Tag Archives: Cecile Zarokian

Defining Undefined at Pitti Fragranze 2018 – part 3

My second day at Pitti Fragranze was full of interesting and unexpected events. I tried many perfume on that day, met some new people & listened to some interesting conversations and panel discussions that broadened my horizons and taught me new things about scent culture in different parts of the world. In the evening some spontaneous actions resulted in having the most amazing dinner in Florence ever. Surrounded by 4 perfumers, 2 brand owners, fellow blogger and few more people by the table we enjoyed food, drinks and conversations. It was a good day.

Normally at the end of my 2nd day at the fair I would’ve been cautious to not stay out too long. It’s because I always had to pack all my stuff beforehand so that I could leave my rented room early in the morning to arrive at the airport on time. But not this year. Return flights were not in my favor either and Aeroporto di Bologna was closed for a few days including the weekend when I was in Florence. In the end I decided to stay in Italy for a bit longer and fly back home on Tuesday.

Used to having two days to discover things I wanted, this extra day that I got for the first time since I started going to Fragranze was very calm for me. I indeed tried most of the things on Friday and Saturday. In fact I dedicated Sunday to spending more time with people, since it’s them who create the entire atmosphere.After a few years people become more important than perfume. Also for the first time the show wasn’t open to public on final day which was clearly visible in the corridors that were not as crowded as usual. Weird choice to not allow potential costumers to enter.

I didn’t smell so much on that day, only a couple of perfume I missed earlier. For example Jasmagonda, a new proposal from Pierre Guillaume – a Collection Rework composition for Drama Nuui. It was a beautifully clear magnolia & jasmine scent with transparent and delicate facets. I also tested two scents from Parco 1923. Concept of this brand is to use ingredients obtained from plants that only grow in the region of Abruzzo. Fragrances were ok but didn’t stay in my memory. Another new try for me was 401 E. Amatrice. Their only perfume is bearing the same name as the brand and apparently contains 140 ingredients! I’m immune to such talk, how would I smell all that?

After having longer and insightful talks with many people around the fair, especially with Nick from Gallivant came the time to do some commemorative photos with them as well. Luckily nobody opposed. I also stopped by the booth of Map of the Heart, mostly because the other day we were walking down the street in Florence, next to each other and we didn’t recognize each other… They were launching White Heart dedicated to love – with aldehydes, white flowers, lavender and bit of spice. It smelled very unusual. And after recommendation from Alex I also smelled Antonio Alessandria Fara, a sparkling lemonade perfume but with a sweaty cumin undertone in the background. We also tried a range of Abel together. It’s an affordable line of all natural fragrances.

I had a great lunch with Alex Lee at a nearby cafe and a great chat with Stephanie Bakouche regarding my current position at work and how I can make a change. In chat with Cecile Zarokian I tried to find out about her recent work but her lips were sealed. That’s how Fragranze 16 was drawing towards its end. Even though it was open until 6 PM, many brands started packing around 4 PM. Everyone wanted to make it back home as soon as possible after these 3 tiring days.

Observation I (and not just me) made during this edition of Pitti Fragranze was that there was overally less brands exhibiting, fewer people visiting, many people looked tired. Some brands even stated that it’s probably their last time at the Florentine fair. Why? Because TFWA Exhibition (Tax Free World Association) in Cannes was happening only few weeks later. For most there was no reason to exhibit in both places and they opted for Cannes. There’s something else that disturbs me.

The fact is that none of the niche brands is big and rich enough to be able to actually have a stand in the main area at TFWA – this place is dominated by Dior, Guerlain, Chanel and tens of other brands you can see at the airport duty-free. So what niche does? Niche rents hotel suites or yahts to organize little showrooms where you can visit them by appointment. Surely a great way to scoop some audience, especially that masses of people visit Cannes for that exhibition.

I wonder if in next years Pitti Fragranze will slowly start to deteriorate… I sure hope not.

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Scented canvas, Evody Collection Galerie

Fine arts are such a broad area for sourcing inspiration. Basically every millennium gave birth to numerous artists who either followed the existing style in painting and sculpture or who felt too limited by art canon that they decided to rewrite the rules by initiating their own artistic movement. It’s not a surprise that people from perfume world seek inspiration also in art galleries. Just in 2017 several brands decided to introduce perfume reflecting the emotions of certain painting, sculpture or tapestry. Evody family duet of mother & daughter, Cerine Vasseur and Regine Droin also linked art and perfumery by creating 3 compositions under a little of Collection Galerie.

sens-abstrait

Inspired by abstractionism, Sens Abstrait opens with a refreshing citrus notes that are slightly juicy and a little bit tart. It’s hard to describe what exact fruit are inside this accord since it’s quite blended and I find it difficult to extract lemon, bergamot or orange from the mixture. After a few minutes the perfume develops a light green facet. Its airiness and transparency have only a little bit of color. Aroma of this note reminds me of a dewy grass smell. Floral note develops after 30 minutes as a very delicate veil of meadow flowers that once again have not been specified in any way. The drydown has a woody aspect that is a bit dry and austere, giving more solid body to Sens Abstrait. Amber accord warms up the composition, making it feel more sensual on the skin. It’s really light as for eau de parfum but lasts a decent amount of time.

tubereuse-manifeste

Taking surrealism for the inspiration, Tubereuse Manifeste in its starting phase reveals a rich sweetness of rum note. It brings the typical sugar cane scent with a delicious alcoholic flavor. Chamomile adds the unusual soft & herbal twist. Shortly tuberose is joining the composition. It introduces a highly saturated white floral sensation that feels quite indolic, almost touching the impression of something smoky, ashy. Vanilla makes it softer and therefore more appealing. Its creamy sweetness also serves as a bridge that connects tuberose with rose. The latter one appears some time later, showing up as a beautiful bright red flower. It feels very exclusive and elegant. Its intensity is also nicely rounded, giving the impression of something oily (as if you were smelling pure rose oil) and sophisticated at the same time. Davana makes the floral aspect more dusty while iris butter gives it an earthy finish with a buttered powdery facet. The drydown is a combination of smoky yet sensual labdanum, sticky benzoin that is balsamic and sweet at the same time, there is also a hint of leathery and animalic notes. Tubereuse Manifeste is way more intensive and has better longevity than Sens Abstrait. White floral lovers would be in heaven wearing this fragrance.

couleur-fauve

Couleur Fauve, a perfume born from the Fauvism painting style, is in my opinion the most lovely fragrance in this collection. It opens with a mentholated bergamot that 2-3 minutes later clash with a mix of pink and sichuan pepper for a tingly sensation that awakens the attention of the wearer. It very shortly becomes balsamic thanks to amber. Its luminous facet introduce this incredibly appealing play of light and shade. There are moments when ambery tones become brighter thanks to the sweetness of vanilla, only to become more shady because of earthy patchouly aspect. It’s also entwined with a light touch of castoreum. It’s animalic aspect is not offensive at all – it actually feels like a dense fur coat. On skin it has a very carnal, seductive aura that reminds me of Ramon Monegal Ambra di Luna. Benzoin is responsible for introducing a delightful balmy vibe that has some creamy sweetness so that it actually feels like toffee or caramel. Ambergris in Couleur Fauve gives this perfume a mineral ambery tone that feels salty in a mineral way. It’s a nod to the ocean, from where the material comes from in nature. The perfume is undeniably very sexy and seductive. It’s something you could wear on a romantic date in a more intimate scenery.

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Collection Galerie is a nice addition to Evody range. These 3 fragrances are quite diverse so there’s a chance that everyone will find something to like. Of course depending on your tastes you will prefer one over the other, just like I found Sens Abstrait to be the most flat and with least character than the remaining two. A nose who worked on this trio is Cecile Zarokian. The fragrances – all 3 in eau de parfum concentration will be available in September in 100 ml bottles.

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