Tag Archives: citrus

A perfect citrus – does it exist?

Even if you’re an ‘advanced’ perfumista, it probably doesn’t happen too often that you finish a bottle of perfume. Even if you’re like me and what you have is mostly partial bottles, it’s still a quite rare phenomenon. Well… guess what! Last week I emptied my bottle of Diptyque Eau des Sens. I know it might sound weird but when you have a perfume for some years you get used to it being a part of your fragrance wardrobe. And so when it’s finished, it feels a bit like saying goodbye to a friend.

I know I wasn’t happy when I used the very last spray of Eau des Sens couple of days ago. I had this perfume for around 3 years and I still remember when I smelled it from a sample, shown it to my co-worker and that we quickly decided to buy a bottle and share it. What I truly enjoyed about this Diptyque fragrance was that it offered a beautiful equilibrium between the orange and orange blossom. It surely made many of the past summer days much more pleasant or even easier to handle when it was too hot and thanks to its scent I felt a bit cooler. I already accepted the fact that I finished this one and I now debate what to do with the bottle – throw it away to the glass container or find someone who collects empty bottles & ask if they’d like mine. (as I am not a collector of empty flacons).

As much as I enjoyed Eau des Sens I don’t think I want another bottle of the same perfume. My mind and nose are too curious to stick to one thing for longer, that’s why I’ll be on the lookout for a new citrus composition for the summer. And I’d better be quick because summer is just around the corner. This leads to my question – does a perfect citrus even exist? Almost every niche brand makes an attempt to something light & citrusy at some point, with better or worse execution.

Don’t get me wrong – I own and enjoy a couple of Atelier Cologne, like Pomelo Paradis, Cedrat Enivrant or Clementine California. To me these are the summer no-brainer fragrances. I think I’m looking for a more complex type of freshness. Looking back at fragrances that I tested recently or earlier, I’m really drawn to Ormaie Les Brumes.¬†Succus by Les Liquides Imaginaires¬†about which I wrote in 2018 was also a beautiful scent. I’m also open to any suggestions so if you think that I’m missing out by not knowing some citrus that you think it great, you must tell me about it!

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Brightest smile, Eau d’Italie Acqua Decima

During the first year of my niche perfume explorations there were many brands that didn’t get my attention. There were perfume houses I didn’t know back then, some were familiar to me but were not available locally. Finally there were brands I’ve decided to try some other time as I thought that getting more experience with more basic niche perfumes will improve my olfaction and help to appreciate the beauty of more complex creations. One of such brands was Eau d’Italie.

I really can’t tell why, but I wasn’t interested in the fragrance offer from this perfume house earlier. It was probably because most of their products didn’t sound like something that could draw attention of a budding perfumista I was. The thing changed couple of months ago when I read the announcement that Eau d’Italie will be launching their first classic citrus perfume. Knowing my love for citrus fragrances and amazing Italian style that accompanies them I just had to try Acqua Decima,¬†the 10th perfume in the brand’s offer.

Joy, sun, fun, summer, lemonade, happiness, freshness, aquapark, sea – these are just a couple of words that come to my mind while I’m wearing Eau d’Italie Acqua Decima. This magnificent fragrance reveals on my skin with a juicy and bright lemon note. It is so natural, so realistic and beautiful as if I was squeezing a real citrus. The aroma it has is slightly bitter-sweet and is absolutely mouthwatering! The great thing about it is that it never gets too screechy or acidic.

The joyful splash of lemon in Acqua Decima becomes softer after a few minutes and it gains the delicate and subtle sweetness when mandarin orange joins the composition. It’s a perfume ode to summer in my opinion. This Eau d’Italie has an incredible power to bring the brightest smile to your face. There’s so much positive energy within it – it would be a sin not to smile while wearing it.

After a while the fragrance develops some outstanding aromatic qualities. When mint appears on the scene with its glory, I start to see Acqua Decima in a different light. The perfume is now a combination of citrus and green. Lemon and mandarin are still present but mint leaf is the main player now. This note effuses a gorgeous, intensively green smell. It feels like you crushed the freshly picked leaves to prepare a delicious mojito or some other kind of refreshing or exotic cocktail to quench your thirst.

Within 60 minutes the entire minty-citrus concoction slowly evolves into something a little bit lighter. Neroli in this particular perfume is done in a soft, slightly sweet way. There’s some delicate white floral quality to it, but generally it’s the soft sweetness in Acqua Decima that marks the presence of neroli oil in the perfume blend. At some point of evolution this scent by Eau d’Italie reached a light woodsy stage. It’s not any specified kind of wood, just smooth and tender one. One thing which is sure is that it’s not any of the dark wood species. A blond wood, or a lemon tree wood maybe?

The woody quality of Eau d’Italie Acqua Decima that appears on my skin in the drydown stage of the perfume is later continued with a hint of vetiver. It’s a woody vetiver which is fine with me plus it’s similar to the vetiver in Carner Barcelona D600 which is more than fine for my personal vetiver taste. The pyramid of notes from Fragrantica mentions petitgrain as one of the middle notes but on my numerous wearings I didn’t smell it. I don’t care because the rest is fabulous!

Just like Eau d’Italie promises on the website, Acqua Decima really is a classic citrus perfume. I would say more – to me it’s one of the best citrus fragrances created ever, or at least in the last decade. It’s super pure and very realistic. It’s also pretty natural which can’t be said about many perfumes launching nowadays. It has that elegant and refined Italian style I adore. No surprise I fell in love with it so quickly. Now I have my own bottle of this impeccable beauty.

I totally agree with Mark Behnke of Cafleurebon, who called Acqua Decima a “Lemon Supernova” in his review. This new fragrance from Eau d’Italie is available in 100 ml bottles. The outer box in azure/turquoise color hides a tall bottle made of white, almost non-transparent glass. The front side of the flacon is also turquoise with big white letters forming the name of the scent. Perfumer responsible for creating it is Alberto Morillas. On my skin Acqua Decima lasts 6-8 hours and has a nice sillage. Citrus lovers – it’s a must-try for you!

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