Tag Archives: Cologne Absolue

Tender kiss, Atelier Cologne Silver Iris

Collection Métal is a new perfume project from Sylvie Ganter and Christopher Cervasel. This young brand (est. 2010) still keeps on amusing us with new and fresh ideas. No surprise Atelier Cologne quickly got a faithful group of fans with me being one of them. Concept of Collection Métal brings new quality to the line. Few days ago you could discover Gold Leather with me, now it’s time for iris.

Silver Iris blooms on my skin with a lovely, sweet smell of tangerine. This accord is soft, gentle and muted instead of being too powerful as for the opening note. To me it has a really natural feeling. You can detect the light juiciness of the pulp, as well as the slightly acidic aroma of the peel. After 15-20 minutes of wearing the perfume new aromas start to appear few inches above my skin. From now on this new Cologne Absolue mesmerizes me until the very end, until it fades away.

The first one that was clearly noticed by me was a fruity note of black currant. It’s juicy and mouth-watering, like someone just harvested it. There’s also something tart about it. Black currant’s tartiness counters the light sweetness of tangerine and introduces a good balance to the opening stage of Silver Iris. Without this accord the opening would be too simple, but it is here and it really changes the character of the first impression I get smelling this composition.

At the 40 minutes mark this new offering from Atelier Cologne develops a delicate spicy vibe. Pink pepper blends really nicely with a balanced composition of black currant and tangerine. It brings something new to the scent but it doesn’t break the harmony in the opening, it maintains it. When the clock shows that I’m wearing Silver Iris for almost one hour the fragrance starts to change, it evolves. A beautiful and soft, powdery feeling appears around my body and embraces it. Iris shines brightly in this perfume, leaving no delusions in terms who is the most important here. I can almost sense the silky quality of iris petals surrounding me.

But this iris ain’t just a powdery one. There’s also a floral aspect to the note brought to the composition with the use of mimosa. After a while one can spot a yellow flowers scent evoking the smell of pollen, that’s also mimosa doing. This floral stage doesn’t last very long on my skin as 20 minutes later there’s another shift in the smell of Silver Iris. Now it turns kind of fresh with an uprising odour of violet leaf. This certain note introduces crispy and crunchy vibe to the Atelier Cologne creation. This crispiness makes it more versatile for cooler months.

After 3 hours when I smell my arm what I get is a lovely powdery iris but now it also has a slightly rooty facet and a buttery feeling accompanies the note. What makes me keep inhaling greedily with nose stuck to the wrist is the fact that I detect something that truly reminds me of nice suede accord. There’s something soft and plushy there, whatever it is, it’s gorgeous.

Two more hours and Silver Iris gets closer to the drydown. In this phase of development there’s a lot of creamy and fluffy musk. It’s not clean and not soapy but kind of sweet, like a cotton candy. White amber brings more sensuality to the perfume. This note is also responsible for giving a warm, honeyed like sensation. I love this drydown, I think it will reveal its best aspects in the autumn chill. In the basenotes there’s also patchouli listed but I couldn’t smell it. It was either used in a really small dose or it blended with other notes so well that it became impossible to pick it out of the mixture.

With Silver Iris Atelier Cologne tell a story of independent woman looking for life stability.

A woman of such intimidating beauty and sparkling vitality gained the adoration of everyone around her. However, no one knew what she had been through. With her wild spirit, she was tough, stronger than metal, and never looked back. When she met him, for the first time in her life, she could stand still. She may have found the absolu man.

In case of Silver Iris, it was also created by Jerome Epinette. This Cologne Absolue features notes of tangerine, black currant, pink pepper, violet leaf, iris pallida, mimosa, pachouli, tonka and white amber. Just like Gold Leather, it is also concentrated at 18% of perfume oils.

I find Atelier Cologne Silver Iris to be a beautiful and well made perfume. Its development is slower comparing to Gold Leather, it’s sillage is minimally smaller but the longevity remains at the same level of around 12 hours in my case. Bottle of Silver Iris is covered with real silver. The fragrance is available as a 100ml bottle or in a coffret of 200ml + 30ml petit flacon with a leather pouch. Scented soap and perfumed candle will be also in stock for those who like to pamper their senses.

[note] sample of Silver Iris was a gift from Atelier Cologne. Thank you Donatien!

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Would bathe in it, Atelier Cologne Grand Néroli

When Atelier Cologne appeared in the Perfume Land in 2010 it quickly got in the center of attention. Their innovative concept of creating cologne absolues – fragrances based on the traditional and classy citrus cologne with different ingredients blended into the composition with a concentration level of 15% or more (which actually makes them eau de parfums). This strategy was a real key to success! The scents are so well and wisely done that they’re almost impossible to dislike. One of my earliest favorites from Atelier Cologne is a neroli-centered Grand Neroli. This invigorating and happy fragrance should be use with abandon, I would bathe in it, seriously!

One more thing next to Atelier Cologne fragrances that I really fancy is the ad-copy, the short story the brand creates for each Cologne Absolue. Here’s the one that accompanies Grand Neroli:

“The windows were thrown open to let in the afternoon sun, along with a breeze of orange blossoms. She secured fresh flowers into her hair and her eyes sparkled with excitement and anticipation. She had been a whirl of precise motion in her final preparation and took pause to dream about the moment to come.”

On my skin Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli opens with an uplifting and sheer smell of neroli. It has that beautiful and soft, delicate texture. It’s like the smell of white flower petals the moment the Sun awakes in the morning to announce the beginning of a new day. The ground is still cold and everything is covered with dew drops. That’s the refreshing feel I get from the first waft of this scent.

Very shortly the Cologne Absolue develops a green and aromatic smell of orange leaves – petitgrain gives a crispy feeling to the scent with its rustling foliage. This aromatic and truly mediterranean note brings a smile to my face. At the very start of Grand Neroli there’s also a bright smell of citrus which immediately disappears – it returns after ten minutes. Combined bergamots and lemons come back with a juicy and slightly sweet, slightly sour smell, not as bright as in the opening though.

After around 25 minutes, when the entire smell of citrus and almost whole neroli dissipate, Grand Neroli takes a turn and starts to walk the woody path. Woods in this particular perfume composition are very light, both in intensity and color. They’re rather smooth, like a drift wood rounded by the waves of the ocean. There’s a great twist to this fragrance in the form of oakmoss.

One doesn’t often find oakmoss in neroli-centered perfume. Here, it fits in perfectly bringing the raw and a little bit rough feeling of the forest and shrub. Galbanum adds density to Grand Neroli and it also make the oakmoss really stand out for a while in the composition. I might not be a great fan of this resin but I found this Atelier Cologne perfume to be a hit for me, no matter what’s inside of it.

Woodsy feeling is continued for a little while longer with a birch leaf. While I was testing this fragrance the woody stage lasted on my skin for around 45 minutes to 1 hour, quite long, don’t you think? When it reaches its drydown, which happens at the moment of 2 – 2,5 hours on my skin the scent mellows. It becomes much softer and it quiets down. It also warms up.

Now cosy and soft musk hovers just few centimeters above my body, embracing with an invisible veil. White amber brings more sensuality and makes me feel very comfortable with Grand Neroli. A hint of vanilla sweetness tops the composition, leaving me in a fragrant heaven. To be honest with you, this Atelier Cologne scent is a dream. It’s unpretentious, complex enough to draw attention but not too complex to twist your brain or make you tired. It feels perfect wearing this Cologne Absolue.

To me Grand Neroli is a great choice for summer. You can spray it in the morning and then go to the beach, go sightseeing. You can also wear it to a party in the summer club. It’s concentrated at 15% and it’s rather light. Its sillage isn’t very big and longevity is around 4-5 hours. Don’t be afraid, be generous to yourself and spray a lot of it. It’s sheer and transparent veil is also perfect for re-applying during a day. A spritz here and there will make you feel refreshed and with more energy.

Grand Neroli, created for Atelier Cologne by Cecile Krakower was launched in 2010. It’s available in many different sizes and options. You can have it in 200ml and 100ml bottles, as a 30ml petit flacon, as a 7,5ml travel spray (available only in voyage set with 6 other Cologne Absolues). To pamper your body you can purchase a soap scented with Grand Neroli or you can introduce this great fragrance to your house with a candle. Samples and sample sets are also available on-site.

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