Tag Archives: Diptyque

A perfect citrus – does it exist?

Even if you’re an ‘advanced’ perfumista, it probably doesn’t happen too often that you finish a bottle of perfume. Even if you’re like me and what you have is mostly partial bottles, it’s still a quite rare phenomenon. Well… guess what! Last week I emptied my bottle of Diptyque Eau des Sens. I know it might sound weird but when you have a perfume for some years you get used to it being a part of your fragrance wardrobe. And so when it’s finished, it feels a bit like saying goodbye to a friend.

I know I wasn’t happy when I used the very last spray of Eau des Sens couple of days ago. I had this perfume for around 3 years and I still remember when I smelled it from a sample, shown it to my co-worker and that we quickly decided to buy a bottle and share it. What I truly enjoyed about this Diptyque fragrance was that it offered a beautiful equilibrium between the orange and orange blossom. It surely made many of the past summer days much more pleasant or even easier to handle when it was too hot and thanks to its scent I felt a bit cooler. I already accepted the fact that I finished this one and I now debate what to do with the bottle – throw it away to the glass container or find someone who collects empty bottles & ask if they’d like mine. (as I am not a collector of empty flacons).

As much as I enjoyed Eau des Sens I don’t think I want another bottle of the same perfume. My mind and nose are too curious to stick to one thing for longer, that’s why I’ll be on the lookout for a new citrus composition for the summer. And I’d better be quick because summer is just around the corner. This leads to my question – does a perfect citrus even exist? Almost every niche brand makes an attempt to something light & citrusy at some point, with better or worse execution.

Don’t get me wrong – I own and enjoy a couple of Atelier Cologne, like Pomelo Paradis, Cedrat Enivrant or Clementine California. To me these are the summer no-brainer fragrances. I think I’m looking for a more complex type of freshness. Looking back at fragrances that I tested recently or earlier, I’m really drawn to Ormaie Les Brumes.¬†Succus by Les Liquides Imaginaires¬†about which I wrote in 2018 was also a beautiful scent. I’m also open to any suggestions so if you think that I’m missing out by not knowing some citrus that you think it great, you must tell me about it!

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Rues de Paris, Diptyque Eau Capitale

I’ve been to Paris a few times last year but if someone asked me to tell them how Paris smells I think I wouldn’t be able to answer. Paris is huge, each arrondisement is different. The area I’ve been walking through smells of espresso & buttery croissants, of warm baguette at boulangerie, of traffic fumes and dirty soapy water poured on the streets by shop owners who mopped the floor before opening their boutiques. Not a perfect image, eh? But Diptyque came up with a much appealing interpretation of the city that is home for the brand. It’s a chypre… because chypre is chic?

Eau Capitale starts with and old-school bergamot note which feels citric-bitterish, very zesty yet a little bit dried up at the same time. After a couple of minutes this bergamot peel becomes a tad dirty, developing some sort of a charred effect. Just few moments later a thick cloud of pink pepper bursts right in your face, unapologetically overtaking the scent for the time being. Its spiciness, fizzy and shimmering dominates and fills the nose with its fragrance. There’s a bit of metallic quality as well.

This lasts for some time but unlike Jessica, I noticed zero cumin in this part of Eau Capitale. The smell of pink peppercorns gradually kept fading away and when it moved to the 2nd plan, the rose accord emerged in the front row. I find the rose aspect of the new Diptyque to be quite aromatic at first, with an accent put particularly on geranium (with inflections of cold mint). Then rose becomes rose, of a lipstick color but a little faded away and dusty. It has a charming retro vibe that I like.

eau-capitale

Despite dustiness that I’m mentioning above, rose of Diptyque Eau Capitale is not dark. Actually thanks to the presence of ylang in the composition the perfume gains some shiny threads of luminous creaminess that adds a nice mellowness. When smelling Eau Capitale I think of a rose scented potpourri one would place inside a wardrobe with their favourite clothes. After some time its scent would impregnate the wooden frame of the furniture and permeate the garments.

Eau Capitale later moves to a contemporary chypre territory. Scent of dried rose petals entwine with cleanlified patchouli, which does have an earthy and plum-like facet but it’s much cleaner your standard patchouli. Modern oakmoss adds some structured aromatics to the composition. Eventually all of these things become more quiet and transparent, which in the end leads to an ambery-woody base composed of Givaudan specialty ingredients they patented – Akigalawood and Georgywood.

They both have a warm, soft, rounded profile with some golden ambery hues. I also found cinnamon mentioned among the notes but while it didn’t make a statement, it probably contributed to the warmth of the base. Eau Capitale by Diptyque is the 1st chypre from the brand (can you believe?) It’s not a heavy-hitter chypre from the past but it surely does make a statement. This new creation by Olivier Pescheux goes well along with my taste and I see myself wearing it on regular basis.

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