrance. I can detect elements of earthy and rooty iris goodness entwined with silky floral nuances and a hint of chocolate-y sweetness. And all together they smell balsamic on skin. As hours pass a powdery impression appears on skin and leads the way towards the accords of the base.

Viscous like an ointment, cypress revives a green impression that links top and base of Moroccan Leather. Leather itself is somewhere in between raw and untreated & pret-a-porter. It has some dusty, powdery fuziness but also a sulphuric vibe of a workshop. To me it smells like inside of a new leather bag. Styrax together with ambrox react on skin giving off a warm, balsamic and almost incensy cloud. Vetiver is like a seam that holds everything together while musk – dusty, decadent and slightly animalic results in a sultry, seductive waft. There’s also tonka for that aromatic volume.

While preparing a review of Memo Moroccan Leather I realized that it reminds me of another perfume from the same brand, namely Italian Leather. Both of these fumes exert green notes that later reveal leather and iris. But where Italian Leather was more crisp and had that dolce effect, Moroccan Leather was more balmy. The latter one is also greener in general. Like any other Memo Paris fragrance, Moroccan Leather was also composed by perfumer Alienor Massenet. A 75 ml bottle of this eau de parfum is adorned with flying hawk & moroccan geometric pattern.

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