Tag Archives: Antoine Lie

Be who you want to be, Eris Parfums Mx.

For decades people have been divided into ‘artificial’ groups based on their behaviour, ethnicity, political views and others. Even perfume were separated for masculine and feminine ones. Release of CK One by Calvin Klein has broken this stereotype for ever. Nowadays, in the era of gender fluidity fragrances that can be shared are gaining popularity. But does it have to smell of citrus? The answer to that question comes from Barbara Herman and her brand. Eris Parfums decided to break a monotony of unisex citrus notes with a concoction of woods, spices and resins.

eris-mx

Mx. has a very mellow opening. Immediately after applying the perfume on my wrist a large scented cloud starts to spread around me. It carries a beautiful smell of sandalwood. As it accommodates on the skin, the perfume accepts its warmth and uses it as its own. Warm sandalwood chord is very inviting, cosy and it smells of safety. It takes 10 maybe 15 minutes until Mx. starts to get richer. It smells very creamy, like a woody pudding. It almost touches a buttery aspect of the creaminess. The aroma here is yummy, like a fluffy custard dusted with glittering powder of delightful woods.

A quarter later sandalwood becomes more quiet. At that time cedarwood comes to the front, making a woody fun of Mx. double. It does feel even more substantive than sandalwood but at the same time if feels more rough. Virginia cedar is not creamy or soft, it’s dry and with some splinters at the surface. Assisted by olibanum that blends in with the woodsy bits, the perfume gains a balsamic facet. It gets even warmer than at the beginning plus there’s something quite charming about the resinous smell of this new fragrance. The perfume keeps on changing slowly but steadily.

At the end of first hour Eris Parfums Mx. shows a spicy twist that was previously hidden underneath a mixture of sandalwood and cedarwood. So once these two get toned down and the funny impression of coconut that I got (sandalwood smelled like it for some time on my skin) subsides I start to smell some earthy patchouli with additional flavor of black pepper. The latter one is quite tingly and sparkling; metal is present at a tiny amount. Benzoin is a nice binder for all elements of this part of fragrance development. It’s balmy aroma has some lovely & enjoyable sweetness.

eris-mx-bottle

I find benzoin to be quite an important ingredient of Mx. as I think that beautifully connects all the elements of the fragrance, as if it was creating invisible Bridges between them. And of course its midly resinous, almost honey-like sweetness is awesome. After another hour has passed I noticed the grassy dryness of vetiver and a bit of citrusy ginger aroma. Additional hint of saffron brough more sensuality and carnal delicacy to it. The drydown smelled quite chocolatey on me yet I could still smell some benzoin and the creaminess of sandalwood was pretty much out there. Very nice and with a youthful touch!

Mx. wants to be undefined. Mr., Mrs., Ms. – it’s none of them and all of them at once. An actual unisex perfume for everyone who takes appeal of a scent over its gender or any other segregation. This new eau de parfum is a fourth position in Eris Parfums portfolio and just like all previous ones it was created by perfumer Antoine Lie. The bottle size is 50 ml. If you like creamy sandalwood scents or simply look for a good unisex that is not a citrus cologne, Mx. is a good candidate for your consideration. It has a nice, moderate sillage and it lasts for a big part of the day.

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Dumna elegancja, Puredistance Warszawa

Poland is probably a country with most intense history of all European nations. It’s been through 3 partitions that completely wiped it out of any map for 123 years. It suffered from World War 2. I’m Polish and history of my country is a part of who I am, even if I’m way too young to remember any of these events. Jan Vos came to the capital city of Poland years ago and was fascinated by both city and people – especially women. They were proud and elegant. Tough on the outside yet still very delicate and feminine on the inside. In Polish women Jan Vos saw a muse for a new fragrance.

To my nose Puredistance Warszawa opens quite transparently. There’s an ozonic smell of violet leaf that gradually gains on more fresh crispiness and verdancy. The smell is dewy, watery and it’s becoming more powdery after 10 minutes for that’s when I start to smell violet flower as well. First impression of this perfume is very misleading as it fully transforms in the next few minutes. There’s a little bit of grapefruit that provides some bitterness that leads to more vegetal and resinous green vibe of galbanum. From this point Warszawa becomes much more rich and complex being. It feels like a va va voom of the past.

Note of jasmine is huge in this perfume however it doesn’t overwhelm the nose with its presence. Thing worth mentioning is that it doesn’t smell indolic even in tiniest bit. It’s a lush bouquet of white flowers that could stand in a central place of a grand hall of a hotel or that could belong to a bride. There’s something glamorous about its fragrance. It’s deep and intoxicating in a positive way. After some time broom accord appears in Puredistance Warszawa. It’s an interesting flower as any time I experience it in a perfume, it gives it that specific vibe that is hard to describe, but I’ll try.

When broom arrives at the main scene the whole perfume seems to have its radiance lowered. As if someone decided that it’s too bright and it’s time to dim the lights. I quite like this as a certain mood is brought to the fragrance thanks to that. Like imaginary ball room where everyone hides their face behind a mask, where the lights are dimmed and voices are lowered. It adds some duskiness, some mystery and curiosity. Afterwards comes a moment when Warszawa gains more creamy & powdery facet thanks to iris. It smooth and elegant, like a silk glove on a woman’s delicate hand.

Iris lasts for quite long however its splendor doesn’t stay in the center of attention for long. Vetiver wins with its strength, starting to dissipate woody-smelling molecules with a rooty tone underneath. It partially blends with iris, the latter one makes vetiver less edgy and crude. Once Puredistance Warszawa reaches its drydown, it reveals a prominent patchouli note. It’s a combination of earthy, woody and musty elements. To me personally it gives the impression as if I was smelling oakmoss. There’s also a hint of styrax that provides a gentle sweetness that is tad resinous in style.

Puredistance Warszawa is a charming perfume crafted in an old school way. It feels restrained, somehow aristocratic. In my imagination an ideal ambassador of this perfume would be a +60 woman, mature but who aged with pride and grace, who refuses to throw away her femininity. She wears shoes with a little heel, a fur coat and a red lipstick. For this reason I didn’t feel as a suitable person to wear Warszawa, I’m too young to rock such retro glam beauty. It’s like a perfume homage to the generation of our grandmothers or grand-grandmothers. One spray of it can rewind time. Varsovian women of 60’s or 70’s could smell like this.

Puredistance launched Warszawa in collaboration not only with perfumer Antoine Lie but also with Missala family in Warsaw. For that reason Perfumeria Quality Missala that is a family business was given a full exclusivity for this perfume by Jan Ewoud Vos. Since late 2016 you could purchase it at one of their boutiques in Warsaw. Now, in November 2017 the perfume will be launched worldwide. Puredistance Warszawa is concentrated a 25% and it comes in three sizes: 17,5 ml, 60 ml and 100 ml. It’s adorned with royal green colored details. Longevity and sillage are above average.

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