Tag Archives: Delphine Labeau

Golden Tutu, Les Parfums de Rosine Ballerina No.5

There are many thing that can inspire a perfumer to create. There are common themes like travelling, history, famous personas. There is also music but this one can apply to so many different genre. Not just music types as they are but also other things that directly connect to music. Theatre or opera are among ideas of some of the fragrances that are currently on the market. In case of Les Parfums de Rosine, their Ballerina line explores the art of ballet – synergy of music and dance, through scent. Newest addition to this range, Ballerina No.5 was inspired by La Bayadere (1877).

Ballerina No.5 begins with a pleasantly sweet juiciness of mandarin, which gives this perfume not only a citrusy sweetness but also a bit of tang. Orange blossom adds a beige swirl of floral nuances that make the scent more interesting and alive on the skin. After a couple of minutes a candied fruit facet emerges and I wonder if it’s the prickly pear listed as one of the top notes. Rose is very important for all Rosine fragrances and in Ballerina No.5 it plays a role of a leading dancer.

Rose petals in this perfume are inflected with shiny golden threads of gourmand. The rose itself is quite fragrant, aromatic & jammy. The smell of Ballerina No.5 is like a jam made by crushing fresh rose petals with sugar crystals for a very long time. The texture is a bit grainy but the smell itself is smooth. If you like fragrances like L’Artisan Safran Troublant, Lush Rose Jam or even to some extend Phi from Andy Tauer, you might notice a connection between them when it comes to rose.

ballerina

Heart of Ballerina No.5 still has a lot of plushy rose but candied fruitiness becomes much stronger at this point. My nose picks a particularly standing out, syrupy vibe of lychee – which gives a bit of a tropical vibe to this Rosine creation. Violet petals add a bit of a purple tinge to the scent, introducing more crisp and ozonic feel to the bouquet. The brand lists almond blossom – my only experience ever was with almond blossom face cream from Korres and it has a nice but specific smell, clean and bit aldehydic. Heliotrope gives a nice powdery sensation, with hints of tonka and almonds.

Gourmand element of this perfume smells like caramel in my opinion. It’s more liquid and viscous at first but later on it becomes more buttery & toffee-like. It’s an evident sweetness of Ballerina No.5 that makes it more adult and elegant. Benzoin adds a nice balsamic and resinous quality that also fits in the idea of toffee candy. Gaiac wood provides more substantivity to the perfume but also is responsible for giving some mysterious darkness. It’s a nice effect. Tonka makes the scent more velvety, patchouli and cedarwood make the scent deeper and more dimensional thanks to it.

Thanks to the vanillic, toffee undertone that slowly oozes from this perfume, Ballerina No.5 from Les Parfums de Rosine is more floriental than simply floral. I also liked the word ‘fleurmand’ Jessica used in her review. Perfumer Delphine Labeau created a fragrance that is feminine (it’s actually a bit hard to imagine a men wearing it) but it’s femininity is grown up. It represents a woman who knows what she wants and how to get it. It’s a nice choice if you crave something sweet.

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Two of Les Parfums de Rosine Les Extravagants

For as long as I’m writing Chemist in the Bottle there still is a whole bunch of brands that I haven’t heard of or at least that I haven’t tried for one reason or another. Regarding Les Parfums de Rosine this is exactly my case – I don’t know many fragrances from the line because in my eyes this brand has always been focusing on girly, feminine compositions so I never thought I would find there something for me. But now the brand is changing their perspective with four Les Extravagants.

bois-fuchsia

A mouth-watering opening of Bois Fuchsia is overflowing with a blackcurrant note. The smell of this red fruit is very realistic here, it’s juicy and sweet but at the same time it’s properly tart, with a nice tanginess underneath. The perfumer has paired this initial note with an iris accord which gives it a powdery facet with delicate hints of silky-floral nuances. Because of the iris the fragrance gives sort of a cosmetic impression, as if you could potentially find it in a blush or a cream. After a while Bois Fuchsia becomes even more fruity but in a syrupy aspect. You can smell a whole bunch of fresh raspberries entwined with feminine notes of rose. It gives quite an edible feeling which makes sense as the perfume is a tribute to ‘Rosa Gallica’ which is popularly used in preserves.

Sugary sweetness of lychee adds some more gourmand character to Bois Fuchsia although I still wouldn’t classify it as such. Especially that in the drydown the scent becomes quite earthy, with some moisture. That effect given by patchouli and leftover fruitiness make me think of some garden works. Sandalwood gives a bit more substance to this composition, while musk gives it more fluffiness and cotton-like texture. It’s a nice & cheerful, kind of flirty composition, more for women.

vanille-paradox

Vanille Paradoxe is a name that really reflects the nature of this fragrance. This definitely isn’t your typical cuddly and comforting vanilla goodness. The perfume opens with a juniper facet that gives it a cool, aromatic vibe that goes deep inside your nose. Rosemary adds a green, herbaceous layer on top while grapefruit brings its tangy, bittery flavor with a hint of sweat to the scene. Cardamom with its cold spiciness and slightly nutty tones lead to stem-like aroma of angelica. Vanilla is the unusual player in Vanille Paradoxe as instead of being soft & sweet it is more dark, oriental – like an entire vanilla pod. It’s rich and quite concentrated yet not overpowering smell. Juniper gives it a funny feeling of gin fizziness. I have to admit that I quite like it. It’s different.

This vanilla impression blends with the smell of roses for an intriguing concoction that is meant to evoke ‘Bourbon roses’ that are used to form natural green borders of vanilla fields at Reunion Island. Later on Vanille Paradoxe gains more heft from cedarwood and afterwards a musky cloud follows and this one is like a whipped cream. Again not fully edible but giving you the appetite for something sweet. Generous dose of Ambroxan makes it more resinous, balsamic and warm. It’s cuddly.

These two new fragrances, developed by Michel Almairac and Delphine Labeau respectively show that Les Parfums de Rosine has made a move in a new direction. More modern compositions mean more appeal towards younger consumer. They also updated their classic bottle by covering it with vibrantly colored lacquer. Such pop of color attracts attention and looks great on photos. Each of Les Extravagants is an eau de parfum. The flacon size is 100 ml. Which one would you choose?

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