Tag Archives: chemistry

Perfume Fact No. 5

clove

We’re counting down the days until Christmas so let’s learn something associated with the festive season. Did you know that a characteristic smell of clove, which is considered a winter spice, consists mainly of one chemical compound? Up to 90% and no less than 72% of clove essential oil is reserved for eugenol. It has a pleasant, sharp and spicy scent profile that we associate with clove. You can find eugenol as a part of other common Christmas spice – in cinnamon leaf oil in amount of over two thirds while in cinnamon bark oil there’s usually no more than 20% of it. Apart its fragrant properties eugenol also has antiseptic and mild anaesthetic values – that’s why it’s advised to temporarily chew on a clove before you get to the dentist in case of toothache. Eugenol molecule is also a starting point in obtaining vanillin through oxidation process. In perfumery you can find it as part of oriental accords. European Commission considers eugenol as one of 26 most common skin sensitizers. Its labelling is strictly regulated: it’ll be listed if exceeds 100 ppm in rinse off and 10 ppm in leave-on products.

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Perfume Fact No. 4

extraction

Did you know that supercritical carbon dioxide (CO2) extraction is a trending method of obtaining a whole range of new materials that can be used in fragrance and flavor industries. At temperature above 31°C and pressure of 72.9 atm or higher CO2 turns to its supercritical state and becomes a liquid. In this form it can work as a solvent. Such supercritical fluid has the ability to penetrate fruit, flowers or other scented object and draw out the constituents of its smell. When conditions become smaller than those mentioned before, CO2 returns to its gas state – what remains is a pure extract that ideally reflects the odour of the material that was extracted. This method allows the perfumers to utlize new components that enrich the palette and broaden the horizons of perfume art. Have you tried any perfume that indicated a CO2 extract use?

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