Blossom Love is the newest creation from Amouage & joins Lilac Love in brand’s Secret Garden Collection. This new perfume opens with a generous dose of cherry blossom. At first their aroma is very pale and transparent, ethereal and dewy but it takes less than 5 minutes until it starts to become more and more sweet. At some point the floral aroma of sakura blossom smells not like flower anymore but more like a liquor. Amaretto accord gives it the vibe of sweet and syrupy almond and that is followed by a hefty amount of vanilla pudding. Tonka bean and heliotrope add a creamy, powdery facet that has more of an oriental vibe. But the perfume is still sweet. Takes more time for suede and amber to appear, these 2 notes temper the sweetness to a non-diabetes level. Additional notes include ylang, rose and bergamot. To me this whole composition smells as if I opened a can of candied fruit immersed in a sweet and sticky syrup. Generally speaking there’s too much sugar for my taste.
Among recent fragrance developments by D.S. & Durga one that I managed to try is called White Peacock Lily. This composition opens with an easy to love, mouth-watering grapefruit that is sweet and juicy (therefore more like pomelo). In a blink of an eye it gains a lovely powdery facet that somehow made me think of powder detergent but a very good one. Like a fragrance of your childhood clothes, a fragrance that you’ll hold dear for your whole life. Then the composition becomes really creamy thanks to lily, which is really full-bodied here. Despite being fully present it doesn’t weight much. Blending it with watery notes and jasmine turned it into a concoction of breezy white flowers that are reminiscent of a warm wind on a summer day. Later there is ambrette and whipped cream for an interesting sweet musk facet. Vanilla and violet provide a long-lasting powderness that completes the composition. Additional notes include Nerium Oleander and Cabreuva, it’s my first time I see those ingredients in a perfume so I’m not familiar with their smell.
In 2015 Berdoues launched a new collection of Cologne Grand Cru with Arz el-Rab among them. Even thought these fragrances were introduced 2 years ago I haven’t had a chance to sniff a single one of them until March 2017, when I met the brand as one of exhibitors at Esxence. Arz el-Rab is being described by online perfume databases as a 3-notes-composition. It indeed is simple. The opening is a handful of ginger that keeps on changing for a while. At first it’s citric, almost like someone was squeezing a whole lemon next to you. Then it becomes more fizzy like bubbles of a sparkling water. It also has a ginger ale effect that gradually becomes more spicy, a tad more dry, even powdery at some point. Heart of the composition is the iris. Honestly I could mostly smell ginger but if that woody, earthy element that I detected, was an iris – then let it be. Body of the fragrance is a solid cedar. Not a raw wood trunk, a board – freshly cut, with a smell that people describe as “pencil shavings”. It has roughness and rigidity but at least it doesn’t smell of sweat. It’s a wood accord alright. Full evolution span is circa 1 hour and from that point it remains steady, except of losing its intensity of course. Good perfume for a summer refreshment in the evening.