Tag Archives: Esxence 2018

Carnal Glow, Atelier des Ors Crépuscule des Âmes

I don’t know a person who wouldn’t like to experience happiness in their life. Everyone seeks their own way to find it and, once it’s found, to keep it by your side as long as you can. As many there are people in the world, as many there are recipes for being happy. Some find it in friends & family, others in possibility to travel across the world or in doing things that let them express who they really are. Atelier des Ors wishes that you find happiness in their new fragrances, inspired by Beethoven’s 9th Symphony and Gustav Klimt’s Beethoven Frieze. A search through art, music and scent.

crepuscule-ado

Crepuscule des Ames opens with a mandarin orange note that falls far from your usual understanding of a citrus fruit. First of all I can’t smell much juiciness or freshness from it. Actually it gives off a vibe of a sliced mandarin that is drying in the scorching sun of Sicily or other summery place. Instead of the juicy burst you can experience aromatic zestiness of the rind. It has a tang with a tiny bit of sweetness behind it. While smelling it with a nose pressed to my wrist I can catch a whiff of a freshly squeezed orange juice aroma. I find it really appealing how not obvious, how different and undefined this perfume is.

After a couple of minutes cardamom joins the composition. Citrus and spice is unusual pairing and it smells just as unusual as it sounds. The warm spiciness of cardamom, its slightly roasty, crunchy aspect combines with a dry mandarin, the latter one more green now. The smell is bizarre but satisfying. Plus even though it has a warm character it smells quite fresh and not overpowering – even on a hot summer day. Clary sage in Crepuscule des Ames brings a second wave of aromatic nuances. But this time those are more herbaceous, mentholated with a hint of sweat.

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To be honest with you from the very first moment I tried this new Atelier des Ors release I realized that Crepuscule des Ames definitely has more of a masculine DNA, or to put it in other words, it’s the most masculine one in the White Collection. It’s not only clary sage that convinces me about that. I don’t know how a hyssop smells but later on I get a vegetal spiciness of a pimento. It has this fiery peppery smell that tingles inside your nose and at the same time there’s something seductive & very manly about it. It’s the element that could introduce a sexual tension between two lovers. An evening invitation to discover the unknown.

For the next 2-3 hours the perfume was changing a little bit. I could smell all of the earlier notes present in different proportions depending on the moment I smelled it. After that time I noticed that some balsamic qualities are building up in deeper layers of Crepuscule des Ames. Eventually they surface et voila – now you can smell some frankincense. It’s more balmy, chewy and sense rather than airy and spiritual kind. Hyraceum (or hyrax) is a core element of this composition. In description it smells like a combination of musk, castoreum and civet. In this case it’s mostly musk.

crepuscule-white-collection

Musky aspect of hyraceum is definitely animalic but at the same time it doesn’t have the pungency or repulsive smell like many animal-derived smells (now synthetic of course). It’s somehow elegant and sophisticated if you ask me. It has the sensuality and warmth, like the smell of man’s skin but more dirty, more wild. It’s just another part of Crepuscule des Ames that has a trail of seduction and lust. Together with patchouli that completes this fragrance, you receive a multi-layered, multi-faceted composition with depth, dimension and more than 1 nuance to play with your nose.

During my first smelling of a White Collection in Milan I remember making this funny remark to Atelier des Ors Jean-Philippe Clermont and Megan Paki that it smells like Paco Rabanne Invictus. Even if resemblance is small I still get it up to this day. Obviously Crepuscule des Ames is way more elegant, not sporty at all, and very sophisticated. Perfumer behind this fragrance is Marie Salamagne. Crepuscule des Ames is an eau de parfum presented in brand’s signature 100 ml bottle with white elements (cap, name plaque). Would you like to give this intriguing creation a try?

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Desert Road, Masque Hemingway

Ernest Hemingway surely deserves a title of one of the most memorable American novelists of 20th century. His numerous adventures, including participation in World War I or being a Spanish Civil War reporter earned him a lot of admiration of generations to come. From various sources we know that he had several women in his life and that he drank a lot. In 1961 he committed suicide. Personally I’ll remember his name mostly because The Old Man and The Sea, which I read at school. Masque Milano decided to pay homage to his person through a vetiver-centered perfume.

(Homage to) Hemingway makes a bold first impression by straightforwardly showing off its heart made of vetiver. For couple initial minutes the smell is quite dense and really oily, sitting on top of the skin as if it had difficulties to begin to evaporate. When the composition finally starts to breathe the vetiver starts to be more spacious but it doesn’t get airy or lightweight. It’s a solid and really substantive element of a new chapter in Masque story. There are several facets that entwine with each other. First one is a rugged woody aspect – with chipped edges and uneven surface. 2nd of the facets embodies hay-like aromatic dryness of the vetiver grass and its coumarin-infused properties. Last facet is more green and slightly stingy to my nose, with a scent effect similar to tannins.

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According to press release Hemingway features oils of vetiver from Haiti and Java & believe it or not but in my case vetiver is the only note I can smell from this perfume for the first couple of hours. It took as long as 4 or even 5 hours for me to be able to smell the bitterness of rhubarb – but it was a very brief appearance. There was more ginger going on in the later stage of development. It added a spicy twist to the composition with a little bit of freshness. There was also a powdery & tingly backnote to it, like a ground and dried ginger. Leather in Masque Hemingway really caught me by surprise – it’s one of the most unusual leathers I’ve smelled in years. Quite typical at first it quickly developed a resemblance to tar or even asphalt! Dark, intense and pungent. Cedarwood and patchouli ensure great longevity and depth to this weird yet thrilling perfume.

Considering the fact that Masque Hemingway really puts a heavy accent on vetiver and its multiple facets on one side, and the fact that I’m not a vetiver-frenzy person I think I did quite well wearing the scent for the sake of writing this review (I did it for you! ha!) Without much difficulties I can imagine Hemingway becoming quite popular, especially among men perfume audience since it’s much closer to masculine end of spectrum. The composition was developed by Fanny Bal from IFF. Sillage and longevity are above average. It will be available as eau de parfum in 35 ml bottles.

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