Tag Archives: Cloon Keen Atelier

Silver Radiance, Cloon Keen Frosted Moon

Among all satellites that exist in the cosmic space I think our moon is the most beautiful one. Its silvery light with blue flickers is soothing & calming for the soul. Looking at its round face at night introduces an element of magic and mystery. I wonder if its aura has any influence on our creative abilities since there are so many songs and poems about moon. It’s a popular theme in perfume-naming – I’m quite drawn to the fragrances that use this motif. Therefore it’s natural that I wanted to smell a lunar composition from Cloon Keen Atelier. Ireland & moon are a promising pairing.

Smelling Frosted Moon is an experience comparable to entering an evergreen forest imbued with magical powers, where elves, pixies, dwarves and other mystical beings dwell. It’s like a celtic fairytale became a perfume. At the beginning I smell an aromatic verdancy that reminds me of pine or fir needles. It takes a moment until it loses that coniferous facet and becomes more stem-green. Angelica seeds give this scent an interesting opening that invites you to make another step into its imaginary land of magic. Through the roots of the same ingredient a woody impression emerges.

Woodiness that appears after first couple of minutes is muted and distant in my opinion, as if its scent was only carried by the wind. I perceive it as the scent of bark covered with patches of moss that has an emerald-green color. Carrot seed accord that appears after around 30 minutes provides a twist as because of it Frosted Moon becomes more vegetal and earthy, however without putting an accent on the carotty aspect as in Iris Silver Mist for example. Actually that note kind of reacts with my skin chemistry and transforms into a smell closer to orange or mandarine; frosted.

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When iris finally announces its presence & the name of Frosted Moon finally starts to make sense. More austere at the beginning it warms up from the skin a bit and reveals a voluptuous nature. Firstly it has more earthy character but then it melts down to a delightfully luxurious aroma of iris butter. Its richness and elegance are at top-level yet there’s nothing powerful or persistent. Whole composition of this Cloon Keen fragrance is maintained rather low-key. Which doesn’t change the fact it’s utterly charming. After some period iris becomes more silky – like a fabric, with flowery hints of violets.

Then ambrette joins the composition. This botanical musk has a possibility of introducing musky tones to the scent without reaching for lab aromachemicals that mimic animal musk. Ambrette is soft and cosy like a scarf made of wool and personally I find it rounder and less present than the other ones. Use of galbanum introduces a green snap in the base and is then followed by vetiver. Dryness and grassy impression with hint of coumarin follow the latter one. Everything is finished with small pieces of cedar wood – they add substance and a gentle yet hefty ‘spine’ to Frosted Moon.

Frosted Moon, which was composed for Cloon Keen by perfumer Delphine Thierry is a beautifully crafted scent that has something magical about it. It has a certain level of mystery about it and because it is not a powerhouse fragrance it’s more difficult to predict how the perfume is going to develop, but that’s exactly where its beauty lays. I really enjoy complexity and harmonious character of it. There’s something melancholic about it too. Frosted Moon surely has a faint glow of the moon. The line has a beautiful packaging of bottles (100 ml) having a mirror-like effect.

[note] If you experienced Cloon Keen fragrances before you might know this one as Lune de Givre.

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Defining Undefined at Pitti Fragranze 2018 – part 2

First day of this year’s Pitti Fragranze sure was exciting and packed with many meetings and a wide variety of perfume. I expected that following days won’t be any worse & in fact they were not. Each day gave me something different. Also for the first time in the history of my Fragranze attendance I was at the fair for all 3 days so I got a new perspective by seeing how the last day looks like.

On Saturday I started my olfactory investigations by visting a stand of Soul Couture. This is a new brand of Italian origins & some of my friends recommended it as worth trying. At the stand I met Michele Marin, who founded this brand and who is a perfumer behind it. He created 6 different fragrances presented in simple & elegant bottles and boxes. I especially liked Weekend Postmoderno (with spices and iris), and Gender Ginger (with citrus, ginger and rosewood). It’s also one of the very few brands that offers travel-friendly size from the very beginning.

When I was passing next to Uermi booth I noticed they have some news too so I decided to spend there a few minutes to learn about them. They worked with perfumer Alexandra Carlin to develop two new compositions: SO Satin and UR Silk 19, a rework of UR Silk introduced 5 years ago. They also had a third one for which they teamed with Maurice Roucel. OR Damask is a lush red rose that I really liked. It had a full body and from the start you could smell it’s very well blended.

Miya Shinma didn’t present any new things as she still wanted to focus on the L’Eau de Miya Shinma collection. I said ‘wanted’ because she told me that she has been robbed. She shipped all of her perfume to Florence and when she wanted to organize the stand it turned out that someone stole all of the bottles of the new collection that were inside that box. It’s more than a misfortune – to come to the fair (which is not cheap!) and to not be able to present your latest achievements. So sad.

Have you ever heard of an Irish perfume brand Cloon Keen? Well I did and many years ago I even reviewed one when I got a sample in a swap. Ever since I was curious to smell the other fragrances in their range but it just never happened because I couldn’t get samples locally. This year they came to Florence and had their stand at Fragranze 16 – I could not overlook such occasion. I talked with Margaret Mangan, creator of Cloon Keen, who guided me through fragrances and candles. I’m telling you – I liked all of the scents. Lunasa and Frosted Moon stayed in my memory for long.

On that day another interesting discussion took place in a conference hall. Title of this panel discussion was ‘Asia & You’Chandler Burr as a host and 5 different people were blind-smelling around 20 fragrances and commenting whether it’s suitable for Asian market or no. The gimmick was that Chandler asked 20 random brands exhibiting at the fair to select ‘the most Asian’ scent from their range. Then at a panel those people had to come to the scene, shortly explain why they think it fits. This was followed by smelling, commenting and at the very end the name of brand and perfume was revealed. I think it was brave of all those brands since comments were often not nice. My friend, perfumer Alex Lee was one of the panelists and later when we talked he said he didn’t feel good doing it. It surely was a challenge as he didn’t want to offend anyone.

Beaufort is not a brand that belongs to the group of my brands but I decided to give a try to their new composition mostly because their stand was shared with Atelier des Ors where my friends were. New Rake & Ruin was very much like gin – super metallic, tons of juniper, lots of smoke and animalic ingredients. Absolutely not my cup of tea but at least I gave it a try, right?

Nowadays I think that Laboratorio Olfattivo is one of those brands that just have something new any time they exhibit, meaning new things are added to their range twice a year at least. After introducing a handy 30 ml bottle as well as travel kits (2 x 15 ml) now they presented a new perfume. Its name is Sacreste and it’s composed by Luca Maffei. The scent itself is very incensy but with a lot of warm oriental elements like saffron, cardamom, amber. It’s nice but not very new in terms of idea.

One of the completely new brands that appeared inside of Stazione Leopolda was Maison Rebatchi. For their debut they launched 4 fragrances but even if I’m alone in my impression I’m going to say it was a let-down. The bottles look kind of like boutique collection from Dior. Each scent was done by different perfumer and even if one of them was Bertrand Duchaufour didn’t convince me. And people there seemed annoyed they have to talk to me. I quickly lost my initial interest.

Dusita with Pissara Umavijani at its front was busy all the time but I managed to have a few minutes with her. Current focus is still on Erawan of course but Pissara let me smell the fragrance she’s been working on and which she’d like to launch in spring. Oh boy, it was very good, quite different from her previous creations… and it has a lot of iris! At Andy Tauer’s stand Les Annees 25 was the newest perfume but Andy also had his 2 candles (they just launched!) that I could smell. Extrait d’Atelier still focuses on Maitre Ceramiste – not rushing things is always good in perfumery.

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In the evening many of us went to a street party celebrating the opening of Campomarzio70 boutique at it’s new location in Florence. It was super crowded and we had to be careful because taxis and buses kept passing through. Afterwards I was supposed to get something to eat together with Nick Steward but the word spread and I actually started gathering people to come with us. We ended up having a fantastic dinner for 10 people. That’s it for day 2. Normally I would pack but not this time!

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