Tag Archives: Diptyque

Tempus Fugit, Diptyque 50th Anniversary Duet

In the recent years perfume market got even more competitive than it was before. It’s especially visible in the niche sector where new brand sprout each season as mushrooms after the rain. Sadly that also makes seeking for good quality more difficult. For those brands each successful year is a big achievement and come to think of it – most of the niche perfume brands that I know, like & wear are no older than 10 years old. Even 10 years would be considered a milestone but turns out there’s someone who beat that number by 5 times. Believe it or not but it’s been 50 years since Diptyque launched their first perfume. They celebrate the achievement with 2 new creations.

tempo

Right off the bat Tempo explodes on my skin with a big cloud of patchouli. It smells rich & highly saturated, even becoming oily at times. For the first couple of minutes it smells rather camphorous and mentholated on my skin. When they pass, patchouli becomes way more earthy and it also develops the scent of roots grown deeply into a moist ground. According to Diptyque this composition features 3 different patchouli extracts from Sulawesi Island in Indonesia. This smell of undergrowth was a little bit too much for me but the longer Tempo sits on my skin the more good things about it I can see. When clary sage joins the composition the perfume becomes more aromatic and drops a few pounds off its weight. Violet Leaf instantly gives Tempo a green crunchiness. It’s more fresh and exhilarating, a bit dewy too and through that it provides a contrast. Mate absolute introduces a tea flavored dryness that’s really beautiful. In the end there’s pink pepper that makes a warm & soft statement of own spiciness. In the perfume universe where patchouli has been stripped off its identity through countless of various fractions that make it smell almost clean, Diptyque Tempo will stand out as a nod to patchouli of old times featured in a modern fragrance. Tempo certainly is a nuanced woody & earthy blend but it also presents a lot of elegance.

fleur-de-peau

Fleur de Peau opens with a somewhat cold manner as it diffuses a mellow scent of ambrette. The specific smell of this vegetal musk ingredient is clearly present in this very Diptyque perfume. Few minutes later aldehydes start to shimmer quietly, introducing more brightness to the scent. It doesn’t take long after they become more confident and start their happy bubbling. When these aldehydic bubbles are released an instant feeling of cleanliness & freshness is delivered. From up close the smell mimics the fragrance of a new cotton t-shirt almost impeccably. And we’re talking of a high quality white t-shirt made out of a thick yarn. The one that keeps you cool when hot & warm when cold. Through the musky notes I get the additional feeling as if it was freshly steamed/ironed as well. Then a wonderful powdery iris takes over the lead in Fleur de Peau. The powderness feels quite luxurious at first however the other time I tried it my impression was different – I smelled something like chalk instead of lovely powder. Ambery tones of ambergris & amber wood warm up the scent and make it more sensual. At later stage of development iris becomes more carroty and is joined by rose. Those floralties add to the overall feeling of cleanliness. Pink pepper sparkles quietly in the back while ambrettolide gives Fleur de Peau a skin scent transparency. It’s quite pretty.

I think that both Tempo and Fleur de Peau are great additions to pretty varied Diptyque range. I can certainly imagine that popularity of those two will go high, especially Tempo since many perfume lovers crave for a good patchouli fragrance. If it was up to me I would probably try to create something that would give people a big WOW effect upon spraying on skin. If I would regularly wear these 50th Diptyque anniversary fragrances is a different matter. As Undina suggested, I will wait for colder weather to re-test them. Diptyque Fleur de Peau & Tempo are creations of Olivier Pescheux, each of them is an eau de parfum in a 75 ml signature oval bottle. Which one would you try first?

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Blissful laziness, Diptyque Eau des Sens

Sometimes when I read about new perfume launches I get a feeling as if it was a neverending race of not who makes a better fragrances, but who writes a better ad copy. We’ve all experienced beautifully written press releases yet when it came to testing, the scent failed to deliver. For some less is more & when it says that a perfume will “bring together all the dimensions of bitter orange, from the roots to the top of the tree, including branches, leaves and fruit.” Simple yet tempting. It took me over a year since its release to smell it but now I’m happy I had the occasion to do so. You see, Diptyque and I have a bumpy ride, perhaps because in very early perfumista years someone gave me Philosykos to smell. My experience with it was bad, so I kind of scared away from the brand. Nowadays my mind is more open (plus I love Oud Palao) so I waited for my sample eagerly.

eau-des-sens-diptyque

Turns out that Eau des Sens feels like it was made just for me. Its composition opens with a delightful scent of orange blossom that is somewhat sheer and translucent for the first impression. Generally speaking the whole perfume is more on a delicate side of the intensity spectrum. After few minutes orange blossom becomes more accentuated and reveals its nuances that combine aspects of a white flower and fruit. Soon flowers will be joined by a Seville orange. It’s full of flavor & absolutely mouth-watering. There is a certain amount of bitterness mixing with some juicy sweetness. Then it feels more tart & zesty, smelling like a citrus rind with white albedo. You can’t deny that Eau de Sens has a summer vibe coded in its DNA. At some point I can catch a glimpse of a pale green leafage. It’s very pleasant and it blends harmoniously with the rest of the composition.

Diptyque Eau des Sens among its few notes (its composition isn’t that long) lists juniper berry. It really came to my attention at some point. When bitter orange became more dry juniper surfaced introducing its cold-ish dry spiciness. It’s not screaming but is more hidden. Yet if you pay attention you’ll notice a gin undertone playing around. It’s gentle so you definitely won’t smell as if you spilled gin & tonic all over your shirt. Spiciness coming from angelica hangs around for a few minutes too until it fades away. After a longer time Eau des Sens is like a study of orange – you can really smell all of its parts. There is citrus peel, albedo, juicy orange pulp. Plus a little bit of petitgrain and even some orange tree twigs! It’s minimalistic but not simple at all. Those twigs add a bit of woody character to the drydown. It’s pale and soft because of additional musky note.

One more note listed is patchouli but since I didn’t record anything that would have an earthy, rooty or dirty-woody smell I assume Diptyque decided to use one of those modern fractions of patchouli – that has rather clean odor profile or is almost completely scentless. In fact Eau des Sens in its late drydown feels clean, slightly veering towards soapy aspect. All in all I have to admit that this is heck of an enjoyable perfume. It wears effortlessly and kind of gives me a holiday vibe of laziness. It was composed by perfumer Olivier Pescheux. As for eau de toilette concentration it feels sheer but has unexpectedly good lasting power (especially if you spray more generously). Eau des Sens is available in 50 and 100 ml bottles. If that’s still too much you might want to consider a discovery set (5 or 10 pieces) where you’ll find it as one of 7,5 ml vials. Scented bar soap is also available.

[note] photo borrowed from Diptyque on Instagram (cropped)

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