Tag Archives: El

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 36


In September 2016 Oliver & Co. presented two new fragrances, Vaninger being one of them. As you might have guessed from its name, the composition focuses on vanilla and ginger. Right upon spraying it smells of zesty lemon and fruity kumquat but very shortly ginger takes over. It releases an uplifling, fizzy smell that is fresh, citric and spicy at the same time. Spiciness becomes more intense after 20 minutes, becoming more medicated – with a smell similar to ginger tea. Then vanilla joins the composition. Its first steps are very lightweight, powdery. After a while it fully unfolds and becomes more creamy & balsamic. Turmeric adds warmth to the blend and carries on the spicy vibe. Tolu, ambroxan and benzoin make it more sensual and balmy. The finish is powdery with musks, heliotrope and hint of hedione.


Also in September 2016 Rania J. had a new perfume named Cuir Andalou on display. It was originally showed on preview in April but it still needed some changes so it took few extra months to smell the final version. The perfume opens with quite a raunchy leather that packs a powerful punch. It’s a tough, thick leather taken straight from a workshop where it was dyed black. It’s quickly followed by oud that gives it even more nocturnal and strong feeling. Then there is saffron, really dry one. Following are sandalwood and vetiver that introduce rough woody facet to the composition. Cuir Andalou smells very rugged, rough. It takes some time until it softens – that happens when powdery notes of iris and violet start diffusing. There’s also some rose and patchouli that provide warm & spicy sensation. There’s also a bit of castoreum. It’s not the strongest and wildest leather perfume I know but it definitely is tough, associated with horse saddle and strong men.


Another September launch is Arquiste Él – a perfume inspired by Acapulco of 1978 and Armando’s Le Club disco. It opens with a straightforward note of aromatic rosmery and green, slightly spicy laurels. After few minutes the composition is enriched with clary sage and it all blends into a fougere note that is very masculine from the start. Not much later things start to get dirty when Él begins to release animalic notes of civet and castoreum. Only suitable word to describe it is to say it smells sweaty. Honey adds even more wilderness to the blend. Vetiver and geranium are responsible for creating a dry yet aromatic facet but it’s not even close to weakening the wild notes. Additional notes include cinnamon, cardamom and patchouli. The perfume is very musky, very carnal. This perfume screams testosterone and when I smell it I only imagine a tanned, muscular guy, with big, hairy chest and thick facial hair. A typical macho men. This is not a perfume for people who are not self-confident!

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