As I was debating in my head about what perfume I should put up next on the blog. In my online musings I stumbled upon a weather forecast predicting a small heatwave in my area. Well, 29ºC is not a real ‘hot’ yet, but it is considering the fact that average temperature for this time of the year is 19ºC where I live. Those 10 degrees make a difference. Therefore I made a quick conclusion that it should be a perfume ideal for this type of weather. Something light, styled like a cologne but more interesting – with a twist. That lead me to grab my sample of new release from Hermes.
At the beginning Eau de Citron Noir is harsh and alcoholic, it takes a moment before fragrant molecules are released. Once they start to evaporate from your freshly sprayed skin the first thing you’ll notice is a citrus accord that packs a punch straight in your face. It’s a lively concoction with lemon being most prominent out there, but lime and mandaryn are present in considerable amount as well. The citrus part feels oily on my skin, as if you cut a fruit with just one move of a sharp knife & the rind would start oozing sticky juice. The citrus accord is quite warm and it doesn’t sparkle.
After 15 minutes the scent is infused with a little bit of herbal aromas that bring the idea of rosemary or tarragon. It feels slightly sweet now, fresh as well (although I detect a talcum-like element in the back). Not many more minutes pass until tannins appear in Eau de Citron Noir and flavor this fragrance with black tea accord. It smells alright but quite flat and the smoky aspect is missing. In fact there’s nothing noir about this new Hermes cologne, which is a bit ironic knowing that black lime (loomi, a dried lime used as a spice in Middle eastern cuisine) was Nagel’s inspiration.
It should smell earthy, smoky, sour and sweet but there’s not even a hint of that. Final element of Eau de Citron Noir is Paraguayan wood (think agar wood) and it just doesn’t smell nice. It’s somewhat bland and ‘stale’ as Kevin accurately pointed in his review. All in all their latest cologne is far from being spectacular. It’s mediocre at best. I’d better stick to my Eau de Neroli Dore or Agar Ebene when I decide to reach for a lovable Hermes. Eau de Citron Noir is lauched in eau de toilette concentration in 50, 100 & 200 ml size. A deep blue glass bottle is the nicest thing about this scent.