Fara by Antonio Alessandria is a perfume that was introduced during last Pitti Fragranze. The perfume opens with ultra zesty lemon and aromatic bergamot, making it very refreshing and mouth-watering. These citrus molecules also go deep inside your nose providing a gentle tinge of bitterness. Lime, which appears after a couple of minutes makes Fara more sour and still very delicious. Not much later peppermint joins the composition and when it does, the perfume mimics a just served glass of mojito. Fresh, sparkling and energetic. Heart of Fara is the unexpected blend. First there is a silky-floral magnolia note which is followed by cumin. The latter one provides a bit of dirtiness and some bodily odour impressions – but to me those were quite inoffensive. In the drydown the perfume effuses a cold scent of frankincense which smells as if it was taken straight from a church. It’s combined with cedarwood which provides more structure and which is a bit warmer than incense. Finally we have musky tones which makes the drydown more carnal. A truly unusual transformation.
J.U.S Parfums is a new brand which had its debut in 2018. The concept for the brand is to release fragrances that were once submitted for clients consideration but were discarded in the evaluation process. J.U.S wanted to give a chance to perfumers to launch their favorite creation that never saw the light of the day. Sopoudrage, by Fabrice Pellegrin is a scent dedicated to iris. It begins with a scent reminiscent of wet concrete – which comes from cashmeran. After a couple of minutes the earthy and rooty facets of iris appear in the lead but they are not very strong & actually they evolve into more of an ashy smell – quite austere and “distant” when you smell it. It has that feeling of vast empty space. There is also a hint of rose accompanied by a solar hedione which brings a light jasmine aroma into play. The perfume features also a couple more aromachemicals, such as Iralia, Muscenone and Iso E Super. It’s a pleasant take on iris theme and since quite a few synthetics are involved I think of it as a modern “experiment”. The whole brand seems fun and their pop-art inspired packaging sure attracts attention. Would you try this scent?
Le Frenchy from Guerlain starts with exhilarating lemon and bergamot. These two create a juicy and delightful twist of sour & bitter tones. Verbena adds mouth-watering sweetness to the scent, making the fragrance smell almost like lemon candy (think Nimm2). Presence of petitgrain adds some leafy verdancy that puts a shade of green between the joyful citrus tonalties. In the drydown Le Frenchy becomes more delicate, floral and slightly soapy thanks to neroli. That note is followed by lavender which, with its floral yet herbaceous aspect, makes the perfume to start veering slightly more masculine. My feeling is then confirmed when sage joins the composition. The latter one adds an aromatic, slightly camphorous facet that after a while turns quite sweaty and dirty. When this impression kicks in, I find Le Frenchy a bit too hard to stand. After a couple of hours the base reveals a woody vetiver, creamy-aromatic tonka and balmy ambergris. But so what if a sweaty odour of sage is that I smell the most? If it wasn’t for such unfortunate change I would probably quite enjoy this Guerlain offering but now that it smells like someone who didn’t wash for a while – I’ll pass.