Tag Archives: Antoine Lie

Mysteries of Orient, Puredistance Gold

At the current state of perfume world, where even niche seems to be making a step towards mass market, it is a real virtue to remain true to yourself. Every year more and more fragrances are being launched, the market is becoming oversaturated and everyone, niche or not, wants a decent piece from this cake. I am sceptical for any perfume house that feels the need to hurl 5-10-15 ‘novelties’ at the consumer. Even if more than one perfumer worked on them, I don’t think all can keep the same, good quality level. Some brands accustomed us to their slower tempo and high standards. That’s why it was a bit surprising that Puredistance announced one more perfume for 2019. It’s been 2 years since Jan Ewoud Vos had an idea for this fragrance. Today it is finally ready to be shown.

In spite of the fact that there are some citrus accords mentioned by the brand, such as green mandarin or bergamot, I don’t get much freshness at the top of the composition. Pink pepper is the one that appears almost immediately after Gold touches my skin. It’s an aromatic explosion of spiciness that fills the air around the wearer. It’s powerful and a bit pungent initially but it calms down after a minute or two. My nose finds this pink pepper note to be dry, cold & metallic and it seems to be vibrating and oscillating in a specific way that lets it go deep to the sinuses. It’s interesting and quite unique. Clove soon joins in, adding spiciness of a different kind, more dusty and warm. Normally I find both these spices to be rather prickly but here they have refined smoothness.

puredistance-gold

If you happen to be very focused while enjoying Puredistance Gold you might be able to detect a small herbal glimpse of rosemary or something zesty, reminiscent of citrus. On my skin however they play a secondary role and I didn’t focus on neither. After a while the scent of pepper & clove becomes rounder and rounder, slowly and seamlessly transitioning into something more resinous. When labdanum appears around me, the perfume becomes richer in a blink. It gets darker at the same time but that only reveals a mysterious shine that emanates from the aura spread by Gold. It’s like a lustre of an ink before it sinks into a paper page or like dimmed lights at the restaurant – they only add to the atmosphere of the place, making it more glamourous and intimate in a way.

Addition of cinnamon adds a pleasant tingling when you smell the perfume. Its spiciness is mild and warm, with a lot of sensuality to it. In many cases when I smell this ingredient in a perfume I’m more often reminded of a ground cinnamon rather than a stick. In case of this new fragrance it’s the same. Gold uses cinnamon in a powdery & dusty way. Thanks to a specific entourage created by other elements it does seem to have a delicate sparkle to it – like glittery particles that shimmer in the light. It’s an elegant shine – glamorous and alluring at once. In the background of the scent the floral tones of oriental jasmine mingle with a geranium accord in an unstoppable dance. The first one is more fatty, buttery instead of indolic while the latter is almost like a rose incognito, but more crisp.

For a few hours Puredistance Gold was sinking into the pores of my skin, making slow but steady movements. Every now and then my nose would catch a scented cloud floating around me and it would smell slightly different each time. Foundation of this fragrance is composed of a number of resins, which, just like building blocks, provide a solid base to the scent. On my skin myrrh makes that one step ahead first. I’m not fond of myrrh in general but in Gold it’s woven together with other essences in a pretty way. Nevertheless it marks its presence with a combination of sweet, salty, balmy and burnt nuances. Later on benzoin adds a gold and luscious, almost caramelized facet. Styrax for some reason adds sort of a grainy texture to the scent. It gets quite delicious.

gold-puredistance

Under the layers of balms lies a vanilla accord, waiting to be eventually discovered. It has a nice, moderate sweetness which does seem more dense than your average vanilla. Its character is more oriental, resiny – like a fully dried black pod glossy from the oil oozing from inside of it. Tonka bean makes the base smooth and creamy and even thought there’s a bit of castoreum that adds a tad of animalic vibe, Gold still feels very posh and refined. At this particular stage this new Puredistance feels plush and fluffy, like a fuzzy fleece blanket. Patchouli adds some aromatic qualities to the drydown with a bit of earthy elements. In my opinion it also accentuates the individuality of different layers and gives Gold a multi-dimensional effect. Vetiver completes this fragrance creation.

Gold by Puredistance is a masterfully composed perfume. It has an intricate & complex style yet it feels like you can fully understand it when you wear it. It’s a sensual fragrance with undeniable charm and a mysteriously seductive energy on the skin. This composition has the power but prefers to stimulate your senses in a soft & gentle way. Even though Puredistance Gold represents an oriental family, its aura is supple. To me it’s like an arabesque painting – the perfume is an invisible brush while your skin is the canvas. Vines of scent entwine your body and become one with it. Swirls of divine goodness. Perfumer Antoine Lie gave a real soul to the fruit of his work. Gold contains 36% of perfume oil and it’s available in usual formats of 17.5 ml, 60 ml and 100 ml.

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Whispers of the wind, Puredistance Aenotus

In the fast changing world of perfumery one can easily get unimpressed by a number and quality of new launches, especially after spending a couple of years as an industry insider. Some brands decide to take ‘more is more’ approach (more perfume – more money) by throwing at us one fragrance after another. I tend to avoid those brands and even if I try them, they mostly turn out to be boring & not worth my time. Seriously – will a 20th oud in the line make your heart beat faster? But then there is a bunch of perfume brands that offer something new to their fans only once every 1-2 years. Their work is consistent, high quality and way more memorable. They are like white crows of current fragrance era. That’s why I think that new Puredistance was worth the wait.

At the beginning of Aenotus lies a bounty of citrus fruit, a true treasure of the Mediterranean. Announced by a super realistic lemon note that you can not only smell with your nose but you can almost taste it in your mouth too. It gives off a lot of mouth-watering juiciness that blends together sweet, sour & bitter elements. Its smell is very rich and saturated for a citrus, almost oily. You can easily identify a whole fruit – zest, juice, pulp and albedo. For a little while lemon is the only introduction to the newest Puredistance creation but that changes after a couple of minutes.

aenotus

More colors and scents come to play and enrich this fresh opening of Aenotus. Orange introduces more tanginess to the composition while mandarin shares its joyful sweetness with us. Yuzu on the other hand is a source of delicate bitterness. When these various citric notes fill my nose with their delicious aromas I really feel as if I was transported to Greece or Italy. New Puredistance is filled with a lot of optimism and brightness. After some time all of the citrus notes fade and become more quiet, simultaneously revealing a background note that is slightly powdery but still related to citrus.

So far Puredistance Aenotus was dominated by yellow and orange hues but there comes the moment when it changes and some small patches of green start to emerge along with the appearance of Aenotus heart notes. With mint at the front line the fragrance develops an aromatic facet that combines with citrus opening with ease, giving birth to a completely new feeling of freshness. A freshness that this brand has never explored before. I also have an impression that a perfumer used some special kind of mint, like water mint, since its fragrance isn’t that strong.

Blackcurrant bud and petitgrain introduce even more verdancy to Aenotus. I especially like the warm & slightly woody effect of petitgrain that in my head goes well with the imagery of light filtering through tree crowns. This aromatic, slightly citrusy aura of latest Puredistance composition feels very tranquil, spacious & harmonious in my opinion. Every time I inhale a bit of Aenotus I have a feeling of blissful laziness pouring into my body. Fresh aspect of the perfume gradually disappears, those citric and green notes become more blurry, more distant – leading the way down to the base.

puredistance-aenotus

Aenotus has a really interesting olfactory foundation from which oakmoss attracts the most of my attention. Its kind of aromatic yet dusty scent gradually transitions into more dry profile of a shrub. This chypre element is very well-fitting in this perfume. There’s also a hint of spiciness to it that then becomes more woody-earthy. That would be the patchouli note. Finally newest Puredistance unfolds with musky notes that give this fragrance more sensuality and elegance. This note feels refined but at the same time there’s a bit of something wild, animalic and seductive to play with.

Aenotus by Puredistance is a beautiful fragrance. It’s composed to be completely different from the rest of the range but at the same time it perfectly fits in the line up, among Opardu, White, M and the others. I also wanted to share a personal remark – any time I would try Aenotus it reminded me of Dior Eau Sauvage from its good old days. New Puredistance release is like a classic cologne reimagined for 21st century. Modern & contemporary but echoes the past. At outstanding inclusion of 48% of fragrance oil perfumer Antoine Lie composed a perfume that combines fresh and sensual nuances but also wears very close to the skin. And I just don’t know if it’s good or bad thing. Puredistance Aenotus is a perfume extrait and is available in 17,5 ml, 60 ml and 100 ml bottles.

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