Tag Archives: Cuirs Nomades

Scorched Ground, Memo Sicilian Leather

Do you think that Covid pandemic will permanently change our habits & behaviors? I have been vaccinated with both doses of Pfizer vaccine but still there’s a lot of hesitation inside me when it comes to go back to travelling abroad. For now I’m still staying on a safer side and limit my voyages to the ones within Poland. Especially that the shadow of the 4th wave is looming nearby. Of course I miss friends who live abroad and I miss the opportunity to try so many new fragrances at the perfume shows but it is what it is. That’s why I was happy to see Memo introduce Sicilian Leather – a promise of wonderful trip without leaving home. Does it smell like one of my past summers?

Smelling Sicilian Leather really does bring back memories of my past vacations. On my skin the leathery tones come righ up but they are not the only ones that my nose can pick up. Tangy citrus notes brighten up the opening like the rising sun – a symbol of Sicily. Bitter orange with its mouth-watering juiciness starts an energetic dance when Italian bergamot & lime join this magnificent performance of smells. I feel caught in a vortex of yellow, orange and green-ish hues as my nose registers the hesperidic smells of various type. Some of them are more zesty, the others are more dry like a gin. But at least for me it’s that beautiful orange scent that leads the rest of the notes.

Not much later the bright citrus opening becomes more low-key and at that point some spicy notes become more pronounced. Coriander and cardamom introduce a grainy texture to Sicilian Leather and they make the perfume venture into spicy direction in a way that feels very dry to my nose. When I smell it what comes to my mind is the smell of old paper, old books, parchment but also of the cracked clay ground that has been scorched by the Mediterranean sun. It’s a specific type of smell but to me it’s very pleasant and what I think better defines this new fragrance as “sicilian”.

Over time the character of Memo Sicilian Leather shifts its character towards more aromatic side. Balsam fir is what gives this perfume more dimension as depth by emanating the slightly coniferous smell that I perceive as “warm & cold” at once. It’s warm because the noter per se is quite balsamic and enveloping. Cold because it gives me this weird feeling of solitude in the dark & deep forest. Violet leaf breaks away from this vision as it introduces a fresh verdancy, a crunchy and dewy smell of the flower leaves. There’s something elegant and sophisticated about it, I must admit.

The drydown of this composition is when the leather accord really shines. The leather becomes particularly soft and suede-like in Sicilian Leather but there’s also something a bit rough and austere to it. It certainly does carry the scent reminiscent of tanning and colorants. The scent is rich but not overpowered – and it smells like a brand new bag from an expensive artisan. Cedarwood gives more density while gaiac wood provides an effect that I’d compare with waxing. The scent is woody, deep but also oily, with some heft. Patchouli introduces some earthiness that is a fitting effect for a perfume of this sort. Akigalawood which is a woody-patchouli molecule completes the picture.

I was writing this review on a particularly ugly day – it was raining heavily and the temperature dropped by 10 degrees compared to the previous day. It really made me wonder if the end of summery weather is near. Sicilian Leather from Memo and perfumer Yann Vasnier rekindled the memories of super hot days I spent in Taormina, Palermo or at the hills of Etna couple of years ago. I’m grateful any perfume that has the ability to brighten up the day and make you feel warm when it’s cold. Whenever I’ll want to remember those days again I’ll reach for Sicilian Leather, it’s such a great fragrance. (but Italian Leather still remains my number one among Cuirs Nomades series)

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Colors of the Wind, Memo Morrocan Leather

I have never been to Morocco but it’s definitely one of the countries from my to-visit list. Actually my parents went there for holidays this year & they absolutely loved it. Morocco is also one of those places that are relatively close to most European countries and that serves as a ‘gate’ to a whole new world. Different culture, cuisine, architecture. Not that I am a connoisseur of the latter but even I was familiar with traditional moroccan tiles, mosaics and arabesques. Latest addition to the Cuirs Nomades collection from Memo Paris explores Morocco vivid colors & intricate patterns.

Experiencing Morrocan Leather for the first time is like running head-on towards a wall of galbanum & there’s no way it would break once you hit it. Green molecules are absolutely overwhelming to the point of inducing some ofactive dizziness. I would describe this smell as sappy, heady and narcotic. On one hand it makes me think of snapped twigs only to evoke green vines of a tropical forest on the other hand. There’s also something humid to the galbanum note and the way it’s been presented. It takes some time but the verdancy finally subsides (not completely), giving way to a note of ginger.

Appearance of a new olfactive stimulus offers a new angle to look at this fragrance from a different perspective. Ginger in Morrocan Leather isn’t as lemony as it could but it still has its usual effervescence that brings more life to this perfume. At the same time it’s worth mentioning that to my nose it’s a bit dry & due to that its spiciness feels kind of prickly, if I may say so. As a back note we have a hint of tangy mandarin and some orange blossom. The latter one smells as if its fresh aspect was abandoned and only heavier – more oily and saturated molecules made it into the bottle.

Overall feeling of spiciness lasts and lasts, changing its shape several times yet still maintaining an equilibrium of green galbanum and tingling spices. Heart of Memo Moroccan Leather steps in after 2-3 hours. It’s easy to notice because the perfume moves away from the verdant in its large part in order to let the flower fully bloom. Ylang-ylang takes the lead, effusing the solar smell reminiscent of jasmine but which is definitely more creamy & lactonic, evoking a tropical paradise through its warmth and sensual aura. Beforehand the perfume felt close, hermetic; now it’s opening up.

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Coming up next we have my favorite part of Morrocan Leather – the iris. Present in the composition in an exquisite form of a butter, it elevates the scent, giving it a new quality. Through its buttery facets the perfume feels as if it was melting on your skin, hugging it with the most embracing, luxurious fragrance. I can detect elements of earthy and rooty iris goodness entwined with silky floral nuances and a hint of chocolate-y sweetness. And all together they smell balsamic on skin. As hours pass a powdery impression appears on skin and leads the way towards the accords of the base.

Viscous like an ointment, cypress revives a green impression that links top and base of Moroccan Leather. Leather itself is somewhere in between raw and untreated & pret-a-porter. It has some dusty, powdery fuziness but also a sulphuric vibe of a workshop. To me it smells like inside of a new leather bag. Styrax together with ambrox react on skin giving off a warm, balsamic and almost incensy cloud. Vetiver is like a seam that holds everything together while musk – dusty, decadent and slightly animalic results in a sultry, seductive waft. There’s also tonka for that aromatic volume.

While preparing a review of Memo Moroccan Leather I realized that it reminds me of another perfume from the same brand, namely Italian Leather. Both of these fumes exert green notes that later reveal leather and iris. But where Italian Leather was more crisp and had that dolce effect, Moroccan Leather was more balmy. The latter one is also greener in general. Like any other Memo Paris fragrance, Moroccan Leather was also composed by perfumer Alienor Massenet. A 75 ml bottle of this eau de parfum is adorned with flying hawk & moroccan geometric pattern.

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