Tag Archives: Atelier des Ors

Carnal Glow, Atelier des Ors Crépuscule des Âmes

I don’t know a person who wouldn’t like to experience happiness in their life. Everyone seeks their own way to find it and, once it’s found, to keep it by your side as long as you can. As many there are people in the world, as many there are recipes for being happy. Some find it in friends & family, others in possibility to travel across the world or in doing things that let them express who they really are. Atelier des Ors wishes that you find happiness in their new fragrances, inspired by Beethoven’s 9th Symphony and Gustav Klimt’s Beethoven Frieze. A search through art, music and scent.

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Crepuscule des Ames opens with a mandarin orange note that falls far from your usual understanding of a citrus fruit. First of all I can’t smell much juiciness or freshness from it. Actually it gives off a vibe of a sliced mandarin that is drying in the scorching sun of Sicily or other summery place. Instead of the juicy burst you can experience aromatic zestiness of the rind. It has a tang with a tiny bit of sweetness behind it. While smelling it with a nose pressed to my wrist I can catch a whiff of a freshly squeezed orange juice aroma. I find it really appealing how not obvious, how different and undefined this perfume is.

After a couple of minutes cardamom joins the composition. Citrus and spice is unusual pairing and it smells just as unusual as it sounds. The warm spiciness of cardamom, its slightly roasty, crunchy aspect combines with a dry mandarin, the latter one more green now. The smell is bizarre but satisfying. Plus even though it has a warm character it smells quite fresh and not overpowering – even on a hot summer day. Clary sage in Crepuscule des Ames brings a second wave of aromatic nuances. But this time those are more herbaceous, mentholated with a hint of sweat.

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To be honest with you from the very first moment I tried this new Atelier des Ors release I realized that Crepuscule des Ames definitely has more of a masculine DNA, or to put it in other words, it’s the most masculine one in the White Collection. It’s not only clary sage that convinces me about that. I don’t know how a hyssop smells but later on I get a vegetal spiciness of a pimento. It has this fiery peppery smell that tingles inside your nose and at the same time there’s something seductive & very manly about it. It’s the element that could introduce a sexual tension between two lovers. An evening invitation to discover the unknown.

For the next 2-3 hours the perfume was changing a little bit. I could smell all of the earlier notes present in different proportions depending on the moment I smelled it. After that time I noticed that some balsamic qualities are building up in deeper layers of Crepuscule des Ames. Eventually they surface et voila – now you can smell some frankincense. It’s more balmy, chewy and sense rather than airy and spiritual kind. Hyraceum (or hyrax) is a core element of this composition. In description it smells like a combination of musk, castoreum and civet. In this case it’s mostly musk.

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Musky aspect of hyraceum is definitely animalic but at the same time it doesn’t have the pungency or repulsive smell like many animal-derived smells (now synthetic of course). It’s somehow elegant and sophisticated if you ask me. It has the sensuality and warmth, like the smell of man’s skin but more dirty, more wild. It’s just another part of Crepuscule des Ames that has a trail of seduction and lust. Together with patchouli that completes this fragrance, you receive a multi-layered, multi-faceted composition with depth, dimension and more than 1 nuance to play with your nose.

During my first smelling of a White Collection in Milan I remember making this funny remark to Atelier des Ors Jean-Philippe Clermont and Megan Paki that it smells like Paco Rabanne Invictus. Even if resemblance is small I still get it up to this day. Obviously Crepuscule des Ames is way more elegant, not sporty at all, and very sophisticated. Perfumer behind this fragrance is Marie Salamagne. Crepuscule des Ames is an eau de parfum presented in brand’s signature 100 ml bottle with white elements (cap, name plaque). Would you like to give this intriguing creation a try?

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Our bare souls, Atelier des Ors Nuda Veritas

Not only as a humanity but also as individuals we have the right & privilege to experience happiness in our lives. But where does one find it? This quest – the search for happiness became the central theme for new White Collection from Atelier des Ors. Influenced also by Gustav Klimt’s Beethoven Frieze each of 3 new fragrances interprets a different part of this 34 meter long work of art in a unique way. And since Beethoven’s 9th symphony was an inspiration to create this frieze we have a real synesthesia of art, music and perfumery here. Today I present to you Nuda Veritas, which means ‘naked truth’ in latin. Could it be that true happiness lies in having nothing to hide?

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Nuda Veritas shows its presence in a very quiet and peaceful manner. At first I can smell some bergamot and it’s combining zesty values of its aromatic rind with sour-juicy pulp. Even though the opening is calm it has some brisk to it & I immediately become more energetic and awake after smelling this perfume. Just a few minutes later orange blossom lifts up from my skin and reaches the nose. The aroma it spreads around is incredibly fresh and crispy. The note feels surprisingly cold but in a fascinating way – it’s like the smell of the air at the break of dawn, when it’s still cool but also about to start getting warmer in a few moments. My mornings could smell like that everyday.

After some time orange blossom evolves on my skin so that it actually resembles neroli. It becomes more saturated compared to when I noticed it first and also gets more soapy and citrusy with an obvious orange hue. When I inhale it with my eyes closed so that I can focus more I also get a faint yet pleasant pear back note. There’s also a fine-smelling dewiness in Nuda Veritas that comes from Transluzone, a molecule from Firmenich that has an aquatic scent. It definitely doesn’t remind me of calone or any other nasty synthetic. It’s like a gentle wind that is a little bit moist. It’s another phase of the day when the sun is waking up and warming the ground, everything wakes up.

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As I go through the day new Atelier des Ors Nuda Veritas evolves too. It eventually reaches notes that create heart of the composition. At this point it becomes more floral but it still maintains a high level of freshness. There are 2 types of jasmine featured in this fragrance. First one is jasmine sambac and second one is an absolute from china. You all know I’m not into this particular floral note but oh man, it does smell so good here. It smells as if someone stripped it off all the indolic & animalic elements. In the end what’s left is a flower with white petals. The fragrance is so pretty and so pure that I just don’t want to stop smelling it. Who knew jasmine could be rendered in such a pretty and lovable way.

Next to this gorgeous jasmine there’s also some osmanthus. The latter one in a harmonious way adds a nice tea vibe to Nuda Veritas. It’s a bit apricoty too. Tiare flower on the other hand makes the whole bouquet more lush and creamy but it’s not overwhelming and not turning the perfume into something tropical. All these things happen over the course of a few hours so I can say that this fragrance is pretty entertaining. In the drydown there’s tagetes which is also a flower but I’m not sure if it’s really valued for its scent. Here it’s a popular flower used to decorate balconies and terraces.

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The very drydown of Nuda Veritas gives me the impression of a day filled with the sun which I truly like because it means this perfume is like a travel from the dawn to a glorious day. Ambroxan provides a lot of warmth to the fragrance and as I just mentioned it feels like rays of the sun warming up your face. Oakmoss is a nice addition to the blend – it introduces a shrub-like aromatic facet that is a little bit darker than the rest of the perfume. It’s like a shade from the tree (it smells a tad woody too) with a little chypre flavor. Hint of musk provides more softness and a blur so that the notes become more united. Supposedly there’s patchouli too in this perfume but I didn’t smell it.

Nuda Veritas, a new proposal from Atelier des Ors and 1 of the 3 fragrances that create brand’s White Collection is an absolute winner for me. It provides freshness with great longevity and complexity. It’s an ideal option to wear in Spring but I believe it might be even more pleasing in the Summer. Perfumer Marie Salamagne created a beautiful fragrance for the brand of Jean-Philippe Clermont. I’m pleased to have my own bottle of it in my collection. Nuda Veritas comes in a 100 ml bottle of eau de parfum. It’s still the same flacon with ray-like ribs on the back side. However the cap, name plate and a box became white to distinguish this new trio from earlier offerings.

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