While watching various movies I noticed two funny things. One thing is that when a wealthy family is portrayed, their beautiful house is usually placed at the very back of their mansion and in front of it there’s the impeccable garden full of flowers, fountains and bushes trimmed in some fantasy shapes. Second thing is that if there’s a murder plot in the film, the gardener is usually one of the first suspects. But let us focus on a garden itself today as Extrait d’Atelier presented a few months ago a perfume dedicated to the art of gardening. Follow me to the olfactory green maze.
Maitre Jardinier opens with a subdued zestiness coming from a marriage of lemons and bergamots. They feel as if they were distant & you could only hear remnants of their voices. After a few minutes a juicy and sweet element of mandarine and orange joins the composition. These two are more intensive than bergamot-lemon accord from before. This citrus opening is like a sun that wakes up the day. There’s something exhilarating about such concoction. It doesn’t take long until juniper berry cuts into the citrus flesh like a knife. It has a metallic feel with its usual aromatic facet of gin.
After this metallic sharpness subsides you’ll be left with aromatic, almost fougere-ish accord on your skin. The smell of pine needle brings forward a coniferous-green sensation that feels warm, slightly sappy. It’s the smell of the forest and as you inhale and exhale your body starts to feel more relaxed, at ease. There’s something aromatherapeutic about Maitre Jardinier as if it had a healing powers from Mother Nature. Laurel introduces a supple dryness with a hint of something peppery, making me think of garden bush. I really enjoy the vibe of tranquility that is created by this perfume.
Some time later this verdancy is ‘interrupted’ by a special guest. The moment peony arrives, the structure of Maitre Jardinier very slowly fills with its floralities. There’s nothing extravagant about this flower – it is really sheer, slightly watery and even reminiscent of a pear in the slightest bit. But its pastel pink color somehow makes it to the top and above the layer of green. Further into fragrance development its scent becomes more balmy and resinous thanks to fir balsam which spreads the beautiful aura of a magical forest where you could meet things out of this world.
Frankincense which becomes more pronounced later on, adds a feeling of mysticism. The smokiness it posesses is quite spiritual, kind of churchy, but what’s most interesting about it is the fact that on my skin it smells like a warm stone. Cedarwood gives Maitre Jardinier a substantivity in the base but with a bit of roughness. Amber has some mineral, slightly salty qualities in this perfume & I think it’s suitable here. Musky elements of the drydown oscillate between being clean and not clean. Addition of white woods strengthens the foundations of this new composition.
Maitre Jardinier by Extrait d’Atelier is a well done woody-aromatic-green perfume that proves that pine notes are suitable for more than just a toilet cleaner. The brand worked with perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour in order to shape this perfume in the best way possible. The result is an intriguing living labyrinth of smells in which you cannot be certain what awaits behind the corner. The fragrance is made in eau de parfum concentration and housed in a 100 ml bottle. But from now on Extrait d’Atelier is also offering a 10 ml travel version of all their scents. A great way to treat yourself.