Tag Archives: cosmetics

Facts & myths on sunbathing

We are in the middle of the summer and many of those who are currently on summer vacation chose seaside as their holiday destination – be it a local, Baltic Sea in case of Poland or some more distant place at Cote d’Azur for example. Couple of weeks ago I went cycling and decided to take a little break and drink some water nearby the lake. Consciously or not I overheard a conversation between two women, around 30-years-old. They were talking about the sunbathing product for a while but they got it all wrong. Which inspired me to write this post.

The discussion about doing sunbathing right should start with explanation of the structure of solar radiation and how it can influence our bodies. The Sun radiation that reaches our planet covers the wavelengths between 100 nm and 1 mm which is pretty broad. The shortest wavelengths region, which is also the most energetic one is the Ultraviolet. This part of the radiation can be further divided into UVC (Ultraviolet C) – it is mostly absorbed by the atmosphere of the Earth and it almost doesn’t reach the surface of our planet. UVC is invisible to the human eye, it also has germicidal properties.

Next is UVB (Ultraviolet B) which is also absorbed by the atmosphere in the vast percentage. However the UVB radiation that reaches us is responsible for sunburns and it can directly damage the DNA of your body cells. Ultraviolet A (UVA) was once believed to be less harmful to us than UVB but nowadays it it’s the A part of Ultraviolet spectrum that is considered the most dangerous. UVA doesn’t affect our skin DNA directly. It does it by producing free radicals and reactive oxygen species. Those two are like small bombs invisible to our eyes. They bombard out bodies causing chain reactions that are hard to stop. In result a cell DNA can mutate and start replicating itself – that leads to cancer. Interesting thing is that this same UVA radiation is used for artificial tanning! Also due to the lower energy, the UVB part of the spectrum doesn’t penetrate our skin deeply while more energetic UVA has the power to penetrate deeper parts of our skin, where it can damage our collagen and elastin fibrils – leading to photo-aging after years.

Between 380 nm and 780 nm is the visible part of the solar spectrum and you can see it with your eyes. This part of the spectrum is the strongest one when it comes to irridiance. Lastly there’s Infrared covering the part between around 700 nm and 1 mm. It’s an important part of electromagnetic radiation reaching the Earth. Our bodies feel this part of the spectrum as the warmth sensation. Infrared can be also grouped into A, B and C type. Now you know what is what in the solar spectrum and how it affects our cells in a harmful and dangerous way.

I have met with a general public opinion that many people think that you should protect your skin from the direct sunlight only in the summer when the sunlight is the most intensive and most direct. Wrong! The sun shines all year round. No matter if you can see it in the sky, or if it’s covered by a thick layer of clouds or even if it’s raining, the radiation from the Sun reaches the Earth and affects us. The radiation can be also reflected from plain and shiny surfaces like water or snow. This means that we should think about the proper skin protection not only in the summer but also in spring, autumn and winter. Remember – it’s for your own sake!

Cosmetic products dedicated to sunbathing, which are meant to be a protection from the sunlight, should be “equipped” with sun protection factor, SPF in abbreviation. Many people are mistaken thinking that the higher is the number of the SPF they’re using, the more safe they are during bathing in the sun. That is both true and false. It’s true that higher SPF values provide a better protection but the number on the sunblocker bottle isn’t equivalent to the percentage of how well protected we are. SPF 100 doesn’t give 100% of safe fun in the sun.

Such thing as 100% of sunblocking protection doesn’t exist, even in the current advanced state of cosmetics chemistry. No one has invented the substance that will ensure that we won’t get affected by the Ultraviolet radiation from the sun. The number following the SPF on the packaging of your sunscreen tells you how many times longer will your safe sunbathing time be. What is that “safe sunbathing sun” you might wonder. It’s the amount of time that passes from the moment you expose your skin to the sun without sun protection to the moment until you observe first symptoms of your skin turning to the defence position – when it becomes locally red. So if your skin turns red from the sun after 15 minutes, SPF 20 will allow you to stay longer in the sun for 20 times. Scientists and cosmetologist still argue if this is actually true or not as researches prove differently.

Now that we’re speaking about the sun protection factor, you should also know that there are two categories of substances that can protect us from the harmful UV radiation we’re exposed to every day. First category are physical filters, also known as mineral or inorganic filters. Two chemicals are currently used in this group and these are titanium dioxideTiO2 and zinc oxideZnO. Both are commercially available in a form of white powder. If in the past you once used a sun cream which despite long rubbing-in always left a thin white layer on the skin – you were using a cream with a physical filter. Nowadays the white marks from mineral filters are not an issue because particles of these oxides have nano-size and are not visible to human eyes.

The protective mechanism of physical filters is to reflect the harmful radiation of the UV spectrum. Those filters don’t irritate skin and have high photostability. The only problem with them is that they can’t be used alone in the final product. They need to be accompanied by silicones, fatty acids or oxides of aluminium or zirconium to fulfill their role. The second group of UV filters are chemical filters. These are specific compounds, in practise all of them are organic, which protect our skin cells by absorbing the radiation of a specific wavelength or the range of wavelengths. All these protective molecules have a lot of double and triple bonds. To this group you can count in the synthetic derivatives of: para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, anthranilic acid, benzophenones, camphor derivatives, benzoilmethane and others. Most often used are octocrylene, drometrizole trisiloxane, avobenzone. Sunscreen products should contain at least 3-4 of them to provide the right level of protection against the sun.

Sun protection specifics should be picked carefully and specifically for the person that will be using them. Skin of every one of us is different and has its very own phototype, in other words we’re speaking of complexion. People with light carnation should choose higher SPF factors than those of darner carnation. Red-haired people have especially low levels of melanin in their skin and should be extra careful while spending time in the sun. Picking an SPF 30 product will provide you with 98% of absorbed UV radiation. There is also a group of natural products and extracts such as shea butter, argan oil, beta-caroten, lycopene, aloe vera or green tea extracts that are capable of stopping the chain reactions caused by radicals, lowering the damage done to your skin.

The final question is – what kind of cosmetic products with SPF should you choose. The answer to that isn’t complicated. Lotions, creams and milks are the best due to their consistency and other ingredients that also nurture your skin. Most of these products are also waterproof. But they sometimes can leave a sticky layer on top of your skin. If that is a problem for you try using sunbathing oils with a proper sun protection factor. Those are dry oils which will evaporate few minutes after application, they will leave shiny and non-sticky layer on your skin. Many people, especially ladies like them because they optically make your skin look more darker. Shiny surface also presents the body shape better. It’s better to re-apply them after taking a dive into the water.

Marketing tip – your sunblocker doesn’t have to be expensive. Actually it’s better to decide on one which is from the middle-priced shelf as in this segment of the market the competition is the highest and brands have to try their hardest to offer a product that will make you come back for another bottle when you run out. I hope that this post taught you a lesson and that you learned something new and valuable. Sun is for everyone and you can’t hide from it for your entire life that’s why you should profit from exposing some bare skin to the sun but in a healthy and most of all, safe way.

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Fear of the unknown… About parabens

Cosmetic products are inseparable part of our lives. Milions of soaps, shower gels, creams, moisturizers and make-up are used daily. We might not even notice how often we reach for cosmetics every day but it’s a normal thing to do in this world where hygene and body care are really important. Most of us heard of parabens at least once in their lives, what more, some of us are afraid of parabens. But do they know what parabens are? I bet in most cases the answer would be “no.” I’m gonna change this state today and educate you a little.

Parabenens is the general name for the group of organic chemical compounds based on para-hydroxybenzoic acid. If we replace hydrogen H in -COOH group with an alkyl or organic ring R we obtain esther, para-hydroxybenzoate, thus paraben. Many different parabens are known as R can be a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl… group. What is the main purpose of adding parabens into cosmetics? It fulfills a role of preservative and antimicrobal agent so that our creams, gels etc can stand on shop or bathroom shelves and stay in good condition for many months.

But why are people afraid of them? I believe it’s the fear of the unknown, they just don’t know what parabens really are. These substances not only appear in cosmetic products but they can be also found in cakes, juices, jams or even fresh blueberries. Many people think that parabens are toxic and that they need to be avoided. They’re not right. Studies show that parabens are rapidly absorbed, metabolized and then they leave our organisms, causing no harm. Nothing to be afraid of.

Although parabens seem to be neutral for our bodies there’s one thing that eventually can happen. Parabens can cause skin allergy reaction, rosacea or contact dermatitis. As always it all depends on the skin we have and personal predispositions. Some people have more delicate, allergy prone skin comparing with others. Part about might sound scary but applies only to a very small percentage of population.

Few years ago people started to panic when news around the world appeared stating that higher concentrations of parabens in our bodies can cause mutations in body cells and cause cancer. Many cosmetological, pharmaceutical and medical researches were conducted – all had the same conclusion – there’s no link between parabens and cancer. It was a false alarm but still many people live thinking of parabens as of something that will slowly kill them. They could use some education in this topic and finally learn that they’re fooling themselves which is not a solution of a problem.

Highest amounts of parabens are used in deodorants, still it’s less than 0,5% in the product. During the last few years eco cosmetics became very popular. They’re environment friendly, contain more natural essences and are paraben free (so they have to be used faster.) Once in a while new ecological cosmetic brand appears and existing ones add new products to their offers. If you’re still afraid of parabens give those cosmetics a try, if you’re not afraid of these chemical substances you can always try some eco cosmetics and see if your skin can notice any differences between regular and eco product. I’d love to hear about it if it will!

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