Tag Archives: exotic

June perfume workshop report, part 2 of 2

Alright! We’ve been through the pure essences of citrus and exotic fruit. Some were natural and some were just artificial, chemical imitations of the real smell. The pattern of the previous workshop was to listen to the chemical and technology background of the note. This was all covered by Ania, who was introduced in May perfume workshop report. Then we tried the essence and after that it was followed by a couple of perfumes representing it.

This time everything was done in a similar manner. In total we tried 26 different perfumes. There were more prepared for sniffing but the basic number was 26. If someone didn’t have enough, they could give a try to some more after the official part of the workshop was over. I made this collage below for you, so that you can accompany me during this short travel through all the tested fragrances.

From the two bergamot perfumes we tried Jean Charles Brosseau Bergamote had too much melon to my taste while Cologne pour le Matin by Maison Francis Kurkdjian was a very subtle and pleasant scent that brought to my mind the association of fresh laundry. Clean, airy and fresh.

Atelier Cologne Mistral Patchouli was representing a grapefruit accord. It was much more patchouli than grapefruit to me. I reviewed it in January. 1828 inspired by Jules Verne was great! A tart grapefruit with a lovely note of pine tree. Histoires de Parfums is one of those brands I love almost for every single scent.

Trying some lemon perfumes was probably the most exciting part for me. I love lemon scents (mind my newest Acqua Decima!) so I was curious to see what Missala family prepared for us to try. Gosh, it was amazing! I was head over heels for Profvmvm Roma Acqua Viva! What a juicy and sparkling lemon it is! It has a blast of Annick Goutal Eau d’Hadrien but it lasts for 6 hours and more. Did you know that Profvmvm Roma put more than 40% of perfume oils into their perfume. Kafka recently fell in love with the brand! Another one that positively surprised me was Mediterraneo by Carthusia. Juicy and sour lemon with a beautiful vibe of green tea, eucalyptus and thyme. Very refreshing!

For lime we only tried Colette, another perfume from Histoires de Parfums range, named with a date of 1873. Once again I was really happy with the small, I liked everything in this fragrance. One of my favourites from this workshop.

I loved sampling Grand Neroli, an Atelier Cologne perfumes and also one of the earliest niche offerings I tried. I really like its pure, soapy neroli smell. I could bathe in it! Historiae Orangerie du Roy was a really good scent too. This brand is not much known and it deserves more appreciation. So far they released 5, mostly floral scents but they recently introduced a good rose-oud scent. On the contrary Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine is one of the few scents in the line that I have mixed feelings about. On one hand I like the pure orange juice smell but on the other hand it often gets artificial and plasticky on my skin.

Honore’s Trip, a perfume from Honore des Pres wasn’t excellent but it left a generally positive impression. Nothing too fancy or complicated, easy to wear scent. It can definitely have a group of fans. For yuzu we samples Olfactive Studio Still Life – I tried it in the past. My opinion on it didn’t change. It’s just OK, nothing more. And I get very poor longevity from the entire line. Still it was nothing comparing to Parfum d’Empire Yuzu Fou. This one was disastrous. It smelled totally sweaty and dirty. Now I understand why there were so many comments about sweaty armpits.

Carla Fracci Colette and Rance Eugenie left me rather indifferent. I don’t like melon in my diet and I don’t like it in perfume. Both fragrances were quite watery with some powdery facets. Definitely possible to like and love, but not for me.

Number 16, Biehl pc01 was interesting. It has mango but it’s not straight-forward. Montale Mango Manga was very in-your-face. It was sweet and milky with a buttery texture of the fruit pulp. It was also really intensive to me as for a fruity perfume. Manguier Metisse was warm and with pronounced tropical aspect. I liked this offering from Huitieme Art Parfums.

I wasn’t impressed with banana fragrances. Penhaligon’s was powdery and it actually smelled of banana while Fleur de Liane had nothing to do with it. Considering my hard relationship with L’Artisan Parfumeur I will quickly forget about it.

Time for some coconut. Love Coco was lovely. Powdery, fleshy and full-bodied. Ombre Platine wasn’t really to my liking and for Batucada (another L’Artisan!) I even forgot to take any notes! That says it all! Last group of perfumes was representing peach.

One I remember well is SoOud Ouris. It was a very happy, milky perfume that smelled very similar to the peach cheesecake. Yummy! If you read my Quick Sniffs you already know my opinion that By Kilian Flower of Immortality smells like peach Nestea and that it’s not a compliment. Last one was M.Micallef Vanille Fleur – it was warm, sweet with a generous dose of caramel. Had not much to do with peach.

I’d like to say thank you to Missala family for organizing another perfume workshop and to Ania for teaching us some new things about the notes and perfumes. I spent a lovely time in Warsaw having fun with all the perfume enthusiasts. I’m sure we’ll meet again soon!

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June perfume workshop report, part 1 of 2

Last Friday I took a lovely weekend trip to Warsaw. Another perfume workshop organized by Quality Missala perfumeries took its place in the capital city. Warsaw is not as close to me as Wrocław but since all my exams are finished I decided to go on a weekend voyage there. My decision was also influenced by the fact that the theme of June workshop was really right up my alley as it was about citrus & exotic fruit. As you know citrus is one of my favourite groups so I just had to be there.

I arrived in Warsaw on Friday afternoon and the workshop was starting at 11 a.m on Saturday. After I checked in at the hotel I was staying I took a stroll around Warsaw city centre. The next day, after a small breakfast, I took a tram to Bemowo, one of the districts of Warsaw, where Quality Missala perfumery house is located. There, at the conference hall above the actual perfumery the workshop was held. The day was hot, luckily we had some mild air conditioning and cold drinks there.

Everyone was treated with a fruit punch made of juicy citrus and pieces of strawberries were floating in it too, cold mint water with lemon and a strawberry cheesecake. We were ready to start sniffing.

The scheme of this workshop was done in a similar manner like the previous meetings. First Ania gave us some chemical, technological and botanical background, she told us about different processes of obtaining essential oils from different citrus, exotic fruits and that they can be obtained from different parts of the fruit. This time I took some notes to make this report easier to write. In this part I will share my thoughts on all the essences tested. In part 2 I will feature all the perfumes tried.

First was bergamot essence. It was really acidic, with a sweet and sour feeling. Very juicy and mouth-watering. It had a very happy smell, it would perfectly fit to some sweet, creamy desserts. Essence we tried was made from Italian bergamot.

Grapefruit was up next. It had a juicy, tart smell, uplifting and invigorating. I really liked this essence of American grapefruit. It didn’t smell like an actual fruit but like a glass of juice.

Lemon from California had a very happy smell and it was literally bursting with joy. The intensity of the smell was quite in your face but I enjoyed it. This essence was obtained by the cold pressing of the citrus which means the that the oil came from squeezing and pressing the whole fruit in cold or room temperature. Then it was filtered to separate any particles of the pulp from the oil and juice.

For an interesting comparison we got another lemon essential oil to smell. It was lemon from Calabria. It was sweeter on my skin and reminded me of Nimm2 lemon candies. I love their taste and smell. After a few hours both lemons lost their citrus edge and they smelled really green, of leaves and twigs. Interesting.

Another aroma we tried was one of Mexican lime. It was delicious and it smelled almost like Mojito drink but without mint and alcohol. It had a relaxing scent to me.

Next was neroli which I think was my favourite essence of that day. Neroli is an essential oil obtained from bitter orange flowers in a process of water distillation. It had a floral, clean and soapy smell which was couple of times intensive that the simplest neroli fragrances available. Simply gorgeous. Neroli’s relative – petit grain, the essence of bitter orange flowers, leaves and twigs was next in the lime to smell. Oh my God, it was awful. It was sweaty, almost beefy in style. Very bad thing to wear alone! Essence tried was of petit grain from Paraguay.

Then we tried the perfume oil made from the orange pulp. What a happy and vigorous scent that was. Like a freshly squeezed juice and the smell was actually pretty close to Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine. Simple and charming smell, pretty edible. Tangerine had a very subtle, slightly sweet vibe but on the whole it was really hard to smell anything from the strip. Sicilian tangerine had a little bit more intensive aroma but still it was very light.

Essence of yuzu was just ok, I didn’t fell for it but it didn’t repel me either. Then we samples the smell of melon. It was a synthetic combination of different aroma chemicals to recreate the real melon aroma. It is impossible to obtain the natural lemon extract. It possessed kind of sweet, honeyed, watery aroma. Mango we tried was also artificial. It’s possible to obtain natural essence of it but it’s totally against the economy, it’s so expensive. I could barely smell it, only some subtle, fruity-oily nuances. We also has a synthetic peach, aldehyde C-14 that smelled creamy and lactonic. It had that mild fruity vibe combined with the smell of fuzzy peel.

Last two perfume oils we tried were banana and coco. They shared some similarities. Both were milky and tender, but coco had an additional fluffiness and a lot of creamy, desserty vibe I liked.

After a finished workshop we talked a lot, spend some more time downstairs in a perfumery, we tried what we wanted without sticking to the citrus-exotic theme. We just had a lot of fun. Then a few newly met friends I knew earlier online and I went to have a dinner together. We exchanged our experiences, sniffed some samples as everyone had something to show to the others. I didn’t even notice when the time passed and from 10 in the morning in was 7 in the evening. I had a great time!

Stay tuned, in a few days I will post part 2 to tell you about perfumes for each of these fruits.

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