Tag Archives: blogging

My place in a world of words & perfume

Few days ago I was asked to prepare a press kit for my blog to include it in press & media partners of Esxence. Since the fair is very fast approaching (only 5 more days until I fly to Milan!) they needed a document quickly. The fact is that I didn’t know exactly what such a press kit should include, I’ve never done one before. In my opinion it’s more or less some sort of advertisement. That said, this whole situation got me thinking really seriously about the world of perfume blogs, websites & my position in it. Even though I have less time for writing and reading other blogs because of my work, I keep trying not to completely forget about them. I write when I can and when I feel inspired. And I read others as often as I can. Usually trying to leave a comment as well.

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I tend to look around me and be watchful on what’s going on. Of course I notice how others are being nominated for some fragrance awards, how they win them and share their excitement on blogs. I see their columns in popular magazines & how successful they are. At some point I started to question myself who am I among perfume bloggers? I realized I’m just a small dot on this map. I don’t win any awards or even get nominated for them. Neither do I write fancy articles for popular magazines. Also I’m not being put under pressure by brands who would necessarily want to be featured at Chemist in the Bottle. But after almost 5 years of blogging it seems there is a group of people who are familiar with the name of my blog. And I’m thankful for each and every one of them.

I never wanted to be famous and blog statistics were never a priority to me, though it’s nice to know that someone reads carefully what I write and cares to leave a comment. I also want you to know that I hate being called a specialist or connoisseur because I don’t feel like one. I’m simply a person who is passionate about perfume – no more, no less. And I love being in that state. To tell you the truth, I don’t feel loved by the fragrance environment. But I feel totally accepted by it & I know that my voice is widely appreciated by this community. I might not be on top of the fragrance blogging chart but I know I’m doing something right if brands reach out to me wanting to meet at Esxence, so that I can discover their creations. Or when I visit a booth of some unknown brand & people tell me they know Chemist in the Bottle, after I introduce myself. This means a whole world to me.

I just wanted to let you know how I feel, hope you don’t mind I shared this.

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Out in the wild, Memo Russian Leather

I was always intrigued by Russia, for it’s a country of contrasts. It’s a place where richness clash with poverty, where you can find luxurious objects and old, destroyed things. I was also curious why so many perfume with words such as “russian” or “russe” are either ambers of leathery composition. I have not found the answer yet but who cares, if they smell fabulous. Another one that I found is no exception. It smells incredibly good, especially that it’s a fragrance journey… or a trip diary.

Upon first whiff Memo Russian Leather takes me for an imaginary walk in coniferous forest. Pine tree accord becomes obvious as soon as I apply a single spray on my skin. This very aromatic, uplifting tone is the source of freshness, an icy cold freshness. Just a few minutes later lavender joins the composition and adds herbal touch to the aromatic opening. Not only it warms up the composition so that it doesn’t feel icy cold anymore, it also adds some gently floral tones. Mint  – a crispy and chilly note of this perfume cools down the perfume again. It’s a mysterious forest indeed.

Once we wander deeper into this forest (taiga?), the perfume becomes more embracing. At some point it warms up for good, you leave the icy impressions behind and welcome the warm ones ahead. Memo Russian Leather at this point smells of cedar. But the scent is refreshing, crispy and a bit like a tree sap. The note is described by brand by cedar needles – so let it be as they say. Then tonka bean arrives, adding a lot of creamy, sensual warmth with hints of delicate spiciness and woody tones. Some coriander adds more spicy vibe but its paper-dry.

It takes around 30-40 minutes before I was able to smell leather directly. I mean earlier it was appearing somewhere in the background & assisting other notes that were stronger. Now leather is the accord that starts to dominate. It feels surprisingly cosy. On my skin it has a soft, almost plushy fragrance. It feels rich but at the same time it’s gentle, to not use a word caring. It’s continuously warm and this aspect is additionally highlighted by some spicy aspects. like earlier mentioned coriander, among others. I also find it really seductive in its unique way.

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Leather chord lasts on my skin for a really long time, probably 4 hours or so. In the meantime it was rather constant, I was able to smell tonka, woods, spicy elements. Lavender or pine from the opening stage were definitely less present, almost not present. You could compare this stage of Memo Russian Leather to a taiga wanderer who took a break and decided to camp by a fireplace. Then he resumes his trip and enters the forest again. This time it’s winter green scenery. Basil appears for a truly green impression. It has support of clary sage that reintroduce an herbal feeling. This particular note also gives the sweaty effect that brings more masculine vibe to the perfume.

Cypress and fern make you feel as if you were really in the forest, sitting on a fallen tree that is covered with moss. Positive thing is that all these notes smell warm and quite welcoming. I would definitely classify Russian Leather as fougere now. Rosemary along with juniper (this one is not officially mentioned but I think it’s there) introduce a slightly metallic, cold berry vibe. Nutmeg adds a dry, warm facet that makes me think of wooden bark. Addition of guaiac wood adds depth to the composition. Hint of patchouli gives dimension and wraps everything together.

Russian Leather by Memo is a multi-faceted fragrance with many layers and surprising twists. I really enjoyed wearing it and imaginary trip to Russian tundra was an interesting treat. I’m glad the perfume kept me warm in austere cold condition of that region. This perfume is kind of like a fur coat, perhaps that’s why founders decided to put a wolf howling to the moon on the front of Russian Leather flacon. Perfumer behind this composition is Alienor Massenet.

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