Tag Archives: Heliotrope

Monday Quick Sniffs, part 57

It took me a month to share with you my holiday trip in Austria, Northern Italy and Switzerland. I hope that you enjoyed looking at the photos and hearing about places I visited. Now comes the time to talk about perfume again, though I had a little bit of hesitation to make my break slightly longer.


New from Kilian, except of having a name that makes me roll my eyes, is one of the more interesting releases over the last few years, at least for my taste. Rolling in Love opens with a mild, vegetal amber impression created with ambrette. It’s slightly cold and austere at the beginning but then it warms up thanks to the skin and other elements of the composition. Iris joins the scent after less than 5 minutes adding a buttery texture. Orris is a bit chalky, powdery and slightly on a dry side. I also find it to be more woody, slightly incensy even. Almond accord adds a sweet & milky facet that turns nutty and caramelized later. There’s a disturbing burning quality in it and for a moment Rolling in Love smells like bread pudding to my nose. Freesia and tuberose create a flirty floral bouquet of a creamy nature that doesn’t feel diffusive but more like clinging to the skin. Tonka bean absolute gives this new Kilian an oriental vibe due to releasing a spicy and aromatic and creamy cloud that is so specific for this material. In the end the entire scent immerses in sweet vanilla that has a rum booziness in the back. Rolling in Love would have been a gourmand if it wasn’t for the floral part. It’s not bad at all, super pricy though. I like the red-inside bottle but I can live without it.


Soon after the holiday months were over, Jean-Charles Brosseau introduced Heliotrope to his Fleurs d’Ombre range. The perfume was meant to keep our summer memories alive for a little bit longer, and it does it perfectly. The beginning brings forth a floral aroma that without a doubt is a violet. It’s quite strong for a couple of minutes, combining fresh, ozonic, powdery and verdant facets. When it becomes more sheer it’s time for citrusy tones to come and play. In case of Heliotrope it’s a bitter-sweet game, as firstly we have a sweet & juicy mandarine but secondly there’s a tart & tangy grapefruit to counterpart the first. Mimosa makes the perfume powdery in a dominating part. It’s scent, sweet like a flower pollen from tiny yellow pom-poms creates a bridge to the heart of the composition. Heart is where iris continues the powdery medley but in less sweet way. But in overall feeling this perfume is like a meadow – with every step you can meet something different. There’s also a rose, pink & innocent, a glamorous gardenia and of course heliotrope, powdery yet balsamic and flowery. The drydown of Jean-Charles Brosseau Heliotrope is like a warm hug. Ambery tones wrap around your neck like a scarf while creamy sandalwood and a white musks cocktail create an imaginary blanket that covers your arms. There’s a lot going on in this perfume and few times I thought there was too much at once, a bit of chaos in it but it’s an enjoyable scent in my overall verdict.


Olivier Durbano and his fragrances named and inspired after semi-precious stones have quite a popularity, especially in Europe, and I know that Polish customers love these creations a lot. Lapis Lazuli, a 12th perfume opens with an aromatic pungence of green, slightly acrid and fatty cypress note. After a few minutes it becomes a bit more astringent and medicinal when tea tree accord kicks in. Artemisia keeps everything more grounded and earthy. Addition of clove simultaneously adds to the medicinal feel and also brings its own spiciness as a side pillar. Molecule of rose oxide adds a bit of a distant floral feel right there. Thyme gives Lapis Lazuli a herbal vibe that quickly softenes when immersed in a note described as plant milk. It smells green, sappy. Like a combination of fig milk and other things alike. Spelt and iris give this perfume an unexpected grainy texture that goes powdery after some time. Olivier Durbano fragrance wouldn’t suit his range if it wasn’t heavy on incense and other resins. That’s why you can find a thick elemi note in the base which is surrounded by parched vetiver and cedar wood with a cracked surface. It feels rigid, cold, yet there’s something melancholic there. Something that draws you deep into it. Ambergris and tolu add to the balsamic density of the composition. Musk is a hint of dirty but it gets engulfed in the incense wave.

I’ll be abroad on a business trip for half of this week and on Friday it’s All Saints’ Day & I’ll be visiting family graves. I don’t think I will be able to write another article this week. Next week for sure!

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Monday Quick Sniffs, part 4

First week of new academic year at university was all about rules and organizing things, still it was quite exhausting. I finally know how my schedule looks like which was a mystery until October 1st. Guess what! For half semester (until mid Dec I guess) I’m having free Mondays, yaay! Here I am, bringing you some newest fragrance releases. All of them are coincidentally autumn friendly.

First time I’ve heard about this fragrance thanks to The Scented Hound, hat tip, my friend. Inspired by the words whispered to clientele of clandestine bars during the Prohibition era, Frapin introduces their newest creation, Speakeasy. I was keen on testing this fragrance as it was exclusively crafted by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato of my favourite niche house, Parfum d’Empire. Speakeasy opens with three notes: lime, sweet orange and rum that blend together bringing the association with mojito. The herbacious element of mint and geranium appears right after the opening phase making Speakeasy a bit louder. Rum and geranium were especially easy to notice. As the scent effuses it spices up and turns balmy with labdanum, styrax, tonka & tobacco. Further wrist smells exhibited the longest lingering notes of mild leather, musk and immortelle similar to Annick Goutal Sables, but toned down in Speakeasy. Smells great on dark autumn days. Available as 100ml EdP.

Jewellery designer Olivier Durbano introduced Heliotrope in Florence at Pitti 10 Fragranze. It’s an 8th fragrance in the collection inspired by gemstones. With this scent Olivier Durbano broke his plans of creating only 7 scents in gems family. Heliotrope is warm and balmy from the start. There’s a lot of elemi and olibanum with hints of ginger, mandarin and chilli pepper. After some time it smells of saffron, heliotrope and light touch of magnolia. Then Heliotrope goes woody. What we have here is cedar, sandalwood, musks and ambergris. Light incense feeling is created with use of myrrh and benzoin. It smells rather comforting than flamboyant. It has a medium sillage and impressive lasting power. O.Durbano Heliotrope is a good choice for people like me, who want to wear something heavier now and are afraid to be crushed by the monster sillage. Red coloured EdP is closed in 100ml square bottle. Presents and smells nice.

This year a Private Collection of Clive Christian grew bigger thanks to two new “V” scents, one for her and one for him. In this perfume “V” stands for Victoria, the oldest daughter in the Christian family. An inspiration for this fragrance was a true love between Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. “V” for Men is balanced in an excellent way. Elemi and agarwood mix with olibanum and cedar in an interesting way – woody aspects are lounder than resinous. One deep whiff allows to smell pepper (black, pink) and citruses (mainy rinds to me). “V” for Men smells spicy with a touch of freshness to it. Some earthy and rooty vetiver was also used to create this Clive Christian scent but it’s practically impossible to notice. I don’t like vetiver much and had no problem with wearing “V” for Men which indicates there’s not much vetiver used here, great! Note list also says there’s iris in “V” for Men. I couldn’t smell any of typical iris aromas but “V” turned powdery after some time so I guess that’s it for iris. Bottle of “V” for Men is made of amber coloured glass. Available in 50ml, perfume concentration.

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