Tag Archives: Esxence 2016

Time standing still, Masque L’Attesa

I love perfumes that get you into a specific mood as soon as you smell them. There is an element of magic in the fact that your sense of smell can instantly transport you into a distant place, existing or not, that you can freely change according to your liking. It’s your imagination after all. The perfume that I want to tell you about today is a composition that takes me on an evening trip to a club where they play live jazz. Imagine a spacious interior with dimmed lights filled with a bit of smoke. Old wooden tables and leathery seats nibbed by a tooth of time, they might seem a bit obscure but its them that are a true soul of the place. The atmosphere in here is undeniable.

One moment music stops to play, bands are about to change. Next minute a woman appears on stage. Wearing a gray blouse and a leather jacket she looks casually. The moment first music notes start to gently flow from the speaker and when she starts to sing the entire club reacts. Everyone turns their eyes on her. Woman’s voice, like a healing balm, mesmerized everyone who gathered there to enjoy the evening. For them it was like time was standing still. As written in press release – The soft lights seem to fondle the wrinkled sound of the old vinyl disc, and play hide-and-seek in the warm embrace of the jazz singer’s voice. All is set for the rendezvous. Are you ready?

Masque continues to develop original fragrance creations with assistance of young, budding perfumers. This year they have launched L’Attesa (Italian word meaning – the wait) which was fairly one of my favorite things that I tried at Esxence back in April. This fragrance opens on my skin with a glimpse of damp earthiness that lasts for maybe 1 or 2 minutes before it fades down. It is followed by a soft carroty aroma that feels surprisingly rich and uber luxurious. Impression of a carrot in new Masque creation comes from iris & as much as I can have issues with carrot-like iris, this one smells spectacular. I think it’s because the phase is not really long and as soon as it begins, this iris already evolves into something more woody. Earthy and woody facets entwine. In the meantime a delicious buttery vibe emerges. It’s slightly fatty, oily, with a delicate sweetness hiding underneath it.

Buttery iris feels incredibly sensual, enticing and moreover, it is one of the most luxurious iris notes I have tried lately. In style L’Attesa reminds me a little bit of Prada Infusion d’Iris Absolue. With a difference that Masque take on iris is much more substantive and longer lasting. After half an hour the perfume becomes heavier and leather notes are being introduced. Not since today we know that iris and leather go well together and this time there’s no exception. Cuir note in the perfume has a strong presence at the same time giving a very refined and soft aroma. Definitely not a horse saddle leather but more like leather gloves. Masque L’Attesa induces a cuddly mood any time I smell it.

As the fragrance develops and more notes join the composition, the perfume gains complexity and dimension without becoming overdone. First of the greater contributors to the great way L’Attesa smells is sandalwood. It feels luxurious – luminous, smooth, even slightly milky. But don’t be mistaken, this fragrance also has some dark elements about it. For example oakmoss – with its dry, shrub like scent and dusty facet it does feel more nocturnal. I think that dimmed lights mentioned earlier are a good way to describe this fragrance too. Masque newest offering also doesn’t disappoint when it comes to perfumer creativity. It contais a very weird ingredient that gave an outstanding effect. You would probably never guess it could smell like that.

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While creating L’Attesa for Masque Fragranze the perfumer decided to experiment with a CO2 extract of beer! In finished fragrance it gives that very specific, yeast-ish effect that one can associating with opening a bottle of champagne. It’s very deep and has a lot of dimension.  This extract truly enhances the quality of orris root in the blend. In addition to that, in a later stage of development, it really does smell like a sparkling champagne. It’s bubbly and uplifting in its weirdness. In the drydown phase there are some more floral tones again. There is a lovely neroli essence combined with ylang-ylang and tuberose. When they are mixed together they give quite a creamy effect on skin. Final touch is a splash of zesty bergamot rind.

L’Attesa by Masque Fragranze is the fact that duet of iris and leather is present on my skin throughout the entire evolution process and I can enjoy smelling it at any time I want. This perfume is a magnificent interpretation of iris. Any fragrance aficionado who share the same love for iris as the one I have – let me speak to you directly here for a second – you must try this one, trust me. Developed by Luca Maffei, who is quickly becoming a shining star among younger generation of perfumers, L’Attesa delivers quality and unforgettable olfactive experience. It’s sillage is moderate and it manages to survive on skin through the day, although after 6 hours you can really smell it only from a close distance. L’Attesa is an eau de parfum and comes in new, 35 ml bottle.

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Queen of the night, Aedes de Venustas Cierge de Lune

It happened in the middle of the night. He was walking down an empty street, with his sight on his feet. Then in the empty silence he noticed the sound of heels clicking on the pavement, someone was coming from afar. At some point their ways crossed. His curious eyes were observing the silhouette. It was a woman. It was too dark for him to see all the details but he just knew it was a woman of immense beauty. He might not know her name, or her face but he’ll never forget the fragrance trail she left behind. She could’ve been a queen of the night.

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American niche perfumery Aedes de Venustas has recently introduced a 6th creation in their much-loved collection. Any time I would go to Milan for Esxence I would make a list of fragrances that I definitely must try during my visit. Cierge de Lune was one of my top priorities this year – I managed to try it on the first day of the show and I instantly fell in love with it. The perfume inspired by Selenicereus grandiflorus, a night-blooming cereus – a flower that would only reveal its true beauty in the darkness of the night and wilt at the sunrise, so that only chosen once could admire its rarity. This was bound to smell magical, mesmerizing and unique – just like the story it tells. The way this perfume evolves on the skin is brilliant, and the feeling it gives to the wearer is regal. Personally I’d say this is one of the best 2016 launches by far.

Aedes de Venustas Cierge de Lune opens with an abstract crystalline accord. I don’t know exactly what creators meant by “crystalline” and how this could smell like but to me the opening provides a smell of impeccable clarity. Of something that is really light and transparent – like a prism. But this transparency and feeling of lightweight are only a premonition of something darker and much more complex that will follow just a few minutes later.

This perfume is meant to unveil a dark side of vanilla. And what it says is what it does. 5 of maybe even less minutes after applying Cierge de Lune on my wrist the composition starts to bloom beautifully. With every breath I inhale a waft of aromatic vanilla. My initial impression is that it bears some elements of rum because at first it smells a bit alcoholic to me and I could detect a smell similar to molasses used in rum production. This never too sweet vanilla evolves really quick.

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After a while a new perfume from Aedes becomes a uber sensual being. Vanilla starts to veer towards more musky direction. It becomes incredibly warm and even though it’s not officially mentioned anywhere, I seem to detect a slight hint of cinnamon. Sensual charm cast by vanilla is becoming more and more appealing as its style becomes darker. It’s like we’re making a move from a milky color of vanilla flowers to a black color of vanilla pod. It’s the same vanilla but from different point of view. Instead of pudding like sweetness you can experience more balsamic side.

The darkness of vanilla accord in Cierge de Lune has been highlighted with the use of suede. There is some characteristic fuzziness to this suede tone but more importantly it introduces the leathery feel to the composition. It’s milder than if just a normal leather accord was used as suede is gradually melting together with the entire blend. It’s the next level of sensuality when you smell new Aedes de Venustas after 1-2 hours. Perfumer and creators also decided to use a generous dose of ambroxan to add that sensual, balmy feel to the perfume. It kind of wraps it all together and ensures integrity of the blend. At some point you can also spot piquancy of black and pink pepper.

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As the time goes by, Cierge de Lune would become more floral with a creamy ylang-ylang accord that perfectly fits in the vanillic background of this perfume. And there is also a smoky aspect behind the vanilla when incense accord joins the composition. It has appeared in a very tactful way, not distracting my attention from vanilla which is obviously a main star of this fragrance. After a couple of hours when the scent has progressed all the way to base notes I could smell a lovely, powdery drydown. It smelled like a very refined and expensive cosmetic, face powder or a blush I would say.

Cierge de Lune by Aedes de Venustas is a charm of a beautiful perfume. Among many perfumes centered around vanilla, this one definitely deserves to be somewhere at the top, as something worth knowing. I definitely enjoy every time I wear this perfume. It feels special to me. Perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin did an amazing job together with Aedes founders. A second name that I gave to this perfume is “quiet seducer” because it’s sillage intensity is not enormous, it’s more quet and intimate – still the perfume posesses the power to allure. And I’m not going to oppose its charm.

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