Tag Archives: Byredo

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 44


Getting to try at least one fragrance from Papillon Artisan Perfumes took me way longer than I thought. Were I given a chance to try it, I would pick Tobacco Rose over the others. Courtesy of a friend I can try it now. Tobacco Rose opens quite sweet and honeyed with a combined notes of beeswax and honey. Caraway adds some spiciness to it but it quickly evolves into something dirtier and animalic. Then we have the rose – its deep, dark red color is voluminous and has a strong presence yet its character is sensual. There’s also quite a lot of geranium in Tobacco Rose. It gives the impression of more crispy and fresh flower, as if it was still growing on the green bush. Drydown is earthy and balsamic. A blend of patchouli and tobacco gives a smoky vibe to the perfume. Oakmoss, tolu balsam or hay give it darker, more nocturnal vibe. Ambergris adds something mineral while musk is a source of some dirtiness. Papillon Tobacco Rose is not my fairytale. With a similar olfactive profile I prefer Tauer Phi Une Rose de Kandahar which is much more lush and rich.


Byredo‘s tempo of introducing new fragrances completely left me behind in sampling them, not that I had any strong intention to follow them anyway. But here I am with a sample of Reine de Nuit. The opening is centered around blackcurrant. It has a nice fruity & tart smell that balances between sweetness and bitterness of its own. Interesting twist to it is the addition of saffron.  Once it starts unveiling its soft, velvety spiciness the whole perfume gains a comforting warmth. Afterwards there is a gradual progress that leads to rose accord. I didn’t find it very strong. Actually it somehow got lost among saffron scent. Did it blend too much? Maybe. Frankincense that appears some time later adds a smoky element but it’s not very dark. In fact it feels quite transparent with that gentle churchy vibe. Drydown has earthy patchouli and a note of amber and ambrette. There was something slightly resinous, mineral there but overally it didn’t impress me. Considering that it’s an extrait it has poor sillage and longevity on me. With a hyped 350 euro for 30 ml I will pass… 3 times!


I don’t pay much attention to boutique lines of various designer houses (with some exceptions). Since Hajusuuri and I are like fragrance twins I decided that it’s worth giving Guerlain Neroli Outrenoir a try after she said how much she liked it. So do I, it opens fresh, with a rustling verdancy of petitgrain combined with zesty & citric smell of bergamot. Then comes the aroma of black tea. It’s intense in its lightness, you will recognize it without a mistake. Its darkness contrasts with neroli and orange blossom that provide summery, white floral brightness to the composition. I find this part very invigorating, suitable for spring and summer, maybe even for colder season too. Moss enhances the qualities of smoky tea, giving this Guerlain more dusky edge. Myrrh adds a delicate oriental vibe of something balmy while ambrette add a vegetal aspect to it. I think Neroli Outrenoir is lovely. However I have one big issue with it – it just doesn’t last. 2 hours after I apply it it’s completely gone and I cannot even smell any leftovers of it. Applying more didn’t help. Therefore I refuse to pay an exclusive price for something that I won’t be able to enjoy through the day. Money saved!

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Monday Quick Sniffs, part 32

After a bit of a break I’m back to bring you some mini reviews

Miller et Bertaux launched In, in 2013. This composition opens with rich and dense aroma of elemi. Resinous and balsamic initial phase gains some salty and woody facets as the fragrance keeps developing on skin. At some point this rather dark and heavy opening gets enlightened by ambery notes. Amber chord in In, is a light, luminous version of itself. It also introduces a decent portion of light that “pierces” through the darkness of elemi. As the time goes by the composition becomes more dry and veers towards woody notes. There is some fizzy ginger combined with bergamot and lime after which comes the aromatic drydown consisting of cedarwood and some musky notes that have some filthy vibe to them. In, is not a bad fragrance – it’s just not for me.

Last year Byredo introduced Rose of No Man’s Land. Considering the fact that they make quite a lot of perfumes lately I wasn’t very keen on trying this but I finally gave in. This new offering is pretty – that’s basically all I have to say. It’s a bright rose fragrance made of hundreds of petals in saturated red color. It’s floral all the way, almost like a soliflore because other notes such as raspberry blossoms or pink pepper make it more sweeter and more girly with a gentle touch of soft spiciness placed in the background. There is also some amber and papyrus that give it a slightly woody vibe and at least in my case I smell something kind of medicinal in the base. Rose of No Man’s Land is a very girly scent but you’d expect something more complex.

Baccarat Rouge 540 is a late 2015 release from Maison Francis Kurkdjian. This perfume starts with a rich note described as amberwood. Indeed it smells woody but also has some resinous and kind of sappy facets that become more defined after 20 or so minutes. Then there is fir resin which is so nice, aromatic and green that it almost transports you to the depths of evergreen forests. The smell is warm, woody, slightly pine-y and at the same time very comforting. Addition of saffron brings in the creamy and delicious spiciness that nicely surrounds the other accords that kind of immerse in the saffron aroma. Jasmine here smells more clean and fresh, providing a nice twist to this fragrance dominated by woody and aromatic tones.

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