Tag Archives: Eau d’Italie

Golden impressions of Esxence 2018 – day 2

Adventures on my way to Milan might not have been the most pleasant or exciting ones. What happened just happened and I had to deal with it. I was ready to forget about all the obstacles because being at Esxence was some sort of a reward in the end. I was ready for another day at the show. Charged with a typical Italian breakfast (sweet one) I walked my way to the Mall.

One of the best things about my Airbnb in Milan was that I had a private room with my own balcony, so I could enjoy crispy spring morning listening to the birds chirp. Also by total coincidence the owner of the appartement was leaving for the weekend so I had a whole place for myself. First thing in my Friday agenda was to go to a panel talk hosted by Sarah Colton. The topic for it was a discussion about 10 years of Esxence. Panelists – perfumer, journalist, brand owner, fair founder talked how things changed over that time and how each of them was affected by this annual fair.

Afterwards I got a chance to have a private moment at Aedes de Venustas stand. The brand has introduced a new perfume – Musc Encense signed by a perfumer Ralf Schwieger (who also did Iris Nazarena). I was lucky because he was also available at their stand and I talked to him for 5-10 minutes. We discussed the new perfume itself which is a gorgeous blend of slightly animalic musk and incense but all very clear and transparent. I also asked him for some tips how to progress in terms of career in this industry. He was super nice and helpful, I hope his advice will help me.

Meeting with Puredistance is always a pleasure. I missed Mary who was always there but she’s enjoying motherhood right now so that’s completely understandable that she didn’t come to Milan. But other 4 girls were there to meet. The brand didn’t present a new perfume yet although they prepare for a launch closer to the end of the year. Their current news is a slightly changed packaging for 17,5 ml spray. Those vials no longer have a cap but a special pin that prevents accidental spraying. The pin comes with a metal plate with embossed perfume name and fragrance concentration. Plus you also get a metal holder with this travel size as a set.

Next I met with Pissara Umavijani – founder and perfumer of Dusita. She’s always very warm and smiling. For me it was a perfect opportunity to try Erawan. For some unknown reason I didn’t smell it at the preview in Florence. Erawan is leafy green thanks to petitgrain but it also features a very prominent note of wheat. Because of that the perfume is quite challenging but at the same time it’s unusual and creative. Any time I passed by there was a little crowd surrounding Dusita stand.

In the afternoon I took a little break from Esxence in order to visit Hermes boutique. I thought I would go there alone but a friend of mine from Poland wanted to go too, so we went together. The weather was beautiful and magnolias were blooming all around – perfect conditions for a walk. At Hermes we were treated very well and luckily all the things we wanted were available. Therefore I got my set of travel size Hermessence and the sales lady also gave me 2 samples of Eau de Citron Noir to test. We came back by metro to save time – going there and back still took us an hour.

Without a meeting a spend a couple of minutes at Histoires de Parfums stand. I like the brand and have 2 of their fragrances so I really wanted to pay attention to their new releases. A slightly ‘older’ novelties from them is En Aparte collection consisting of 3 fragrances: Irreverent, Outrecuidant and Prolixe. I will explore them more when brands sends me the samples. Hot launch included This is not a Blue Bottle 1.4 and 1.5. Inspired by ying-yang concept one is a natural-smelling synthetic and other is synthetic-smelling natural. Quite intriguing approach I must say.

I remember from the past that many of you said that you don’t like Eau d’Italie for their packaging that reminds you of a shampoo bottle. Well, I do like the bottle and the house so I met with them as well. Fior Fiore translates directly into a flower of flowers and is an ode to jasmine. However this one smells very fresh and green, it lacks indolic elements that I don’t like. It’s feminine and Innocent.
One of the lovely treats at Esxence was prepared by Menditorossa. They were launching two new fragrances however my attention was mostly drawn by Sirio. Not only I find the name captivating (inspired by Sirius, a star) but the fragrance itself was also gorgeous. It smelled like a combination of a fizzy cider made of green apples, a bit of floralties and sensually soft woods sprinkled with vanilla. The perfume tries to answers a question of who we are and where are we going.

Esxence is also a great way of reconnecting with familiar faces you have not seen for a while. I was happy to meet with Kim again. We met for the first time 3 years ago at Pitti. This time she came all the way from New York to be at Esxence and to go on holidays at Lake Como later. She not only observes a niche scene these days but she has opened a little store where she carries a couple of brands. She’s super energetic and truly outgoing. People like her are needed in the perfume world.

My dinner plans for the evening crystallized by accident when I bumped into Hiram Green! Yes, he was in Milan too, it was his first time at Esxence. He didn’t exhibit but I think he enjoyed discovering the fair as a visitor. Plus he had some meetings outside of the Mall for sure. He was meeting with his new Canadian partners from Etiket. And since I happen to be friends with them too I could join them. Call that a coincidence but with so many perfume people gathered in same city at the same time and it just happens. It’s difficult not to bump into someone you know as you walk down the street.

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Blooming inspirations of Pitti Fragranze 2017 – part 1

My summer holiday in Italy this year was a fantastic experience. For a really long time I had no idea where to spend my vacations so I’m happy that thanks to some research and tips found by my mom I planned such a great trip. I finally saw more of Milan, tasted a little bit of dolce vita during my stay at Lake Como & enjoyed my short stays in Genoa and Pisa. But most anticipated part of my Italian voyage was going to Florence for another edition of Pitti Fragranze. It was a true cherry on top.

I arrived early in the afternoon on Thursday, a little bit more than half a day before the show was starting. On the occasion of lovely weather I went for a walk to revisit popular Florentine places, such as Duomo Santa Maria del Fiore, Ponte Vecchio or Basilica di Santa Maria Novella. This time I also went to a famous Santa Maria Novella apothecary & shop. It’s a beautiful place. I bought a bottle of SMN Citta di Kyoto, a gentle cologne combining iris with lotus flower.

As I was getting hungry I tried to ask my friends if any of them was already in Florence and wanted to eat something together. But it turned out that they either had different plans, didn’t arrive yet or were simply not interested in joining me. Just when I was ready to give up and just sit by myself and eat, I was passing next to a restaurant when I was spotted by Andy Tauer. What a coincidence! I joined him at the table for Aperol Spritz and a dish of pasta. We had a nice chat. We also met Sarah McCartney and Olivier Valverde. Florence was clearly being taken over by perfume people.

Next day the Pitti Fragranze fair was starting at 10 AM. I went there a little bit earlier but thanks to using Pitti App on my phone I didn’t have to wait for a paper press pass & was able to enter as one of the first. First round in Stazione Leopolda is usually greeting with all friends. First hour passed quickly and at 11 AM I attended a Mane conference of the RAW project. This time they focused on spices in perfumery, especially on pepper & sustainability of their resources. But before that I had a chance to chat to Olivier Durbano, who presented Labradorite, his perfume #13. It’s a smoked tuberose with some not overdone animalics. I also met Nicolas Chabot, a guy behind Le Galion and Aether. At his stand I smelled new Aether Celluloid, a fantastic iris with cashmeran.

When the clock was showing it’s almost 1 PM I went out for a planned meeting with Puredistance. The brand wasn’t attending Pitti this year but Mary Gooding and Nele Tammiste were in Florence to meet with some people. We went out for a lunch together. We decided to snack at a nearby cafe bar and it was the best decision. Each of us had a great piece of foccachia with tomato sauce and melted cheese, plus we had 3 different sweet treats. Puredistance is preparing for a global launch of Warszawa right now. I enjoyed meeting with them and seeing new graphics they made.

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Further explorations brough me to Andy Tauer. We laughed again because of our accidental meeting on previous evening. He has shown his new Tauerville Patch Flash to me which is pretty unusual and not very patchouli take on this note. There was also AT Attar in Tauer Perfumes collection. Andy outdid himself with the packaging. A 5ml attar is packed in a miniature pentagonal flacon made of blue glass. So cute! I also had a chance to smell his soaps. Loved mandarin one.

Gabriella Chieffo stand was eye-catching for another year in a row. Using metal fence, polyurethane foam and paint her team created an installation that was bringing clouds to one’s mind. A well thought background to present Quasicielo (‘almost heaven’) a lovely composition of tart citrus top notes with spicy, aromatic heart and warm, resinous base. At the end of the fair I concluded it was one of my favorite fragrances this Pitti. It’s not a perfect fragrance but it doesn’t have to be. It’s first perfume made entirely by Gabriella. Previously she had lots of help from Luca Maffei.

Sarah McCartney stand was nearby so I was offered a full presentation of Our Modern Lives, a new project next to 4160 Tuesdays. There are 7 natural fragrances inspired by yoga and different moods of the day, plus 2 synthetics that are free from allergens. You can mix & match, layer them. The idea is to select one natural and one synthetic and blend them. Body sprays with 3% fragrance (see photo) were quite nice already, but 10% EdP are also available. What is very attractive about OML are the labels, featuring gorgeous drawings of plants and herbs that match ingredients.

At a combined booth of Eau d’Italie and Altaia I was able to smell 2 novelties – one for each of these two brands owned by Marina Sersale and Sebastian Alvarez Murena. For Eau d’Italie they presented Rosa Greta. Inspired by a person of Greta Garbo and her love affair, the perfume is a delicate, feminine and innocent floral bouquet with dominant rose note. Altaia presented Tuberose in Blue, a gentle white floral, tuberose for non tuberose lovers as I called it after blotter test.

Among new faces that arrived at 2017 edition of Pitti Fragranze I noticed a familiar face from before. Barbara Herman was attending the fair. It was actually my first contact with her brand – Eris Parfums. I liked the idea of her initial fragrance trio, trying to create modern versions of big vintage perfumes. I especially liked Night Flower, which was inspired by Guerlain Shalimar. On the other hand the new release, called Mx. defies gender segregation. On my skin it smelled of super creamy sandalwood with a coconut tinge. It seemed popular, many people were buzzing about it.

That’s it for a round-up of 1st day at Pitti Fragranze. When you attend it for a few years there comes a moment when you realize that year by year you smell less perfume and you spend more time talking to people. We gradually become closer friends so it wouldn’t feel right to cut out the conversation after a few minutes. Yet I think I did my best and tried a decent number of new releases, especially on 2nd day of the show. More of Pitti report coming soon! Stay tuned!

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