Light before the Night, Prada Marienbad

Hello 2019! Since a new year has begun I’m going to kick it off with my traditional review of a Prada fragrance. The idea of boutique exclusive perfume collections launched by big fashion houses like Chanel or Dior is nothing new these days. Of course not all fashion labels have joined this bandwagon (think Versace). Prada was one of the latecomers to this game, introducing Olfactories collection in 2015. But… it wasn’t their first attempt as between 2004 and 2012 they released a bunch of boutique-only fragrances but those came without much echo in the fragrance universum.

Marienbad starts as a luminous amber perfume but that’s just how it looks (smells?) on the outside. Its take off is full of brightness, feels exhilarating, kind of fresh even… but there’s way more complexity hiding underneath this external layer. It doesn’t take more than a couple of minutes until the perfume starts to put on weight and develop greater density. Amber becomes more resinous, having a slight fudgy sweetness in the background. The perfume still has a bright nature at this point.

However some shadows start to sneak in as well. Those shadows smell of black leather. This accord is introduced to Prada Marienbad in a seamless manner, as if it emerged straight from the sea of amber. Leather feels very elegant and sophisticated in this perfume. Stylish. Its glossy, shiny finish combined with the way it smells suggests a very expensive pair of shoes or a luxurious hand bag. Of course both would have to come from Prada boutique. This leather doesn’t feel offensive at all.

Next up in the fragrance development we have insense. Its smokiness – immaterial, clear but present only adds to the overall elegant feeling that Marienbad evokes. It’s contrasting with radiance of amber and merges with leather that itself has a darker side – some sort of chiaroscuro effect is created with these notes. Adding more to the noir of this Prada composition there’s oud. This wood-derived resin creates more depth and enriches the impressions with a bit of dramatism.

Agar in Prada Marienbad feels oily, balmy and rich. It also gets a tiny bit animalic because of some civet. But those are countered with boozy oriental vanilla note so that the fragrance has a good balance between dark and light elements. Tolu balm makes everything feels very smooth & seamless while the signature Prada iris brings some powdery tones to this perfume, giving it a nice finishing touch. I think of this Olfactories release as a fudgy, cuddly amber – ideal for winter.

Among original (read: first) boutique collection of Prada Olfactories, Marienbad stands there as one of the more complex ones to be honest with you. Great part of the other ones focus on 2-3 ingredients and those have a tendency to get more linear. In case of Prada Marienbad you can experience more interaction between the ingredients, there are different layers that entwine and overlap with one another. Perfumer Daniela Andrier  did a great job. The entire collection is available in eau de parfum concentration in 100 ml heavy glass bottles, each perfume comes with a pouch.

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Blissful Chillout, Prada Infusion de Mandarine

For the past 2 years I spent my summer holidays in Italy and I have to admit there’s something amazing about being there during the warm months. I believe it’s a combination of mild Mediterranean climate, picturesque landscapes, always relaxed Italian people and delightful gelato that allowed me to experience a little bit of dolce vita. Now I’ll be able to relive those great moments of past summer thanks to new Infusion fragrance from Prada. The latest addition to the line focuses  on mandarine – it’s a very evocative scent with true Italian soul. Let’s indulge in it, shall we?

Smelling Infusion de Mandarine is like making first morning steps in the orange grove somewhere by the Adriatic Sea coast in Italy. The air is still crisp after the night and citrus trees cast a gentle shade on the ground as the sun is going up the horizon. A light wind blows from the seaside & as the leaves start rustling peacefully you begin to notice how their scent starts to surround you. The scent is crunchy, green with a lot of freshness. Its aroma is very light and peacefully dreamy. Mandarin leaf and its citrus verdancy transport my mind to a summery asylum just for myself. It’s a pure bliss.

As you walk further into the grove you discover other aspects of the scent. After a few minutes among these imaginary trees the smell of mandarine start to pleasantly tickle my nose. Infusion de Mandarine presents this citrus fruit as tart, tangy, with an adequate amount of juicy sweetness. It’s slightly leafy as well. It’s absolutely mouth-watering & oh so delicious. The equilibrium of all these mandarine facets reflect the fruit so accurately that you just want to grab one and take a juicy bite. I’m convinced this is the most realistic mandarine accord I’ve ever smelled in perfume.

Over time green mandarine in new Prada Infusion reveals a slightly more acidic facet that is quickly neutralized with the smell of orange. The latter one is juicy and sweet. When you smell it you get the impression of something packed with vitamins and a lot of solar energy. Infusion de Mandarine develops even more tenderness and vivacity thanks to a white floral bouquet composed of neroli and orange blossom. White-colored flowery tones of both are married with different shades of orange, some are more, some are less vibrant but the overall effect is effervescent and full of happiness.

Over the entire day the impression of walking among orange & mandarine trees remains multidimensional and the citrus never becomes flat, even at the end of the day. The character of Prada Infusion de Mandarine sure becomes airy but it pleases the nose at any time. In the drydown the perfume feels even more radiant and cosy thanks to the opoponax in the base. It’s gently balsamic fingerprint, combined with orange, mandarine and the leafy part blends really well and create an imagine of a place filled with the sunlight, where you can relax and wind down.

Perfumer Daniela Andrier once again has shown us her talent for creating mesmerizing & gorgeous perfume again. Despite a short list of notes, Prada Infusion de Mandarine is more complex than one would’ve expected. It would be greatto wear it in the summer. This perfume complements Les Infusions collection in a very pretty way. At the same time when you smell its drydown you still notice Infusion d’Iris in its core. It’s unbelievable to build yet another fantastic scent that still keeps a part of its predecessor’s DNA. This eau de parfum is available in 50 and 100 ml bottle with orange nuances.