Tag Archives: Grandiflora

Silky Touch, Two Magnolias from Grandiflora

Do you remember my post from late May? The one in which I talked about different flowers or fruit that are used in fragrances but for which, in my opinion, there’s still a space for improvement? Among them magnolia was the most important to me. I don’t know that many scents featuring it. I can name a couple from the top of my mind but those I tried can be counted with fingers of just one hand. Two magnolias from Grandiflora are highly recommended if you want to explore the note.

magnolia-sandrine

Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine, composed by Sandrine Videault, happened to be her last fragrance before she suddenly passed away on 3rd of July 2013. Profound burst of citric notes with a very prominent grapefruit accord announces the opening of this scent. Its tart, acidic juiciness is quite mouth-watering but at the same time I detect some tangy bitterness placed in the 2nd plan. Relatively quickly more nuances start to come up from this perfume. Black pepper note becomes detectable within first ten minutes. I find it scratchy and somewhat raspy, with an undeniable dose of spiciness that oscillates rapidly, going deeper into my nose by doing so. What I have no doubt about is that it also has quite a metallic edge to it. This particular facet also seems to draw out a slightly sweaty sensation from grapefruit. After some time Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine gains more substantivity through woody notes – these smell quite dry and rough-surfaced. Somewhere behind I notice pleasant mingling of green notes. During the next couple of hours the notes entwine, beautifully recreating a balmy & lemony aspect of magnolia flowers. Then in drydown the perfume becomes slightly more watery with a marine touch, all resting on top of a cotton-like musky pillow.

magnolia-michel

Michel Roudnitska gifted his own interpretation of magnolia to Saskia Havekes as a tribute to Sandrine’s life and in honour of her memory (she studied perfumery under Edmond Roudnitska). Magnolia Grandiflora Michel has a crisp opening that at the first moment reminds me of a crunchy green apple – it’s fresh, tart and bitter-sweet. A little bit later my impression fades away and is replaced by a mix of citrus notes such as lemon, grapefruit and bergamot. It feels more zingy and juicy, at the same time having a nice smoothness. Heart of this perfume is a wonderful rhapsody of flowers. All of the elements are gentle, graceful and elegant. A little bit of creaminess from ylang-ylang combines with a slightly richer tones of jasmine. That transitions into the smell of rose – pure and delicate as a morning dew. Finally magnolia itself wraps it all together. The smell of it, a marriage of fragile lemony tones, watery-floral nuances and a silky texture of petals make Magnolia Grandiflora Michel the closest and most realistic magnolia fragrance I know up to date. In the drydown vetiver blends with musk, the effect is a grassy/woody base but with softened edges. I didn’t notice patchouli. It’s a very wearable and versatile scent. Can’t imagine someone disliking it.

***

Both Magnolia Grandiflora Sandrine and Michel are very pretty and at the moment the way they have been interpreter is the closest to the smell of actual magnolia flower in bloom. Both wear effortlessly and are especially enjoyable during spring and summer season – a great alternative to citrus freshness for a hot day. I find Michel Roudnitska’s version to be more to my liking. Both compositions are eau de parfum and now come in 50 ml black glass bottles with white, paper label.

Advertisement
Tagged , , , , ,

Australian treasure, Grandiflora Boronia

To me Australia is the most undiscovered continents of them all, or at least a one I know least about. What I know is that their fauna and flora are completely different to what I’m used to, many of animals they have are very dangerous and they have hundred of plants I’ve never heard of. As it happens they also have 1 wonderful perfume brand which remained unknown to me until very recently. Grandiflora, a flower shop in Sydney that decided to step into perfume world has completely won me with their Queen of the Night. Today I will tell you about their 2017 launch.

Grandiflora Boronia opens quite herbaceous and aromatic, reminding me of hay in its dryness. Several minutes later it becomes sweeter, releasing a unique fragrance material which is boronia flower. This native to Australia flower has an interesting smell. It’s like a combination of tobacco flower, jasmine and herbs. I can smell a white floral vibe while wearing it but it feels muted, toned down. It’s not a heady bouquet of flowers but something more shy and dusty. I quite like it because it’s more casual than posh & it has that lovely warmth coming from underneath its top layer.

This warm aura given by Boronia makes me think of it as of slightly more masculine fragrance and that feeling becomes stronger over time. After a while a gentle woody smokiness arises from my skin. It’s again dry, aromatic, maybe a little bit spicy too. Recognized by me as tobacco it adds a smoky feeling & since it’s not paired with vanilla it leaves more austere impression of a chewy tobacco. Additional flavor is added by cognac. Once it gains some intensity it actually creates a boozy, alcoholic vibe. It feels warm, a bit anisic, with undertone of cloves mingling occasionally.

boronia

After some time this cognac accord, which by the way provides some luminosity to Boronia, becomes weaker and sits more flat atop the skin. Around similar time is when the perfume turns more fluffy (but not overly) and leathery through a suede note. I really like suede in perfume, it adds a delicate softness and a lot of character to the blend at the same time. It’s been combined by a perfumer with a bunch of resinous notes, so overall the perfume feels quite oriental thanks to the balsamic qualities it shows. Yet it still remains in a lightweight class when it comes to heaviness.

The drydown intrigues me with its smokiness. The smoky vibe is fresh and vegetal, coming from the black tea chord. It’s very realistic, you can actually smell the tea part and smoked part of it. And it faintly flavored with dried apricot for that interesting twist. Grandiflora Boronia also features caramel note but I have to admit I didn’t get its aroma right away. There was some sweetness in the perfume from the very beginning but I thought it could be how boronia smells like (I don’t know the smell of actual flower). Additional notes featured in the fragrance are dried woods and floral notes.

Boronia from Grandiflora wasn’t an instant love for me. Queen of the Night outshined it as I really fell for that one from the first try. However now that I try Boronia for another time it’s starting to grow on me. It certainly is unusual and I can’t think of other fragrance with many similarities to Boronia. Creativity and talent of perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour worked wonders again, it seems. I still maintain my opinion that Boronia veers slightly more masculine but I can imagine it being worn by women as well. This new composition is an eau de parfum & its bottle size is 50 ml.

Tagged , , , ,