Tag Archives: Gallivant

Crossing Paths, Gallivant Bukhara

If a year ago someone told me that countries will be literally ‘closing down’ because some nasty virus is spreading across the world I wouldn’t believe them. It would’ve been a great scenario for a catastrophic movie thought. Except it’s became reality. At times when easy travelling is not that easy anymore, fragrances that evoke the atmosphere of distant places are even more sought after. At least in my case. Thanks to brands like Gallivant, 2020 can be a year of armchair travel. Perfume can be both a journey and the destination. And you can experience it from the comfort of your home.

Gallivant Bukhara announced itself with a wave of spicy goodness & it’s a soft reveal rather than abrupt burst. Dry coriander mingles on the skin giving off a light piquancy with a noticeable earthy undertone. It is followed by caraway that gives the perfume more warmth and sensuality of the body heat. It’s a sophisticated, light touch. The spiciness here is structured and feels kind of grainy, like a surface of an old parchment. There is also bergamot and pear, both briefly noticeable for me. The opening here is like a quiet seduction, an invitation to stay longer & see what comes next.

I mentioned the earthy undertone of coriander for a reason because I think that’s what takes us to the roots of this perfume in both literal and metaphorical meaning. Iris is a shining star in Bukhara. On my skin the top notes are almost skipped, letting me smell the orris almost immediately after applying. It received a grand treatment from a perfumer and the result is a wealth of various colors and textures that come one after another. At first it’s cold, like a marbled stone inside of a temple. After a minute or two it warms up, becomes vegetal – giving you an impression of a carrot.

Immediately washed with the running water, the perfume feels kind of fresh. That is until it makes us reach deeper into the ground. At this point Bukhara turns into a rooty iris, blending the smell of dry and wet soil with a raw richness of the orris rhisome. It’s a dense aroma with a little bit of dirt. But the waxy & buttery facets that come up later give an impression of something luxurious and very valuable as a gift of nature. At times I can pick up a little bit of something smoky, like an incense ash. That ashy vibe takes me to the faint eugenol scent, the smell of clove – spice with a bit of warm, caramelized sweetness.

When Gallivant Bukhara takes us above the ground the smells to experience are slightly different. Iris becomes more mellow & floral with its characteristic smoothness of silk. It has a slightly chalky, off white feel in the back too, that could be a nod to white buildings in the city of Bukhara. There’s a flash of jasmine and a fruited scent of apricoty osmanthus that enrich the fragrance in later stage. It’s quite a prominent element thanks to its fruity ripeness and a lovely floral aspect to it. In my opinion it’s due to this note that this composition feels more playful and with more youthful energy.

I get to enjoy the play of numerous orris facets for many hours before Bukhara shifts towards the base. Foundation of this perfume is build on warm, soft-almost-like-a-plush saffron accord that provides a cuddly & comforting feel. It plays so well together with the luminosity of resinous benzoin and bright, balsamic amber tones. Some woody tones are revealed later and last but not least there’s a soft musk that binds everything together with an invisible thread. It’s a harmonious journey of iris reflected in various dimensions and structures. A real treat for all the orris lovers out there. I’m telling you!

Bukhara by Gallivant is a beautiful perfume that had me with its intricacy & complexity of numerous facets it posesses. Some real treasures used to be exchanged via Silk Road between East and West world, with city of Bukhara being an important stop. Perfumer Ralf Schwieger really captured the uniqueness of each precious ingredient and he turned iris into a true diamond that reflects all the colors of the rainbow. You can smell the same precision and attention to detail in Bukhara as in Aedes Iris Nazarena even though both are quite different on skin. New Gallivant Bukhara is an eau de parfum and comes in neat 30 ml bottle size. I think it’s their best fragrance up to date.

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Smell you soon (I hope)

Under normal circumstances two weeks ago I would have travelled to the West and above the Alps to spend a magnificent weekend in Florence, Italy. There, during Pitti Fragranze, I would’ve had a chance to smell my way through a few dozens, if not a hundret of new perfume releases. We all know why it just didn’t come to be this year and why I had to stay at home, just like many other people who love frangrances as much as you or me. I miss Esxence and Pitti for obvious reasons – I can’t try as many new scents as I’d like to, I can’t meet my friends, both writers and brand owners, perfumers. Finally I can’t be in Italy, even if it were just for 2-3 days, to enjoy their delicious cuisine along with a glass of prosecco or aperol spritz. But those good days will come back, won’t they?

At times of global pandemy one can wonder how niche perfumery will deal with this new and very difficult state. I was thinking that brands might postpone their new launches & wait for better times since without these exhibitions it must be harder to bring same level of buzz & attention to the new compositions. And while I have an impression that niche brands have slowed down due to Covid-19, many have already adapted and present the fruit of their work to the public with the help of social media platforms. Of course it has less splendour than a special spotlight at the stand in Milan or Florence but curiosity of ‘hungry’ perfume fans eventually wins. I’m thankful to any brand who reached out to me during these difficult times. Without them I would write even less…

There’s a bunch of new or soon-to-be-released fragrances that I’m really looking forward to trying. Let me share a couple of them with you – maybe we’ll be together in the feeling of excitement?

Over the years we all got accustomed to a slow-paced creation process at Puredistance and that our waiting will be rewarded with something luxurious and of highest quality. Announced for October please be introduced to Rubikona – this perfume, with a name resulting from the junction of words ruby and icon, will be an 11th composition in brand’s portfolio. For a second time Jan Ewoud Vos invited Cecile Zarokian (Sheiduna, 2016) to collaborate. This will be a spicy floral, 28% perfume.

I like Gallivant but I know some of you don’t. However there’s always a but to a but. Have you ever heard of the city of Bukhara? Worry not, neither have it. It’s somewhere in Uzbekistan and Nick Steward decided this will be another location to pinpoint on the map of his fragrant journeys. My way to convince you to try it? It’s an iris. Orris! Hello! By perfumer Ralf Schwieger at that. I love Iris Nazarena he composed for Aedes. I know Gallivant has different easthetics but I think it’ll be fab.

In my opinion Perris Monte Carlo is one of those brands that aren’t very much spoken of which is totally unfair because they make great perfume. Some time ago I was captivated by Mimosa Tanneron which I long to try. I know it’s the first day of astronomical autumn today but why can’t I have some yellow cheer all year round? Dedicated to pom-pom flowers that grow around Grasse, this watercolor-like flower is now interpreted by Jean-Claude Ellena, a master of watery scents.

More iris? But of course! Is there such thing as enough iris for me? To be honest I rarely get excited by the releases in the mainstream perfume segment these days. Same goes for the more exclusive boutique lines from big brands. This time my interest was tickled when I read about Iris Torrefie from Guerlain, joining Art et la Matiere line. Orris with coffee? This could either go super right or super wrong. I signed up for a decant so I hope to make my own judgements soon.

Listen, I know what you might think but I’m not a real devotee of Memo. It just happens that I like a few fragrances from the brand. I actually find Italian Leather and Winter Palace to be the only 2 that would fit in my collection. New in Art Land collection is Odeon, named after Parisian theatre. Blend of rose, candied date, tonka and sandalwood sounds promising. There’s also Sintra, also new, with a Morrocan tiles motif on the bottle – but it’s supposed to smell like marshmallow, so not for me.

Are there any fragrances you’re waiting for to smell? Or maybe any of these 5 sounds interesting?

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