Tag Archives: Daniela Roche-Andrier

White as snow, Prada Infusion d’Amande

Over the years of writing Chemist in the Bottle it’s become an unspoken tradition that in early days of January I write about one of fragrances by Prada as my first review of the year. Just like each new year provides a fresh start to all of us I use this opportunity to remind myself that it was Prada, more precisely Amber Pour Homme that gave me a start to what began as a hobby and now became the biggest passion of my life – perfume. It’s also a good way to introduce you to yet another creation from this fashion house. It’s even easier to do if a fragrance itself suits the moment perfectly.

Infusion d’Amande opens lazily like a first morning stretch. At first there is a gentle whisper of quiet iris. It’s aroma – powdery, silky and minimally floral spreads around the wearer like a mist of scented goodness. It’s ethereal like an unearthly phenomenon, you can see it, smell it, but you can’t touch it. A little bit later the perfume becomes even more powdery, like a talcum & because of that it reminds me of a fresh snow that hugs everything around with a fluffy coat. It’s beautiful and very easy to admire because of the beautiful transparency and clarity. This perfume gives me a peace of mind.

After a while a bitter almond note comes to the front of Prada Infusion d’Amande. Despite the fact that it has a word ‘bitter’ in its name I find it to be quite sweet and typical in its almondy scent. However things change further into fragrance development. The accord of almond becomes creamier, smoother to the point that it starts to resemble a milky note. I actually like it that way as it tried to veer towards gourmand direction but it’s not quite there yet. The sleek surface of Infusion d’Amande is like a fabrics that allows the light to play nicely on it, drawing out its luminosity.

infusion-amande

Generally speaking we’re dealing here with a lighter type of fragrance. The beauty such as Infusion d’Amande wouldn’t have been so beautiful if it was heavier or stronger. Less is more is the key motto to all Infusion fragrances from Prada. That said Infusion d’Amande refuses to dissipate into the void too early. It gains more character over time as it reveals a flower milk note of heliotrope. This particular chord adds a bit more powderness to the scent. Thanks to it the perfume becomes richer without putting on more weight. Just like the snow that doesn’t weight much despite thick layer.

As hours pass Infusion d’Amande becomes more pale & delicate but it’s yet to fully develop. The creaminess transforms into one that fits the usual fragrance of tonka bean. It’s fluffy and flavored with vanilla yet at the same time there’s something slightly balsamic and spicy about it. Final surprise of the perfume is the essence of star anise that reveals late in the fragrance development. It tingles underneath a powdery-creamy layer, muted by these ingredients. Instead of being straightforward it’s more like a hum, covered by a soft quilt of clean and sensual musk. It’s a caressing perfume.

When I first tried Prada Infusion d’Amande I thought that it’s more of a cold perfume but as I wore it more I realized that it’s quite warm in fact and that it compliments a Winter weather in a nice way. If you tried it you might’ve also recognized the same thing – in the core of this fragrance is Infusion d’Iris that has ben enlaced with almond, heliotrope, tonka – the ingredients that made it into Infusion d’Amande. Perfumer Daniela Andrier (Givaudan) made another fantastic scent for Prada and it’s another proof of the fact that you can make a complex perfume using not so many materials. The perfume has a small sillage that stays close to the skin and it lasts for most of the day.

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Field notes from holidays, Prada Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger

Summer is a tricky part of the year for me. I can love it or hate it depending on how bearable the temperatures are. I like mild summer, with temperatures around 22ºC because I feel comfortable then & can wear airy t-shirts, shorts or linen pants. Of course I also have a little arsenal of fragrances that help to keep me cool. I love my citrus fragrances. I also love Prada, as a self-proclaimed Pradaholic it will always have a special place in my heart. Plus in fact I find most of their creation to go along with my taste, it’s a double win. If Prada goes citrus, count me in.

infusion-oranger-2009

Prada Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger opens with a bright orange blossom aroma. It’s a sparkling sensation that I like to compare to bubbles in a glass of sparkling water. Every waft of it feels like a little bubble that then bursts, releasing a tiny cloud of fragrance. Few minutes later the floral opening becomes more aromatic, more juicy thanks to a note of mandarin orange. It introduces a fruity vibe that is very pretty and delicate like a summery dress. Mandarin also adds a tiny bit of zestiness blended with citrus pulp sweetness. It gives me relaxing, chillout vibe. The feeling is fresh and invigorating like a quick summer rain.

Composition develops further in white flowers direction. There’s a handful of jasmine in Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger but it feels light and airy. Tuberose is there too but just like jasmine, it’s lightweight and transparent. However there’s a twist to these as many people detect some animalic dirtiness in this fragrance. I feel it too & to me it’s faint but stands out in the context of a whole perfume. Perhaps it’s some indole from jasmine? Once it fades away, drydown reveals a sweet & soapy scent of neroli. It’s clean and fresh like a white bed linen in a summer resort hotel. That Ephemeral Infusion launched in 2009 as a limited edition (it’s still easy to find online).

infusion-oranger-2015

Two years ago (2015) perfume division of Prada decided to revive Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger by launching Les Infusions de Prada collection, which is now further expanded. The perfume opens with almost identical orange blossom note as its predecessor but on my skin it has more citric qualities. The effect of mandarin is more intensive so that the perfume feels more vibrant and zesty. It’s still a bubbly, sparkling sensation full of happiness but now this glass of water has a few extra orange slices inside. Fruitiness of mandarin orange blends well with orange blossom to provide a cotton soft veil of scent.

Further into fragrance development jasmine appears just like in earlier version of Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger. It’s the same kind of ethereal, airy jasmine with a delicate warmth that gives it a charming sunny vibe. In this version in practise I didn’t smell the animalic aspect of indole that was mentioned above. Instead when tuberose joins the composition I detect a creamy vibe from this Prada that smells gently of coconut and suntan lotion. When neroli finally appears I smell familiar soapy vibe that I so like in Prada fragrances. In 2015 however it feels as if it was slightly more powdery and musky, but this could be as well just my imagination.

Both 2009 and 2015 Infusions have the same ingredients listed – Tunisian neroli, Moroccan orange blossom, Tunisian orange blossom, Indian tuberose, Indian sambac jasmine. To me the differences between these two Infusions de Fleur d’Oranger as so minor that you could say that it’s actually the same perfume instead of a completely new one. Both were developed by perfumer Daniela Andrier from Givaudan. Also both of them are incredibly light and deserve a title of a fleeting beauty as they’re completely gone in 1-2 hours. Well, it’s a summer fragrance alright so you might want to re-apply during the day, it’s alright. Probably only things that makes a difference between them is the packaging. The newer version has simplified and more clean-looking packaging & the glass of its bottle has a gentle orange hue. Do you think you could become friends with this perfume?

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