Tag Archives: Ann Gerard

Thorns that don’t cut, Ann Gerard Rose Cut

French jeweller Ann Gerard introduced her perfume line to the niche market in 2012 with three creations: Ciel d’Opale and Perle de Mousse, which are eau de parfums and Cuir de Nacre which was created in an extrait concentration. The line was very succesful and one of the reasons for that must be that fragrances were created by Bertrand Duchaufour, Ann’s close friend for 15 years. This spring Ann Gerard launched her fourth fragrance focused on the beautiful flower, rose.Rose Cut, for that’s the name of the new fragrance is referring to the jewellery art. Rose cut is a very old and beautiful style of cutting gemstones. Main features of it are a flat base and a crown that is composed of 12 or 24 triangular facets which rise forming a point, reminding of a rose bud. You can see an example here. This very cut was in use since the middle of 16th century but it’s not that popular anymore. It occurs mostly in antique pieces but demand for this technique is growing again.

As soon as the tiniest smear of Rose Cut is applied to your skin you can smell the rum accord almost instantly. It’s prominent and boozy but also incredibly warm. You can notice some alcohol and quite a lot of sugarcane and brown sugar which adds a specific flavour to rum drinks. There’s also something luminous, tender and a bit syrupy-sweet about this accord. When aldehydic tones appear Rose Cut becomes colder. The composition becomes more chilly with the transparent metallic vibe given by aldehydes. This accord also gives a fizzy, sparkling sensation causing this new Ann Gerard perfume to remind me of some high price champagne.

Pink pepper that appears at the mark of 30 minutes after applying this fragrance to your skin adds a nice, balanced dose of pleasant piquancy, warming up the blend and making it more lively and vibrant. The opening stage of Rose Cut is quite bold and its presence around the wearer is something that you rather won’t miss. Rum accord is especially noticeable, giving you a feeling of comfort and safety. Notes of rum, aldehydes and pink pepper evolve one into another in a harmonious and seamless way. There are no sharp edges so far in this new perfume.

True rose accord appears around after 3 quarters of wearing Ann Gerard Rose Cut. It starts very fresh and crispy, like there was some geranium or a little hint of mint in the background. There’s definitely something slightly herbal about this note, however this impression doesn’t last long. Come to think of it maybe it was the peony that adds all these qualities to the main star of this composition. Soon enough the rose note becomes darker, more velvety and seductive.

When rose begins to dominate in the bouquet of Rose Cut, and that happens around 1,5 hours, I could notice that it’s not only quite a powerful flower here, but there is also something warm and spicy and woody about it. There’s a patchouli note which adds more density and dimension to this fragrance, as well as it makes it darker, but never shadowy or nocturnal. The rose note lasts surprisingly long, mixing with patchouli, pepper and rum for the next 2-3 hours. And this combination really makes me think of champagne rose. It’s bubbly, outgoing, sophisticated and elegant too.

The drydown of Rose Cut is exquisite. Oakmoss (or oakwood absolute as stated in the booklet introducing Rose Cut) introduces the dry, slightly woody and a bit powdery vibe that is truly charming. That is the kind of chypre interpretation that I like above any other. Addition of vanilla makes this part of a fragrance more delicate and sweet, while benzoin is responsible for adding density. It effuses a balmy aroma that is not too heavy and it couples with the other notes in a great way. Rose is still a diva here, she’s the queen of the perfume blend.

Just like the previous 3 scents, Rose Cut is a collaboration between Ann Gerard and Bertrand Duchaufour. I have zero knowledge when it comes to jewellery but I think I can recognize a good quality rose. Among the rose perfumes introduced at Esxence, and there were quite a lot of them this year, Rose Cut was one of the finest roses in my personal top list. This fragrance is a rose in full bloom, it is also a full-bodied one… And also with some thorns, but they don’t cut!Ann Gerard Rose Cut is a fragrance concentrated at an eau de parfum level, Ann Gerard told me that the exact strength is 13% of fragrance composition. The juice, which has a vivid and deep ruby color was poured into line’s signature bottle. The capacity is 60ml (costs 125€) and it’s also available in a discovery set of four 7,5ml spray vials (retails for 62€). The longevity of Rose Cut is around 8-10 hours. The projection is very good for 3-4 hours and then it gradually drops to become a skinscent in the end. After Esxence I want to buy a single bottle of perfume that made a lasting impression on me – this might be it!

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Winter Holiday shopping guide – travel size scents

As the Christmas season is approaching I start to think about the perfect presents I would like to gift to my family and friends. So I decided to write a series of articles about Winter Holiday shopping which I hope will help you in deciding on a present for your dearest ones. Check here for scented candles suggestions that might be worth considering as a Christmas surprise for a candle lover. Today I’d like to suggest a couple of fragrances in travel-friendly sizes, perfect to carry with you.

A perfect and luxurious, travel-friendly perfume gift is a Discovery Set from Neela Vermeire Creations. The set consist of a 10ml bottle of a truly oriental & spicy Trayee, 10ml of deliciously fruity and playful Bombay Bling, which is a really sassy composition and a 10ml flacon of rich and opulent rose that is Mohur. This lovely set is available through Neela Vermeire Creations e-boutique at a cost of 85€ for France and other EU countries, 90€ for Switzerland and the rest of the world.

From one of my favorite houses – Carner Barcelona you can purchase a friendly voyage set. It’s created with two 15ml glass flacons of Tardes and Rima XI. Each of them comes with an atomiser and in fact those small bottles are designed to remind the actual flacons of Carner Barcelona line. Even their caps are made of genuine wood, just like in full-sized offerings. These two miniatures are packaged in a lovely white box with the logo of the brand and a silhouette of a plane. The expense for this set equals 75€. Possible to purchase at Carner Barcelona, First in Fragrance,

Due to Andy Tauer problems with shipping full bottles to many countries he came up with an idea of Explorer Set. This option doesn’t cause Andy any trouble in terms of delivery so that he can satisfy those that couldn’t get a pentagonal bottle because of the postal restrictions. Explorer Set gives you the opportunity to chose 3 scents from the Tauer Perfumes range (not all scents are available yet), each comes in a 15ml flacon with a sprayer and a metal cap. The additional treat is that Explorer Set is offered with a free shipping option. The total cost depends on the fragrances you pick, the prices vary from 34€ (46$) to 45€ (61$) for one travel spray. Available at Tauer Perfumes only.

French niche perfume brand Jul et Mad recently launched 5ml miniature versions of their three love-inspired perfumes: Stilettos on Lex, Amour de Palazzo & Terrasse a St-Germain. These miniatures are called Love Dose and they’re made of glass and are supposed to evoke the regular size flacons. Each of these little treasures is offered in a custom made box and lettering on the bottle is made with platinum. They don’t have an atomiser. 22,50€ for one, shipping fee included. They’re a great way to discover the creations before you splurge on a FB. Available at JUL ET MAD.

A jewellery maker Ann Gerard offers a coffret of miniatures of all three perfumes she created in collaboration with a famous perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour. With this set you’ll be getting 9ml bottles of Cuir de Nacree, Ciel d’Opale and Perle de Mousse for a lovely value of 48€ ($65) The unfortunate thing is that the mini flacons don’t have a sprayer and come in a splash, which can cause problems in carrying it in a bag or applying in a rush. Available at Jovoy Paris, Beautyhabit, Luckyscent.

[note] I’m not affiliated with any of mentioned brands or stockists. Links to their shops were put to allow you make a purchase without searching if something happened to be to your liking.

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