Tag Archives: Daniela Roche-Andrier

Field notes from holidays, Prada Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger

Summer is a tricky part of the year for me. I can love it or hate it depending on how bearable the temperatures are. I like mild summer, with temperatures around 22ºC because I feel comfortable then & can wear airy t-shirts, shorts or linen pants. Of course I also have a little arsenal of fragrances that help to keep me cool. I love my citrus fragrances. I also love Prada, as a self-proclaimed Pradaholic it will always have a special place in my heart. Plus in fact I find most of their creation to go along with my taste, it’s a double win. If Prada goes citrus, count me in.

infusion-oranger-2009

Prada Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger opens with a bright orange blossom aroma. It’s a sparkling sensation that I like to compare to bubbles in a glass of sparkling water. Every waft of it feels like a little bubble that then bursts, releasing a tiny cloud of fragrance. Few minutes later the floral opening becomes more aromatic, more juicy thanks to a note of mandarin orange. It introduces a fruity vibe that is very pretty and delicate like a summery dress. Mandarin also adds a tiny bit of zestiness blended with citrus pulp sweetness. It gives me relaxing, chillout vibe. The feeling is fresh and invigorating like a quick summer rain.

Composition develops further in white flowers direction. There’s a handful of jasmine in Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger but it feels light and airy. Tuberose is there too but just like jasmine, it’s lightweight and transparent. However there’s a twist to these as many people detect some animalic dirtiness in this fragrance. I feel it too & to me it’s faint but stands out in the context of a whole perfume. Perhaps it’s some indole from jasmine? Once it fades away, drydown reveals a sweet & soapy scent of neroli. It’s clean and fresh like a white bed linen in a summer resort hotel. That Ephemeral Infusion launched in 2009 as a limited edition (it’s still easy to find online).

infusion-oranger-2015

Two years ago (2015) perfume division of Prada decided to revive Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger by launching Les Infusions de Prada collection, which is now further expanded. The perfume opens with almost identical orange blossom note as its predecessor but on my skin it has more citric qualities. The effect of mandarin is more intensive so that the perfume feels more vibrant and zesty. It’s still a bubbly, sparkling sensation full of happiness but now this glass of water has a few extra orange slices inside. Fruitiness of mandarin orange blends well with orange blossom to provide a cotton soft veil of scent.

Further into fragrance development jasmine appears just like in earlier version of Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger. It’s the same kind of ethereal, airy jasmine with a delicate warmth that gives it a charming sunny vibe. In this version in practise I didn’t smell the animalic aspect of indole that was mentioned above. Instead when tuberose joins the composition I detect a creamy vibe from this Prada that smells gently of coconut and suntan lotion. When neroli finally appears I smell familiar soapy vibe that I so like in Prada fragrances. In 2015 however it feels as if it was slightly more powdery and musky, but this could be as well just my imagination.

Both 2009 and 2015 Infusions have the same ingredients listed – Tunisian neroli, Moroccan orange blossom, Tunisian orange blossom, Indian tuberose, Indian sambac jasmine. To me the differences between these two Infusions de Fleur d’Oranger as so minor that you could say that it’s actually the same perfume instead of a completely new one. Both were developed by perfumer Daniela Andrier from Givaudan. Also both of them are incredibly light and deserve a title of a fleeting beauty as they’re completely gone in 1-2 hours. Well, it’s a summer fragrance alright so you might want to re-apply during the day, it’s alright. Probably only things that makes a difference between them is the packaging. The newer version has simplified and more clean-looking packaging & the glass of its bottle has a gentle orange hue. Do you think you could become friends with this perfume?

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Gentle man, Prada L’Homme

We live in the world that is constantly changing and I believe it’s the only way to carry on, because standing in one place brings no progress in life. A century or even less ago a place of men and woman in the society were still strictly determined by stereotypes. Today we break them. Definition of gender models has become more fluid and free in interpretation. Inspired by this freedom of expressing ourselves Prada asks us – what feminine qualities make a men masculine and what masculine qualities make a woman feminine? New fragrance duet might help answer the question.

prada-l-homme

Prada L’Homme opens with an instantly disappearing, ghostly impression of something citrusy before it unveils unveils a beautiful powdery vibe. Powderness of this new perfume feels very clean, soapy & fresh. Close your eyes, take a whiff and it will take you to an old-fashioned barber shop. It’s a fragrance of traditional specifics that a well-groomed men need. Not longer than after 5 minutes a powdery feeling intensifies and introduces a magnificent iris note.

If you love Prada like I do, or if you’re at least acquainted with fragrances from this fashion house, you’ll easily notice that it’s THE iris, one and the same classy ingredient that has been a key element of so many of their fragrances. It’s subtle, elegant and not to be missed accord in L’Homme. After a while the notes shift and I start to smell a fougere heart of the composition. It smells like a barber soap in a wooden bowl. Traditional, yet modern.

When I smell it I’m suggested of such notes like fern – a bit green, geranium – floral, crunchy and aromatic, a bit of mint – fresh and clean. This classy combination immediately takes me back in time to when I fell in love with Prada Amber Pour Homme. New Prada L’Homme shares the same DNA with it but it’s not a copy or remake. It interprets masculinity and adapts it to today’s world. The idea of such perfume is not to learn how to be a macho but to learn how to be yourself.

prada_perfume_sneak_peek-2

Going further in the fragrance development, a barber shop soap aroma slowly subsides which allows iris for a come back. This time it appears in a floral manner. It effuses a soft, silky scent that smells precious, just like a quality silk fabric feels luxurious on your skin. Floral nuances of L’Homme are enhanced with violet, to put a little bit more pressure on a flowery aspect of a fragrance. These floral notes turn gently into white veil of neroli, which adds a sunny sparkle to the composition. It’s slightly citrusy and clean. It has a specific purity to it.

2 hours later Prada L’Homme warms up and grows a bit more substantive on the skin. At this moment a woody smell of cedar wood combines together with black pepper, resulting in a warm & spicy feeling with a woody back note. Patchouli adds depth by giving the fragrance its eartiness. Re-appearance of geranium that once again brings an aromatic touch makes this phase more dynamic, spacious, dimensional. Thanks to it a new Prada doesn’t get monotonous.

By letting this perfume work with your body chemistry for a few more hours you’ll be able to experience a wonderful drydown. Once other notes will dissipate over time, L’Homme by Prada will remain on your skin thanks to an amber accord. It feels warm and luminous, any mineral or resinous aspects of it are minimal. This final form is another hat tip to Amber Pour Homme but to me this new interpretation is more simple while still maintaining its made-to-measure character.

l-homme-prada

L’Homme Prada together with Le Femme Prada are fragrances of pairs, of doubles, of juxtapositions and layers. They are about gender fluidity in a world in which gentle woman and tough men can be tough woman and gentle men as well. L’Homme Prada is available in 50, 100, 150 ml eau de toilette concentration and matching face & body products. Its sillage and lasting power are moderate. Big plus for a pretty interesting bottle that features signature Safiano leather.

[note] photos from here and here, gif from here

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