Tag Archives: Diptyque

Blissful laziness, Diptyque Eau des Sens

Sometimes when I read about new perfume launches I get a feeling as if it was a neverending race of not who makes a better fragrances, but who writes a better ad copy. We’ve all experienced beautifully written press releases yet when it came to testing, the scent failed to deliver. For some less is more & when it says that a perfume will “bring together all the dimensions of bitter orange, from the roots to the top of the tree, including branches, leaves and fruit.” Simple yet tempting. It took me over a year since its release to smell it but now I’m happy I had the occasion to do so. You see, Diptyque and I have a bumpy ride, perhaps because in very early perfumista years someone gave me Philosykos to smell. My experience with it was bad, so I kind of scared away from the brand. Nowadays my mind is more open (plus I love Oud Palao) so I waited for my sample eagerly.

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Turns out that Eau des Sens feels like it was made just for me. Its composition opens with a delightful scent of orange blossom that is somewhat sheer and translucent for the first impression. Generally speaking the whole perfume is more on a delicate side of the intensity spectrum. After few minutes orange blossom becomes more accentuated and reveals its nuances that combine aspects of a white flower and fruit. Soon flowers will be joined by a Seville orange. It’s full of flavor & absolutely mouth-watering. There is a certain amount of bitterness mixing with some juicy sweetness. Then it feels more tart & zesty, smelling like a citrus rind with white albedo. You can’t deny that Eau de Sens has a summer vibe coded in its DNA. At some point I can catch a glimpse of a pale green leafage. It’s very pleasant and it blends harmoniously with the rest of the composition.

Diptyque Eau des Sens among its few notes (its composition isn’t that long) lists juniper berry. It really came to my attention at some point. When bitter orange became more dry juniper surfaced introducing its cold-ish dry spiciness. It’s not screaming but is more hidden. Yet if you pay attention you’ll notice a gin undertone playing around. It’s gentle so you definitely won’t smell as if you spilled gin & tonic all over your shirt. Spiciness coming from angelica hangs around for a few minutes too until it fades away. After a longer time Eau des Sens is like a study of orange – you can really smell all of its parts. There is citrus peel, albedo, juicy orange pulp. Plus a little bit of petitgrain and even some orange tree twigs! It’s minimalistic but not simple at all. Those twigs add a bit of woody character to the drydown. It’s pale and soft because of additional musky note.

One more note listed is patchouli but since I didn’t record anything that would have an earthy, rooty or dirty-woody smell I assume Diptyque decided to use one of those modern fractions of patchouli – that has rather clean odor profile or is almost completely scentless. In fact Eau des Sens in its late drydown feels clean, slightly veering towards soapy aspect. All in all I have to admit that this is heck of an enjoyable perfume. It wears effortlessly and kind of gives me a holiday vibe of laziness. It was composed by perfumer Olivier Pescheux. As for eau de toilette concentration it feels sheer but has unexpectedly good lasting power (especially if you spray more generously). Eau des Sens is available in 50 and 100 ml bottles. If that’s still too much you might want to consider a discovery set (5 or 10 pieces) where you’ll find it as one of 7,5 ml vials. Scented bar soap is also available.

[note] photo borrowed from Diptyque on Instagram (cropped)

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May queen, Diptyque Essences Insensees 2016

Before perfume becomes a perfume there is a long way, time-consuming process that needs to be completed. Have you ever wondered how much work does it take to plant flower seeds, how much care and patience it requires until it buds, grows first leaves and finally blooms a first flower? In these terms gardeners are just as important as perfumers. Some years the harvest turns out to be extraordinary, thanks to many factors, such as good weather, plantators care. Extraordinary flower can inspire creators. It happened with L’Artisan Parfumeur when they launched Iris Pallida or Fleur d’Oranger. This time it’s Diptyque that got amazingly good crop of rose de mai in 2016.

Essences Insensees 2016 is a third element of the collection, joining previous editions that were dedicated to mimosa (2014) and jasmine (2015). Composition begins with a lush, mouth-watering smell of a basket overflowing with red fruit. It smells incredibly fresh & playful to me. I pick especially well the smell of raspberries, followed by a tart aroma of black currant buds plus a sweet-sour flavor of red currant. After some time this red fruit paradise becomes shiny and sweet thanks to a honey note involved in this fragrance. It engulfs the berries, making them smell custardy, like a simple desert. There is also something liquory about that part.

It doesn’t take long until Essences Insensees unveils its heart. Once it does I could quickly conclude that it’s simply gorgeous. Flowery tones don’t appear out of a sudden but they gradually build up. At first it’s dewy & transparent, then it goes through a crispy green stage that smelled similar to geranium leaf in my opinion. Finally the flower blooms fully on my skin and graciously presents its beauty. Even though this perfume is all about a rose bouquet it doesn’t smell overwhelming. It has a lot of grace and delicacy that make this perfume charming.

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Floral fragrances can be easily overdone. In case of Diptyque Essences Insensees 2016 you’re dealing with a bouquet of roses but not in literal meaning. Rather than experiencing the fragrance of thousand flowers you smell the richness of them all. To me it’s like I was smelling a single rose flower from the crop but its aroma is so intense that it almost feels like I was surrounded by a whole plantation. The abundance of rose, hiding within precious rose essence and Rosa Centifolia absolute provide an olfactory journey to the heart of Grasse.

With time, flowery tones develop an extra powdery facet that is gentle and pure. There is also some dirtier earthiness, hints of patchouli appearing after a couple of hours of wearing this Diptyque creation. As a whole being, this perfume is brimming with happiness, at least in my opinion. I know that it might sound weird, because this fragrance is quite peaceful, tranquil. Still when I smell it, I feel happy. It doesn’t have to sparkle with good vibes. Maybe that’s what makes it different?

Essences Insensees 2016 is a limited edition perfume. It was created for Diptyque by perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin. This special creation is held in a big, 120 ml bottle designed by Waltersperger. It looks like an onyx crystal, as the flacon is made of black, opaque glass that is cut in such a way to remind a jeweller work on a gemstone. The bottle has a bulb atomizer which makes it look more classy, a little bit retro. It’s lasting power is pretty good, with a moderate sillage.

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