Tag Archives: chemistry

Perfume Fact No. 3

raindrop

Did you know that the specific, earthy-ozonic-fresh scent that comes after the first rain in a while or after a storm is not a matter of accident? We can experience this scent effect thanks to a fragrance molecule known as geosmin. It’s produced by Streptomyces bacteria and some cyanobacteria that live in the ground. When they die they release said compound. Our noses are very sensitive to this bicyclic alcohol. Modern perfumery utilizes geosmin sometimes but nobody uses bacteria for that – it’s produced synthetically in the lab (the synthesis method is known since 1968).

Do you like the smell of the ground after the rain? Would you like it to be used in perfume more?

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Perfume Fact No. 2

oakmoss

Did you know that atranol and chloroatranol are two main constituents responsible for a characteristic smell of oak moss (Evernia prunastri) and tree moss (Evernia furfuracea). As you surely know moss is an essential ingredient in the making of chypre fragrances. Until mid of last year neither atranol nor chloroatranol were restricted or prohibited. This is chaging now – after extensive research on IFRA side proving that both of these chemicals cause strong allergic reactions, European Commision has decided to update the law, prohibiting atranol and chloroatranol as a result, effective of August 23, 2017.

By mid 2019 only products conform to new standards can be placed on EU market and by mid 2021 all non-conform products must be removed from the market. Do you think this restriction on atranol and chloroatranol will have a negative effect in perfumery? Is chypre in danger? Do you even like chypre as a perfume family? What are your favorites? One of mine is Parfum d’Empire Azemour.

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