Tag Archives: Arquiste

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 36


In September 2016 Oliver & Co. presented two new fragrances, Vaninger being one of them. As you might have guessed from its name, the composition focuses on vanilla and ginger. Right upon spraying it smells of zesty lemon and fruity kumquat but very shortly ginger takes over. It releases an uplifling, fizzy smell that is fresh, citric and spicy at the same time. Spiciness becomes more intense after 20 minutes, becoming more medicated – with a smell similar to ginger tea. Then vanilla joins the composition. Its first steps are very lightweight, powdery. After a while it fully unfolds and becomes more creamy & balsamic. Turmeric adds warmth to the blend and carries on the spicy vibe. Tolu, ambroxan and benzoin make it more sensual and balmy. The finish is powdery with musks, heliotrope and hint of hedione.


Also in September 2016 Rania J. had a new perfume named Cuir Andalou on display. It was originally showed on preview in April but it still needed some changes so it took few extra months to smell the final version. The perfume opens with quite a raunchy leather that packs a powerful punch. It’s a tough, thick leather taken straight from a workshop where it was dyed black. It’s quickly followed by oud that gives it even more nocturnal and strong feeling. Then there is saffron, really dry one. Following are sandalwood and vetiver that introduce rough woody facet to the composition. Cuir Andalou smells very rugged, rough. It takes some time until it softens – that happens when powdery notes of iris and violet start diffusing. There’s also some rose and patchouli that provide warm & spicy sensation. There’s also a bit of castoreum. It’s not the strongest and wildest leather perfume I know but it definitely is tough, associated with horse saddle and strong men.


Another September launch is Arquiste Él – a perfume inspired by Acapulco of 1978 and Armando’s Le Club disco. It opens with a straightforward note of aromatic rosmery and green, slightly spicy laurels. After few minutes the composition is enriched with clary sage and it all blends into a fougere note that is very masculine from the start. Not much later things start to get dirty when Él begins to release animalic notes of civet and castoreum. Only suitable word to describe it is to say it smells sweaty. Honey adds even more wilderness to the blend. Vetiver and geranium are responsible for creating a dry yet aromatic facet but it’s not even close to weakening the wild notes. Additional notes include cinnamon, cardamom and patchouli. The perfume is very musky, very carnal. This perfume screams testosterone and when I smell it I only imagine a tanned, muscular guy, with big, hairy chest and thick facial hair. A typical macho men. This is not a perfume for people who are not self-confident!

Tagged , , , , , ,

6 boozy perfumes for New Year’s Eve

How unfair is it that Christmas is preceded with 4 weeks of Advent anticipation but when the time of festivities finally arrives, it’s gone in a blink of an eye? This year Christmas passed particularly fast due to a fact that those special holidays overlapped with weekend. Well, it’s different every year so maybe next time Christmas will result in more free days. Lucky me I’m on holidays, not going back to work until the end of the year. Despite Christmas is a matter of past now, you still probably have a lot of food left. Enjoying a good meal can make Christmas last a bit longer.

Just after Christmas everyone has another thing to look forward to & that’s a celebration of New Year’s Eve. Personally I was never a fan of that night, never went (and never was invited) to any party on 31st of December. But people love it and I bet they’re already thinking about where to go and what to wear for the occasion. But I’m not here to give a party or fashion advice. Instead I’ll give you a few ideas of fragrances you might want to wear. Since it’s the last night of the year I thought what you need is a perfume with a kick… and with some booze. Here they are:


  • Let’s begin this list with one of my favourite brands and their early 2014 release, shall we? Atelier Cologne Cedrat Enivrant is a twist on a traditional cologne theme as that’s what the brand is proud of doing. This particular one is additionally inspired by a mixture of gin, champagne, lemon juice & sugar, known in a cocktail world as French 75. As soon as you apply this perfume on your skin you’ll smell those ingredients and how playful they are. It’s a happy and zesty scent with light boozy character. Great for a house party!
  • Another perfume that I am very fond of that had to find its place at a list like this one is Liquides Imaginaires Dom Rosa. It’s a part of Eau Sanguine trilogy dedicated to great wines. Dom Rosa is in fact inspired by Dom Perignon Rosé. Opening of this perfume is very fizzy and uplifting, you can almost feel champagne bubbles burst on your skin. Addition of pomelo and pear make it feel more fruity & watery while rose in assistance of frankincense and woods complete the fragrance. Dom Rosa is also a more quiet option.
  • When I first tried Parfum d’Empire Ambre Russe I didn’t like it but when I came back to it few years later I thought it’s a nice scent. If I had a decant I would probably use it up one day. This one attacks you with a shot of ice-cold vodka as soon as you spray it. This impression then subsides & transforms into spiced, leathery amber of great sillage. There’s also a hint of champagne in it! Ambre Russe is stronger than previous two so apply more gently. How about a costume New Year’s Eve party with this perfume?
  • One of the nicest perfumes I tried this year was Masque L’Attesa. Not only it is an extraordinary iris fragrance that connects floral, buttery, rooty and earthy aspects of iris note but it also contains this unusual CO2 extract from beer that was blended into L’Attesa together with champagne accord. It smells weirdly alluring when you smell bubbly champagne that gradually becomes more yeastish until if finally reveals iris, sandalwood and leather notes. It’s a perfume with lots of glamour, so how about a fancy ball room party?
  • Nishane Fan Your Flames will have the biggest booze impact of all fragrances on this list. It starts innocently with a creamy coconut but after a few minutes it releases a huge portion of rum that overflows from this perfume. Boozy and sweet like molasses it becomes even more defined with support of tonka. Tobacco gives it a velvety and smoky climate of an old jazz club so perhaps it should be worn to some New Year’s Eve jazz concert?
  • Last but not least we have Arquiste The Architects Club. In this fragrance juniper berries together with angelica create a realistic impression as if a glass of gin & tonic was standing in front of you at the bar. The fragrance is then joined by lemon and bitter orange, as if they were bites to neutralize burning alcohol in your mouth. Ambery and guaiac wood notes that create this perfume give it a retro vibe – smoke, old wooden tables and chairs. At the same time it feels suitable for more places than just a bar. How about greeting 2017 under the sky, at some square where there is some party organized?

Do you like fragrances that have some booze? Do you have any favourites? And what are your plans to celebrate New Year’s Eve this year?

Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , ,