Tag Archives: Gian Luca Perris

Red Sun, Perris Monte Carlo Arancia di Sicilia

Year ago in September I departed for my summer holidays. I flew all the way to the South of Italy to spend a week in Sicily. Little did I know that it’s going to be one of my most memorable vacations. Waking up at 5 AM almost every day wasn’t my best idea for dolce vita but the weather and all the sights compensated shorter sleep. It was also a naturally fragrant time as ripe fruit, orange granita and freshly pressed orange juice were available at almost every corner, first announced by their scent. Iconic blood orange from Sicily deserves a perfume. Perris Monte Carlo just did one!

Arancia di Sicilia welcomes you with a great bounty only a Mediterranean country like Italy could offer. First impression – a refreshing, full-bodied and photorealistic scent of blood orange. Zesty aroma of the peel and sweetness of the ruby-tinted fruit light up the senses, wake you up and create a craving for the juiciest & most delightful bite ever that will drip down from your chin onto a t-shirt that you’re wearing. It’s this kind of scent that feels lustful and mouth-watering at the same time. There’s a beautiful complexity and dimension to this inconspicuously simple Sicilian orange opening. This effect has been achieved by using two varieties of Sanguinella Orange essential oils.

Brown essential oil comes just from the rind while Sfuma Torchio oil comes from a full fruit pressing followed by separation of the oil from the juice. Right from the beginning Arancia di Sicilia is a very sunny perfume but after a little while it really starts to warm up. This warmth gradually evolves into a sweet smoothness of almond. This new facet intrigues me because initially it smells to me like limoncello, I swear, but then after a couple minutes more it becomes more like an amaretto, with a fine liqueur smell to it and some booziness. Don’t expect something very alcoholic here as it’s only just a hint. But this hint is exactly what this perfume needs to be different among citrus fragrances.

arancia

Following after this liquory almond trail is a small portion of cinnamon. Just a small bit is enough to spark a delicate tingle of spiciness in one’s nose and to give Arancia di Sicilia a twist nobody would expect from a perfume dedicated to blood orange. It’s not a prominent element of this fragrances but is noticeable among other ingredients. Shortly after vanilla joins the composition, only this one smells quite unusual too. It’s got some airiness to it and volume, like a creme chantilly which combines whipped cream, sugar and vanilla. Like a more sophisticated way of presenting a perfume note to the wearer, if you know what I mean. It’s delicious but you can still eat some more.

Drydown of Arancia di Sicilia is a toned down combination of notes that via their olfactive profiles evoke the ending of a long and sunny day in paradise. Labdanum enriches the perfume with balsamic, slightly gooey smokiness. It has elegance and charm. When I inhale the perfume on my skin I can still pick the scent of orange and how well it combines with cistus. Then there’s some powdery iris, not much but it still grabs my heart, an absolute of coffee that adds a little bit of darkness. Last but not least there are some ambery tones that add delicate oriental touch to new Perris Monte Carlo scent. Fluffy musky sensuality is what brings the perfume to its finale.

Perris Monte Carlo surely deserve praise for creating Arancia di Sicilia. You simply cannot be indifferent to something so delightful and mouth-watering. It’s a citrus elevated to a new level due to unusual use of ingredients like almond, cinnamon or labdanum that are normally not associated with fresh perfume for summer. Arancia di Sicilia is a beautiful and honest homage to the Island of Sicily and its iconic Sanguinella Orange. It brought back memories from year ago when I visited Etna, Lipari Islands and Palermo among other places. Perfumer Gian Luca Perris did a great job sharing a part of Italy with us. This eau de parfum has nice longevity and sillage. Available in 100 ml bottles.

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Italiamore, Three from Perris Monte Carlo

Summer is almost over and while most people already managed to forget they were on holiday and children are about to go back to school, there are still some who didn’t get a chance to enjoy their summertime away from work. Me included – but that’s about to change. Out of many vacation destinations I have never been to, for a 3rd year in a row I chose Italy for my time of a wind down & relaxation. This time I will visit yet another part of it. How could I not write about fragrances from Perris Monte Carlo inspired by Italy before taking my annual break from blogging?

cedro-diamante

Cedro di Diamante focuses on bounty of citron. This composition opens with a wonderfully juicy, freshly squeezed lemon aroma. It has an oily facet that adds more richness and intensity. Its take on lemon is quite sweet until citron and lime come to the center of attention. These 2 are also very juicy and lively but instead of sweetness they are built of several layers – One is fresh & green, the next one is more tart and zesty while another one gives Cedro di Diamante a tad more bitterness and acidity. It’s totally mouth-watering and drinkable (but don’t!) Verbena CO2 extract adds a lemony floral vibe that is more balsamic and harbaceous in perception. After 20 minutes the scent warms up. There’s a sparkling sensation coming from pink pepper (CO2 again!) and is followed by a fresh, citric tingle of ginger. Over time peppery vibe gets bulkier so that metallic particles can be smelled. Cedro di Diamante also features sichuan pepper which surely participated in strengthening this part of fragrance. I didn’t get very much of cardamom. After some time the perfume became rounder, softer and muskier. At this point I could smell some powdery iris serving as a background to the citrus main actors. And oakmoss created some duskiness built around shrubs and woods. A truly pretty fragrance.

mandarino-sicilia

Mandarino di Sicilia couldn’t be a composition built around anything else than mandarin. This fragrance doesn’t open, it literally bursts in contact with your skin, releasing a delicious cloud scented with super freshness. Invigorating splash of chilled green mandarin from Italy provides an instant mood-boost. So tasty that I’m salivating & so close to the real thing that if I felt warm breeze on my skin and heard leaves rustling, I would probably feel as if I were in Italy. Bitter orange adds even more flavor and its bitter facets entwines with mandarin sweetness. Some time later Mandarino di Sicilia becomes greener in a Mediterranean way. Paraguayan petitgrain has a dry green scent, reminiscent of succulents & it has some dusty facet too. Heart of the composition reveals floral notes – there’s a sheer and airy jasmine that makes the perfume more sensual and pretty. I call it a summer jasmine note – that reminds me of California Reverie by Van Cleef & Arpels. Of course there’s also orange blossom that introduces white-tinted freshness with a citrus background with a tiny screech to it. Contrasting with it and appearing later is geranium that adds a crunchy green vibe. Couple of hours later reveal the smell of cedarwood chips and some muskiness blended with delicate amber. Very relaxing.

bergamotto-calabria

Finally we have Bergamotto di Calabria, an olfactory nod to bergamot which at the same time is probably the most iconic fragrance ingredient coming from Italy. It opens with a very tart and sour bergamot scent. It’s quite pungent citrus opening at first but after a couple of minutes it calms down. When it does, zestiness of bergamot becomes much more pronounced and dominates with its aromatic molecules. Petitgrain and peppers (pink and sichuan) kind of create the impression of a jungle filled with lush verdancy with a spiced up feeling in the distance. Heart of this one is similar to Mandarino di Sicilia. It has jasmine, neroli and orange blossom but all 3 feel more saturated and definitely more acidic & zesty. When drydown kicks in I firstly notice the dryness of vetiver gradually taking over. It’s grassy, reminiscent of hay smell but with coumarin replaced by more woody, rooty scent. Lucky for me that it doesn’t smell earthy. Sandalwood and its substantivity smooth any sharp edges and allow a seamless transition to further elements of the base. There’s a soft, fluffy muskiness that sort of melts with natural skin odour but is enhanced with iris that in this case has a silky-powdery finish. It feels elegant and I have to say that bergamot is still there somewhere, even after couple of hours.

All three fragrances from Perris Monte Carlo Italian Collection are really well made. They are fresh, uplifting and effervescent, combining a traditional eau de cologne summery charm with modernity of other ingredients like woods and spices.To accent lightness of these compositions the brand decided to use sleek transparent bottle with golden cap & name plate. Bottle features brad’s signature white pattern that kind of gives it a frozen look. Cedro di Diamante was developed by Luca Maffei, Mandarino di Sicilia by Gian Luca Perris and Bergamotto di Calabria is their joint work. These eau de parfums have decent sillage and longevity but I still wish they lasted longer on my skin.

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