Tag Archives: Eau d’Italie

Blooming inspirations of Pitti Fragranze 2017 – part 1

My summer holiday in Italy this year was a fantastic experience. For a really long time I had no idea where to spend my vacations so I’m happy that thanks to some research and tips found by my mom I planned such a great trip. I finally saw more of Milan, tasted a little bit of dolce vita during my stay at Lake Como & enjoyed my short stays in Genoa and Pisa. But most anticipated part of my Italian voyage was going to Florence for another edition of Pitti Fragranze. It was a true cherry on top.

I arrived early in the afternoon on Thursday, a little bit more than half a day before the show was starting. On the occasion of lovely weather I went for a walk to revisit popular Florentine places, such as Duomo Santa Maria del Fiore, Ponte Vecchio or Basilica di Santa Maria Novella. This time I also went to a famous Santa Maria Novella apothecary & shop. It’s a beautiful place. I bought a bottle of SMN Citta di Kyoto, a gentle cologne combining iris with lotus flower.

As I was getting hungry I tried to ask my friends if any of them was already in Florence and wanted to eat something together. But it turned out that they either had different plans, didn’t arrive yet or were simply not interested in joining me. Just when I was ready to give up and just sit by myself and eat, I was passing next to a restaurant when I was spotted by Andy Tauer. What a coincidence! I joined him at the table for Aperol Spritz and a dish of pasta. We had a nice chat. We also met Sarah McCartney and Olivier Valverde. Florence was clearly being taken over by perfume people.

Next day the Pitti Fragranze fair was starting at 10 AM. I went there a little bit earlier but thanks to using Pitti App on my phone I didn’t have to wait for a paper press pass & was able to enter as one of the first. First round in Stazione Leopolda is usually greeting with all friends. First hour passed quickly and at 11 AM I attended a Mane conference of the RAW project. This time they focused on spices in perfumery, especially on pepper & sustainability of their resources. But before that I had a chance to chat to Olivier Durbano, who presented Labradorite, his perfume #13. It’s a smoked tuberose with some not overdone animalics. I also met Nicolas Chabot, a guy behind Le Galion and Aether. At his stand I smelled new Aether Celluloid, a fantastic iris with cashmeran.

When the clock was showing it’s almost 1 PM I went out for a planned meeting with Puredistance. The brand wasn’t attending Pitti this year but Mary Gooding and Nele Tammiste were in Florence to meet with some people. We went out for a lunch together. We decided to snack at a nearby cafe bar and it was the best decision. Each of us had a great piece of foccachia with tomato sauce and melted cheese, plus we had 3 different sweet treats. Puredistance is preparing for a global launch of Warszawa right now. I enjoyed meeting with them and seeing new graphics they made.

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Further explorations brough me to Andy Tauer. We laughed again because of our accidental meeting on previous evening. He has shown his new Tauerville Patch Flash to me which is pretty unusual and not very patchouli take on this note. There was also AT Attar in Tauer Perfumes collection. Andy outdid himself with the packaging. A 5ml attar is packed in a miniature pentagonal flacon made of blue glass. So cute! I also had a chance to smell his soaps. Loved mandarin one.

Gabriella Chieffo stand was eye-catching for another year in a row. Using metal fence, polyurethane foam and paint her team created an installation that was bringing clouds to one’s mind. A well thought background to present Quasicielo (‘almost heaven’) a lovely composition of tart citrus top notes with spicy, aromatic heart and warm, resinous base. At the end of the fair I concluded it was one of my favorite fragrances this Pitti. It’s not a perfect fragrance but it doesn’t have to be. It’s first perfume made entirely by Gabriella. Previously she had lots of help from Luca Maffei.

Sarah McCartney stand was nearby so I was offered a full presentation of Our Modern Lives, a new project next to 4160 Tuesdays. There are 7 natural fragrances inspired by yoga and different moods of the day, plus 2 synthetics that are free from allergens. You can mix & match, layer them. The idea is to select one natural and one synthetic and blend them. Body sprays with 3% fragrance (see photo) were quite nice already, but 10% EdP are also available. What is very attractive about OML are the labels, featuring gorgeous drawings of plants and herbs that match ingredients.

At a combined booth of Eau d’Italie and Altaia I was able to smell 2 novelties – one for each of these two brands owned by Marina Sersale and Sebastian Alvarez Murena. For Eau d’Italie they presented Rosa Greta. Inspired by a person of Greta Garbo and her love affair, the perfume is a delicate, feminine and innocent floral bouquet with dominant rose note. Altaia presented Tuberose in Blue, a gentle white floral, tuberose for non tuberose lovers as I called it after blotter test.

Among new faces that arrived at 2017 edition of Pitti Fragranze I noticed a familiar face from before. Barbara Herman was attending the fair. It was actually my first contact with her brand – Eris Parfums. I liked the idea of her initial fragrance trio, trying to create modern versions of big vintage perfumes. I especially liked Night Flower, which was inspired by Guerlain Shalimar. On the other hand the new release, called Mx. defies gender segregation. On my skin it smelled of super creamy sandalwood with a coconut tinge. It seemed popular, many people were buzzing about it.

That’s it for a round-up of 1st day at Pitti Fragranze. When you attend it for a few years there comes a moment when you realize that year by year you smell less perfume and you spend more time talking to people. We gradually become closer friends so it wouldn’t feel right to cut out the conversation after a few minutes. Yet I think I did my best and tried a decent number of new releases, especially on 2nd day of the show. More of Pitti report coming soon! Stay tuned!

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Playing with red, Eau d’Italie Graine de Joie

I have said it more than once that I love Italian perfumes. I don’t know if it’s mostly because of their stylish, classy and timeless character or maybe because the Italian way of living appeals to me in general. There could be also some deeper and more hidden reasons why the perfume art in Italy touches my heart so often. One of those Italian niche brands that I like is Eau d’Italie. They won me last year when Aqua Decima was introduced. This March the 11th fragrance was launched.

Graine de Joie, which could be translated from French to “grain of joy” in English is a fragrant composition inspired by love and it’s supposed to evoke the feeling of light-headedness when someone is falling in love. There are many perfumes in the market nowadays that have the stories of love as a base-motif for their campaigns. Did Eau d’Italie manage to say something new about love?

The perfume blossoms on my skin with a delicious, mouthwatering and juicy cocktail of red berries. It’s very playful, bright, happy-fruity and outgoing at the same time. There’s a refreshing twist to it, like a warm rain on a summer day. It gives you the energy boost that makes you want to jump, do some exercises or to be more efficient at what you’re currently doing. After 15-20 minutes red currant joins the composition introducing this slightly acidic but tasty flavour of tartness on your tongue – isn’t eating berries one of your childhood summer memories? It is for me.

After a while I begin to notice that the summer concoction of red fruits begins to weaken revealing yet another fruit in the composition, but it’s more watery, ozonic and muted. Just a little while longer and it’s possible to say that what I noticed was a pomegranate. It has a very characteristic aroma of something in between fruity, tropical and marine notes. It adds a nice quality to the perfume, making it quite easy to wear and I have no doubts this perfume is tinted with bright red color in the context of using the right essences for the composition. The berries, red currant and pomegranate seem to create a nice blend.

Two hours from the moment of applying Graine de Joie on my skin the fragrance begins to change in a slow motion. First you notice how entwined aromas of sweet and sour red fruits becomes lighter, which is then followed by some powdery notes becoming stronger. I figured out that the powdery feeling I got comes from the praline accord. It’s not overly sweet and it doesn’t give you an obvious association with chocolate. It’s not as simple as that. You smell more of a confectionery: sugar powder, some nuts – before you put all the smells together to come up with the idea of a praline.

Then there’s some freesia in the mixture of Eau d’Italie Graine de Joie. To me it smells quite interesting as it doesn’t give much of a floral bouquet, effusing the scent that I would describe as creamy, milky or soothing. It kind of resembles ylang-ylang to me, but that’s just my personal digression. The actual flower composition blooms on my skin at 3-3,5 hours mark. Those are some light and airy flowers, with delicate and fresh petals. I find it really hard to pick any specific flower in there. I find no characteristic aromas of rose or jasmine, but who knows, maybe there’s some peony in there? I don’t know. The structure of the scent is quite simple so far and this is definitely a thing people in the PerfumeLand will both like and dislike about this perfume. They’ll split in two groups.

At around 5th hour the drydown notes start to emerge from the bottom of the fragrance pyramid. There’s some cedar which provides a gentle but substantial woody element in Graine de Joie, luckily it lacks the sweaty facet which is often attached to this material. A little bit of berries and flowers are still detectable, maybe they covered the stink of sweat? The finish of this new perfume is a musk, plain, slightly clean, slightly animalic (because of the cedar I suppose). It is a nice base for a fruity scent like this one. To me the foundation of such scent should be simple and inoffensive.

Trying to answer the question if Graine de Joie is about love I would say that I think it is, although it’s not a mature love or a love for a lifetime. In my opinion this fragrance represents the first love, the one that happens in your teens when you don’t know exactly what to do, how to behave, how to express your feelings towards the other person. It’s a clumsy love that has its own charm. And I find it appealing that there’s an aphrodisiac in this perfume – pomegranate. I also think that this very fruit is a source of the name of this new Eau d’Italie perfume as pomegranate has those small red juicy grains inside. Graine de Joie is happy and happy it’s meant to be!

Eau d’Italie Graine de Joie is a composition made by perfumer Daphne Bugey. It’s concentration is eau de parfum and it’s already available on the market. The fragrance comes in a 100 ml glass bottle covered with a white lacquer making it almost non-transparent. The front of the bottle is adorned with a red label with white letters forming the name of the perfume. The design of it matches the previous creations from this perfume house, adding the color of red to their colorful, rainbow-like palette of fragrances. Graine de Joie lasted on me for around 7 hours and stayed rather close to the skin. I have to admit that I like it less than Aqua Decima or Jardin du Poete but it’s a nicy fruity scent.

[note] Pictures: 2 and 4 are my own, All rights reserved.

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