Tag Archives: Cecile Zarokian

Falling Leaves, Two from Jacques Fath

While some parts of Poland suffer from extensive snowfalls, frigid weather and problems they can cause on the road and in the city, here where I live we didn’t get a single snowflake. I’m not sure if it’s good or bad but I wish it was a bit white – it’s Winter after all. When I look outside the window it looks more like gloomy Autumn – heavy clouds hang low in the sky, it rains & everything looks grey and dull. This kind of weather brough me to finally trying a 3rd volume of Fath Essentials by Jacques Fath. There are 4 new scents. They all fit an Autumn mood in my mind.

Le Loden immediately opens with a generous dose of rooty vetiver. It has an aromatic feeling to it, slightly earthy but not very dirty with the soil. Effervescent spiciness of fresh ginger make vetiver stand out and truly shine in this fragrance. A hint of mandarin makes the whole blend softer and a little juicy with a certain tang. Pink pepper essence introduces mild spiciness that vibrates in a pleasant way and adds an extra facet to the aromatic impression. Further into its development Le Loden becomes green and crispy thanks to a geranium note used by a perfumer.

loden

After a while the perfume becomes kind of raspy, prickly. The feeling I get is still green but the shade has darkened. It could be a raspberry leaf, a new material that became quite trendy in 2018. I haven’t smelled its pure form so don’t know its exact characteristics. Juniper berry add a delicate metallic sensation of gin & tonic. Drydown is a little floral and creamy due to presence of ylang-ylang but it quickly moves to the background when curly, brownish leaves of tobacco appear. They spread their characteristic aroma – slightly smoky, stale, enveloping. Together with patchouli and more vetiver Le Londen turns woody, darker & gradually fades away in that form.

Tempete d’Autumne is like a cold-fighting recipe on a chilly day. This composition opens with mouth-watering juices of orange and mandarin that evoke the smell of Christmas preparations. When cinnamon joins the composition the character of this fragrance becomes even more festive. It smells delicious like an orange decorated with studs made of cloves. After a while this new Jacques Fath offering becomes very warm and milky. The longer it sits on the skin the more complex and intriguing it becomes. To me the milky phase smells like a home-made remedy a mom would make.

tempete-automne

Lactonic tones of milk entwine with sugary spiciness of cinnamon. This drink, which is additionally infused with sensually warm tonka, feels also slightly aromatic and has a smooth character. It also creates the impression of smelling something honeyed, sweet. After a few hours I could smell a bit of coriander combined with fresh & herbaceous lavender tones. The very drydown is more substantive and full-bodied – it has a pleasant leather accord to make Tempete d’Automne more dense and a creamy, polished sandalwood to finish the fragrance with sensual, hugging feeling. The scent lingers nicely on your skin. Additional notes of this spicy-balmy perfume include ylang and white flowers.

All in all a third installment of Fath Essentials is a pretty solid quartet of fragrances. They are not my favorites from Jacques Fath as I think I liked the very first collection the most plus Rosso Epicureo from the second wave. Still I think that they are worth a try, especially if you’re looking for something green, woody or spicy. In my opinion this particular collection evokes Autumn spirit in a nice way – therefore I think they are best to wear in colder months. Le Loden with slightly green juice was composed by Luca Maffei while brownish juice of Tempete d’Automne is a work of Cecile Zarokian.

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Defining Undefined at Pitti Fragranze 2018 – part 3

My second day at Pitti Fragranze was full of interesting and unexpected events. I tried many perfume on that day, met some new people & listened to some interesting conversations and panel discussions that broadened my horizons and taught me new things about scent culture in different parts of the world. In the evening some spontaneous actions resulted in having the most amazing dinner in Florence ever. Surrounded by 4 perfumers, 2 brand owners, fellow blogger and few more people by the table we enjoyed food, drinks and conversations. It was a good day.

Normally at the end of my 2nd day at the fair I would’ve been cautious to not stay out too long. It’s because I always had to pack all my stuff beforehand so that I could leave my rented room early in the morning to arrive at the airport on time. But not this year. Return flights were not in my favor either and Aeroporto di Bologna was closed for a few days including the weekend when I was in Florence. In the end I decided to stay in Italy for a bit longer and fly back home on Tuesday.

Used to having two days to discover things I wanted, this extra day that I got for the first time since I started going to Fragranze was very calm for me. I indeed tried most of the things on Friday and Saturday. In fact I dedicated Sunday to spending more time with people, since it’s them who create the entire atmosphere.After a few years people become more important than perfume. Also for the first time the show wasn’t open to public on final day which was clearly visible in the corridors that were not as crowded as usual. Weird choice to not allow potential costumers to enter.

I didn’t smell so much on that day, only a couple of perfume I missed earlier. For example Jasmagonda, a new proposal from Pierre Guillaume – a Collection Rework composition for Drama Nuui. It was a beautifully clear magnolia & jasmine scent with transparent and delicate facets. I also tested two scents from Parco 1923. Concept of this brand is to use ingredients obtained from plants that only grow in the region of Abruzzo. Fragrances were ok but didn’t stay in my memory. Another new try for me was 401 E. Amatrice. Their only perfume is bearing the same name as the brand and apparently contains 140 ingredients! I’m immune to such talk, how would I smell all that?

After having longer and insightful talks with many people around the fair, especially with Nick from Gallivant came the time to do some commemorative photos with them as well. Luckily nobody opposed. I also stopped by the booth of Map of the Heart, mostly because the other day we were walking down the street in Florence, next to each other and we didn’t recognize each other… They were launching White Heart dedicated to love – with aldehydes, white flowers, lavender and bit of spice. It smelled very unusual. And after recommendation from Alex I also smelled Antonio Alessandria Fara, a sparkling lemonade perfume but with a sweaty cumin undertone in the background. We also tried a range of Abel together. It’s an affordable line of all natural fragrances.

I had a great lunch with Alex Lee at a nearby cafe and a great chat with Stephanie Bakouche regarding my current position at work and how I can make a change. In chat with Cecile Zarokian I tried to find out about her recent work but her lips were sealed. That’s how Fragranze 16 was drawing towards its end. Even though it was open until 6 PM, many brands started packing around 4 PM. Everyone wanted to make it back home as soon as possible after these 3 tiring days.

Observation I (and not just me) made during this edition of Pitti Fragranze was that there was overally less brands exhibiting, fewer people visiting, many people looked tired. Some brands even stated that it’s probably their last time at the Florentine fair. Why? Because TFWA Exhibition (Tax Free World Association) in Cannes was happening only few weeks later. For most there was no reason to exhibit in both places and they opted for Cannes. There’s something else that disturbs me.

The fact is that none of the niche brands is big and rich enough to be able to actually have a stand in the main area at TFWA – this place is dominated by Dior, Guerlain, Chanel and tens of other brands you can see at the airport duty-free. So what niche does? Niche rents hotel suites or yahts to organize little showrooms where you can visit them by appointment. Surely a great way to scoop some audience, especially that masses of people visit Cannes for that exhibition.

I wonder if in next years Pitti Fragranze will slowly start to deteriorate… I sure hope not.

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