Tag Archives: Atelier Cologne

Decaffeinato, Atelier Cologne Café Tuberosa

Cologne despite being one of the oldest perfume genre that ever existed, it was one of the first I got to enjoy & appreciate since the beginning of my journey in the world of fragrance. Through the lens of what I just said it wouldn’t surprise anyone that Atelier Cologne seemed interesting to me. Through their work they’ve given a new life to cologne, a somehow neglected family these days. Long lasting colognes absolues are their signature but they made a step forward from a safe nest & started blending lively citrus accords with ingredients that are far from being an obvious match.

Iris, immortelle, leather, rose, vanilla, sandalwood or incense don’t feel like something that would go well with a blend of bergamot, lemon or orange. Yet Atelier Cologne combined them together and did it so well that all I could do is to be impressed. I’ve fallen in love with many of them! This season Sylvie Ganter & Christophe Cervasel introduce a new member to the family of colognes absolues. Latest creation is named Cafe Tuberosa and as you can guess, it’s supposed to be centered around a coffee note. But is it? Knowing my dislike of coffee in perfume I was a bit sceptical at first.

Upon putting a solid spray of Cafe Tuberosa on my wrist I quickly realized that this isn’t a coffee scent in the full meaning. On my skin it begins with a rich & dense smell of chocolate. It’s delightfully mouth-watering while also being slightly powdery. The perfume features cacao absolute from Ivory Coast, which gives it that deep dark aroma. In the background I get delicate hints of spiciness. Cardamom introduces this vibe but simultaneously it doesn’t really warm up the fragrance. When it sits on skin for a few more minutes it becomes softer and spicy tone go up a little bit.

cafe-tuberosa

If you were hoping for this perfume to become smoother, you might be disappointed. There’s no milkiness in Cafe Tuberosa that would tame the richness of chocolate. It’s a dark, bitter chocolate, 90% of cacao, a connoiseur treat that just couldn’t be defiled with milk. At some moment, after maybe 40 minutes I noticed that chocolate accord starts to be more like coffee. A little bit longer & I smell espresso note. It’s rich, bitter and aromatic. And still no drop of milk to turn it into a flat white. If you’re a coffee drinker or a huge dark chocolate devotee I think it’ll be a 7th heaven for you.

Tuberose from India, which is also a key element of Atelier Cologne Cafe Tuberosa (since it’s a part of the name) appears much later and it not that much present as I thought it would be. I do get a white flowers vibe but it seems quite muted & distant. It doesn’t have any indolic, intoxicating vibe. Actually on my skin it feels as if it was sitting under a layer of powdered cocoa. Because of that it feels more masculine to me, which is quite funny. I didn’t get any rose elements sadly (and the perfume has Damascus rose absolute!). There is also a faint presence of vanilla after a few hours.

Cafe Tuberosa easily lasts all day with a moderate sillage. My hunch is that it will be one of the most polarizing fragrances in Atelier Cologne range. You’ll either love it or hate it. Personally I consider it more of a chocolate/cocoa scent than a coffee one, but I’ve seen opinions of other who say they get a huge blast of espresso from it. Well, I’m glad I don’t! I was happy I tried it but it will rank far from my favorite 3 colognes absolues. This one is perfumed at 18% and it comes in 7.5, 30, 100, 200 ml sizes. The perfumer who worked on this new fragrance composition is Jerome Epinette.

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American juicy, Atelier Cologne Clémentine California

Traveling is a perfect way of broadening your horizons. And I love to travel as for me it’s a great way to learn about new cultures or foreign cuisine. It’s even better if you like sightseeing just like I do. Over the last 2 summers I spent my vacations by wandering around the cities that were completely new to me. Summer in the city is a very specific way of spending your holidays. When you walk around all day long you’re bound to get tired plus if you’re going to warm places you’ll get uneven tan because of your t-shirt. There are places that are yet too far away and too pricy for me to visit, so I appreciate any perfume that could give me the idea of visiting a distant country.

clementine-california-petit

With new Atelier Cologne Clémentine California I can go on imaginary trip to the United States. For me it’s a travel all across the Pacific Ocean but on this scented journey I don’t even need a visa (yes, Poland still requires visas). First serving of the latest cologne absolue brings a big platter of citrus. It’s dominated by a whole bunch of clementines that form a lovely pyramid. They diffuse a luscious aroma that made my mouth water in a blink of an eye. Clementine has a delicate sweetness of a pulp that is entwined with tart scent of the rind. It’s very fresh and realistic.

Additionally the juicy part of Clémentine California is boosted with mandarin to ensure even bigger explosion of citrus freshness. I find this combination to be very fruity. It doesn’t smell just like clementine with mandarin. I perceive is as a big fruity mixture. And it’s so natural that it gives an impression of a freshly made fruit salad or a smoothie. My closest comparison would be a multivitamin juice. Hint of juniper berry introduces a metallic element to the blend, so that the perfume is slightly reminiscent of gin & tonic. (which served as theme for Cedrat Enivrant)

clementine-california-visuel

Heart of the composition is much warmer than its top notes but I have to admit that clementines smelled surprisingly warm in a sunny way. Moving on a green, aromatic hue starts to surround Clémentine California. Basil adds a nice summer garden vibe to the scent. Star anise and pepper add a low level of spiciness that beautifully blends with the aroma of citrus accords. The latter is actually a tad metallic too which is a nice corresponding mark to juniper that appeared a bit earlier.

clementine-california-bottle

New Atelier Cologne is a lasting composition. For the next couple of hours I could smell citrus notes, green notes and warm spicy notes. It felt as if they were enjoying a little merry-go-round as specific accords kept fading away and then re-appearing. After that time a solid, yet quiet base arrives. In it, a woody, slightly earthy vetiver is blended with dry, sort of ascetic sandalwood. A bit of cypress with its “oily” verdancy brough an interesting twist to Clémentine California drydown. I love the optimism that flows out of this juicy composition.

If you like the maison of Atelier Cologne you’ll remember that each of their creation has a short story as a company & that it’s usually a story of an encounter between a man and a woman. This time it’s not any different. In case of Clémentine California the story goes like this:

“It was the warmest summer on record and the mood was equally intense at the film studios. He had been searching for her for months, growing tired of the perfect actress-type. About to give up, the moment came when it all changed. There she was at the opposite end of the counter; the woman he had been dreaming of. Her natural beauty and distinct voice would for sure steal the scene. He now had to convince her to change the course of her life… ”

Atelier Cologne Clémentine California with its 15% oil concentration qualifies as pure perfume. And you can feel it in the lasting power. Despite the fact that its whispering quietly, it lingers on skin for a really long time. Don’t we know that citrus notes are so fleeting, so a delicate scent that lasts is actually a positive thing in this case. This cologne absolue is available in 30, 100 and 200 ml formats. Technically it was released in 2016 but it appeared in wider distribution in early 2017. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to find any info about who’s a perfumer. Will update when possible.

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