Tag Archives: By Kilian

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 46


Maison Francis Kurkdjian recently issued Aqua Celestia Forte, which is a flanker to Aqua Celestia introduced in 2017. I think forte is meant to be stronger and it’s just how it seems to be. It unfolds with a lightweight lime note that brings a little burst of juiciness to the skin. Shortly it is followed by blackcurrant. But instead of using a fruit the perfumer decided to use its bud. As a result a new green facet appears in the composition and it has a little bit of tarness – similar to the one that blackcurrant as a fruit provides. Addition of petitgrain brings more of a crispy freshness to Aqua Celestia Forte while mint makes it more invigorating and ice-chilled. Clean musky softness wraps around the wholeness of this MFK scent like a puff of fluffy cotton. Additional hints of mimosa and jasmine introduce a soft floral sensation but it’s very fleeting and barely there. I admit that Aqua Celestia Forte has more presence on skin than its predecessor. On the other hand I don’t think that this kind of perfume is worth its price tag. But the perfume is nice in general.


Latest composition introduced by Olfactive Studio is Flash Back in New York. It borrows part of its name from Flash Back (2013) but is a completely different perfume and shouldn’t be considered a flanker. Inspired by a photo of New York City in a snow storm the perfume is meant to present a contrast between cold and warm elements. At first the perfume is spicy, with a lot of saffron, bit of cumin and clary sage that make it feel more masculine. Then I get a whole lot of violet flower. On my skin it really becomes an overwhelming part of the perfume & through its dewiness it smells cold. Later a leather accord kicks in – it’s rather strong and bold. A dark leather that entwines with the smell of birch tar. As I see the progress of Flash Back in New York the perfume becomes dry, peppery. We have vetiver and papyrus that give this impression. In the drydown the fragrance becomes more aromatic & creamy thanks to tonka. Additional notes that slipped my attention include jasmine and cotton flower. Perfumer behind it is Jerome Epinette.


I have a feeling that Kilian has a lot of liking for exclusive fragrances and limited editions of some. The last one that I learned about is named Miami Vice (rolls eyes) and features two fragrances ‘inspired by the sun, sin and style of the city of Miami’. Love the Way You Taste is a straightforward evocation of mojito. It starts with a vibrant mint accord that is very green, aromatic (almost fougere, like fern) and has quite a resemblance of basil leaves. This scent makes a pairing with zesty lemon to provide explosive freshness that really is similar to mojito cocktail. Addition of magnolia makes the composition slightly milder although floral-lemony signature of magnolia matches this theme really well. More green elements introduce dewiness. Vetiver in the base makes Love the Way You Taste feel more grassy and it also provides a specific dryness that could remind of gin scent. The perfume indeed has something that gives it its alcoholic vibe. Otherwise this limited edition from Kilian is a simple, non complicated fragrance that mimics a popular beverage is a nice way. In this case I also have a feeling that price tag is way too high. Sidonie Lancesseur is the perfumer who created this limited edition fragrance.

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Monday Quick Sniffs, part 43


Robert Piguet launched L’Insomnuit in 2016 and I was aware of that. Since I’m not a huge fan of the brand I didn’t seek for a chance to try it until very recently when someone offered me a sample to swap for. L’Insomnuit opens with a fruity note of plum that smells kind of sugary & candied on my skin. However the sweetness is quickly counteracted with zesty bergamot. There’s also a fir balsam that adds an aromatic facet of an evergreen forest. Then comes an earthy, rooty element of iris, introduced to the perfume via orris absolute. After a while it deepens and becomes more buttery due to presence of iris concrete in the formula. L’Insomnuit has a hefty dose of oud that swallows any iris elements and replaces them with resinous, oily texture of oud. The drydown is half smooth-half harsh. Cedarwood is more rough and tad sweaty and cypriol’s waxy scent magnifies the feeling on my skin. On the contrary there is tonka bean that provides a creamy vibe with a faint background spiciness. Sandalwood adds to the smooth value of this Piguet composition. I would probably rate L’Insomnuit much higher if it wasn’t for the fact that iris part, which in my opinion is the most beautiful part of this perfume, disappears very quickly. Actually the whole thing doesn’t last longer than 2 hours on me & it smells only with a nose pressed to the skin. That’s a pity.


Gold Knight is the latest fragrance from the stable of Kilian, it was launched simultaneously with Woman in Gold. Together they form a collection ‘From Dusk till Dawn’. To me Gold Knight represents everything that I wouldn’t like to find in my perfume. There’s a whiff of bergamot that disappears in a snap and then right off the bat the perfume becomes a huge honey monster. I didn’t even have to wait until it fully develops to know that this is going to be my trauma. The golden liquid is sticky and it’s everywhere. It’s sickly sweetness spreads very fast. Aniseed makes it more spicy in a mild way but not enough to temper the amount of sugar this perfume has. As if there wasn’t enough sweetness in this fragrance, the perfumer decided to also use vanilla. Now this is becoming gooey, like a dense blob that could cause diabetes just be smelling it. At some point patchouli joins the composition. It smells rather synthetic and I can’t get rid of a feeling that Gold Knight reminds me of Mugler Angel. This perfume is a pure excess of sweetness, it’s over-the-top overdone. I don’t know how any man could wear it at his own will. I think that even women wouldn’t be too fond of it. But that’s just my opinion. Gold Knight is housed in a Klimt-style adorned clutch.


Photography-inspired line Olfactive Studio introduced Woody Mood, an oriental-woody fragrance by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour. It opens with a bright and brisk bergamot accord combined with a lemon-like, mild spiciness of ginger. The fragrance quickly warms up, developing a sensual vibe. There’s a lovely, jammy saffron chord that kind of reminds me of rum, olfactively speaking. A note of sage adds a slightly herbal feeling in the background. Later on comes a woody part. Sequoia introduces a substantive woodiness. Then there is also jatamansi, introducing an earthy, rooty feeling to Woody Mood. Initially it smelled similar to licorice to my nose. Things get even more interesting after 30 minutes when new Olfactive Studio offering becomes darker and aromatic. Black tea note is very nicely pronounced, blending the warmth of a brew with fermented tea leaves. Incense adds a smoky effect, so essential in recreating the smell of black tea or lapsang suchong. Despite some darkness, there’s also light in this perfume. Resinous styrax carries a balsamic sweetness that blends with cocoa note. Leather note is also present but not dominant, it nicely co-exists with other ingredients. Finally there’s patchouli for dimension and longevity. I noticed that Woody Mood doesn’t have much sillage, but it lasts on skin for around 7 hours.

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