Tag Archives: Dusita

Song of Rainbow Fairies, Dusita Splendiris

There are books that are written so well that you just can’t stop reading until you learn what happens to the main character at the end of the tome. There are movies that are so relatable that they make us feel as we’re part of the story. There’s music that touches the right chords of our hearts and moves us to tears. Finally there are perfume that are so masterfully composed that their smell takes us to another world, a world only we know. Splendiris from Parfums Dusita is like a magic wand that opens the door to a realm where fairies, wizards, pixies and many other fantastic beings dwell. Nothing is impossible there. Shall we step into this world together to discover its wonders?

The world of Splendiris welcomes you with a sheer citrus juiciness that is so ethereal that it feels more as if someone scented their silk scarf with bergamot, blood orange and mandarine and walked on the same path few moments before you. The trail still lingers in the air but you can’t tell in which directions the owner of the scent went. None of these citrus notes is particularly accentuated, although I find the sweet scent of mandarine to peak slightly above the others. Couple of minutes after this journey began the perfume blooms and soon will reveal a whole palette of colours.

Violet leaf creates an ozonic, watery facet that is reminiscent of the smell of the air after the rain. Crispy green fragrance of the leaves adds a touch of freshness and a dewy feel to Splendiris. While violet leaf is more like geranium or even mint there’s also a hint of fig leaf which creates more dry, verdant and sappy impression. Even though there’s a rainy aura associated with this part of the scent, it’s more like a happy summer rain that might bring rainbow as soon as the sun comes out. This perfume sure has a lot of charm and any part of it feels just magical & tickles one’s imagination.

Pissara used some carrot seeds while working on Splendiris – they add a vegetal facet to the perfume and makes for a perfect introduction to what’s coming next. Everything changes when violet joins the composition. From this moment the latest Dusita fragrance turns sensual and full of powdery nuances. Violet introduces a spectrum of delicate and refined floral tones but at the same time there’s some candy sweetness to it in the background. There’s a part of flowers that are fresh while some of the petals have been candied or even turned into violet flavour powder candy.

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It’s a faint kind of sweetness but it’s enough to make you want to lick Splendiris off your skin. Just don’t do that or you’ll miss something even greater. Iris is the queen in this world – she enters with a fanfare of buttery and powdery deliciousness that just makes you want to melt and become one with it. In Splendiris it’s just so gorgeous that it makes me weak in the knees any time I wear it. There’s something very unusual about this orris. Even though irises are considered odorless this perfume makes me believe that I was also smelling its silky petals in addition to the precious rhisome.

After some time this magnificent iris of Splendiris blooms on the skin even more, now showing its true colours. Its flower is not only blue or purple as the most commonly known. The perfume also bears hues of yellow, white, creamy, burgundy and even more brown-ish shade. It’s like wearing a magic spell on your skin and when vanilla appears it allows orris to become more creamy & slightly gourmand. At this stage of development there was also a moment when I detected a grain note of wheat, very close to one found in Erawan. For a change it’s more dry and grassy in character.

Splendiris continues to surprise me until the very end. The drydown, which is still overflowing with iris, now starts to solidify and develops woody aromas that would serve as a base for the main star. Here vetiver – green, herbaceous and slightly coumaric as hay combines with cedarwood which is much more substantive and surrounds the wearer with a woody scent that is unpolished but still in style. Ambergris with its salty-flavored depth and sensuality ensures long-lasting of the fragrance on skin, letting you enjoy this beauty until your day is over. And what a grand day it must’ve been.

Everything feels so right and in place when it comes to Splendiris by Parfums Dusita that I think Pissara Umavijani must’ve connected with each raw material, iris in particular, on a spiritual level to pour so much beauty into this fragrance. Or maybe she was guided by some unworldly powers? But that not the most important. What really matters is that Splendiris is a truly splendid perfume that lives up to the name it was given. To me this is a flawless fragrance and I know I’m going to enjoy my bottle, which looks like a precious gem with this light purple colour of the juice. It’s a kind of perfume Alice from “Alice in Wonderland” or Wendy from a tale about Peter Pan would wear.

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Defining Undefined at Pitti Fragranze 2018 – part 2

First day of this year’s Pitti Fragranze sure was exciting and packed with many meetings and a wide variety of perfume. I expected that following days won’t be any worse & in fact they were not. Each day gave me something different. Also for the first time in the history of my Fragranze attendance I was at the fair for all 3 days so I got a new perspective by seeing how the last day looks like.

On Saturday I started my olfactory investigations by visting a stand of Soul Couture. This is a new brand of Italian origins & some of my friends recommended it as worth trying. At the stand I met Michele Marin, who founded this brand and who is a perfumer behind it. He created 6 different fragrances presented in simple & elegant bottles and boxes. I especially liked Weekend Postmoderno (with spices and iris), and Gender Ginger (with citrus, ginger and rosewood). It’s also one of the very few brands that offers travel-friendly size from the very beginning.

When I was passing next to Uermi booth I noticed they have some news too so I decided to spend there a few minutes to learn about them. They worked with perfumer Alexandra Carlin to develop two new compositions: SO Satin and UR Silk 19, a rework of UR Silk introduced 5 years ago. They also had a third one for which they teamed with Maurice Roucel. OR Damask is a lush red rose that I really liked. It had a full body and from the start you could smell it’s very well blended.

Miya Shinma didn’t present any new things as she still wanted to focus on the L’Eau de Miya Shinma collection. I said ‘wanted’ because she told me that she has been robbed. She shipped all of her perfume to Florence and when she wanted to organize the stand it turned out that someone stole all of the bottles of the new collection that were inside that box. It’s more than a misfortune – to come to the fair (which is not cheap!) and to not be able to present your latest achievements. So sad.

Have you ever heard of an Irish perfume brand Cloon Keen? Well I did and many years ago I even reviewed one when I got a sample in a swap. Ever since I was curious to smell the other fragrances in their range but it just never happened because I couldn’t get samples locally. This year they came to Florence and had their stand at Fragranze 16 – I could not overlook such occasion. I talked with Margaret Mangan, creator of Cloon Keen, who guided me through fragrances and candles. I’m telling you – I liked all of the scents. Lunasa and Frosted Moon stayed in my memory for long.

On that day another interesting discussion took place in a conference hall. Title of this panel discussion was ‘Asia & You’Chandler Burr as a host and 5 different people were blind-smelling around 20 fragrances and commenting whether it’s suitable for Asian market or no. The gimmick was that Chandler asked 20 random brands exhibiting at the fair to select ‘the most Asian’ scent from their range. Then at a panel those people had to come to the scene, shortly explain why they think it fits. This was followed by smelling, commenting and at the very end the name of brand and perfume was revealed. I think it was brave of all those brands since comments were often not nice. My friend, perfumer Alex Lee was one of the panelists and later when we talked he said he didn’t feel good doing it. It surely was a challenge as he didn’t want to offend anyone.

Beaufort is not a brand that belongs to the group of my brands but I decided to give a try to their new composition mostly because their stand was shared with Atelier des Ors where my friends were. New Rake & Ruin was very much like gin – super metallic, tons of juniper, lots of smoke and animalic ingredients. Absolutely not my cup of tea but at least I gave it a try, right?

Nowadays I think that Laboratorio Olfattivo is one of those brands that just have something new any time they exhibit, meaning new things are added to their range twice a year at least. After introducing a handy 30 ml bottle as well as travel kits (2 x 15 ml) now they presented a new perfume. Its name is Sacreste and it’s composed by Luca Maffei. The scent itself is very incensy but with a lot of warm oriental elements like saffron, cardamom, amber. It’s nice but not very new in terms of idea.

One of the completely new brands that appeared inside of Stazione Leopolda was Maison Rebatchi. For their debut they launched 4 fragrances but even if I’m alone in my impression I’m going to say it was a let-down. The bottles look kind of like boutique collection from Dior. Each scent was done by different perfumer and even if one of them was Bertrand Duchaufour didn’t convince me. And people there seemed annoyed they have to talk to me. I quickly lost my initial interest.

Dusita with Pissara Umavijani at its front was busy all the time but I managed to have a few minutes with her. Current focus is still on Erawan of course but Pissara let me smell the fragrance she’s been working on and which she’d like to launch in spring. Oh boy, it was very good, quite different from her previous creations… and it has a lot of iris! At Andy Tauer’s stand Les Annees 25 was the newest perfume but Andy also had his 2 candles (they just launched!) that I could smell. Extrait d’Atelier still focuses on Maitre Ceramiste – not rushing things is always good in perfumery.

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In the evening many of us went to a street party celebrating the opening of Campomarzio70 boutique at it’s new location in Florence. It was super crowded and we had to be careful because taxis and buses kept passing through. Afterwards I was supposed to get something to eat together with Nick Steward but the word spread and I actually started gathering people to come with us. We ended up having a fantastic dinner for 10 people. That’s it for day 2. Normally I would pack but not this time!

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