Getting to try at least one fragrance from Papillon Artisan Perfumes took me way longer than I thought. Were I given a chance to try it, I would pick Tobacco Rose over the others. Courtesy of a friend I can try it now. Tobacco Rose opens quite sweet and honeyed with a combined notes of beeswax and honey. Caraway adds some spiciness to it but it quickly evolves into something dirtier and animalic. Then we have the rose – its deep, dark red color is voluminous and has a strong presence yet its character is sensual. There’s also quite a lot of geranium in Tobacco Rose. It gives the impression of more crispy and fresh flower, as if it was still growing on the green bush. Drydown is earthy and balsamic. A blend of patchouli and tobacco gives a smoky vibe to the perfume. Oakmoss, tolu balsam or hay give it darker, more nocturnal vibe. Ambergris adds something mineral while musk is a source of some dirtiness. Papillon Tobacco Rose is not my fairytale. With a similar olfactive profile I prefer Tauer Phi Une Rose de Kandahar which is much more lush and rich.
Byredo‘s tempo of introducing new fragrances completely left me behind in sampling them, not that I had any strong intention to follow them anyway. But here I am with a sample of Reine de Nuit. The opening is centered around blackcurrant. It has a nice fruity & tart smell that balances between sweetness and bitterness of its own. Interesting twist to it is the addition of saffron. Once it starts unveiling its soft, velvety spiciness the whole perfume gains a comforting warmth. Afterwards there is a gradual progress that leads to rose accord. I didn’t find it very strong. Actually it somehow got lost among saffron scent. Did it blend too much? Maybe. Frankincense that appears some time later adds a smoky element but it’s not very dark. In fact it feels quite transparent with that gentle churchy vibe. Drydown has earthy patchouli and a note of amber and ambrette. There was something slightly resinous, mineral there but overally it didn’t impress me. Considering that it’s an extrait it has poor sillage and longevity on me. With a hyped 350 euro for 30 ml I will pass… 3 times!
I don’t pay much attention to boutique lines of various designer houses (with some exceptions). Since Hajusuuri and I are like fragrance twins I decided that it’s worth giving Guerlain Neroli Outrenoir a try after she said how much she liked it. So do I, it opens fresh, with a rustling verdancy of petitgrain combined with zesty & citric smell of bergamot. Then comes the aroma of black tea. It’s intense in its lightness, you will recognize it without a mistake. Its darkness contrasts with neroli and orange blossom that provide summery, white floral brightness to the composition. I find this part very invigorating, suitable for spring and summer, maybe even for colder season too. Moss enhances the qualities of smoky tea, giving this Guerlain more dusky edge. Myrrh adds a delicate oriental vibe of something balmy while ambrette add a vegetal aspect to it. I think Neroli Outrenoir is lovely. However I have one big issue with it – it just doesn’t last. 2 hours after I apply it it’s completely gone and I cannot even smell any leftovers of it. Applying more didn’t help. Therefore I refuse to pay an exclusive price for something that I won’t be able to enjoy through the day. Money saved!