Tag Archives: Diptyque

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 65

Hey, it’s me! Yes, I’m still alive in case you were wondering. The blog hasn’t been doing well lately but it’s not because I have been unwell myself… It’s just not much is happening in the perfume world. Or at least I’m not noticing the stuff going on around. Anyways sampling new fragrances is still a nuisance & it’s difficult to write a new article without test material, you know. But I don’t want to stop writing and I don’t want Chemist in the Bottle to be forgotten in the blogosphere. Hence today, after another month-long break, some scented tidbits that might interest someone.

Eau de Minthe joined Diptyque‘s line up of fragrances in 2019 and I remember briefly smelling it at Parisian Galleries Lafayette during one of the steps of perfumery school recruitment process. But it was so fast and there were other more important emotions back then that I didn’t remember the way it smell. Fast forward to 2021 and the chance has arisen. This is not your average refreshing minty cologne for the summer. This is a very herbaceous and green kind of mint that has a certain sharpness & bitterness to it. Geranium note emphasizes the green and stemy facet that simultaneously makes Eau de Minthe crunchy and crisp. Rose Oxide introduced a bit of a rosy accent but most of all it deliveres an ice-cold cut to the fragrance. It’s not brutal but it’s shocking. On the opposite side there’s also a patchouli note that tries to keep the fragrance on the warmer side. This is one unusual concoction, more masculine too – reminiscent of Old Spice… well, kind of.

Those of you who have been reading me for years know that I am fond of the natural fragrances composed by Hiram Green. You’d also know that generally I don’t shy away from weird perfume and in worst case the MQS is the one and only time for me to try something. Quite recently Hiram launched a new creation around vetiver note. Its name – Vetiver – as simple as that. Except there is one big but – me and vetiver come from two different fairytales. I don’t like the word “nuke” but that’s what comes to mind when I smell it. This perfume is a “vetiver for advanced” enthusiasts of the note. The scent is super dry and super aromatic right off the bat, smelling of sun-dried grass, roots, a bit of hay as well. It’s earthy and woody with a lot of richness to it. Maybe it’s the mix of vetiver from Haiti and from Java that works this way but it smells multidimensional to me. Neither citrus not ginger stand out to me in the opening phase but I think they may contribute to the stronger perception of vetiver itself? I kind of see ginger working that way. Cedarwood and patchouli add to the earthy woodiness of Hiram Green Vetiver. There’s raw wood, some wood shavings and all the carpentry stuff going on. Vetiver fans will be enamored with latest from Hiram. For me it’s too much as at times it gets too tarry or “meaty” on me.

I still remember when the brand named Une Nuit a Bali debuted at one of the perfume exhibitions in Italy. Years have passed and the brand has grown stronger (at least that’s what I think it is when you introduce more fragrances regularly). Today this perfume house is called Une Nuit Nomade and today I’m exploring their Jardins de Misfah. Well, this is a gorgeous floriental fragrance. Maybe not very innovatived but no less pretty because of that. The opening offers a mild spicy blend of cardamom and nutmeg that feel crunchy, a bit tingly and kind of dry. But this first impression is fleeting as the perfume quickly proceeds to the heart notes. Here a lavish date accord is revealed and the way it smells makes my mouth water in an instant. It has a delightful sweetness served in an oriental style. It’s mild and inoffensive – perhaps that’s what makes it so appealing. Coupled with rose absolute and rose essence for a deep and luxurious experience of immersing yourself in the pool filled with bright red floral petals. Saffron adds a golden glow to the rose – it’s like a nectar, a honey-like substance that envelops the flower and make it smell even more divine. A hint of almond in the base with its powdery finish gives an elegant gourmand facet worthy of a royalty.

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Sunshine Caress, Diptyque Ilio

When I was younger summer trips to Croatia and Bulgaria were very exciting as they felt like visiting a whole new world. Different people, behaviours, cuisine & nature. Later when I grew up and spent my own vacations travelling across Italy it felt no less exciting. As a general rule I find all the countries from the Mediterranean Sea basin to be very entertaining. I don’t believe in reincarnation but who knows, maybe I lived in one of them. What’s common for Bulgaria, Croatia or Italy is that guava and prickly pear were growing left and right. I looked at them as at exotic plant species but I know that to locals they were more like a pesky weed, especially the prickly pear.

Even though it’s such a common cactus-like plant of the Mediterranean you don’t see it popularized in fragrances that are inspired by this geographic region. That’s when Diptyque steps in. As part of their 60th anniversary celebration this brand recently introduced a Summer Essentials collection that features Ilio, a perfume with a very pleasant prickly pear accord. This eau de toilette starts with a very refreshing & kind of watery fruity note. It’s juicy and green in a vegetal way, yet at the same time with a little hint of sweetness that makes the opening much more flavorful & captivating.

I would say that the smell of this prickly pear accord lays somewhere between melon, fig and rhubarb – it’s got some traces of all 3. Additionally Diptyque Ilio has got some zingy tartness that’s coming from bergamot, squeezed on top of the fruit. Despite its fruity character I have to admit that from the first moment of putting Ilio on my skin I am also accompanied by the impression of silky smoothness that adds refinement to the composition. Official notes on Diptyque website mention jasmine but here it’s very solar, lightweight, even lighter than in California Reverie (VC&A).

Ilio’s silky powderness that I mentioned a moment ago makes perfect sense due to presence of iris as the final note of this 4-notes-only-perfume. Thanks to the iris this summery Diptyque creation feels more elegant. It’s got some musky and soapy aspect to it, making the scent feel clean, refreshing – in my opinion very fitted for this time of the year. Also allow me to share a personal observation with all of you – for a reasonable amount of time the combination of notes in Diptyque Ilio perfectly mimics the smell of yellow mimosa pom-poms. The vegetal sweetness of flower pollen is there.

If you’re looking for a light & breezy perfume that through its smell evokes the picturesque cliffs caressed by the foamy waves of the Mediterranean Sea, Diptyque Ilio is a fragrance for you. I have to admit that I was quickly hooked by this new composition. It’s inoffensive, simple but at the same time it’s not boring and with a nice level of being original. Plus I simply like the way it interacts with my skin. Ilio makes me feel fresh, bringing me a kiss of the sun. This limited edition composition is an eau de toilette and is available in 100 ml Diptyque oval bottles. Additional cuteness factor of the bottle is the simple & colorful illustration on the oval label by artist Luke Edward Hall.

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