Tag Archives: Cologne Absolue

Spell of Esmeralda, Atelier Cologne Emeraude Agar

Somewhere in my consciousness I have it coded that every season of the year is associated with its unique color palette. I know it’s still Autumn technically but since it’s beginning to look a lot like Christmas around and temperatures are dropping lately I think of current day like it was Winter. Because of the festive season to me Winter is colored with silver, red (preferably in burgundy shade) but most of all – with green. I’ve been obsessed with dark green for many years, it was always my desire to own some clothes¬†in a color of dark green glass (like this). When I noticed a new new Atelier Cologne I was attracted by the label but the juice attracted me too!

emeraude-petit

Emeraude Agar said “hello” to me with a tangy bergamot that is filled with tart, aromatic scent. It was literally a peak from behind the corner because not even 1 minute later the note was surrounded with a handful of black pepper. This dashing, straightforward aroma managed to engulf bergamot with very little effort. Pepper in this cologne absolue is quite piquant, with a lightly metallic edge and a big portion of warmth. There’s also something aromatic about it as the smell goes deep inside your nose, so don’t be surprised if you go a-choo upon first encounter with this new Atelier Cologne.

Later on angelica floats up to the top of the composition, effusing it’s warm, green-tinged aroma that develops on my skin into something slightly vegetal & rooty. Even though Emeraude Agar is quite a heavy perfume it doesn’t lack its cologne-DNA origins. Heart of the composition is fresh in a camphorous way. The perfume contains eucalyptus – blended with other notes it gives me an impression of mint and incense at the same time. I know it doesn’t make sense but to me it’s a fresh encens accord. Definitely not churchy but much more airy and ethereal. Subtle too.

Geranium note is introduced after a while. You won’t miss its presence as it spreads the smell of dewy, green & aromatic leaves that make a specific crunchy sound when you break them. They also give a sappy smell of plant juice that blends nicely with eucalyptus – this adds even more freshness. At some point geranium transforms into more floral version of itself and that seamlessly becomes a Turkish rose accord. Its absolue used in Atelier Cologne Emeraude Agar is a rich and oily, definitely suitable for oriental connotations such as this perfume.

emeraude-agar

Rose in this latest cologne absolue behaves like a chameleon, it changes its shape multiple times during a single wear. Upon appearing first it smells of high quality rose oil, but then it becomes more spicy that it makes me think of carnations! This goes even further on my skin and there is a moment where I’d swear that I was detecting lots of saffron instead of rose. No matter what it is, it smells absolutely divine and mesmerizing. There’s something dry about this stage but this dryness is very inviting and embracing. Well, Emeraude Agar doesn’t fail even a bit to impress me.

Over the next 4-5 hours the perfume maintained its warm character built from the combination of spicy pepper, rich rose and some other notes. After that time has passed the woodiness steps up to the next level by becoming even more accentuated. I mean woody notes were standing out earlier already but now they cut above other notes even higher. Emeraude Agar offers you a lot of Mysore sandalwood – a precious and rare material. In this particular case it possesses a quality of roughness. It’s a bulky piece of wood that hasn’t been polished or processed by humans.

emeraude

Sandalwood is then followed by gaiac wood – it brings a dark nature of wood, that is smoky & resinous. Substantivity of this accord quickly steps out to the front row, leaving other notes behind. Moreover this emerald gem wouldn’t be complete without a final facet of Malayan oud. Fret not, it doesn’t smell overwhelming of gooey. It has a slightly medicinal, camphorous undertone but primarily it smells balsamic and smoky. All of the notes of Emeraude Agar combine in a fantastic perfume. The notes entwine, play with each other. As the time goes by some different nuances become visible. Great to see that acquisition by L’Oreal didn’t stop them from doing quality stuff. Their level is still very high and I’m happy about it.

Emeraude Agar, developed for Atelier Cologne by perfumer Jerome Epinette¬†is a cologne absolue (pure perfume) that contains 18% of fragrance oil. It’s longevity and sillage are very good. The perfume is totally unisex but it tends to veer a bit more masculine way. The fragrance is available in a coffret with 200 ml bottle or separately as a 100 ml or 30 ml bottle. The flacon is covered with a thin layer of gold that beautifully compliments the green color of the label..

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To friendship! Atelier Cologne Cedrat Enivrant

Thanks to Atelier Cologne a brand new idea of making perfumes appeared in the PerfumeLand. Since 2010, when this perfume house came up with a cologne absolue concept, basing on a traditional eau de cologne but adding it more depth with precious raw materials and longevity by raising concentration to 15% or more – they added a modern twist to a classic theme. They gained a group of fans with their hard work for making great scents. Now they’re presenting a new addition to their line – Cedrat Enivrant – an homage to sunny citrus, cedrat (citron, etrog.)

The composition of Atelier Cologne Cedrat Enivrant starts with a hefty dose of lime. It’s so juicy and mouth-watering that it’s hard not to drool over it. The note also has a nice portion of zest that adds some refreshing acidity to the blend. Moreover lime accord smells so natural and realistic in this perfume that probably only squeezing an actual lime in your hand could give a similar olfactory impression. Lime is a single player for 20 minutes, then the perfume begins to transmute.

Next comes the mint accord starting an aromatic phase in the new Atelier Cologne creation. Mint is not especially fresh here, it provides more of an herbal vibe combined with the green smell of crushed leaves and a sap. At this point the lime accord becomes more full-bodied and cedrat makes an entrance. At the beginning it’s very quiet and combined with mint it smells clear. Once it starts to develop you can notice no more no less than four totally different aspects of this citrus.

First you can notice the aromatic aspect of the rind, flavoured with some sour tasting sprinkles. This lasts for 15 minutes. Secondly there’s a smell that is typical to the white albedo part of the citrus fruit. It has a mild scent making me think of vitamin C hot drinks and there’s also a pale powdery quality keeping around this stage. 10 minutes and it’s over. Then mint seems to become a little bit stronger than it was. Now it’s like a mojito, sparkling like bubbles in the fizzy water.

As the 3rd element of citron you get the actual fruit pulp. It smells like some kind of a tropical smoothie and is very similar to Orange Sanguine. This feeling subsides after 15 minutes. The last part of cedrat in Cedrat Enivrant is the juice. It has a lovely smell that balances between sweet and sour elements. This part of the fragrance has an additional portion of juiciness! There’s a shot of bergamot all over it, introducing the lovely vibe that is aromatic and citric at the same time.

When the first hour is gone Cedrat Enivrant starts to develop a new quality. There are fresh spicy notes that come to the front now. Among them – basil. It effuses a nice portion of green freshness entwined with the spicy aspect of the plant leaves. Herbacious feeling is also a part of the note. It makes me want to enjoy the basilic accord when it’s done like in this fragrance. Eau d’Italie Jardin du Poete has a similar basil accord. At 1,5 hours woody notes appear in the composition of this cologne absolue.

The molecules building a vetiver accord in Atelier Cologne Cedrat Enivrant are handled in a careful way in my opinion. The accord is done in my favourite way because for most of the time the note is kept in a woody style. The aroma it gives is substantial and its dry style suggests the impression similar to the one given by gin. It doesn’t smell of alcohol but it brings that cool and chilly, refreshing vibe of a drink. Juniper berries accord pairs with gin in a fantastic way, adding it an aromatic-metalic edge. This combination of cedrat, gin-like vetiver and juniper lasts for a good couple of hours.

After four more hours the metal cold vibe is put aside and the perfume enters the drydown. Vetiver is a little bit more earthy with a rooty feel to it. The density is added with the elemi resin – it makes Cedrat Enivrant more balmy and it causes that this perfume shouldn’t and cannot be considered a “one more cologne.” No! This Atelier Cologne is quite far from the traditional cologne style. Sure it has citrus but it’s rendered in a non-typical way. As the final, tonka bean adds warmth and spiciness to the fragrant pyramid of this perfume. The lasting power is beyond amazing!

Cedrat Enivrant was inspired by a French 75 cocktail, made with gin, champagne, lemon juice and sugar. The beverage got its name from the French 75mm field gun, as the combination was said to have such powerful kick. The perfume certainly has a kick of positive energy. It is also a toast to friendship and cherished moments of spending time with the friends. Let’s toast those we call our friends!

As the sun set on the beach, they were all together again. Full of emotions, they could not stop talking. Had it really been so long? They shared many memories and another round of French 75s with laughter and tears in their eyes. No one wanted the night to end. As the sun rose, it was a sparkling moment of absolue friendship.

It was Ralph Schwieger who blended Cedrat Enivrant for Atelier Cologne. This cologne absolue is concentrated at 15% (concentration of eau de parfum) – it has a really great sillage, leaving a scented trace behind the wearer. The longevity is +10 hours. I know that now it’s not a perfect time to wear scents like this but I suppose this fragrance would work even better when it gets warm.

The composition was introduced for the first time on December 23rd 2013 and is now available in a couple of selected stores – it will be widely available since March, so I’m going to treat it as a perfume released in 2014. Cedrat Enivrant (“Intoxicating Cedrat”) comes in 30ml, 100ml and 200ml bottles with a lime green label. The big bottles have a cap wrapped with leather. To me this is a lovely, sophisticated and sparkling perfume. Will be perfect for summer.

[note] Many thanks to Atelier Cologne for providing the scent. Pictures: my own. All rights reserved.

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