Tag Archives: Andy Tauer

Blooming inspirations of Pitti Fragranze 2017 – part 1

My summer holiday in Italy this year was a fantastic experience. For a really long time I had no idea where to spend my vacations so I’m happy that thanks to some research and tips found by my mom I planned such a great trip. I finally saw more of Milan, tasted a little bit of dolce vita during my stay at Lake Como & enjoyed my short stays in Genoa and Pisa. But most anticipated part of my Italian voyage was going to Florence for another edition of Pitti Fragranze. It was a true cherry on top.

I arrived early in the afternoon on Thursday, a little bit more than half a day before the show was starting. On the occasion of lovely weather I went for a walk to revisit popular Florentine places, such as Duomo Santa Maria del Fiore, Ponte Vecchio or Basilica di Santa Maria Novella. This time I also went to a famous Santa Maria Novella apothecary & shop. It’s a beautiful place. I bought a bottle of SMN Citta di Kyoto, a gentle cologne combining iris with lotus flower.

As I was getting hungry I tried to ask my friends if any of them was already in Florence and wanted to eat something together. But it turned out that they either had different plans, didn’t arrive yet or were simply not interested in joining me. Just when I was ready to give up and just sit by myself and eat, I was passing next to a restaurant when I was spotted by Andy Tauer. What a coincidence! I joined him at the table for Aperol Spritz and a dish of pasta. We had a nice chat. We also met Sarah McCartney and Olivier Valverde. Florence was clearly being taken over by perfume people.

Next day the Pitti Fragranze fair was starting at 10 AM. I went there a little bit earlier but thanks to using Pitti App on my phone I didn’t have to wait for a paper press pass & was able to enter as one of the first. First round in Stazione Leopolda is usually greeting with all friends. First hour passed quickly and at 11 AM I attended a Mane conference of the RAW project. This time they focused on spices in perfumery, especially on pepper & sustainability of their resources. But before that I had a chance to chat to Olivier Durbano, who presented Labradorite, his perfume #13. It’s a smoked tuberose with some not overdone animalics. I also met Nicolas Chabot, a guy behind Le Galion and Aether. At his stand I smelled new Aether Celluloid, a fantastic iris with cashmeran.

When the clock was showing it’s almost 1 PM I went out for a planned meeting with Puredistance. The brand wasn’t attending Pitti this year but Mary Gooding and Nele Tammiste were in Florence to meet with some people. We went out for a lunch together. We decided to snack at a nearby cafe bar and it was the best decision. Each of us had a great piece of foccachia with tomato sauce and melted cheese, plus we had 3 different sweet treats. Puredistance is preparing for a global launch of Warszawa right now. I enjoyed meeting with them and seeing new graphics they made.

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Further explorations brough me to Andy Tauer. We laughed again because of our accidental meeting on previous evening. He has shown his new Tauerville Patch Flash to me which is pretty unusual and not very patchouli take on this note. There was also AT Attar in Tauer Perfumes collection. Andy outdid himself with the packaging. A 5ml attar is packed in a miniature pentagonal flacon made of blue glass. So cute! I also had a chance to smell his soaps. Loved mandarin one.

Gabriella Chieffo stand was eye-catching for another year in a row. Using metal fence, polyurethane foam and paint her team created an installation that was bringing clouds to one’s mind. A well thought background to present Quasicielo (‘almost heaven’) a lovely composition of tart citrus top notes with spicy, aromatic heart and warm, resinous base. At the end of the fair I concluded it was one of my favorite fragrances this Pitti. It’s not a perfect fragrance but it doesn’t have to be. It’s first perfume made entirely by Gabriella. Previously she had lots of help from Luca Maffei.

Sarah McCartney stand was nearby so I was offered a full presentation of Our Modern Lives, a new project next to 4160 Tuesdays. There are 7 natural fragrances inspired by yoga and different moods of the day, plus 2 synthetics that are free from allergens. You can mix & match, layer them. The idea is to select one natural and one synthetic and blend them. Body sprays with 3% fragrance (see photo) were quite nice already, but 10% EdP are also available. What is very attractive about OML are the labels, featuring gorgeous drawings of plants and herbs that match ingredients.

At a combined booth of Eau d’Italie and Altaia I was able to smell 2 novelties – one for each of these two brands owned by Marina Sersale and Sebastian Alvarez Murena. For Eau d’Italie they presented Rosa Greta. Inspired by a person of Greta Garbo and her love affair, the perfume is a delicate, feminine and innocent floral bouquet with dominant rose note. Altaia presented Tuberose in Blue, a gentle white floral, tuberose for non tuberose lovers as I called it after blotter test.

Among new faces that arrived at 2017 edition of Pitti Fragranze I noticed a familiar face from before. Barbara Herman was attending the fair. It was actually my first contact with her brand – Eris Parfums. I liked the idea of her initial fragrance trio, trying to create modern versions of big vintage perfumes. I especially liked Night Flower, which was inspired by Guerlain Shalimar. On the other hand the new release, called Mx. defies gender segregation. On my skin it smelled of super creamy sandalwood with a coconut tinge. It seemed popular, many people were buzzing about it.

That’s it for a round-up of 1st day at Pitti Fragranze. When you attend it for a few years there comes a moment when you realize that year by year you smell less perfume and you spend more time talking to people. We gradually become closer friends so it wouldn’t feel right to cut out the conversation after a few minutes. Yet I think I did my best and tried a decent number of new releases, especially on 2nd day of the show. More of Pitti report coming soon! Stay tuned!

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Lemon supernova, Tauer Perfumes L’Eau

Andy Tauer is a great guy but you’ve probably already known that. As a person who learned on his own how to make perfume and who earned so much recognition and love among fragrance enthusiasts definitely could be considered a role model for anyone who has aspirations to start creating and to become a part of this world. But in all that Andy is a regular person like we all are. There are perfumers that would make you feel intimidated when you talk to them, but not Andy. Talking to him is like a chat with a friend who happens to have a big knowledge of the industry.

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A short while ago Andy presented L’Eau, a new cologne-themed fragrance for his Tauer Perfumes collection. It is actually his 3rd attempt to focus on citrus notes after Orange Star and limited edition Cologne du Maghreb. So how does it smell? L’Eau has somewhat astringent citrus opening. It starts off on more chilly side with a prominent and intensive lemon note that is followed by juicy tang of bergamot. Slightly sour at first it becomes more sugary because of sweet orange chord. The latter one kind of smells like candied peel. Lemon is especially lingering on my skin.

15 minutes later the perfume starts to shift & it starts to go in unexpected direction. On my wrist L’Eau develops into a smell of talcum powder with a lemon scent to it. It feels clean but not soapy (although it reminds soap a bit) and because of that chalky, powdery aspect the perfume gets dangerously close to a territory occupied by laundry detergent. I’m not sure if I want to go that way & I was happy when Andy’s new scent started to shift the other way. I wonder if this effect was achieved through the use of lemon blossom? Or maybe an iris flower? (I thought it doesn’t smell)

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All these notes are placed on top of a soft base built around the idea of sheer muskiness, of something that wears comfortably on the skin and feels almost like a natural scent of the skin. There’s also a layer of pale woods that add some heft to Tauer Perfumes L’Eau but they do not stand out in a drastic way. There’s also a touch of warm, ambery vibe sprinkled on top. Throughout the entire development process it remains clean. Andy described it as unisex scent – and that’s exactly what it is. Sillage and lasting power of this eau de parfum are fine. It’s available in 50 ml blue glass pentagonal bottle that houses most of Andy’s creations.

I definitely recommend giving L’Eau a try, although it’s less cologne-y than I would like. It’s a modern interpretation for sure – even with lemon, bergamot and sweet orange it has a twist that takes it farther away from a classic cologne. If it doesn’t bother you there’s a chance that you’ll love L’Eau. But if you’re looking for a truly juicy, sparkling and invigorating thing, you might need to opt for something else. Personally I neither love or hate this Tauer Perfumes offering. I really value the experience and more off-road approach to the topic, I just prefer my citrus in a classic way.

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