Tag Archives: Armani Prive

Second Sunday Samples: Armani Privé Blues

Lucas: Yoo-hoo! I have a little switcheroo for you! Undina and myself decided to swap blogs for a moment! I’m sure most of you know Undina – her perfume stories are beyond amazing & statistics posts she does are always so precise. Plus her cat Rusty is already quite a star of a perfume blogosphere. So please, make her feel like home as she shares her thoughts at Chemist in the Bottle today. And remember to jump over to Undina’s Looking Glass tomorrow if you want to read my guest post.

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While thinking about this month’s Second Sunday Samples episode, I planned to review some iris perfumes – to stay on the topic of Month of Irises. But when Lucas and I decided to swap our traditional topics, I realized that neither of perfumes I intended to review would work: not only Lucas did detailed reviews for both – Armani Privé Iris Celadon and Atelier Cologne Iris Rebelle, but our opinions on both were much the same.

But I felt that I was onto something… Armani Privé is one of the brands not represented much on this blog, and bottles for two perfumes I chose for this post fit just perfectly the iris theme – in form if not in content (both figuratively and literally speaking).

For the explanation of my rating system, see Sea Star Ratings.

Armani Privé Bleu Turquoise


Armani Privé Bleu Turquoise by Giorgio Armani, created in 2018 by Aurélien Guichard, is oriental spicy perfume with the listed notes of incense, salt, black pepper, ylang-ylang, cypriol oil, jasmine, vanilla, sandalwood and moss (Fragrantica).

Armani Prive Bleu Turquoise

Lists of notes do not really mean much for any perfume, but even just reading about what went into Bleu Turquoise, I’m not too inspired. But, on the positive side, it perfectly corresponds to how I feel about this perfume: at least I do not have in my head that perpetual question: “where did all those great notes go?!!”

I’ve always liked turquoise as a color – abstractly, since it didn’t suit me really. As to the gemstone, I grew up associating it with older women: jewelry pieces made with it were usually heavier and more massive than would be appealing to a girl or a younger woman. My grandmother had a beautiful pair of golden earrings with large greenish turquoise stone – not polished completely to the artificial proper form but rather still maintaining natural shape.

Since I do not wear earrings, somebody else in the family inherited those. But I would love to buy a beautiful bottle that reminds me of that stone. I would, but I just can’t. Bleu Turquoise is one of those perfumes that make me wonder: why did they even bother? It is not unpleasant – but it’s not even pleasant. Applied (I tried both dabbing and spraying), it just sits on my skin as a blob of scent without any nuances, not projecting or developing much.

So for that perfume’s price I should rather go for a turquoise bracelet or a ring – as a virtual keepsake. At least I would want to wear it from time to time.

Armani Privé Bleu Lazuli


Armani Privé Bleu Lazuli by Giorgio Armani, created in 2018 by Pascal Gaurin, is oriental spicy* perfume with the listed notes of bergamot, mate, cardamom, plum, jasmine, osmanthus, tobacco, honey, sandalwood and vanilla (Fragrantica).


If, like me, you were wondering, what that name means: Lapis lazuli is a deep blue semi-precious stone that has been prized since antiquity for its intense color.

In addition to being used for jewelry and decorative items, natural ultramarine pigment is made from ground lapis lazuli. According to Wikipedia, it was the most expensive blue pigment during the Renaissance, often reserved for depicting the robes of Angels or the Virgin Mary. Girl with a Pearl Earring by Johannes Vermeer is painted with the natural ultramarine.

In 2013 Girl with a Pearl Earring was on display in San Francisco De Young museum, and I saw it during the Bouquets to Art exhibition.


But back to perfume. Bleu Lazuli opens with a strong combination of bergamot and cardamom sweetened by, I think, osmanthus. If there is mate in there, it’s completely covered by everything else with no chance to be recognized. Three hours into the development, if you press your nose really close, you can smell tobacco and honey. “Pressing nose” technique is required not because perfume turns to a skin scent at this point – no, it still smells strong – but it’s the only way you can catch those notes: they stay on skin but do not project. At no point I smell anything that reminds me of sandalwood or any other wood. Pleasant, inoffensive vanilla in drydown makes Bleu Lazuli even pleasant, though I’m still not positive that I would want to wear it even if a free bottle would drop on my lap: I think that it’s more like a 2.5 Sea Stars but I felt generous towards Bleu Lazuli after writing about Bleu Turquoise.


But what ticked me off the most were not boring (in my opinion) perfumes and not even the “inspiration” behind them (Why India? None of these two stones is mined extensively in that country – both come primarily from different regions, and if “India’s deep spiritual connection to blue” exists, I wasn’t able to find any systematic references to that fact; but even if it is so, brand’s connection of these two perfumes to India is on the level of my “iris” connection – and I do not charge for that). What pissed me off was brand’s petty greed: releasing two $310 perfumes, they just couldn’t splurge on individual “ad copy” for each of them. In two blurbs that they use on their own site and other sites selling these two, 200 words are identical; and only 29 (Bleu Lazuli)/24 (Bleu Turquoise) are different. And after all that, those 200 are not even good words!

Should you try these perfumes? Absolutely! If you come across them at a store, and there is nothing else you’d rather try, do it! After reading this, when you try them, you’ll either agree with me or will really like them.

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Shade & iridescence, Armani Privé Iris Celadon

I was never very fond of the idea of popular designer brands launching special new collections branded as “exclusive” or “boutique” lines. As if they tried to prove they can go beyond their own mass-market offerings and produce something more unique, less mainstream and from higher quality ingredients (supposedly). Many of those special fragrances are limited to designer’s own salons and that often triggers the feeling that the harder something is to get, the more tempting it is. Armani Privé is one of those exclusive side lines with limited distribution. Even though they are available in Poland in large Douglas salons I haven’t tried a single one of those. Until now.

The perfume in this line that felt interesting enough for me to actually seek for a sample holds a name of Iris Celadon and was launched in 2016. When I saw someone offering a small-ish decant I immediately made an offer and it worked out. A week later I could give it a try & decide if it was worth the effort. On my skin the perfume opens with a tart, slightly dusty bergamot that quickly fades away. When that happens a glimpse of elegant aldehydes appear on top, making the perfume much more glamorous and charming. The aldehydic vibe is fizzy but has some weight to it. It kind of feels like a nod to Chanel No.5 or 1932. However Iris Celadon feels less bright because there is cardamom that smells dusky. Maybe 20 minutes later iris enters the composition. Powdery, almost chalky at first, it smoothly changes into a silky, gently floral self. It feels modern and old-fashioned at the same time.


Heart of Armani Prive Iris Celadon hides a secret – for there is iris again but in a different form. There’s no possibility to mistake iris concrete for something else. The smell is very rich, buttery with some creamy nuances to it. Sometimes it might feel a bit gooey and in different moments the smell of iris butter entwine with the scent of dried roots with a little bit of earth. After a while the perfume becomes darker. Chocolate note adds a new color to the perfume, making it feel slightly powdery. The smell of cocoa is distinctive but not overpowering. It blends nicely with iris concrete – combined they smell like chocolate ganache. I didn’t detect mate absolute mentioned among notes. In the drydown there is a handful of semi-dirty patchouli with earthy, rooty vibe with a hint of balmy qualities. Musk and ambrette make it softer but they also have a dirty facet. Luckily iris as dominating aroma wraps around it all making it smell really good. Few hours later there’s a suede-like effect.

Iris Celadon by Armani Prive is a lovely perfume after all. It’s true that it’s not innovative or especially creative but I still find it very pleasing. It was created by perfumer Marie Salamagne, has good longevity and moderate sillage. Yet at a price of almost 200 € for a 100 ml bottle I don’t think I’ll be ever tempted to buy it. If you tried Iris Celadon and thought the same way you may be pleased to know that I found this fragrance to be very similar to Moonlight Patchouli by Van Cleef & Arpels which retails at a lower price, so maybe this is some sort of solution. The flacon of Iris Celadon has a simple form, it’s black with a gold name plate. Cap that looks like a stone is made in celadon color (neither blue, green or grey) but it’s apparently made of synthetic resin. Try this perfume if you can.

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