Tag Archives: Evody Parfums

Evody Parfums Collection d’Ailleurs triple review

During my perfume trip to Milan earlier this year I got to meet many wonderful people. Among them were these two ladies, Regine Droin – the mother and Cerine Vasseur – the daughter. Two of them are passionate about fragrant things and they decided to create a perfume collection. That’s how Evody Parfums was founded. At Esxence they presented a new series of scents, consisting of three fragrances that have more oriental character and are focused on ingredients such as rose, spices and incense. Collection d’Ailleurs, the Collection of Somewhere Else offers a short trip to the East. Autumn days are coming and these 3 scents will be very suitable then.

Noir d’Orient is an incredibly warm, cozy and enveloping perfume. It begins with this magnificent scent of cloves that is a little bit dry, intensively spicy but at the same time it has a very friendly and inviting aura when you smell it on the skin. Very shortly the cinnamon follows and it intensifies the spicy experience. This accord makes the perfume vibrate, it’s like a tingling of the tongue when you eat a cinnamon roll. There is also certain sweetness, really mild, mingling in the background.

After some time Evody Parfums Noir d’Orient gains a balsamic texture which is a little bit more dense and heavy, yet not too heavy. The combination of patchouli and incense introduced a lovely feeling of the smokiness. The impression of it is a bit cold at first but really soon the spices blend together with this combo and the smoke becomes warmer. To me this particular smell is reminiscent of the old wooden churches, like those you can visit in the Tatra Mountains, especially in Zakopane. Every wooden wall there smells of incense. I really like the scent like that.

Moreover the patchouli accord adds depth to this composition. The perfume develops even more spiciness after some time but it’s not as prominent as at the beginning and there are no specific spices that would dominate over the rest of Noir d’Orient. After a few hours the scent gains an additional portion of sweetness and a bit of booze. Rum is the note that marks the drydown phase of this fragrance. It’s bright, nicely saturated, rich and warm. This is a very embracing perfume.

D’Ame de Pique (eng. Queen of Spades) is centered around the rose accord. In my opinion it’s more european than middle-east-style. It’s not dark or velvety and rich. I find it to be more pale, not exactly pink but not red either. There is something fuzzy and plushy about it that I really like in this note. Shortly after the rose appears a raspberry note follows it. It has a typical ‘wild’ fruits character, it adds a nice portion of sweetness and a little bit of green aroma as well.

After a longer period of time the fruity phase becomes a softer and more juicy, kind of watery, all because of the pear note that adds more freshness and spring character to the composition of D’Ame de Pique. There is also a little bit of cassis that adds that blackcurrant leaf vibe that is slightly mentholated, but this impression is very fleeting and disappears completely when sandalwood appears on top of the composition. It brings a lovely richness filled with milky, lactonic molecules that make you think of whipped cream, meringue and all creamy things that you can eat.

Vanilla adds a finishing touch which provides a powdery feeling which is nice but it doesn’t really add anything new to this composition. As much as I’m a rose lover I find D’Ame de Pique to be a little bit too quiet and shy to make a lasting impression on people who admire different faces of rose in perfume. But if someone seeks a safe fragrance that is balanced between oriental and european style, this could be a great option for them. I gave it a try and it’s enough for me…

When you hear that the perfume is named Ombree Fumee the first think that would probably come to your mind is ‘oh, this must be an incense perfume’ and in most cases you’d be right. But not this time. The third composition in Evody Collection d’Ailleurs is mostly about… vetiver! What a surprise. The composition sets of in a woody way, revealing the vetiver chord right at the very opening. It has this dry, woody and earthy aroma that after a while becomes more aromatic, creating a bigger aroma volume around the wearer. The vetiver has a slightly green background.

It is created with cypress note, which is aromatic, slightly oily and verdant. After one hour the aromatic stage created by cypress and vetiver becomes a little bit piquant, spicy thanks to the black pepper note. This accord also carries the typical metallic feeling. For a while Ombree Fumee remains linear but after another 1 hour some additional notes start to appear.

Tonka bean is among them but to my surprise it doesn’t introduce the aromatic and creamy facet with hints of spiciness we all know from many other perfumes featuring tonka. In this perfume it smells dry and a bit rugged. Possibly because of the ambergris note that appears not long later, adding the mineral vibe to the perfume. There’s also something slightly salty about it (like it indicated that ambergris comes from the ocean). The drydown of Ombree Fumee has a lot of musk that is smelling animalic, like a sweaty human body but in an acceptable level.

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Collection d’Ailleurs from Evody Parfums was created by perfumer [will update] All fragrances are made in eau de parfum concentration, they come in 50 ml bottles. The bottle design is the same as for the earlier fragrances, the only difference being that bottles are brown-ish with a gold hue instead of black. These compositions have moderate sillage and they last for around 6-8 hours.

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Mother’s care, Evody Parfums Cuir Blanc

Some of our perfume discoveries are simply driven by fate or some other higher force. That is the case for me and Evody Parfums. I haven’t heard of this niche brand until March 2014, when at Esxence Anais Biguine of Jardins d’Ecrivains introduced me to her friend, whose stand was just w few meters away. That’s how I stumbled upon Cerine Vasseur and Regine Droin – daughter & mother who combined their passion for scents, giving birth to a fragrance line and called it EVODY.

In a few years the collection grew up to 8 fragrance compositions, each focusing on a different materials and smells. As Cerine guided me through all the perfumes I quickly realized that the seventh blend I was given to try is my favourite one and it felt very “me” on the paper, so I decided to wear it on skin as well, since I had a free spot on my arm to use. The name was Cuir Blanc.

The opening of Cuir Blanc gives a sharp alcoholic vibe before the alcohol evaporates completely. I guess I was to greedy to smell it and didn’t wait long enough for ethanol to float away. As soon as it dries on your skin the perfume story begins. Just as the name suggests this is a leathery perfume and leather is the first accord that unveils upon application. It is this lovely kind of leather which smells very delicate, soft, thin and a little bit fluffy. It’s more like the high quality suede, perfect to make fitted gloves. It can embrace you in a luxurious feeling like you were wearing some haute couture garment.

The delicacy of the suede-leathery opening is counterparted with the note of saffron, which adds warmth and a lovely hint of spiciness, measured with perfection to complement the leather, not to overpower it. Evody Parfums Cuir Blanc is now very tender, sensual and also quite intimate in my opinion. After about an hour the perfume begins to build-up a powdery facet. There’s a solid dose of musk in this perfume – at the start it’s more powdery but as the progress is recorded it becomes more milky, slightly lactonic and creamy but in a light way, think – whipped cream.

Before I found out what notes create Cuir Blanc I already knew that iris is an important part of this perfume blend. Waiting for a reaction, Cerine confirmed that my nose was right smelling iris. The noble note of iris in this perfume has a few faces. At first it’s sheer powdery (but not talcy), kind of reminding me of Prada Infusion d’Iris but with less powderness to it. At some point iris turns more buttery and rooty with a noticeable earthy undertone to it. This part of the perfume lasts relatively long, 2-3 hours actually. What I really like about is that it continues to bring all those stronger ingredients in a very gentle way.

After having Cuir Blanc on my skin for four hours, came the moment when I got quite confused! You might ask why and I’ll tell you – I started smelling the lily of the valley accord. No kidding! I returned to Evody Parfums booth at Esxence to investigate the case. Cerine said this perfume doesn’t contain this note but when she smelled the perfume on my arm she nodded and said that she also gets the same vibe that I do. The next time I wanted to smell the fragrance on my skin, the surprising guest was not there anymore. What a relief! I really didn’t want lily of the valley here.

Further line explorations as reading the press release I received from Cerine I formed a theory that it was a violet leaf that somehow transformed to giving a lily-of-the-valley-like aroma in the company of other ingredients of Cuir Blanc. Continuing the review, later the perfume was pleasing me with a transparent and luminous amber accord which was slightly animalic but it also had a little vanilla and caramel feeling to it. There was also a bit of thyme which made the composition a little bit more herbal and even more entertaining. Suedy leather, powdery iris and sweet amber create a trio of the notes that last on your skin for the longest.

To many of you Cuir Blanc might seem to quiet, too polite but that’s exactly what is a trump of this fragrance. The brand manage to render as powerful ingredients as leather or saffron and present them to the public in their softened, sensualized form without making anything more simple. It’s true that Cuir Blanc is not very complicated but it has its own level of complexity. Those who want to understand it – they will understand it. I think the perfume is beautiful even though it’s evolution isn’t big and it stays rather linear but with best ingredients for me.

Evody Parfums Cuir Blanc is a part of Collection Biographique which reflects different stages of Cerine Vasseur life through fragrance. Cuir Blanc is a time of Cerine’s pregnancy which totally explains the gentle character of the perfume. The fragrance is available as 50 ml and 100 ml eau de parfum bottled in black glass flacons with white labels and a crown-like cap with a house logo embossed on top of it. The creator is Alexandra Monet with assistance of Cerine Vasseur. It launched in 2011.

[note] All pictures are my own, all rights reserved. A bottle of Cuir Blanc was a gift from Cerine Vasseur of Evody Parfums.

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